1946 CJ2A #30381 |
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Gil
Member Joined: 29 July 2016 Location: N.B.Canada. Status: Offline Points: 975 |
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Nice jeep. Make sure you install a oil filter canister.Because you have nothing to clean your oil ,our change the oil often.
Giles |
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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It has been a while since any progress has been made of the 2A.
Started the tear down for swapping the tub - pulled the gauges and half the rats nest of wiring out of the dash I can't believe it ran with all the insulation missing, splices with no insulation and cloth covered wires that disintegrated when you touched them... Seats are out, roll cage is off, front fenders and grill are off. The frame is in great shape with little to no rust because of the leaky seals spraying oil and grease everywhere - so there is 70 years of "preservative" keeping everything looking good! The one issue I have is the steering wheel. It has been sitting with pb blaster in the splines for almost two weeks now - I put the two sided puller on it today, used blocks of 2x4 that I trimmed down and notched to fit around the steering column.I put a piece of thin trex decking on top of the bolt to protect the threads on the column - slowly screwed the shaft down tight and slowly increased the pressure over a few hours and then gave it a good whack with a hammer on the metal shaft and nothing happened. Increased the pressure and repeated - still nothing. I did not want to bend the column top so I stopped. Any thoughts on what to do?? |
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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leecarr
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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What are the two orange lights under the hood for ?
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Hi - I Have no idea what they were for - there was a rats nest of wiring - it has all since been removed.
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Update
on the steering wheel.
There was no movement on it - used more pb blaster, swapped the wood block for a metal plate - hit it with impact gun, metal hammer on the puller shaft (started deforming the head of the puller shaft) and then a wrench which bent the metal plate. The metal collar dug into the base of the wheel and chewed it up - so I made the decision to cut it with the sawzall - the plastic came right off and the metal is still stuck to deal with at a later time. Since all this took place - this was the final out come of the day: |
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Took
a few hours and power washed the frame with hot water and took off 70
years of dirt/grease and oil mixture. Amazing how much was on there. The
places where the grease was caked on in a pile ( from being tossed as
the drive shaft spun) has the original paint underneath - looks in
decent shape. The rest got a wire brushing the get surface rust off and
another washing. Going to do some degreasing and then prime and paint
the rails.
I did manage to uncover the data plate on the transfer case - took some doing - the gunk was hardened onto it and didn't want to scratch it up. |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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Getting that grease off is such a chore! After power.washing I think I went through 7 cases of cleaner and wore out a putty knife and a few wire toothbrushes. Luckily, Advance Auto had it on sale so I scooped it all up. Gotta do it though if you want the paint to stick. The frame looks to be in very nice shape.
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Another update on the project:
The transfer case, transmission, bell housing, starter, clutch , fly wheel, steering column and steering box are off the frame. All are taken apart at this point and cleaned, parts that have worn have been identified for replacements. My two boys (7 & 11) are helping on this and they picked out the paint for the transmission, transfer case and bell housing - can you tell? The transmission is spread out in order of components - everything looks good except for first gear (the typical rounding) and second gear and syncros will be replaced. I am getting the rebuild kit from Ron Fitzpatrick. Transfer case looks good too - I am getting new seals and gaskets for that too. The steering assembly has been the challenge. I finally had to cut the spokes on the wheel to get the tub off and then after 3 weeks under tension with the puller and pb blaster squirted every day - I finally cut the hub with a dremel and hit it with a cold chisel to split it - came right off! I have a replacement wheel waiting to get cleaned up. Today, I just took apart the steering column and separated everything. This is what greeted me when I opened it up: It was grease... It appeared to be a light weight grease - it was coating everything and was still "fluid". Took for every to clean it out. Worm gear and sector shaft look great. I did have to cut the pitman arm just like the steering hub - it would not budge - had to be replaced anyway since the ball was no longer round. I think I found one component to the death wobble I had. When I opened the box - the lower bearing race was held into place by pressure. There was no spring clip holding the race in place. There were 11 balls there though. The upper race was cleaned out easily enough. The big question - I can not remove the upper race because of the copper (?) ring above the race. How do you remove that? It is also the horn electrical contact. The last interesting item about the steering column is that the inner tube and outer tube were PACKED with grease. I though they were supposed to be clean?? I cleaned everything out and you can now see through the outer tube. The PO was one who made sure everything was lubricated - that is why everything is so well preserved. I'm taking the tub and the "new" replacement tub to the welder for him to work his magic and combine the two of them to make one complete one. The new tub is from a Colorado forest service Jeep (tub number 4071) and it is better shape than the tub from the jeep. That is it for now.
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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The snap rings on the upper and lower bearings are not needed. They were there to hold everything together during assembly at the factory. Once the box is assembled, the snap rings do nothing. They can be a help, but assembly can be accomplished without them.
You pretty much have to destroy the brass contact ring to get it off, and it's hard to install a new one without destroying it. If your upper race is in good shape, just leave it there and re-use it. Most of the replacement races are too large in the inside diameter where the balls run and it's impossible to adjust the end-play correctly. Grease is the wrong lubricant for these but it's what you will most often find. When the pitman shaft bushings and seal wear and the correct oil leaks out, Bubba fills the box with grease because it will not leak out. It also will not lubricate the bushings, so things just get worse. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Bruce -
A few people have said to use the original race for the same reasons you do - this one does not look worn! It will be interesting to see how this operates with oil instead of grease!
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Quick update - It has been a while since I have posted about the rebuild. I will post more this winter as I sort through all the photos and such.
I rebuilt the tranny and transfer case a got them bolted on. I did the minimal amount of wiring to test fire the engine and drive around and try the transmission. She fired on the first turn of the key - I was floored! It has been a year since she was running. Here is the video of the engine running. Here is a video of the drive around the yard on the milk crate seat: I have a few adjustments to make to the clutch - but I am very happy with it. BTW - the transmission is not pink - the video renders it that color for some reason. It is IH red. Matt
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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The 2A is finished after 1.5 years in pieces! I picked this up in 2015. I am the third owner, it started life as a farm jeep in western New York, then it was at a hunting cabin in the Adirondacks to pull out the deer during deer season. It is still a column shifter. Original color was pasture green which I left under the headlight rings. The tub was so rotted out (had two layers of sheet metal riveted over what was left of the original metal) - I replaced it with another VEC tub (which came from Colorado - it was a forest service jeep) that was close to the original serial number. There was no bondo work done to smooth out the dings and dents in the original metal, I liked that it was original and they are part of its history. I did plug weld close to 75 "bonus" holes which were put in over the years. I left all the extra dash board holes because the switches came with the tub still worked after a good cleaning (have to love 1950's quality american made products!) - I put the switches back in and will figure out what to wire them to as the time comes. The mission creep was incredible with this project - what started as rebuilding the transmission because of a bad 2nd gear turned into a rebuild of the transmission, transfer case, clutch, flywheel resurfacing, steering, front disk brakes, rear main seals, carb rebuild, replacement of exhaust/intake manifold, new radiator, new fuel and brake lines, total rewiring with led lights, new glass in windshield and lots of other items. I will be putting disks on the rear axle this winter. I learned a lot doing this project and it was the first time I had taken apart a jeep. Thanks! Matt |
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Matt Gillis
Member Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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What I started with: |
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nofender
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 10 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 2018 |
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really good looking result! Congrats!
And boy do i know all about mission creep!
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46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4145 |
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It really turned out nice. Congratulations!
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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WOW that turned out sweet
Body color and wheel color look great! Normally I’m not a fan of spoked wheels, those look so good!
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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