Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Your Jeep Project
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - 48CJ2a starting point
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

48CJ2a starting point

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
wadoyado View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 28 Sep. 2016
Location: Mi.
Status: Offline
Points: 194
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 48CJ2a starting point
    Posted: 20 Oct. 2016 at 8:39am
Greetings all. Thought I'd back track a little and show what I'm starting with. This is the condition of the 48 serial no.208783 that's been in the family since 1950. The body has had several face lifts 1956, 1966, 1989 and present. The floor is shot and the exhaust manifold was leaking (turns out broken stud and cracked manifold) After unsuccessfully trying to remove the stud and with the floor issue I decided to remove the motor and body. The plan being fix the mechanicals repair the floor new tires try and put it on the road again. Which leads me to a few basic questions The title states CJ2a but the frame looks 3a going by body mounts. The tranny states T-90A-1. Are these different from T-90? The brake and clutch pedals appear slightly shorter than some spares of a 1947 I have. Also I thought CJ3as where F head, were L heads still an option?
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 2388
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2016 at 9:32am
CJ-3A's were L heads the overhead valve F head came in the CJ3B

Your tub has a number of modifications including the Hat channel under the front floor is not stock, The Top bow pockets on the left side of the body have been removed.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
wadoyado View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 28 Sep. 2016
Location: Mi.
Status: Offline
Points: 194
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2017 at 10:26am
I should have known from past experience this "fix the floor, and exhaust leak" project was going to turn into a complete jeep rebuild, but what the heck like I said before I was born into it! Probably conceived in it? My father figured I didn't need toys "you got the real thing" attitude. O K back to the ranch. Went thru the T90 now looking at the transfer case I know some of you out there might think I'm crazy but I see no reason to disassemble, the gears look great no excessive play never had shifting or noise problems looks like original wire job. What do the experts think? I would like to remove the shift levers though. What's the best way to remove the pin? Drive out? Didn't seem to want to move. Thought I'd check with the experts on that to. Many thanks Joe Wadoyado.
Back to Top
smfulle View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 16 Sep. 2010
Location: Ogden, Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 2744
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2017 at 10:59am
Joe,
Not an expert here, but I've been in one and around a few more. 
If it works fine I wouldn't mess with it.

Those pins can get really rusty and stuck. 
On original CJ2A transfer cases they are held in by a set screw. If that set screw is out, all that is holding it in is age and stubbornness. Use your favorite secret penetrating sauce and give it a wack. 

On D18 of a more modern vintage, that pin is sometimes threaded. I doubt if you have that, but just mentioning it, just in case.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
Back to Top
wadoyado View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 28 Sep. 2016
Location: Mi.
Status: Offline
Points: 194
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2017 at 11:49am
Thanks for the reply Stan, just what I was hoping to hear. I gotta tell ya how impressed I am with all your posts and videos the whole story. The pics of the women holding the deer rifle and the one with the curlers in her hair could be my aunt. The stories of growing up sound very familiar! I wondered how you went from 8mm home movies to posting on internet? Thanks again Joe Wadoyado.
Back to Top
wadoyado View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 28 Sep. 2016
Location: Mi.
Status: Offline
Points: 194
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2017 at 3:20pm
Moving right along on my 48 project, I started on the steering box. The pic on the right is off the 48 the other I'll call spare on left which I'd like to use. Both worm gears have nos. T123041 on them But the spare shaft is about 1" longer With a different steering wheel shown in another pic (one with longer lip) Both steering wheels say S Heller on them. Will the spare (longer shaft work alright? Also one of the pics shows the rear cap, broke the slide hammer end trying to remove the oil seal. Any tricks to getting the oil seal out? and while I'm at it I'll go for 3 Anybody recognize the washer next to rear cap? Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Joe Wadoyado
Back to Top
athawk11 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 17 Jan. 2012
Location: Arvada,Colorado
Status: Offline
Points: 2280
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2017 at 6:47pm
Hi Joe,
The longer worm gear/shaft likely belongs in a 3A. They are longer than a 2A shaft.

You had a early question about the frame. Very late 2A frames are a "Tweener". There are some 2A traits and some 3A traits. Easiest way to tell if you have a late 2A frame or a 3A frame is to take a look at the motor mounts on the frame. If offset from each other, it's a 3A frame. If they are in line with each other, it's a late 2A frame.
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
Back to Top
wadoyado View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 28 Sep. 2016
Location: Mi.
Status: Offline
Points: 194
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2017 at 7:07pm
Update on my 48 cj2a. The first pic should show the trans buttoned up ready to go, shifted thru all gears little tighter but should be fine, would install on transfer case but going to wait till it's outside for easier handling. Next pic transfer case didn't totally disassemble just new seals gaskets, had hand brake shoes relined cleaned parts tried to use OEM parts including hardware. E brake works good. Next pics shows parts might be of interest. I ordered all new U joints from QTM made in US ones, seemed to work good (no issues),was able to find arrows after several cleanings splines looked good also. Two used U joints (probably still usable) say Spicer original equipment? The throw out bearing proudly stamped made in USA is at least 40yrs old if not original I plan on using it. I think this build is going to be about using OEM, keeping new parts to a minimum. The transfer case shift pin is one of the few new parts I've used and the standard grease fitting doesn't fit had to half ass retap it. From what I've read on this form i'm pretty leary of anything "brand new" I not sure if I want to run the new trans mount probably metric studs! Wa ma gonna do? Joe wadoyado
Back to Top
Gil View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 July 2016
Location: N.B.Canada.
Status: Offline
Points: 227
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2017 at 8:40pm
Keep up the good work. one piece at a time.
Back to Top
wadoyado View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 28 Sep. 2016
Location: Mi.
Status: Offline
Points: 194
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2017 at 10:42am
Thanks Gil coming from you I consider that a real compliment! Did you happen to notice the clutch control tube in one of the pics? I decided to go with the worn and pitted original after reading about the bullsh-- problems you had. Thanks for the warning. Joe Wadoyado                     
Back to Top
wadoyado View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 28 Sep. 2016
Location: Mi.
Status: Offline
Points: 194
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2017 at 7:28pm
   Well at least I was able to get the pic's going had to cut it short the wife "needs" me. I'll have to come back with the story. Sorry Joe Wadoyado
Back to Top
wadoyado View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 28 Sep. 2016
Location: Mi.
Status: Offline
Points: 194
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar. 2017 at 5:09am
These pic's are pretty much self explanatory. Found rust thru spot on cross-member, measured 12ga,(.109),located same thickness patch piece,1/16 cutoff wheel to cut rectangle area out. Used cut-out piece as pattern. Then tacked in repair patch(butt joint) leaving small gap if possible. Then TIG welded using "mild" steel rod(low carbon content). I skipped the pic showing the backside of the weld 100% penetration. This is the same way I recommended to mnbailey to repair the large dent in the front frame cross tube, only round and you'ld have to recurve the patch, I got the impression from a couple of posts that I was talking crazy. I ask what is wrong with my method? I'm aware mnbailey said he had little welding experience which is why I suggested just tack in the patches then bring to a professional. Thanks, Joe (PlEASE DON'T CUT THAT FRAME) Wadoyado.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.08
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.