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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2016 at 10:42pm
Oh if I was going to do more then the Jeep and a fancy off road camping trailer I have been designing and maybe a small trailer or two I might have looked at a bigger Welder. But I knew what I needed and since Home Depot carried this one and I could put it on my Commercial Card with them and the wife was OK with that it seamed like the smart move. In fact I have made built created an amazing amount of stuff in the last 45 + years since I moved past plastic model cars and this is the first time I had to have my own welding machine. Prior to this I always had a buddy willing to burn some metal for me. And that was a very rare occasion. But then the wife and his wife had what they call an EPIC falling out and I don't get to play with him any more LOL.

I think I need to stop welding sooner on most welds I tend to end up with a lot of material to then grind off.

OH well by the time the Willys is done I should have a handle on it and the trailer will end up less after weld work.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2016 at 11:33pm
I learned to weld because of "the" jeep and my 57 chevy project back in the 70's seemed like I was always held up by welding. Turned into a career held certs. in structural then certified mil spec. aircraft & missle welding hardest welding test to pass bar none, Still work part time tool & die welding and bench repair in my own small shop. I reread a lot of your post judging by the quality of your work I think a little TIG welding experience and you'ld be a miracle worker. I know it's a lot slower but the advantages include no sparks, weld 1" plate to sheet metal weld all metals.ect. Might not be too practical at this time but if you get the chance try it. Wadoyado
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2017 at 1:32am
Well I welded my left one in today. I managed to get the oil canning out of the side panel between the Angle joint and the Fuel fill pocket. That said I still have a slight splaying out of the side wall to the rear of the Joint. I see no way to correct it and keep the other lines straight so I am going to ignore it. I have a little bit more grinding to do on the Left side and then a Big shop clean up and everything moves to the left so I have more room to work on the Right side. Hopefully with less issues or maybe what I have learned will help me avoid them.

Not all of it is real pretty but then thats why they invented High Build Primer and Filler still in the range of nothing more then 1/16th so I can live with it.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2017 at 9:38pm
So a mid day up date. Left side is almost done Last piece to attach is the Gas tank cleat which is soaking in Ospho so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to weld it on.

(still have the welds between the Lower Cowl and Toe Board to grind)

Today I cut the top edge of the door opening just a little ahead of the Fuel fill because the lip was angled up on the inside not square to the side wall like it should be. I made a slit and then with the side wall clamped to a piece of 1/4" flat plate steel I hammered the lip down into square and then came in and welded up the slit worked out pretty well. and now I won't end up with a gap on either side of it when I build my doors for the hard top.

I also go to thinking how I can make sure my Windshield frame is square. Back in 1976 while still in high school I tipped Chug over on its drivers side when a Kid I was following slammed on his brakes (67 cougar that had just been made ready for paint) and when I went to stop the pedal went to the floor. So I did what dad drilled into me I took the ditch (dads theory was the Jeep would handle the ditch better then smashing into another vehicle) ONLY problem was the ditch in this case was a pretty steep bank and right at the moment forward motion stopped the Jeep fell over on the drivers side. lost the side mirror and messed up the Top Bow pockets.

And there appeared in the windshield glass a fog line that makes it look like the upper right corner moved about 1/4-3/8" (glass came out from under the rubber) Now I have never checked to see if the frame itself moved or if it moved and sprung back leaving the glass moved in the rubber. But its something I knew I would have to address before building the Aluminum Hard top I plan.

Since both the top and bottom of the frame are curves I can't just set a framing square against it and see. SO today I came up with an Idea.

using my big layout table I can screw two pieces of 2 x 2 down perfectly parallel and the exact distance one side of the frame to the other side is. Then I can try to slide or place the Windsheild frame into this "pocket" if it fits the frame is square if not I can see where it need to move and using clamps made from All thread and some custom cut blocks I can pull it back square.

Also once its sitting in the "pocket" properly I can then measure and square off the table to check to position of the curved arms so that I know the pivot holes are directly opposite of each other as they should be.

When I get around to doing this I will take a bunch of photos as I am sure other guys will have the same kind of problem with a 3A windshield frame. A 2A frame being square would be much simpler to correct (well if it wasn't for all the PITA things about a 2A windshield frame that can go wrong or be messed up by a previous owner etc.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2017 at 8:39pm
OK WOW I started to hang the Right Rear Side Panel on the Tub and it was very obvious something wasn't right. I started measuring things and trying to find out why the new part is 3/8" from mating with the Weld flange on the top of the Right Wheel house.

On the original Side Panel I have here from the Tub Mike S gave me. The distance from the outside of the panel above the Wheel opening to the joint with the Tail Light Panel is approx 3 5/8" on this new panel is a full 4"

I called Classic Enterprises and talked with one of the guys there and will be sending them photos and measurements. They are quite concerned over this.

I'm going to go ahead and section the part like I did on the left side (only had to remove an 1/8th to get a decent fit). Classic is being very good about trying to find out why this part is not the correct dimension. I'll be sending them photos and talking to them in a couple days.

If I was building a numbers matching restoration this would be a bigger thing but for me its just another days work to get it to fit.

I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2017 at 10:26pm
Well new problem the tire mount brace I put on the Right side (I have them on both sides since I had two after taking the Tub Mike S gave me apart) was put in a little to far forward. So the bottom outside corner actually interfered with the lip on the wheel opening. So I figured out how to section the bottom side of it and shorten it up. Removing and repositioning  was pretty much out of the question both because of the amount of work it would take to unweld it from the Wheel House side and top and if I did move it reward I doubt I would have been able at a later date to fit the 1.5 gallon air tank that will fit behind it. SO shorten it up I did. Looks like it will work out just fine after some lunch I'll go tack it in place and then MORE GRINDING.

I already have the section that needs to be removed from the Rear Side Panel to get it to fit laid out and will most likely cut it out this afternoon as well. Going to have to get more welding gas soon so I don't want to start to much as I hate stopping in the middle of something to go get gas (and yes I should have bought a larger bottle OH WELL live and learn).
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2017 at 5:06am
So been away a while (had to work this week (damn nice weather LOL) I managed to get the sectioned strip welded back together. And fix a couple other issues with the Right Rear Side Panel. The rest of the fixes will wait until I have it welded in place and its easier to remove and replace a section of the top edge near the top rear of the door opening and to either replace the whole top edge through the rear corner curve or at least a section of it right where it meets the Tail light panel.

I wrote up a long list of all the stuff I needed to do before starting to weld the Side Panel and the Lower Cowl Panel in place while at work the other day. I managed to get out in the shop earlier today so I busted out almost the whole list today.

So tomorrow I have a bunch of holes to drill for plug welds and then I can start the final fitting of the panels and get them all perfectly lined up and clamped in place. I don't think I will be working Monday so I should be able to get right on to welding the panels in place.

I have run into a one of a kid type problem I will need to figure out. Because of the 3/4' x 1 1/2" frame work under the Tool Box top side and then along the outer edge of the Tool Box the Body Angle Gusset/Doubler really doesn't fit very well sandwiched between the frame work and the two Panels. I haven't decided just how I am going to fix this yet.

Also a BIG problem I have known was coming for a long time. One of the "Ribs" in the frame work for the rear floor turns out to be in the wrong place with regards to the Frame Cross Member that's ahead of the Rear Axle. (I am using a CJ5 Frame) so I have 3 ways to "fix" this. 1. I can cut and section a large piece out of the Rib this will most likely still require a 1/4" body lift. 2. I can cut and section the top of the Cross Member to move it down 3/4" no body lift required to work but it will mess up my painted frame and be a LOT of work. It how ever is the most elegant of ways to fix this problem and since the mess would be restricted to the one Cross Member it wouldn't be to bad to clean up and repaint. I still have some of the same primer and paint I used. 3. I use a 3/4" body lift and everything fits pretty much the way I built it. This would most likely lead to a dozen other problems from Clutch and Brake Pedal to who knows what. So not looking real favorable on it as a solution.

I have planned all a long using 1/4" and 7/16" Polyurethane body mount pads. I just need to see how it all lays out once the Tub is sitting on the frame. As I am using an IDIDIT Classic Steering Column I won't have the Steering Column as a PITA to putting the Tub on and removing it like a Stock build would.

I'm most likely not going to do anything until I have the Tub completely welded together and can trail fit it and see how its going to actually come out rather then just measuring it and worrying.

You plan and plan and still something can get by you.




Edited by Mark W. - 29 Jan. 2017 at 5:16am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb. 2017 at 12:50am
SO as of tonight near as I can figure it save the Gas tank Cleat on the Left inner wall of the Tub all structural welding to assemble my new fancy Tub is complete.

I am sure as I go over everything there will be some touch up and a little bit more grinding to do but for all intents and purposes I am done welding the Tub together.

Right and Left sides are slightly different (due to variations in Classic Enterprises Sheet metal) Bth sides look to be flat enough for skim coating and block sanding flat. My customization has lead to a couple of places I will need to do some Epoxy Sealing on the underside of the Tube to male sure no moisture can find a hiding place (before the actual seam sealer)

All and all I am satisfied with the results. I sure would have liked the Side Panels and the Lower Cowl Sections to have been flatter after welding and I really could have done without a lot of the frustration with the Left side.

Now on to the next big step getting it ready for Sealer and some body filler to smooth it all out. Then a couple coats of High Build Primer and a LOT of block sanding. Then another coat of Epoxy Sealer. I will most likely set it to the side for a while after that and get the Tailgate, Front Fenders, Hood and Grill caught up so they can be Painted all at the same time.

Looks like I won't have as much time this winter to work on it either. I have already worked two full weeks and it sounds like unless weather goes bad work will be starting very early this year (like 2 weeks ago!).

That's OK the HUGE job is done the TUB is whole and I can work on things some in the evenings and Weekends if that's all I get.

I'll get some photos best I can of the completed Metal work tomorrow.



 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb. 2017 at 10:33am
I am right with you.  Sucks when you have to go back to work!  I am a farmer and an early finish to harvest last year afforded me the time to work on the jeep.  Now the time is running out. Unhappy Spring is almost here.  I would love to be done my tub, but not so sure that's gonna happen. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2017 at 1:14am
Well I ordered my Body filler and a pile of fancy sand paper. I have all the joints and seams (except for the ones that touch the exterior metal I'll seal those up after the exterior putty work as I may have to move the metal a little here and there and once the seams are epoxied I don't think they will move so easy)

I'm buying some pretty fancy Body filler (same stuff I see them using on a couple of the better hot rod shows on TV) and a BUNCH of PSA sandpaper.

I have been all over the exterior with a straight edge and I'm not seeing any high spots and the lows are as far as I can tell less then 1/16th. So within my picky spec's.

Hopefully I'll have the basic Body work on the tub done by months end. I need to get the fenders stripped and do some repair on them. I was at one time going to swap out the inner fenders on at least the left fender with a nice inner fender I have from a trade 10 years ago. But now that I have a welder it might be simpler and not mess up a decent spare fender by just welding a patch into the hole dad cut out to access the Master cylinder at one time.

The Hood, Tail gate and Grill all need to be stripped as well. Little bit of repair work on the Tail gate mostly filling holes (I won't be hanging the spare or the jeep can on the tailgate going with a tire rack swing away set up) The grill is pretty good but does have a little bit of metal to push around to get flat again.

I have been real hesitant to strip the hood as it has dads art work on it so before I take it down to bare metal I am going to do some detail photos and then with some nice velum tracing paper I have make a pattern to replicate it.

Pretty soon as I said full time work and spring house remodeling stuff will be starting up so Willys time will be slowing down I am afraid.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2017 at 7:52am
Lets see some pictures Mark!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2017 at 8:11am
OK tomorrow I need to get some shots of all the epoxy sealing up everything on the bottom of the tub so I'll get a bunch of the fancy tub and post them.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2017 at 2:01am
OK waiting for Photobucket to upload my photos I got like 20 of them for you all to ponder.

Bottom all sealed up with PC-7 Epoxy I will sand it smooth right before I epoxy Prime it once all the body putty work is done. It will get two coats of White Kirker Epoxy Primer Sealer



Close up of the Tunnel area showing how the joints are sealed. I am using the Epoxy Putty anywhere there is a weld to completely seal the weld and the Metal around it.



this shot shows how I solved the problem with my floor frame work creating places for mud and other materials to set on the frame work. The redish color are pieces of Micarta (a Phenolic Resin and cloth material) that has been cut and hollowed out to fit the pockets in the front of the Wheel Houses and then PC-7 Epoxy puttied in place so now there is just a smooth flat are the mud etc will just fall off.



Rear view of the sealed underside you can also see some of the PC-7 being used to seal up around the Valance panel



Right side spare tire support. I am not using these (I have them on both sides) to support
my spare tire. Instead the spare tire, fuel can and pioneer tools will be on a swing away tire rack mounted on either side of the tailgate (I have added 3" angle supports that tie into both the full coverage 1/4" thick roll bar bases and the frame work for the floor.) But I wanted them in place to help support the two 1 gallon air tanks that will be in the back of the Wheel houses.



This one is obviously looking over the cowl to the rear floor



A view of the dash and the floor which except for the outer edge is all puttied and ready for the Epoxy Primer. Where you see the old red paint will be getting a brushed on coat of New Ford Gray to brighten up the underside of the dash to make it easier to fiddle with stuff under there. I would already have this done but the One color that didn't come in a small can at ACE was the one I wanted.



left front lower cowl and body angle joint showing the start of the Putty work



Left rear corner before any putty you can just see where I had to section the panel just to the left of the joint with the tailgate panel to get it to fit up right. And another view of those Micarta Blocks capping off the pockets in the frame work.



OK jump ahead here first coat of PC-7 Epoxy putty on the Left rear corner. Right now all straight lines are within a 32'nd of perfectly straight. I will add a little more putty where needed then allow it all to cure up for about 4 days then sand it out with 80 grit. Once that is done it will be gone over with the fancy 3M Lightwt Platinum Plus filler and so on.



Inside left rear of tub



Right lower cowl section you can see how I got lazy and welded this on on from the outside instead of having to spend an hour standing on my head to grind all the welds doing it from the outside took about 10-15 min to grind and I;ll use a tiny bit more putty.



Firewall all patched up and ready to go. I'm leaving the big access hole dad cut to get at the throttle linkage He kept it closed off with duct tape (he was afterall a sheet metal man) I have made a real nice little Micarta plug that will fit in it and will be held in place with 4 screws.



rear view showing both corners and valance area.



Right rear corner second coat of epoxy putty ready for long board and such with 80 grit.



So theres where I am at the fancy over built over engineered tub is in the finishing stages. I got a big order coming in from Autobody Tool Mart with 3M filler and a pile of PSA sand paper.

Not sure what I did or when but my lower right back has been killing me for a week so the wife wants me to take it easy so I think tomorrow after we get back from signing some loan papers (new roof time) I'm going to go in the main shop and make all the special sanding boards I want to do this stuff.


Edited by Mark W. - 17 Feb. 2017 at 3:46pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2017 at 2:29am
Nice work, it takes me back a few years to when I fixed all of the rust in my 3B body.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2017 at 2:40am
Nice ,your going in the right direction

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2017 at 4:09am
Originally posted by Unkamonkey Unkamonkey wrote:

Nice work, it takes me back a few years to when I fixed all of the rust in my 3B body.


I didn't really fix much rust. except for the tunnel I completely replaced everything LOL.

Only original metal is the Tops and fronts of the Wheel houses, the Cowl, Dash, Firewall, amd Toe board. Oh and a couple of the Gussets. Everything else I either scratch built or bought new from Classic Enterprises.

it wasn't my intention from the start to completely rebuild the Tub. At first the plan was to repair and pound on the metal until it was near flat again. But while the tub was leaning up against the wall I got to looking at the bottom of it thinking how I could redo the floor to make it stronger. then the flat floor and the wood strips idea came about and it got completely away from me after that LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2017 at 4:39am
Yeah, I was bored and had a MIG welder so I went out and started cutting and welding. My brother would stop by and watch with a beer in hand and ask why I just didn't buy a new tub. I don't have OCD about many things, My wood work and the Jeeps are among my OCD things. My house and work van look like a bomb went off. (Ok maybe not that bad).
The B probably has a straighter body than when it left the factory But I managed to miss one ding in the hood. As a friend used to say, you need to leave something wrong. I'm not going to mess with it...

Edited by Unkamonkey - 17 Feb. 2017 at 4:46am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2017 at 8:02am
Clap Outstanding! Clap
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