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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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2t2-crash View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2t2-crash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2017 at 9:17am
That looks fantastic!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2017 at 10:05pm
Great looking work, I use a lot of 3M products myself, not the cheapest but well worth it. Check out TP tools they have everything auto body related and fair prices. What type of paint do you plan on using?
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb. 2017 at 2:20am


The plan is to use Kirker

Enduro epoxy primer, It will be White

    2) coats on the bottom of the tub as well as the inside of the tub basically anywhere I won't be doing actual putty an block sanding or need to.

PERFECT PRIME 2K Urethane Primer Surfacer this coat will be Gray
   how ever many coats on the exterior of the body for me to get a smooth block sanded out surface

Then a final sealing coat of WHITE Enduro Epoxy primer on all the exterior surfaces or anywhere I used Perfect Prime. This will seal up all the body work from the outside.

Ultra Glo Single Stage top coat      


I have been looking for ever it seams to find a good example of the Pacific Blue I intend on using and the other night I was going through the 51pages of gallerys on Kirkers web site when this one popped up on the last page.









Showed up on the last page must have been a recent addition wasn't there last time I looked. Couldn't ask for a much better idea of what the color will look like. Its like a BILLBOARD of Pacific Blue.
I would also like to thank the owner of the van for posting it he has relieved a bunch of my worry about the color.

Not knowing what color primer he used my version could be slightly brighter as the White primer tends to bring up a color like Med Blue. Which is just fine with me.


Edited by Mark W. - 21 Feb. 2017 at 12:53am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb. 2017 at 3:04am
Updated the above post with some new details
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb. 2017 at 1:24am
Nice color, looks good with the yellow stripe too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb. 2017 at 3:55am
My pin stripping on the bottom of my Wimbleton White hard top and Black wheels. Is going to be Orange to pay homage to Dads color scheme which was Orange/Red and Black This will match the pipping on my seats.Going to scare up some Orange Seat belts as well.


Edited by Mark W. - 25 Feb. 2017 at 7:20pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 5:58am
So todays a weird day I got up early figuring I would sand out the two rear corners (I'm starting the putty work at the back working forward) I am using the PC-7 Epoxy putty on the rear corners I have never seen a putty you could move the metal with a hammer after putting putty on it and it not effect the adhesion! Anyway only doing the Valance, Tail Light Panels, Rear Corners (and about 8-10" of the side) the Body Angle Joints, and then the Top edge of the tub with the Epoxy. All the real stress points. Its a lot harder to sand out then the Body putty will be but I like it adds strength to the metal its applied to.

Anyway I am sanding away and I hear voices in the other side of the Car port. The guys who are putting a new roof on the house showed up so its a very busy place around here.

I had to laugh when the guy asked me if I had a spray can of black paint he could use to spray one of the vent flanges they have to reuse. I resisted the urge to ask him if he wanted Flat, Semi Gloss, Satin, Or Gloss and if he needed a Rust resistant or if a Plastic all purpose would work. I easily have 100 cans of Spray paint in the shop.

The one big draw back to the Epoxy is it is so slow drying takes at least 2 full days with the heat lamps on it to cure enough to sand. So once the areas I have it on now are sanded out it will be the last place on the exterior I use it. Once I have the exterior all puttied and ready for primer I'm going to go into the interior and seal up all the joints with it.

The back corners have been sanded out once already and are looking pretty nice. I made a  concave sanding block to make sure the curve is nice and smooth with no flat spots. I ended up with a few low spots so I had to go in and smear a little more Epoxy on. I'll be able to get them sanded out and read for real auto body putty Monday or Tuesday. Then I can start working up the sides with the 3M putty.


Day before yesterday and yesterday I took a bit of a break from the autobody work and made my fancy Gear shift Knob and Cane mounted switch assembly.

It will have a Pollack 70amp push pull switch to control my E Locker in the rear axle. And a hand throttle for off road use (I'll drop the dash mount throttle) This one is going to be the style that if let go will snap back to Idle. I'm going to be using a fancy Bicycle brake style cable that is pretty high flex and very low friction. I found the little T handle some where and been hangin on to it for years. The Push Pull switch will use the same Willys looking Knobs I am buying from MSC supply. Looking for someone to engrave them so I can rub White Lacquer stick paint into it and make them look stock.

Anyway here it is I need to weld a short extension on the Cane (but since my cane is bent so it sticks straight up the last 3.5" that will be easy and actually make the shifter a little easier to reach.

 It splits where you see the change in the body so that the Switch can be changed if needed. The actual shift knob will sit up about an inch higher off the body of the unit once I get the extension welded on the shift cane. The Shift Knob is made from Micarta on my little metal lathe. As is the Body of the Unit which is actually three pieces to make the body and a 4th to make the Throttle plunger assembly.  The Bicycle brake cable housing will fit up in the bottom of the tube and be held in place with both a press fit and a set screw. The whole thing will be held on the shift cane by the knob pressing down and the two set screws on the back of it holding it so it doesn't twist.

Front view:



back view:



top view:



I will have approx. 1.5" of travel for the throttle cable which should be plenty based on how I build the linkage for the Weber carb. There will be a collar that fits between the bottom of the shift knob and the top of the body of the unit to hide the extension welded on the cane as well as to space out the compression between the knob and the little collar I will put on the Cane to hold the unit in place.

As a Dump truck driver I always knew I wanted some controls on the stick just like in my dump truck.

So now back to sanding putty


Edited by Mark W. - 28 Nov. 2017 at 12:59am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 7:52pm
That's really awesome!
You might be a dump truck driver when.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 8:43pm
Mark, I like that! I've often thought about doing something similar to control the electric overdrive in my '70 C10. But I'm no dump truck driver.  ----------------------------------------- I'm a grain hauler.Big smile    BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 10:49pm
I'm going to have two switches on the dash right below the speedo that will be armored toggle switches that light up when on. One for each of the E Lockers (thinking of the future on the front locker for when I upgrade to a Dana 30 or 44 in front) so to use a Locker I will flip the Toggle switch to activate the Locker circuit and then when I pull up on the Push Pull on the shift knob unit it will activate which ever toggle is on.

The Hand throttle is obvious its for those times when you need three foots and only have two. I also thought about putting a control for my Roll Control front brake locks on the shifter but it got to cumbersome. so it will stay on the dash near the light switch.

I love over engineering anything I can think of OBVIOUSLY LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2017 at 12:42am
SO I been a busy little beaver I got all the joints that I sealed up with PC-7 Epoxy putty sanded out smooth and then got a couple coats of Permatex Rust converter sprayed on the front floor and tunnel section to wad off any rust until I can get some Epoxy Primer on it. Came out pretty good. I will say one thing the Rotisserie is sure a PITA when doing this. Trying to sand under and around the Saddle beams was not fun and sure wasn't easy. 

I got the support beams in the rear floor to do as well as a little more work on the structure of the Riser before I am done on the bottom. Iwill still have the Toe Boards and Firewall to do but there is only a couple seams the Big one running between them and then the two along the Lower Cowl sections. I'll do those once I have the sides of the Tub puttied and know I won't have to move any of that metal (with DAH BIG HAMMA)

Yes I am crazy..







You see a bit of dust in the photos the Phosphate is still a little damp and I was sanding on the rear floor I'll wait until its all dry before I brush it off.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pilot195 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2017 at 1:32am
looking good! Thumbs Up
Jim
'46 Willys Jeep CJ-2A
USAF retired
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar. 2017 at 9:20pm
OK as of today all the "NEW FLOOR" has been sanded to 100 grit cleaning up all the epoxy seam sealer (PC-7 Epoxy Putty) And it has had a couple coats of Pematex Rust Treatment to help prevent any rust from showing up until I get the chance to actually Epoxy Prime the Tub. Since the Jeep shop is pretty dry (well as dry as the atmospheric humidity is) I'm sure this will stave off any rust for the maybe month until I get primer/sealer on it.

Looks pretty good all Dark Blue to Black I been rotating between  working on the floor and getting the back corners and the tailgate panels ready for the Skim coat of Body putty. Anything more then 1/32" has been raised with PC-7 Epoxy so the actual body filler will end up a real thin coat.

Next step will be to completely seal the undersides of the Two Wheel Houses and get them ready for Sealer/Primer. Going to be some work there I can see. Glad I bought the little 3/8" x 13" Belt grinder to reach into the tighter areas. I still have a few Plug welds to smooth down. I expect at least a day apiece on the Wheel Houses. Then some work on the Toeboard/Firewall joint and that will be ready for Sealer/Primer.

Work will be starting up here at least by the 1st of April so I will be down to evenings and Weekends soon. I was hoping to get a little more done this winter but it is what it is.

The rest of today I think I will make a fancy Aluminum Alternator mount I have designed. Maybe I can get some photos of it posted later.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2017 at 1:32am
Some times I hate computers I had about 3 nice fat paragraphs of up date all written out and while trying to beat Photobucket into submission my computer went black.

So now I start again.

As of today I have only the Left Wheel House seams to sand out smooth and everything from the Toeboard to Firewall seam to the Rear Valance Panel will be all Epoxy sealed and sanded smooth with 3-4 coats of Permatex Rust converter coloring all the metal a nice Blue/Purple color and waiting for Epoxy Primer.

I would have gotten the Left Wheel House seams done today but I ran out of Hook and Loop sand paper that I cut the little 2" D pads out of for my mini Orbital sander. So I'll get that tomorrow.

I also decided to do something funner and I made up my Aluminum Alternator Bracket Its a little beefier then I would have liked from a styling point of view. But I am sure it will take good care of my fancy GM 10si 105amp Marine grade Alternator. I have to order a few of the Button Head bolts that will end up holding it in place since No where around here carries anything much in Button Heads and sure not in Stainless Steel Fine threads over 10-32.

So here are the photos if Photobucket will cooperate.








I pulled the pulley and fan off the Alternator and painted the fan Glossy Black. I will be putting a thin Chrome Disc between the Fan and the Pulley to increase its efficiency and for a little snappier look. The Pulley is being replaced with a 5/8" wide 2.88" D aluminum pulley. I'll be spraying the rest of the Alternator with VHT Ceramic Engine Paint in Clear to protect the finish. I might pull the explosion screens out and paint them Black as well. Maybe once the Jeep is all together and I'm bored some night.


 
OH P.S. I hate Photobucket.


Edited by Mark W. - 13 Mar. 2017 at 1:52am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2017 at 4:27pm
Very nice bracket set up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 6:48pm
Well the little loan I took out against my 401K a couple years ago worked out so well towards getting Chug done I decided to do it again. But this time to do it before construction season starts so I can have what should hopefully be the last of the Hard parts I need to assemble the Jeep once the "work" on the body and a few small parts is done. (only parts I have left to work on that aren't body parts are little things like Steering column brackets etc.) I should have the funds in hand in the next couple days and then I'll do my best to melt the Debt card and get the Brown and White trucks headed this way.

The wife was kind enough to suggest that since the little Pioneer Digital Stereo and Speakers I wanted were on sale at CAR TOYS I should just go ahead and get them now so I didn't miss out on the savings. The Stereo is only 5.5" deep so it will fit really well in a console between the seats. I think I am going to have to put the HUGE Cobra 29 LTD under the dash as it just seams to big to fit in the console the way I wanted to. But then I don't have seats in the jeep yet so that may change.

I have figured out how to make a pair of Kick Panel inserts to allow a shallow 6.5" round speaker to fit up out of the way. Once I get them made I'll post a drawing of the pieces in case anyone else would like to try them.

I know it seams like I am working on some stuff way out of order but there are some things like the Kick Panel Speaker boxes that are so much easier to work up while the Tub is on the Rotisserie then with me standing on my head leaning over the side wall wondering why my back is going into spasms.

 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 8:23pm
That jeep is going to be one of a kind ,nice job.

Giles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 9:48pm
Well we are cooking with gas now the Loan check just arrived time to try to melt my debt card and give the shipping guys a hernia.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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