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Battery Not Charging

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74bass View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 3:15am
I need help diagnosing my problem.  Right now it does not appear that my battery is able to charge itself while running.  I have driven it several times and take it as fast as 30 MPH, which I would think would create enough energy to recharge the battery.  Right now I have a battery tender that helps charge it before I take it out for a ride.  If I turn the car off and wait a couple minutes it barely has enough juice to get it running again (typically it takes 4 cranks to start/3 cranks to restart after sitting for 10 minutes).  What is the simplest way to figure out if my alternator is working?  I figure this will be the first step towards finding my solution.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 3:35am
A volt meter would be the easiest, but if you don't have one you can take one of the battery cable ends off while it is running at a fast idle and it should keep running while the cable is off if it is charging. You might have a bad battery or starter since it is only cranking over a few times with a charged battery.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 3:54am
6 volt or 12 volt?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 3:56am
I hate to be the grumpy old guy but this has all been covered in past threads. Generator working well, polarized, correct wiring, good wires and connections, ground connections, battery, starter, voltage regulator?
A search is your friend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 1:50pm
12 V.  Does it matter which battery cable is removed while running?  

Sorry Unkamonkey, the search feature does not work that well for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 2:03pm
Always undue the negative side first, not just for this test but any time you are disconnecting the battery. If you do the positive first and touch the stench to something while it's touching the battery terminal, at best you'll make a big spark. At worst you'll fry your alternator or blow the top off your battery. Negative first!

If you don't have a volt meter, run your rig down to your local auto parts store. Almost all off them will test you battery and charging system for free. I suspect you have a bad battery. If it will run ok once it's started, in my experience, it's usually the battery.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 9:10pm
I started the vehicle and pulled the negative off.  Does this confirm the alternator is bad?  I have essentially been charging the vehicle with the battery tender for a couple months.  Assuming that battery tender is able to charge it up enough to get me started/restarted do you think this means the battery is fine?  Just trying to avoid buying/installing a new alternator if not necessary.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 9:10pm
The vehicle stopped running when the negative was removed from the battery.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 9:38pm
Originally posted by 74bass 74bass wrote:

12 V.  Does it matter which battery cable is removed while running?  

Sorry Unkamonkey, the search feature does not work that well for me.


Underlining & bolding mine.

Yes, pull the Negative cable off. As has been said, pulling the Positive cable first will put you at risk of causing serious damage to yourself & your Willys.

If the wrench that you are using to loosen the battery cable nuts touches any metal while you are removing the Positive cable first, spark will fly! These sparks can ignite the Hydrogen gasses that are caused by charging the battery. This will cause battery to explode. Which will cause battry acid & battery pieces to fly everywhere!! Not good. As a side product, the sparks may damage your charging circuit. Keep in mind that Hydrogen gas is what was filling the Hindenburg. It is very explosive & it burns well. Do not assume that since you have not charged the battery for days, that it has no Hydrogen gasses around it. It may.

If the wrench that you are using to loosen the battery cable nuts touches any metal while you are removing the Negative cable first, there will be no sparks. Much safer.

Note: When working around batteries, always wear eye protection. Regular glasses are not enough. Safety googles or safety glasses with side shields are a must. It is your vision that is at risk here. Seriously, adding a face shield to the mix is a very good idea. Rubber gloves & apron are good as well. But at a minimum, safety glasses with side shields or googles are necessary.

Use the advanced search feature. The regular search feature is useless. Go to the search feature & click on the blue colored "Advanced Search" link. It is at the bottom of the box.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2017 at 9:38pm
the key word is alternator!  is this a one wire setup? or are you assuming it is an alternator? 

generators charge at a slower rate compared to alternators. 

first things first is it a generator or has the jeep been modified to use an alternator? 10 SI delco?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2017 at 3:28am
I am pretty sure what I have is a 3 wire alternator.  Delco Remy is the brand that I see on the part.  I have a 12V battery in there right now.  Where can I find a new one?  Is it pretty simple to replace?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2017 at 2:54am
I am sure I will be able to find one.  Is it pretty easy to replace?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plowpusher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2017 at 9:44pm
When you say 3 wire does it have a square plug in the back and one large wire or a flat plug with 2 wires on the side and one large wire out the back. Is there a  voltage regulator on the fender a "one wire alt" is the one with the flat plug also known as a 10si it has an internal regulator the 10si came on GM cars starting in 1969 the other type came 64-67 some 68 had 10si some had the early type. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2017 at 2:04pm
Attached is a picture of my current setup.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shulls1stcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2017 at 2:43pm
That is the common gm alternator part # 7127-3. Take it off and run it down local autozone,orally and have it bench tested that way you know for sure it's the alternator and not a wiring issue. It looks like it is wired correctly, sometimes the voltage regulator won't energize and allow charging until 800-900 rpm. If it is s bad alternator easy $50.00 fix.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2017 at 12:36pm
If it is determined that the alternator is the issue, would the following link be the correct replacement?


Thank you!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2017 at 3:47pm
HOLY CRAP BATMAN if its the alternator where you have it checked will be able to sell you another one for like $60-75 bucks. KW must have gold plated the inside of that alternator to think thats worth what they are asking.

I bought a BRAND NEW 105 AMP 10SI Marine one wire alternator off an eBay store for $62.00 with I think $8 in shipping


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr. 2017 at 2:27am
Does any one know the minimum amps that would be required on a new 10SI?  Also, has anyone else had to shave down the 2" ear to make it fit in their rig?    

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