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Buick V6 into CJ2A, minimal mods... |
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oldtime 
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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 Posted: 04 Aug. 2016 at 12:21am |
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Yes I agree that the T18 seems too heavy and its also a slower shifter.
The shorter T90-A weighs in at 60 pounds complete with shift tower The heavy duty T15 shifts very well and weighs in at about 85 pounds. It has an excellent first gear ratio of 2.99/1. With T15 behind Dauntless in a flatty the standard transfer case location is ideal.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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masscj2a
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2013 Location: Chester Mass Status: Offline Points: 793 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2016 at 10:22am |
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I went T-15 behind my 4.3 Vortec in my 47 build. Its lighter and smaller and shorter than my T-18 was by a lot. The T-15 allowed me to keep my project within the weight and length requirement that I was looking for. I weighed the option of having the low 632 to 1 ratio of the first gear of the T-18, but realized that having that T-18 on the raod, meant it was still only a 3 speed tranny. Your not using that first, non-sycronized first gear on the road anyways. So I figured why not just go with a heavy duty 3 speed like the T-15. It fits almost exactly like a T-90, but stronger, and less noise and its a true road worthy 3 speed. I also went with a Terra Low kit in my Dana 20, to get me that extra low gearing I was looking for. T-18 is a great tranny, but the T-15 is exactly what I was looking for. I have had several T-90's and they are good trannys, but I was looking for a first gear I could use more on the street.
Edited by masscj2a - 04 Aug. 2016 at 10:26am |
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1946 CJ2a Dauntless aka Jalopy
1946 VEC stock 1981 CJ-8 5.3 LS 1966 CJ-6 SBC TUX 1968 CJ-6 225 V6 1974 CJ-6 4.2 1967 M-416 East Coast Modified CJ's |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2016 at 5:45pm |
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Nice!
Right now I'm sitting on a pair of spares for both the T90 and the D18. I'll have to see if I can do some horse-trading and get my hands on a T15. |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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masscj2a
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2013 Location: Chester Mass Status: Offline Points: 793 |
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Posted: 05 Aug. 2016 at 2:10pm |
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T-15's in my area are hard to find, but dig deep and you will find someone to part with one. Its nice because it has a low first gear, that is synchronized and can be down shifted and upshifted with no grind.
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1946 CJ2a Dauntless aka Jalopy
1946 VEC stock 1981 CJ-8 5.3 LS 1966 CJ-6 SBC TUX 1968 CJ-6 225 V6 1974 CJ-6 4.2 1967 M-416 East Coast Modified CJ's |
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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Posted: 05 Aug. 2016 at 4:01pm |
I fully agree that a Dana 20 is far better with 3.15 Tera low gears. And T18 is overkill until you need it.
What final drive ratio do you have in your axles ? A big thing I like about installing the T15 with Dauntless is that it provides ideal firewall clearance and the transfer case stays put. Much better than relocating the transfer case foreward because the T90 with adapter is still a tad short. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 06 Aug. 2016 at 4:28pm |
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Old time, I have a couple questions for you:
Knowing I have the B6, TD-25, and the T90J input shaft, should I use a dished or flat Dauntless flywheel? Do the two flywheels use the same clutches? I'm going to mod one of my spare trans crossmembers to locate the trans/t-case an inch forward and fab a new clutch 'z-bar'. I'm finding that the bellhousing is actually touching the bottom of the tub Ina couple places, and I need to rectify that. I've been trying to contact Herm the ODG to order a flywheel, but he hasn't responded to email these last few days. Olympic 4x4 out on the coast has one each of the two types of flywheel, and I'll order today of they're open.
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 07 Aug. 2016 at 7:39am |
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Here's the motor so far:
 It's a 'motorpool rebuild' theme I pulled the oil pan and intake to look everything over. It was clean and tidy inside. We'll see how compression is after I get the flywheel. I fixed a few 'issues' the PO had unwittingly caused - like using a non-bypass thermostat gasket on a bypass housing. Coolant would have shot everywhere if it had been actually started. I removed the Offy intake (it's the wrong one for the heads, which are newer 'even fire') and reinstalled the factory intake that came with it (with new gaskets). The intake has a slot at the center right bolt hole, creating an opening for the head's EGR passage to dump directly to the atmosphere. A carb base gasket is inbound and will arrive around noon tomorrow. I've got new motor mounts, alternator, etc I modified a cross member to relocate the trans/t-case one inch forward and 3/4 inch closer to the centerline. No pictures - it's fugly... I'll get pics of it mounted soon... I have a RFQ (request for quote) in to Olympic 4x4 for pricing and availability for correct pulleys and alternator bracket. I should have asked about a dipstick, too. Oh. Can someone guess the color I used? Just on hint: It's not a Buick color, but it is General Motors related...
Edited by LesBerg - 07 Aug. 2016 at 7:20pm |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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Posted: 07 Aug. 2016 at 8:40pm |
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Not sure what you mean by dished.
The correct flywheel is recessed at the crankshaft. Has a flat clutch surface with a thick raised ring surrounding the outer diameter of the face. Clutches are `10.4 or 10-1/2" diameter You can use either a 3 finger type ( AKA Borg beck type ) or a diaphragm type clutch pressure plate assembly. The diaphragm type generally has smoother action and a little less plate pressure. The 3 finger is best for higher RPM and or Heavy Duty useage. The two clutch types require using different release bearings. Diapragm release bearing face is curved. 3 finger release bearing face is flat. The release bearing carrier I.D. must fit the T90 J bearing retainer diameter. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 07 Aug. 2016 at 9:15pm |
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These are the flywheels Olympic 4x4 has from Dauntless-equipped jeeps.
This one is from a 69 CJ5. To me, the engine side appears recessed and there is a raised ring around the edge on the clutch side. In the heavy truck industry, we'd call this a 'dished' flywheel because of the raised ring. Typically, the ring would be much deeper to accommodate two pressure disks and an intermediate plate, and the clutch cover would mount to the top of the ring. That said, I don't know if this would truly qualify as a 'dished' flywheel.   This one is from a 71 CJ5. Interesting... I didn't notice the ring around the outside edge of this one until I edited the picture and lightened it up considerably. It looks like they're the same style. I thought the clutch side of this one was flat, with no outer raised ring. Looks like I was wrong. The original pictures were much darker. I think I had the surfaces mixed up because of the wear pattern on the engine side.   That's an interesting wear pattern on the engine side of it... Either way, does this look like the correct flywheel? Thanks, Les
Edited by LesBerg - 07 Aug. 2016 at 9:18pm |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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Posted: 07 Aug. 2016 at 9:45pm |
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Yeah they both look the same and appear to be genuine Dauntless flywheels.
Should be around 49 pounds each.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Flatfender Ben
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Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Posted: 08 Aug. 2016 at 1:00am |
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DETROIT DIESEL......Screamin jimmy green?
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 08 Aug. 2016 at 2:38am |
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Hooyah!! Score one for Ben!
Driptroit Diesel it is! I love the color - it's industrial without being military, and we have a 54 GMC Greyhound bus with a 6-71. I love the two-stroke diesels. What can I say? I hate black on motors, it's hard to see leaks and other issues. I'm not a red fan, and I can't see a metallic green engine in the bay of a Desert Tan or Luzon Red CJ2A. I wanted an industrial look, and DD Alpine Green seemed the best choice. My wife loves the color, even before we bought the bus she bought fabric to make a summer dress in that color. You just can't loose.  Then, of course, there's the inside joke. One of the big nicknames of Detroit Diesels is Driptroit Diesel because they're so prone to leaking - much like the venerable CJ2A. My jeep has been sitting on the concrete driveway for about three weeks while I've been working on it, and there are puddles under the rear diff and transfer case.. So DD Green seemed appropriate.
 Edited by LesBerg - 08 Aug. 2016 at 2:44am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 08 Aug. 2016 at 2:51am |
Thanks Oldtime, I appreciate all the help/. I'll be ordering the flywheel tomorrow morning. I have the drive train moved forward one inch and offset 3/4 inch left of centerline at the trans. At the front of the motor it's just over 1/2 inch from centerline and sitting slightly cocked up on the passenger side. This is intentional though. What I get from this is that I have good exhaust clearance on both sides, the alternator clears the battery tray, and the fan sits about one inch from the radiator. The last piece I need to fab is a replacement clutch cross-shaft. The stock unit is just a little too short, so I'll stick it away in the 'stock parts' tub in the shed. I'll fab a new shaft and weld the arms that connect to the pedal and the cable are welded at a slight angle to compensate for the shaft not being perpendicular to the frame. We'll see if it works. Again, I really appreciate all the help/knowledge you've shared. Les
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 08 Aug. 2016 at 7:41am |
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Here are pics of preliminary fitment:
      Tomorrow I'll get started on the wiring for the HEI, alternator, and starter. I also need to set up fuel, carb linkage, and exhaust. I got the radiator plumbed in after I took the pictures, so that's off the list. The battery also fits nicely in the stock location.  I'll order the flywheel, and once the above task list is complete, I'll get the T90J main shaft swapped in. Once the flywheel arrives, that should just leave installing the flywheel, clutch, and setting up the clutch linkage. If I'm luck and the weather holds, I should be on track to make the Athol Days car show on Saturday and the B-25 photo shoot. Here's hoping!
 Edited by LesBerg - 08 Aug. 2016 at 7:56am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 08 Aug. 2016 at 7:49am |
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The more observant and experienced members familiar with B6 (Buick V6) swaps have probably noticed that I have the PCV valve in the wrong spot. I need to move it to the hole (!) in the passenger side rear of the intake and install a breather in the rear hole of the driver side valve cover, where the PCV valve is currently installed...
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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Flatfender Ben
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Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Posted: 08 Aug. 2016 at 8:17pm |
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Wow that looks great!
Makes me want to V6 jeep My answer to the color of your engine question was going to be same color as the motor in your bus ha ha ha ha. I can remember when I was six years old my dad had a 50s GMC 10 wheel truck that he haul logs on.It had a 4 71Detroit ,he torched a hole in the hood and had a 2 foot stack coming straight off the manifold it was so loud you could hear him coming from miles away!! What's the story on the 70s IH sitting next to the jeep? My dad has a 73 1 ton four-wheel-drive IH my grandpa bought brand-new. Edited by Flatfender Ben - 08 Aug. 2016 at 8:29pm |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 08 Aug. 2016 at 11:59pm |
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good eyes! that truck is totally unmarked. Nice! nothing like a rat rod logging truck!
My dad bought that about a decade back from a boys ranch in Spokane. The ranch used it as a work truck, and my dad used it for a plow truck until I busted a front axle shaft in it year before last. It a 74 IH 1210 with a flatbed and the biggest of the V8s. I can't remember exactly the displacement, except that it's around 400 cubes. It's 4 wheel drive with a divorced transfer case. It currently has a rear plow and I'm going to be fabbing up a front plow for it. I replaced the front axle assembly and am in the middle of a tranny swap. The donor axle is a 70's Dodge W10, so it's getting front disk brakes as part of the swap. The 727 died and it's getting the trans from the 71 1200
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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Mudrider1966
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Joined: 02 Apr. 2016 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Posted: 09 Aug. 2016 at 12:37am |
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Looks great!! I still like my red engine though.... Question...What kind of clearance do you have on your front drive shaft between the shaft and starter/motor. and how much clearance do you have between the front axle and oil pan when you compress the front suspension. Im kinda scared that my axle may hit my motor if I hit a deep ditch. Im kinda thinking about making my axle bump stop hang lower so I don't knock a hole in my motor. it might make the ride a little rougher but u might want to consider it too. U may not have that issue since there is no Buick V6 engine swap the same, from what I've read. Id hate to not say anything, and then u kill your motor. Post some pics if you can of the clearance on those places and what clearance you have with your pitman arm/ drag link. and trans crossmember and mods to the transmission cover. It would really help me out and probably help others because I cant find any pics on the web. all the pics I have found are motor in the frame (no body), or pics taken about 5 feet away of the motor completely installed.
Thanks, Ryan
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