Buick V6 into CJ2A, minimal mods...

LesBerg wrote: Sweet!   Those are great pics, Rick! Is that a factory fording kit?

Mix 2 PW radials with a RR Merlin and you've got real music..

Les, It might be a float adjustment in the carb that is all that is needed. I have had the same problem in the past when I was running a 225 V6 and a float adj. took care of it.

   Jim

Les...as I recall, it was the stock size fuel line on the V6 Jeep....maybe it is something like float level?

If your going to plumb off the drain hole, what I did on one of my jeeps to keep from sucking junk off the bottom of the tank was, slightly drill out the hole of the fitting screwed into the tank and tap a short piece of copper tubing into it to raise to suction level.
The small tube drivelines seem to be a heavier wall tubing than the larger ones.

Glad you made it and got some cool pics.

The v6 looks sweet

umm. yeah.found the dizzy problem...

Hey Les....any updates?

I want to thank you all for the great information and sharing on knowledge,  I spent a whopping 8 days swapping in my buick 225 into my 46 cj-2a, but not without a lot of research first.  I took the cheapest route, with the fewest modifications physically possible (So I think).  I was able to keep the battery and ross steering as original, and only needed to move the shifter cover in the cab 1.25" to the passenger side.   I ended up trimming the bell housing just below the lowest mounting bolt to clear the steering linkage.  Novak was dead in about the 1.25" shift to the passenger side, and they had great insight on how to keep the ross steering.  I aquired a Buick 225 fireball engine and adapted it to a Jeepster flywheel, bell housing, T-14 Transmission.  It is good to know that the shorter t-14 will help you keep your transmission in the same front/back location and prevent the need for driveshaft length changes.  I wanted to keep my model 18 transfer case, but the T-14 was married to a model 20 and the rear output yoke was in the wrong spot..  Also the t-14 10 spline output did not match the 6 spline input of a normal model 18.  No Problem,  the model 20  and model 18 were merged.  I used the 20 case and gears, but the output yokes and shaft from the 18.  It is amazing how interchangable they are.  I would be happy to elaborate if someone is thinking of doing this "Merge".  I removed the fan spacer and kept the original radiator from the 4 cyl.  (Jury is out on this, but I am hopeful)  I ran the radiator hose under the engine and up between the passenger motor mount and oil filter. This is about a 35" tube, but it is out of the way.  Shortening the Belt to the Alternator can keep it "tipped in" and this will help keep room for your battery on the fender.  The angle support directly below the battery tray will need to be removed to make room for your oil filter that will tuck under it.  I did not need to use a shorter filter, the 4.5" to 5" one still fits and let's you remove it.  Clutch linkage also stayed the same, but the cable needed to be lengthened, and you will need to space the frame side post about the 1.25" off the inside of the "C" frame to make up for the offset of the transfer case.  Front dump manifold works great, and you will need a tight bend back to avoid the front axle.  I piped the passenger manifold down and across the front of the transmission but above the skid plate, and "Y"ed it into the pipe coming from the drivers side.  You can keep the muffler here and it tucks nicely above your cross member and between the frame for maximum ground clearance.   Many think you need to change the steering, but the "shift" to the passenger side, really helps the front dump manifold, fit, and in reality, the original l-head was offset to the driver side, so when you move the buick 1.25" to the passenger side the engine sits dead center on the chassis.  I need to have the wing nut on the air cleaner in running front to back to avoid the center hood rib it is so close!  This is a really fun swap, and very satisfying.  Also for what is is worth, a Buick 225 (from a special or whatever before the Dauntless, will accept the dauntless flywheel just fine.  Also the crank and flywheel bolt pattern will only perfectly align in one of the 6 possible rotation options.  This ensures the crank and flywheel are in balance.  Lastly, the fan is not perfectly centered on the old Flattie radiator and you can trim some of the battery tray if you want some extra clearnance, but it may not be needed.  You can get a 1978 chevy camaro altenaternator with the integral regulator, from Orileys for 35$ and it fits right in, you need it in a 12:00 position FYI. 

What would the mechanical differences be in the Fireball and the Dauntless?