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First time Willys owner, new project

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Lemield View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lemield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2016 at 2:50pm
Nice job! Looks great! Smile
Larry

1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered
1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red"
1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon"
2001 Mercedes CLK320
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2016 at 3:32pm
.
Really enjoying this thread,   keep up the good work!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2016 at 4:16pm
Thanks guys. I'm going to get my rear heater installed today and start playing with cardboard heater ducts.

It'll mount behind the passenger seat in front of the wheel house. I'm going to try to run a duct or two for defrosting the windows...

if nothing else, it'll keep me entertained for the day. LOL
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lemield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2016 at 4:54pm
Hi LesBerg,
 
Here is a picture of my Jeep's defroster...might give you an idea....Dad fabricated the spring steel mount and it uses the existing windshield bolt...vacuum cleaner nozzle on the end....
 
Smile
Larry

1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered
1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red"
1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon"
2001 Mercedes CLK320
2003 Cadillac Seville
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2016 at 5:20pm
nice! I was thinking PVC mounted to the roof frame to be out of the way, but that looks like it works too.

I like the pockets on the doors too.
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lemield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2016 at 5:47pm
The doors and the top are a vintage Kayline 'Standard' top that they sold many years ago. My Dad had the Kayline factory install the top in 1974. It has been stored most of it's life but I put it on for the winter months, even though it rarely leaves the garage in the winter. I had the windows replaced on the top itself but the doors are all original.
 
Kayline stopped making the Standard top shortly after this one was installed. Maybe my Dad got a good deal on it????
 
I always liked the pockets on the doors too. Smile
Larry

1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered
1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red"
1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon"
2001 Mercedes CLK320
2003 Cadillac Seville
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2016 at 4:59am
OK, I've been too busy to post updates as they happen, so here's this week's recap:

This is the heater that was welded to the top of the toolbox when I bought the jeep:



It had a knob on the switch when I bought the jeep. It was broken off while 'stored' in the mess in the shed. I have no idea what it's from, but it works.

I installed it behind the passenger side front seat. It's strapped to the floor and plumbed along the floor to the firewall. I may install a shield over the hoses or plumb it under the floor. I haven't decided which yet. It's a 'seasonal' heater, and I'll pull it out over the summer and reinstall it again in the fall.



Heh, that hole in the wheel house behind it isn't the 'cold air intake'! That part of the wheel house was removed on both sides by the PO to fit a 35 gallon fuel tank. It's some of the last serious body work I have to do. 

My generator is weak, I can't get it to charge at over 12.21 volts, so I have to throw my battery on the charger every few weeks. When I pulled it last week, the wooden tray it sits in finally fell apart.  Thanks to a couple of posts here on theCJ2Apage, I fabbed a new top for the tray. All that was left of the original tray were the front and rear vertical pieces and the supports. They're rust pitted but intact. I didn't have enough metal on hand to fabricate an entire new tray, so I just made a replacement top.




It's installed and successfully supporting a battery...

1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2016 at 5:15am
I picked up the standard 12v conversion windshield wiper kit and got it installed yesterday. I'm less than impressed with it, I have to say.  It's too bad it's the only real option on the market.

It's painfully slow - slow enough that I'm wondering if I ended up with a 24v unit. It makes a complete wipe in about two seconds. It also has a narrower sweep than I was expecting. Oh well. I have a wiper now at least. I'll keep my eyes open for better solutions.

I also picked up a set of hood blocks and a new tie rod end. It turns out I have a bit of slop in my bellcrank as well, so I have work there too.

Jpet, what are your thoughts on how hard it would be to replace the standard drag link with a rod that used heim joints? My thought is to cut the balls off the bellcrank and pitman arm and replace them with either threaded ends or something I can install studs or grade 8 bolts to attach through the center of the heim joints.

This would reduce the play in the steering, but would it be too hard on the Ross steering box?


1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2016 at 7:47am
  Les,  The springs in the drag link ends absorb shocks that would otherwise be transferred to the steering gear. One spring one way, the other spring, the other way. You would lose that feature for sure. I wonder if that's something you would feel all the time.   BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2016 at 9:28am
Pondering it some more, I'm thinking that even if I don't feel it, the Ross box will. And they aren't the strongest box to begin with.

I'll keep the stock drag link, I think.
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2016 at 11:59am
Sounds like you got your question answered
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2016 at 2:08am
I got a little more taken care of today.

I used some of that 'D' profile stick on weather stripping around the inner windshield frame to keep the wind and rain out. I know I can get legitimate gaskets for cheap, but I can't see tearing the window frame down to install them before I have replacement glass.

The hood blocks are installed, and the front end  alignment is adjusted. Time for a test drive.

I was installing the rear shocks and found that a bracket a PO had welded to the axle was in the way of the shock. While cutting the welds, I managed to cut the brake line in half....Ouch

The shocks are on, though.

I got the rear wheel houses tweaked and fastened properly. Now I need to patch the holes.

I guess tomorrow I get to re-flare the end of the brake line. There's enough slack to cut the last couple inches off and flare it, so I don't have to replace the entire line.

Speaking of which, do any of the usual vendors carry frame-to-axle brake hoses that are longer than stock? With my 2 1/2 inch lift, mine need to be replaced.


1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
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Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 June 2016 at 9:51pm
Project update:
For those that didn't see the post under General Discussions, in early April I managed to kill my entire drive train over the course of a weekend.
 
Condensed version:
The rear bearing in the t-case let go, so I removed it (the t-case). While it was out, I tinkered with my turbo setup and ruined my transmission - the mainshaft separated and the 2-3 synchro assembly was destroyed as it skipped across the top of the spinning countershaft while I was playing with the engine.
 
After I got the transfer case and transmission fixed and reinstalled, I discovered I was horking oil out the exhaust on the number four cylinder. A teardown revealed bad valve guides. I replaced them and still have oil drooling out the exhaust on the #4 cylinder.
 
I picked up an 331ci Buick Oddfire V6 and will be installing it as soon as I can get a flywheel for it. I found one out at Olympic 4x4 in Snohomish, Washington. I just need to get the cash together to buy it.
 
The plan will be to install the V6 as an interim engine while I either fix my current L134 or pick up a good one. I'll get the turbo system worked out, then revert back to the L134.
 
Why screw around with the V6 then? It's the only motor I could 'locally' source to get the jeep back on the road in relatively short order. The only fabbing I need to do is engine mounts.
 
If someone has a good L134 and would like a complete V6/T90/D18 setup in trade, and can deliver, I'm all for it.
 
I haven't been able to start the V6 yet, but it turns over and seems solid. I'll post more details if someone is seriously interested in trading.


Edited by LesBerg - 13 June 2016 at 9:59pm
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct. 2016 at 3:42am
Hello everybody! Long time, no post. I've been working on this thing all summer (year?)!
The Buick V6 is in and running well. It has its problems, but most are the result of "I don't want to spend a ton of money on this motor if it doesn't run well." So now I need to replace the front crank oil seal and the starter.
 
So the last few pages show the canvas top I built. Well, it failed this spring. The weather go to it and it tore out. Shrinkage was amazing! In less than six months, it shrank three inches side-to-side, and four inches in length. None of the curtains fit anymore either.
 
Sooooo,
 
I bought a top off a CJ5 from a local gent, hoping I could mod it and make it fit. No joy.  It would have taken more work to mod it than build a hard top from scratch. And I would have destroyed the value of a vintage CJ5 top for someone who could put it to legitimate use.
 
So I put the top up for sale on Craigslist and sold it a couple days later. I was hoping to use the proceeds to buy a JD Squared tubing bender and a die or two, but the jeep heard about the money and crapped out.
 
Well, it didn't so much crap out as the throw out bearing let go just in time for the final weekend of elk season. That after I got the new top done just in time to start the season... Win some, lose some. Go figure, eh?
 
And I finally inspected the diffs. The rear was low on oil, but the front.... Oh god, the front... The pinion teeth are chewed halfway through, the bearings are shot, and the spider gears are pitted. From previous work I know I need a left axle shaft, so I have a LOT of work to do on the front axle.
 
I haven't found a replacement 5.38 gearset anywhere yet, either. I have one last card to play at a local bone yard, but if they don't have it I'm in trouble.  
 
The radiator is also on the verge of failure. It's spewing water from a number of places and the bottom hose is on the wrong side for the Buick V6. Oddly enough, the Buick runs cooler on this radiator than the L134 did.
 
I've heard of some people using Mustang radiators, and that it's nearly a drop in fit. But the question is "Which model Mustang, and what motor?" It's like an ad I saw on Craigslist: (funny rant, not angry Thumbs Up)
Role bar for sale, $40
It's the role bar off my jeep.
 
No kidding, eh? LOL
There are only about 42 models of Jeep you can make a roll bar for, not counting multiple models of the same truck, e.g. CJ5 & CJ5A
 
So I beg of you, which Mustang radiator is it that can be used with the Buick V6? And does anyone have a Dana 25 5.38 gearset they'd like to sell?
 
I'll post pictures as soon as I can find my USB cable to connect my phone...
 
UPDATE:
 
I found a gearset and fixed my clutch. It turns out that the clutch fork popped off the pivot. Then when I pushed harder on the pedal, I broke the rod. Too damn eager to get up the mountain. Maybe I'll learn something from it, but I won't hold my breath...
 
Anyway, I found a spare clutch rod clevis, so I shortened the rod an inch or so and threaded it for the other clevis.  Then I popped the clutch fork back where it was supposed to be, and adjusted it. Properly, this time.
 
I also picked up a good replacement front driveshaft, so it's a 4x4 again Thumbs Up


Edited by LesBerg - 08 Nov. 2016 at 4:58am
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct. 2016 at 3:47am
Oh yeah, I managed to replace the inner-to-outer windshield gasket and re-sealed the glass to the inner windshield frame. I swapped the cracked pane to the passenger side while I was at it.
I also finally took my rear-view mirror in to the local glass shop. They cut a new mirror for it and glued it in for a total bill of $18.50. They also quoted $22.20 each for new windshield panes, so I'll be able to replace both for half the cost of one from the internet.
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2016 at 4:41am
Okay, ladies and gents, time for an update.
 
The canvas top failed this summer. Completely. The canvas shrunk and rotted, and it was completely torn out by the end of June. By 'shrunk', I mean it lost three inches in length from top of the windshield to the rear bow, and four inches in width. Curtain shrinkage was just as bad.
 
The top fit a little loose when I finished it early in the year. By April, it was snug, and the rear curtain was hard to install. By the end of May, the rear curtain n o longer fit at all, and the side curtains would barely go on. By June, the roof had torn out and nothing at all fit any longer. The top was a total loss.
 
Granted, the canvas was from a tarp of completely unknown origin, but I figured I'd get at least a couple years out of it. The idea was to use the tarp canvas to learn to sew the heavy stuff and get my feet wet making a canvas top, so in all ways, it actually did what it was supposed to do.
 
I used my army-surplus canvas to build a second top. It's not quite done yet. I ran out of material, but it's complete enough for service.
 
The overall design criteria was to make a reasonably stock-appearing top that would:
  1. Mitigate the effects of shrinkage on top-to-vehicle fit
  2. Mitigate the effects of panel-to-panel shrinkage as pertaining to connecting the panels
  3. Be foldable for on-vehicle storage (as original, of course)
  4. Be able to be installed or removed quickly.
  5. Roll up the sides and strap then in that position if desired
  6. Mitigate drafts and water/mud/snow intrusion better than the original
  7. Better forward visibility in traffic
  8. Easier access through the rear curtain/flap

Bear in mind that I've never even seen a factory top in person, much less evaluated how well it works. All of my knowledge of the factory top is what I derived from the work Jpet and the community did when they reverse-engineered the factory top to make their own.

To address the shrinkage, I made the parts about 5% larger than they needed to be. For the tarp canvas, this still wouldn't be enough to last a whole year. However, when I built the top, I skinned the doors with my army-surplus canvas. At exactly one year old, they show no appreciable shrinkage when compared to the measurements originally used to cut the parts. I think 5% should be fine.

The front roof attaches in the stock fashion (or will once I have the turn-buttons). It attaches to the front bow with five buckled straps - two just off the center line, two that run from the corner of the windshield to the top of the just at the end of the curve where the leg transitions to the top. These straps run the full length of the canvas.
 
The last strap buckles on both ends. It runs from the leg of the front bow at the top of the door forward across the top of the windshield frame, and connects to the leg of the front bow on the other side. The fasteners that hold the front roof to the windshield anchor through this strap, and the other straps are sewn to it where they intersect across the front of the windshield. (Pics to follow, I hope this makes sense.)
 
Oh, yeah. twin skylights! The straps aren't using their 'final' routing at the bows. I'm playing with fit right now. Once I have everything where I want it, a footman loop will be installed on the back face of the front 'bow'. The strap will pass over the bow, over the outside of the loop, through the loop from the bottom, and back over the top of the 'bow' and into the buckle. This should prevent the 'pocketing' caused by wrapping the strap all the way around the bar, as it is now. The canvas will be 'aimed' at the top of the bow instead of the centerline.
 
 
The strap at the bottom of the pic is the one that wraps around the front. It's only sewn directly to the roof across the windshield, the rest is a canvas 'flap'. I inverted the 'rain flap'. Instead of sewing a rain flap to the outside of the roof and having a lap seam water can collect at, I sewed the flap to the inside to be structural. Pics can explain it better. I'll take some that show what I did.
 
The rear roof attaches to the front roof with a strip of 2" wide, adhesive-backed, industrial Velcro 65 inches long. It runs the complete width of the roof from door-top to door-top. Shrinkage can ripple the Velcro, but I can pop the two seams holding it on and re-attach it if need be.
 
I used Velcro to kill any issues of fastener alignment. If the front roof shrinks faster than the rear roof in any dimension, the Velcro won't care. The rear roof overhangs the front and sides by 2 inches, and the rear by three. Holding power is excellent. A 25 mile trip into Coeur d'Alene from here at 60mph in a storm went flawlessly. Headwinds were 15mph gusting to 40. The velcro shrugged off 60-100mph winds, depending on direction and speed limit. The windshield wiper however, seemed to be a little out of it's design envelop though...
 
I haven't created my flap to keep water on the rear roof from running under the front when braking yet. The weather hasn't been cooperating. I also don't have the straps installed for the roll-up sides yet.
 
The rear roof attaches to the rear bow the same was the front does, but just using the four top straps. You can kind of see it in this picture. You can see the straps running the full length of the panels. The idea behind full-length straps is to provide structure. The straps form a framework that anchors to the 'bows' and provides tension. The canvas is just along for the ride.
 
 
The side curtains are the same design as the rear roof. They attach at the top using the very same 2" industrial Velcro.
 
The side curtains aren't finished yet. They will get vertical straps that attach at the same points the factory top does, plus one extra to account for the extra length of the jeep.
 
Once the bottom straps are on, I'll sew another flap across the bottom of the inside of each curtain. It will start about 8 inches above the top of the tub and run three or so inches below the top of the tub. This should help keep drafts, rain, mud, snow, etc. out of the tub. I'm considering adding magnets to the bottom edges of the curtains to help hold them against the tub, but I'm concerned that it might wear the paint.
 
The side curtains also need windows!
 
An interesting thing about this top is that it has far fewer parts than the stock style. I say interesting because I put the whole thing together in less than a week, working about 10 hours a day. While that's potentially a 'good thing', I don't know if it will be as durable as the factory top.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The rear 'curtain' is a surprise. Wink It's a very early prototype that almost certainly won't work with standard bows. But it'll be great on this beasty.
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2016 at 5:05am
I can completely install or remove the top in less than five minutes.  The windows are/will be clear vinyl, so folding will work fine.
I think I've addressed the shrinkage - only time will tell.
 
Ah - forward visibility. The idea behind the skylights in the front was two-fold. One, as wonderful as the jeep is in the summer months with the top off and the window down, putting a top on it makes it feel like you're driving a bunker. It's dark inside, visibility is poor, and you can't see the sky. Or trees. Or mountains. Or, umm, traffic lights.
 
With the top off, I usually look over the top of the windshield to see traffic lights. I was hoping that this would help see them easier. Unfortunately, the front edge of the windows aren't quite far enough forward. I have to crane up almost as far I do down to see the lights.  Good idea, poor execution. I'll move them farther forward next time.
 
They are very nice for fall drives in the mountains, though. Smile 
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2016 at 6:07am
I've been running this top for a few weeks now...
 
Here it is undergoing 'field trials'
 
 
 
We'd normally just call this 'elk hunting' but I never saw any. Definitely doing it wrong...
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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