1 piece tie rod conversion |
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all4jpn
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2006 Location: f-burg,VA Status: Offline Points: 1778 |
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Posted: 01 Oct. 2010 at 10:31pm |
Many complain about the Willys wobble and some desire to completely get rid of the antiquated ross steering box. While a conversion to another box is a common modification, I view this as the middle ground. You eliminate the dual tie rod setup, and its inexpensive. My flatty was at the point where i was rebuilding the entire steering system, so for a few dollars more, i updated the whole setup.
After researching and asking questions of other who have done this...here is what you need...
I purchased
#6830 - Long Tie Rod, Extra Heavy 1" Thick-wall Tube (35 1/2" length), jam nuts included. - $50
from herm (advance adapters also has them). I also ordered the double tie rod end and opposite single tie rod end. I gambled since this was a heavy duty rod, I wasnt sure if these were stock ends or some aftermarket larger piece. The rod is definetly thick, but the ends are stock crown/omix pieces. You can get them from Herm, or whatever aftermarket company that has the best price. My 2a also had the larger m38 tie rods/ends. These are huge compared to the stock units.
the pic shows the m38 rod and end and the stock 2a end and tube
The ends are the same size, but the threaded portion is obviously thicker. Since i was going through the system, i figured beefier is better. I ordered m38 ends from Northstar Willys.
Use the passenger side tie rod (either stock or m38)
so far you are at 4 tie rod ends (one double) and the 1 stock tube and one long tube
I used the toe in/out method that i've used on my newer jeeps. pick a point on the front of the tire (used a point on the chevron/tread) and the same point on the other tire, then measure....do the same for the back and get them close to equal....then i installed all the tie rods.
my 2a already had a steering stabilizer so i figured why not while i was at it. I re-used the mounting brackets and bought a new stabilizer from Morris 4X4. The stabilizer with new brackets is around $75.
to figure out where to put the end bracket, put the bracket that goes on the axle tube against the brake line fitting. the other one goes to the long tie rod end. Jack up the jeep and cut the wheel to the drivers side. When it locks, put the other clamp/end at that point.
heres the finished pics.
although i havent driven the jeep much, with the rebuilt steering system and this conversion, it handles like the other manual steering vehicles that i've driven...so if you are replacing your tie rod ends you can spend an extra $50 for a single long rod conversion...
and for another $75 can add a steering stabilizer......
Hope these options help
Edited by all4jpn - 01 Oct. 2010 at 10:35pm |
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46 cj/06 lj/ and mb/2a/38 hybrid project
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rrivera1833
Member Joined: 28 Nov. 2009 Location: Quantico, VA Status: Offline Points: 507 |
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Nice write up
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2nd LT Rivera/ SSgt Rivera USMC
48 CJ2A T3-C Bantam #655 |
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jeep4752
Member Joined: 20 Jan. 2010 Location: Ont. Canada Status: Offline Points: 237 |
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I have a '47 CJ2A with a 2wd DJ front axle, i used the stock drag link from the DJ axle and had it shortened to work with the stock bellcrank. It works perfectly, no wandering or wobble at all and i don't use a steering stabilizer either although the mount is still on the DJ axle if i should choose to use one in the future. Thanks for the write up! I'm sure others will follow suit on this mod! I highly recommend it.
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Flat fenders forever!
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porsskar
Member Joined: 28 Sep. 2010 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 1441 |
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How did this stabilizer "change the feeling" in the steering?
I have only driven my 2a without the motor (got pushed into the garage) and it felt like driving a lathe.
Maybe it will improve with the motorweight in the front.
Sten from Finland
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Sten from Finland
1947 CJ2A serial 94118 1949 8NAN Ford tractor 1965 Mahoghany Snipe FIN 14018 |
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shakyshot
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2009 Location: Helena, Montana Status: Offline Points: 380 |
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All4jpn - Great writeup. I have already replaced my tierods with the original style but you have given me some thought for the future.
porsskar - You asked exactly the question that I was thinking. I have found that since putting the 6X16 tires on and the "original" wheels the Jeep handles much better. I have wondered though how a damper might work. Not so much to address the play the Jeep seems to have but alow for a less jerky feel.
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1947 CJ-2A #103586 "Les"
1947 Bantam T3C Hiawatha "Moore" Hayes Family CJ-2A Montana Rocky Mt. Flat Fender Club |
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all4jpn
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2006 Location: f-burg,VA Status: Offline Points: 1778 |
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i've only driven the new setup around the block..my stock setup before was extremely worn, borderline dangerous so i only drove it around the yard..come spring when mine is done...i'll let Rivera ,if he is still in VA, drive it so he can compare...this new setup seems just as good as any other vehicle i have....other than the manual steering....which is still better than my buddys 69 mustang with a manual box....just to add the 11" brakes are ridiculous at stopping
Edited by all4jpn - 06 Oct. 2010 at 12:46pm |
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46 cj/06 lj/ and mb/2a/38 hybrid project
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sireland67
Member Joined: 27 Feb. 2009 Location: Nutter Fort WV Status: Offline Points: 989 |
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Do the 11 brakes really make that big of a difference?
I have to stand on mine to get it to stop very fast.
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1948 CJ-2A
2003 TJ |
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all4jpn
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2006 Location: f-burg,VA Status: Offline Points: 1778 |
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yes they do...i am completely satisfied with their stopping power...
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46 cj/06 lj/ and mb/2a/38 hybrid project
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jeep4752
Member Joined: 20 Jan. 2010 Location: Ont. Canada Status: Offline Points: 237 |
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I run the original 11" drum brakes that came with my DJ axle and the stock drum brakes on my CJ5 rear axle in my '47 along with a dual brake system master cylinder from a '70ish CJ, the stopping power is amazing, no way i would run the original 9" brakes these old girls came with from the factory in the traffic there is today. Makes driving it much more enjoyable and safer.
Getting back to the original concept of this thread, i also run the stock Ross steering box and drag link too, both rebuilt. One thing that i think many people neglect to do in these Jeeps is to keep an eye on the adjustments in the steering linkages. Parts i have seen over the years had been neglected both grease wise and adjustment wise. Keep 'em adjusted properly and greased up along with the tie rod conversion i did and it should be an enjoyable ride for many years to come.
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Flat fenders forever!
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beefspots
Member Joined: 26 Mar. 2010 Location: Dayton Wyoming Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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Any others with 1 piece conversion? Seriously considering it.
Thanks
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1951 3A #43742
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Mike S
Member Joined: 20 May 2006 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 2318 |
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I have the long tie rod, one-piece conversion on my '47. Bubba had put fat tires and wide rims on it and it was a chore to drive. Went to different rims and narrower tires, and it drove much better. Once I finish reversing the spring over and get the suspension and steering geometry correct (I'll leave the long tie rod), I'll be better able to tell you how it handles in all situations.
I also have the 11" brakes and can't imagine using the originals in almost any driving situation.
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'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear Lock-Right locker 11" drum brakes Dual master cylinder T90C Transmission 16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels Cooper STT Pro tires |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4139 |
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Recent related topic on the 3B forum:
Note: The early manufactured 1 piece tie rod conversions are of standard thickness. (not thick walled as shown above)
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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willys54wagon
Member Joined: 24 July 2008 Location: Ames, IA Status: Offline Points: 1444 |
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So where is this kit available now?
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Two jeeps on the road, one is close and the rest are dreams.
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Mike S
Member Joined: 20 May 2006 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 2318 |
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I know Herm has the parts/kit.
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'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear Lock-Right locker 11" drum brakes Dual master cylinder T90C Transmission 16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels Cooper STT Pro tires |
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hawkjeep
Member Joined: 01 June 2010 Location: CA santa ana Status: Offline Points: 164 |
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nice one
i got do that in my jeep
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cj2a 1948 155822 v6 sold
cj3a 1950 3J45548 4L MB |
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Has anyone done this using Omix-ADA or Crown parts? What part numbers did you use?
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montymech
Member Joined: 18 Apr. 2012 Location: Dartford. UK Status: Offline Points: 324 |
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All4jpn. When I posted the tie rod problem I thought I'd be 'shot out of the sky' for having made the classic mistake; not recording detail before the tear down. The configuration looked pretty obvious so I didn't bother. It was when I realized that I had not seen the system in any steering related articles that I became concerned. Thanks for your definitive answer; the pictures were spot on. Looks as though the conversion is one that others' view as desirable. Mine appears to be the earlier thin tube version. Monty
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Rick R
Member Joined: 10 May 2015 Location: Black Hills Status: Offline Points: 341 |
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I too used Herms one piece tie rod and dual reservoir master cylinder kit. As I installed a Rancho 2-1/2" suspension lift along with 11" brakes front and rear I also did a tie rod over conversion using goferitoffroad.com tie rod inserts to level up the steering geometry a bit. I run Wild Country LT245/75R16 tires and have used this setup on some rough/rocky trails in the Black Hills with no problems.
Rick R (in the beautiful Black hills of South Dakota but sadly missing the fall colors tour in Colorado) |
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RWILLYS (Space R)
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