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Distributor stuck and broke off

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Raidersrock210 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 12:00am
I need some guidance. Bought a 1946 cj2a for sons and I to have as a project. Just starting to "discover" its history. Pulled engine and during breakdown realized the distributor is broke off and someone tried to chisel out (see photo).

Researched other posts for help. Tried driving it out from oil pump side. Got the bushing you see in the photo out, but distributor assembly metal did not budge.

Question- does this look to far beat up to salvage (tough for me to tell, I am new to this and do not have a distributor to compare to yet)?

We thought about possibly driving a 5/8 rod through from the pump side and try to rig a cutter on we can back into it. Other options are drilling or saw cutting and chiseling. Other ideas?
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 12:58am
WOW.... My guess is your going to have to machine cut that out somehow most likely to an over size and press in a bushing. Someone messed that UP.

Even if you could put a rod in from the oil pump side and whale on it pounding the piece of the Distributor shaft out. It would never seal properly. You could easily bust the whole side out of the block pounding on it.

Personally if I needed to save that block I would take it to a good machine shop and have them bore it out and then either weld up and machine off the face surface or machine it down smooth and make a matching spacer to be used under the distributor to hold it at the proper height.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 1:06am
Find another block.

Life is only as good as you make it.
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p3ferris View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 1:10am
I would try to drill the shaft and tap it for a bolt to screw in.  Then use a puller to pull on the bolt head
 just an idea
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 1:13am
The surface where the distributor would set on is buggered up. If you machine it down the distributor will set to low in the block and you will have to shorten the dist. shaft. It's not worth the effort or trouble. Get another block.

Life is only as good as you make it.
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p3ferris View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 1:21am
One could build it up and grind it down also
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 1:33am
Depends on how much time you want to spend on the block. Most anything is possible but is it worth it?

Life is only as good as you make it.
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Raidersrock210 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Raidersrock210 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 1:45am
Sounds like best case is take it to a machine shop for an estimate and maybe i am lucky. I assume I would need to get specs and/ or a distributor for them to evaluate with.

I still don't know whether it has other issues or not, it was rebuilt .030 over at some point, and cylinders look good, but not sure how it got into the condition it is.

If I look for a new block, any suggestions on where? I am in Nebraska.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 7:05am
You have a good idea, take the block to a machine shop for evaluation. Be sure to take the main bearing caps & bolts in with it. You may find that it is cracked or has some other problems that make it non-repairable.

I wonder what else the PO messed up on this engine, to say nothing of the rest of the Willys. I would evaluate the entire engine before I went looking for parts for yours. You may find that you will be time & $$ ahead to buy another engine, (either used or rebuilt),  rather then rebuild this one. It may be too far gone. I hope not.

If you need a new, (to you), block or engine, you could post an ad in the wanted section of this forum. There are members here that do a lot of engine work. They will have one for you.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.



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Adrian View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 7:23am
Its fixable, being at the bottom of the planet we have no choice here.

If you can tap the broken section, then screw a high tensile threaded rod in, put a spacer over the rod so it sits on the munted face and then use some hardened washers, nuts etc and "jack" the broken piece out.

Plenty of your favourite penetrating oil will help as well.

The face that has been attacked will clean up ok.

Just make sure that there are no dags on the inside of the hole, bits that will stop the broken part sliding out, it looks like there may be some ridges formed by the man who went mad with the chisel...

Adrian
1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 12:32pm
Originally posted by Adrian Adrian wrote:

Its fixable, being at the bottom of the planet we have no choice here.

If you can tap the broken section, then screw a high tensile threaded rod in, put a spacer over the rod so it sits on the munted face and then use some hardened washers, nuts etc and "jack" the broken piece out.

Plenty of your favourite penetrating oil will help as well.

The face that has been attacked will clean up ok.

Just make sure that there are no dags on the inside of the hole, bits that will stop the broken part sliding out, it looks like there may be some ridges formed by the man who went mad with the chisel...

Adrian
 
As Adrian states  clean up the inside face from scares   I do see that it has been smashed in on the top right of the hole.  It needs reemed a little to make it rounded out.  And the word I was looking for was jacked  a better term for what I  ment to do
 
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 12:51pm
I drilled mine carefully until I got close to the original bore. Then hand hacksawed it in three spots and it broke into pieces and came out. There is a shelf at the bottom with a smaller hole for the distributor shaft to pass through. The ring and washer will stay there below the stub of the distributor. Don't try and drill all the way or you'll hit the shelf. My bit simply turned on top of the washer below. You can't beat it out from below. Not sure how far they ground the block. You could measure another one and make a flat spacer to get the right height.   It's worth doing if the rest of the engine is OK.  Patience is the key. Slow and easy. Take your time. I drilled with progressive sized bits until close but not into the original bore. By then a hack saw blade in your hand , would fit to the bottom of the distributor stub. That said, I like the idea of drilling and tapping the distributor stub and trying a slide hammer. All the material is cast iron. It's soft. Don't get too rough or you'll be done.  It can be done, I'm living proof. LOL, John
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Joe Friday View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2015 at 5:40pm
Or ask your machinist to make it look like this...

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Raidersrock210 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Raidersrock210 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan. 2015 at 2:02am
Update: the block lives on another day! This is how we got the embedded distributor piece out ( not sure it was the best method, but worked)

Yesterday we used a piece of 5/8" steel to work up through the oil pump shaft. We fluted the end and twisted it into the block in order to chew through the rust inch by inch. Once we reached the collar and thrust washer, we tapped the steel hoping to push the whole piece out. This did not work! We broke the collar and washer, and drove the bushing out. Once these pieces were out, we soaked with liquid wrench.

Today we returned with a saws all. We modified a short blade with a grinder to fit within the approximately 5/8" opening,. We then carefully saw cut the broken distributor metal. Once through, we tapped the piece into the block to check if it would move, and it did! We then hooked one end of a puller onto the back of the piece through the distributor hole, and drove the 5/8" steel back in through the oil pump hole to drive the piece out. We think some cleanup with Emory cloth may be all we need in the block opening, but will know more once i get a distributor. Now on to extracting at least 6 twisted off studs the PO left me in the block!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan. 2015 at 3:02am
WOW world class PITA
 
Glad you were able to save the block I hear a rumor they aren't making any more LOL!
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan. 2015 at 8:57pm
Good show! I am glad that you were able to save this block.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dirtmonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2015 at 12:16am
Props! Hopefully the rest of the block isnt as jacked up!!!
Current: '48 CJ2A #188461, '97 Jeep TJ, 2010 JK Unlimited (wife's), and a '97 Jeep Cherokee
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