A little body work advice needed |
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jeepermat
Member Joined: 18 Aug. 2007 Location: Dubuque, Iowa Status: Offline Points: 164 |
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Posted: 22 Nov. 2007 at 6:57pm |
This is my 482a. I bought it from someone who started rebuilding it, little did I know what I was getting into.
I am doing some of the body work right now, definatley not my favorite thing to do. I thought the body was pretty straight until I really started getting into it. It has a ton of body filler. I have been scraping that crap off for a few months now to see what I have.
Here is the pass side below the door
I was thinking about just cutting it out right were the tool box seam is, and replacing it. What gauge steel have you guys used for this? Any pics of how you did yours?
Next up is the front part where the fender attaches, it has a pretty nasty crease
I have no idea what to do here, I think I could straighten it ok, then use filler, but I really hate using lots of filler, any recomendations?
On to the rear fender, is looks like swiss cheese up close, and is really weak, I want to cut it out and replace it, but again easier said than done. The damage extends all the way around to the tailgate, there is a ton of filler there to remove, but it looks pretty bad.What have you all done for repairs here? Just looking for any advice/past experience.
Thanks
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Pat T.
Member Joined: 14 Feb. 2006 Location: Central IL Status: Offline Points: 675 |
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I hope you get some replies as I am in the same boat. I am taking off the body to repair under both seats and found allot of body filler. My floor is warped also and all the hat channels are gone. I am looking into getting a new tub but really wasn't plannning that much money right now. If it was just replacing the floor ,that won't be that bad but as I get into this project it is more than maybe I can handle. It started out cleaning up the frame and doing the floor.
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jeepdaddybrian
Member Joined: 15 Oct. 2007 Location: fruitland, md Status: Offline Points: 476 |
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to do it properly, start with getting the body sand or media blasted. that will remove everything to give you a fresh start. you can buy the steel panels already shaped from numerous places or if your crafty buy a blank sheet of steel and shape your parts. cut out all the rust. weld in the new panels. if you are going that far to restore it, you should not cut corners. whenever you do need filler, instead of bondo, use all-metal. great stuff!
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wyowillys46
Member Joined: 05 Aug. 2005 Location: Denver Status: Offline Points: 1453 |
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18 ga steel for replacement panels. Some areas use heavier stuff (16 ga) like the side risers in the floorboard area. You're tub looks a lot like my first one. Like someone took it to a batting cage and used it for target practice. You'll be getting a lot of experience in replacing steel. Unfortunately, you'll most likely have to use some filler.
I would vote for not getting the tube sandblasting prior to replacement bodywork. The point being that all that welding will take a lot of time, and freshly sandblasted surfaces are very prone to flash rusting. I did all my body work before hand, then had it sandblasted. That way you get all any beads, seams, and other welding debris blasted off. Once you get it back from the blasters, you can have it in primer within a couple hours. Edited by wyowillys46 - 23 Nov. 2007 at 12:23am |
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1946 #27869
Take a look at my webpage: <a href="http://wyowillys46.awardspace.com">Wyowillys46</a> |
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m38mike
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3798 |
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Jeepermat, I had some of the same problems, swiss cheese floor
panels, but none of the body filler that you have. I've been
replacing parts by cutting out bad steel and welding in good 18 gage
sheet metal. I'm replacing 4 of my hat channels. Since
you're in Colo, I'd tell you to go ahead and get your tub sandblasted
to get rid of the filler. That will also show you where you have
more problems with pinholes or weak steel. I had my tub
sandblasted in August ($480) and I'm still working on the bare
steel. (yes, I'm slow doing body work) The only surface
rust that's shown up is where I spilled some water on it. For
your project, I'd consider looking for complete replacement panels,
unless you're a good welder and have the tools to do the corner
rolls. Otherwise you'll be spending a lot of time with a bodywork
hammer to flatten out all those wrinkles.
For butt welding in patches, I've been cutting my patches just a hair smaller than the hole I'm filling. I use a copper plate behind each seam I weld to help avoid burning thru the seam. I made the copper plate by cutting a piece of copper pipe lengthwise and then opening it up and pounding it flat. I made a small one for holes and tight places, and a long one for long seams. It sure seams to help me get a good butt weld, and since I'm not a school-trained welder, everything I can do to help, does help. |
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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GaryArf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 July 2005 Location: Baxter MN Status: Offline Points: 3905 |
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The only way to get the end of the trail is one step at a time. Full body panels are easier in some respects and harder in others. If your going to do a panel, only do one at a time and perferably with the body on a straight frame. This may be difficult lF your doing like say the rear floor and rear quarters. If your going to do small patches is isn't as important to have it on the frame as the tub is in one piece. Lomar15 has done some extentive bodywork. maybe looking at his photo album will give you some ideas if it gets that involved.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lomar15CJ2A (look under body work)
I really respect the amount of thought and great work he has done. Not many have starterd with a rougher body
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CJ2A #10021 #34692 #58500
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jeepermat
Member Joined: 18 Aug. 2007 Location: Dubuque, Iowa Status: Offline Points: 164 |
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http://picasaweb.google.com/lomar15CJ2A
That was very impressive! Very nice work Lomar15, I dont think I have the patience for all that, but my body isnt nearly that bad. I have a sandblaster so I am going to blast it anyway, I just hate the mess it makes. For the flat panels I will probably just weld in new sheet metal, but the curved section aroun the fender I will look for replacement panels. Any recomendations on who to buy from? Thanks |
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jeepermat
Member Joined: 18 Aug. 2007 Location: Dubuque, Iowa Status: Offline Points: 164 |
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ALright I just found this
Looks pretty easy, to me definatley worth the money. I ordered some of the side steps that were Omix-ada and wasnt too impressed with the quality, any word on these? Are there any other brands?
Thanks!
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bkreutz
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Oct. 2006 Location: Fruitland Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7037 |
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I used parts from Classic enterprises ( http://www.classicent.com ) (still can't get a clickable link to work, sorry) They're US made, I've had good luck with the panels I used (floor channels and a rear floor) I have no experience with the exterior panels, I agree with your idea about making the flat panels out of sheet stock and buying the curved parts, they would be very difficult to make without a lot of fabricating tools.
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m38mike
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3798 |
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Jeepermat and Pat T.,
If I was you, I'd send Lomar15 an email and ask him about hat channels for your tub. He made a set for me, and they were spot-on matches to the ones on the tub, only without the rust! He really does do great work. I'd buy parts from him again anytime. Just thought you should know. |
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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CJ2aAl
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Sep. 2006 Location: south Jersey Status: Offline Points: 902 |
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I second m38mike on Lomar15's hat channels.
I too got a set. Great work. |
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1948 CJ2a #196169
1995 YJ 1997 ZJ 2001 WJ |
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gixxerman
Member Joined: 22 Oct. 2007 Location: Lynchburg VA Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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3M mmakes a good weld through primer if you deside to blast it first.
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99 xj,47 cj2a
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Lomar15
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Jan. 2006 Location: Fanny Bay, B.C. Canada Status: Offline Points: 1226 |
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Wow, thanks guys, for all the good words. I missed this post last week, just read it now. Jeepermat, your body looks great to me. I would patch the rust holes, its not all that hard to do, mig welder works great, but a stick welder will work just as good. I would invest in a good body hammer and dolly, you would be amazed at how smooth you can get the panels in just a few minutes of hammering. At the least you will get the body filler needed, to a minimum. Eastwood has some nice body hammer kits for reasonable prices.
Bob
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46 CJ2A #48777
42 MB Slat Grill 119898 Frame 51 M38 Body 42 MB #155950 Spen Trailer http://picasaweb.google.com/lomar15CJ2A |
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Scott R
Member Joined: 16 Mar. 2007 Location: Gaines, MI Status: Offline Points: 1392 |
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M38Mike, great idea about using copper behind the seam to keep from burning thru. I’ve used a copper backer to fill holes before but never considered using it the way you do. That just might be the trick that will let me do sheet metal work with my stick welder.
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m38mike
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3798 |
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Scott R, I'm curious what rod you're using and what settings for using a stick welder on sheetmetal. I've never had good success with my AC arc machine. Even using very thin rod, I just seem to burn thru. I've tried 7018, and 6011 rod but it just seems too hot. I'm using a Millermatic 130 wire feed with gas and getting good welds, but even set on power 2, I can burn thru the 18 ga sheet so I use the copper backplate to keep the heat in place and control the wire from going thru. That backplate really helps this amateur. I hope it works for you. Jeepermat, Lomar15's words are true. A little work with a hammer and molly could save you lots of work replacing body parts. The 18 ga sheetmetal responds easily to reshaping. It's worth a try, and the tools are inexpensive to help you do a great job. I'd consider it.
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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Try www.classicent.com/index.php for classic enterprises. This url works for me.
Terry |
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BOULDER 48 2A
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Longhunter
Member Joined: 13 Dec. 2006 Location: Meridian, MS Status: Offline Points: 2171 |
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I don't know for sure but everyone on the "G" swears that there is only one US manufacturer of body panels and that is:
They say everything else, no matter who you buy from, is made by MD Juan.
I plan to give Jeepanelsplus a shot when I start my '48.
Just my $.02.
PS
Terry,
I checked out your link and this site does stress that their body parts are US manufactured.
I may have to consider their panels also when the need arises. Edited by Longhunter - 29 Nov. 2007 at 8:01pm |
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Mike in Mississippi
2006 Jeep Rubicon 1946 CJ2a #49667 1946 Bantam T3-C #7909 1 UNDERSTANDING Wife "2 wrongs don't make a right but 3 rights will make a left".... Gallagher |
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bkreutz
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Oct. 2006 Location: Fruitland Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7037 |
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I was pretty happy with classic, they worked with me on making seat back skins and I like their freight policy, it's a percentage of the cost (I think 10%) regardless of the size of the part, oversize freight can be a killer.
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