Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > General Discussion
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - A little body work advice needed
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

A little body work advice needed

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
Author
Message
jeepermat View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 18 Aug. 2007
Location: Dubuque, Iowa
Status: Offline
Points: 164
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepermat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: A little body work advice needed
    Posted: 22 Nov. 2007 at 6:57pm
This is my 482a. I bought it from someone who started rebuilding it, little did I know what I was getting into.
I am doing some of the body work right now, definatley not my favorite thing to do. I thought the body was pretty straight until I really started getting into it. It has a ton of body filler. I have been scraping that crap off for a few months now to see what I have.
 
Here is the pass side below the door
I was thinking about just cutting it out right were the tool box seam is, and replacing it. What gauge steel have you guys used for this? Any pics of how you did yours?
 
Next up is the front part where the fender attaches, it has a pretty nasty crease
I have no idea what to do here, I think I could straighten it ok, then use filler, but I really hate using lots of filler, any recomendations?
 
On to the rear fender, is looks like swiss cheese up close, and is really weak, I want to cut it out and replace it, but again easier said than done. The damage extends all the way around to the tailgate, there is a ton of filler there to remove, but it looks pretty bad.What have you all done for repairs here? Just looking for any advice/past experience.
 
Thanks
Back to Top
Pat T. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 14 Feb. 2006
Location: Central IL
Status: Offline
Points: 675
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pat T. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2007 at 8:30pm
I hope you get some replies as I am in the same boat. I am taking off the body to repair under both seats and found allot of body filler. My floor is warped also and all the hat channels are gone. I am looking into getting a new tub but really wasn't plannning that much money right now. If it was just replacing the floor ,that won't be that bad but as I get into this project it is more than maybe I can handle. It started out cleaning up the frame and doing the floor.
Back to Top
jeepdaddybrian View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 15 Oct. 2007
Location: fruitland, md
Status: Offline
Points: 476
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepdaddybrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2007 at 9:47pm

to do it properly, start with getting the body sand or media blasted. that will remove everything to give you a fresh start. you can buy the steel panels already shaped from numerous places or if your crafty buy a blank sheet of steel and shape your parts. cut out all the rust. weld in the new panels. if you are going that far to restore it, you should not cut corners.

whenever you do need filler, instead of bondo, use all-metal. great stuff!
47 cj2a # 94348
48 cj2a #193443

http://bshockleywillysrestopics.myphotoalbum.com/
Back to Top
wyowillys46 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 05 Aug. 2005
Location: Denver
Status: Offline
Points: 1453
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wyowillys46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2007 at 12:19am
18 ga steel for replacement panels. Some areas use heavier stuff (16 ga) like the side risers in the floorboard area. You're tub looks a lot like my first one. Like someone took it to a batting cage and used it for target practice. You'll be getting a lot of experience in replacing steel. Unfortunately, you'll most likely have to use some filler.

I would vote for not getting the tube sandblasting prior to replacement bodywork. The point being that all that welding will take a lot of time, and freshly sandblasted surfaces are very prone to flash rusting. I did all my body work before hand, then had it sandblasted. That way you get all any beads, seams, and other welding debris blasted off. Once you get it back from the blasters, you can have it in primer within a couple hours.


Edited by wyowillys46 - 23 Nov. 2007 at 12:23am
1946 #27869

Take a look at my webpage:

<a href="http://wyowillys46.awardspace.com">Wyowillys46</a>
Back to Top
m38mike View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Apr. 2007
Location: Colorado High Country
Status: Offline
Points: 3798
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2007 at 6:27pm
Jeepermat,  I had some of the same problems, swiss cheese floor panels, but none of the body filler that you have.  I've been replacing parts by cutting out bad steel and welding in good 18 gage sheet metal.  I'm replacing 4 of my hat channels.  Since you're in Colo, I'd tell you to go ahead and get your tub sandblasted to get rid of the filler.  That will also show you where you have more problems with pinholes or weak steel.  I had my tub sandblasted in August ($480) and I'm still working on the bare steel.  (yes, I'm slow doing body work)  The only surface rust that's shown up is where I spilled some water on it.  For your project, I'd consider looking for complete replacement panels, unless you're a good welder and have the tools to do the corner rolls.  Otherwise you'll be spending a lot of time with a bodywork hammer to flatten out all those wrinkles. 

For butt welding in patches, I've been cutting my patches just a hair smaller than the hole I'm filling.  I use a copper plate behind each seam I weld to help avoid burning thru the seam.  I made the copper plate by cutting a piece of copper pipe lengthwise and then opening it up and pounding it flat.  I made a small one for holes and tight places, and a long one for long seams.  It sure seams to help me get a good butt weld, and since I'm not a school-trained welder, everything I can do to help, does help. 
M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A
4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw
51 M38 Green Jeanne
52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale
52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box
Back to Top
GaryArf View Drop Down
Member
Member

Sponsor Member

Joined: 21 July 2005
Location: Baxter MN
Status: Offline
Points: 3905
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GaryArf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2007 at 7:56pm
The only way to get the end of the trail is one step at a time. Full body panels are easier in some respects and harder in others. If your going to do a panel, only do one at a time and perferably with the body on a straight frame. This may be difficult lF your doing like say the rear floor and rear quarters. If your going to do small patches is isn't as important to have it on the frame as the tub is in one piece. Lomar15 has done some extentive bodywork. maybe looking at his photo album will give you some ideas if it gets that involved.
I really respect the amount of thought and great work he has done. Not many have starterd with a rougher body
CJ2A #10021 #34692 #58500



Back to Top
jeepermat View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 18 Aug. 2007
Location: Dubuque, Iowa
Status: Offline
Points: 164
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepermat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2007 at 9:59pm
http://picasaweb.google.com/lomar15CJ2A

That was very impressive! Very nice work Lomar15, I dont think I have the patience for all that, but my body isnt nearly that bad. I have a sandblaster so I am going to blast it anyway, I just hate the mess it makes.

For the flat panels I will probably just weld in new sheet metal, but the curved section aroun the fender I will look for replacement panels. Any recomendations on who to buy from?

Thanks

Back to Top
jeepermat View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 18 Aug. 2007
Location: Dubuque, Iowa
Status: Offline
Points: 164
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepermat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2007 at 10:12pm
ALright I just found this
Looks pretty easy, to me definatley worth the money. I ordered some of the side steps that were Omix-ada and wasnt too impressed with the quality, any word on these? Are there any other brands?
 
Thanks!
Back to Top
bkreutz View Drop Down
Member
Member

Sponsor Member

Joined: 17 Oct. 2006
Location: Fruitland Idaho
Status: Offline
Points: 7037
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkreutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2007 at 10:24pm
I used parts from Classic enterprises ( http://www.classicent.com ) (still can't get a clickable link to work, sorry) They're US made, I've had good luck with the panels I used (floor channels and a rear floor) I have no experience with the exterior panels, I agree with your idea about making the flat panels out of sheet stock and buying the curved parts, they would be very difficult to make without a lot of fabricating tools. 
Gale

47 CJ2A 142857
47 Bantam T3-C 16271


Photo page http://bkreutz.smugmug.com/
Back to Top
m38mike View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Apr. 2007
Location: Colorado High Country
Status: Offline
Points: 3798
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2007 at 11:29pm
Jeepermat and Pat T.,

If I was you, I'd send Lomar15 an email and ask him about hat channels for your tub.  He made a set for me, and they were spot-on matches to the ones on the tub, only without the rust!   He really does do great work.  I'd buy parts from him again anytime.  Just thought you should know.
M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A
4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw
51 M38 Green Jeanne
52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale
52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box
Back to Top
CJ2aAl View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Sep. 2006
Location: south Jersey
Status: Offline
Points: 902
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJ2aAl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2007 at 1:18am
I second m38mike on Lomar15's hat channels.
I too got a set. Great work.
1948 CJ2a #196169

1995 YJ
1997 ZJ
2001 WJ
Back to Top
gixxerman View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 22 Oct. 2007
Location: Lynchburg VA
Status: Offline
Points: 33
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gixxerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2007 at 5:47am
3M mmakes a good weld through primer if you deside to blast it first.
99 xj,47 cj2a
Back to Top
Lomar15 View Drop Down
Member
Member

Sponsor Member

Joined: 01 Jan. 2006
Location: Fanny Bay, B.C. Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 1226
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lomar15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2007 at 6:32am
Wow, thanks guys, for all the good words.  I missed this post last week, just read it now.  Jeepermat,   your body looks great to me.  I would patch the rust holes, its not all that hard to do, mig welder works great, but a stick welder will work just as good. I would invest in a good body hammer and dolly, you would be amazed at how smooth you can get the panels in just a few minutes of hammering. At the least you will get the body filler needed,  to a minimum.  Eastwood has some nice body hammer kits for reasonable prices. 
 
Bob
46 CJ2A #48777
42 MB Slat Grill 119898 Frame
51 M38 Body
42 MB #155950
Spen Trailer

http://picasaweb.google.com/lomar15CJ2A
Back to Top
Scott R View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 16 Mar. 2007
Location: Gaines, MI
Status: Offline
Points: 1392
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2007 at 2:37pm

M38Mike, great idea about using copper behind the seam to keep from burning thru. Thumbs%20Up

I’ve used a copper backer to fill holes before but never considered using it the way you do. That just might be the trick that will let me do sheet metal work with my stick welder.
Michigan Flat Fender Club on Facebook

1949 CJ2A #221621

1965 CJ-5
Back to Top
m38mike View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Apr. 2007
Location: Colorado High Country
Status: Offline
Points: 3798
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2007 at 3:39pm

Scott R, I'm curious what rod you're using and what settings for using a stick welder on sheetmetal.  I've never had good success with my AC arc machine.  Even using very thin rod, I just seem to burn thru.  I've tried 7018, and 6011 rod but it just seems too hot.  I'm using a Millermatic 130 wire feed with gas and getting good welds, but even set on power 2, I can burn thru the 18 ga sheet so I use the copper backplate to keep the heat in place and control the wire from going thru.  That backplate really helps this amateur.  I hope it works for you.

Jeepermat, Lomar15's words are true.  A little work with a hammer and molly could save you lots of work replacing body parts.  The 18 ga sheetmetal responds easily to reshaping.  It's worth a try, and the tools are inexpensive to help you do a great job.  I'd consider it.

 

M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A
4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw
51 M38 Green Jeanne
52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale
52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box
Back to Top
TERRY View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 22 May 2007
Location: BOULDER COLORADO
Status: Offline
Points: 3400
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2007 at 4:16pm
Try www.classicent.com/index.php  for classic enterprises. This url works for me.
Terry
BOULDER 48 2A
Back to Top
Longhunter View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 13 Dec. 2006
Location: Meridian, MS
Status: Offline
Points: 2171
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Longhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2007 at 7:49pm
I don't know for sure but everyone on the "G" swears that there is only one US manufacturer of body panels and that is:
 
 
They say everything else, no matter who you buy from, is made by MD Juan.
I plan to give Jeepanelsplus a shot when I start my '48.
 
Just my $.02.
 
PS
Terry,
I checked out your link and this site does stress that their body parts are US manufactured.
 
 
I may have to consider their panels also when the need arises.


Edited by Longhunter - 29 Nov. 2007 at 8:01pm
Mike in Mississippi
2006 Jeep Rubicon
1946 CJ2a #49667
1946 Bantam T3-C #7909
1 UNDERSTANDING Wife

"2 wrongs don't make a right but 3 rights will make a left".... Gallagher
Back to Top
bkreutz View Drop Down
Member
Member

Sponsor Member

Joined: 17 Oct. 2006
Location: Fruitland Idaho
Status: Offline
Points: 7037
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkreutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2007 at 9:25pm
I was pretty happy with classic, they worked with me on making seat back skins and I like their freight policy, it's a percentage of the cost (I think 10%) regardless of the size of the part, oversize freight can be a killer.
Gale

47 CJ2A 142857
47 Bantam T3-C 16271


Photo page http://bkreutz.smugmug.com/
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2022 Web Wiz Ltd.