Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Tech Questions and Answers
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Front Wheel Drive Shift Rod stuck?
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Front Wheel Drive Shift Rod stuck?

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
FrankD90 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Nov. 2016
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
Points: 65
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankD90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Front Wheel Drive Shift Rod stuck?
    Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 6:12pm
I'm trying to remove the Output shaft bearing cap, but it seems that my fwd shift rod is not sliding out of it. Should I just pry it off with force? Or am I forgetting a component? I've looked at my manual and the online manuals with no luck. 

Back to Top
smfulle View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 16 Sep. 2010
Location: Ogden, Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 6141
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 7:14pm
It's been a minute since I did this, but doesn't the shift rod stay in the bearing cap when you pull the cap off?  Here's a quote from Novak's rebuild guide.

"Remove the five bolts holding the front output bearing cap to the case. Tap the cap with a soft hammer to break it loose and remove it as an assembly with the shaft, shifter clutch, shifter fork and shift rod. Be careful not to lose the little bullet-shaped interlock that "floats" in the passage between the shift rods. The front bearing cap assembly does not usually require disassembly unless the Jeep has been used very hard in 4WD (such as plowing snow) or has not been equipped with free-wheeling hubs. If the shifter shaft seals are to be replaced, the cap must be disassembled to remove the seals. To do this, loosen the set screw on the shift fork and remove the fork, shifter clutch, and shift rod. Remove the snap ring from the housing and remove the bearing and front output shaft."
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
Back to Top
FrankD90 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Nov. 2016
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
Points: 65
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankD90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 9:22pm
I believe that's the under drive shift rod? Which seems to want to come out with the cap. It's the longer shift rod that isn't budging out of the cap.
Back to Top
tamnalan View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 08 Oct. 2013
Location: Port Orford, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 989
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 9:24pm
You took the interlock pill out?
Alan Johnson
1942 MB - "TBD"
1943 MB - "Lt Bob"
1950 cj3a
M-100 x2
teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740
Back to Top
FrankD90 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Nov. 2016
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
Points: 65
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankD90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 9:40pm
Apparently not. I got the Poppet plug, springs and balls out. Shouldnt the pill drop out?
Back to Top
athawk11 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 18 Jan. 2012
Location: Arvada,Colorado
Status: Offline
Points: 4151
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 9:51pm

I’m sorry.  I tried to point you in the right direction on your other post.  You cannot force this apart.

 You need to push the assembly back together, shift the transfer case into 4 wheel drive High, then you will be able to pull the bearing cap off.  The long shift rod will stay with the bearing cap.

The pill doesn't need to come out yet.  

You MUST do Step D15 before the cap will come off.


D15. Shift the front wheel drive shift lever shaft into the engaged position. That will be all the way forward.

D16. Remove the front bearing cap:

D16a. Remove the lock-wire from the five bolts

D16b. Remove the bolts holding the front bearing cap in place.

D16c. Remove the entire assemble as a unit. Note: The High/Low shift rod will stay in the main case.

D16d. Tilt the bearing cap onto the side the high/low shift rod was removed from and remove the interlock pin. Note the position of this pin between the two shift rods. It prevents the t-case from being shifted into two-wheel low. The idea behind this was to prevent too much power being applied to the rear drive train. Many people elect to remove the interlock pin to obtain this function.

1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
Back to Top
FrankD90 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Nov. 2016
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
Points: 65
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankD90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2017 at 1:26am
I've done that but it's still stuck!
Back to Top
athawk11 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 18 Jan. 2012
Location: Arvada,Colorado
Status: Offline
Points: 4151
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2017 at 2:06am
Are you sure you've shifted it in the right direction?

Imagine the TC installed in the Willys. You move the closet shift lever to the driver, toward the floor. This will move the shift rail outward away from the bearing cap housing. If in the correct position, length wise, the two rails will be close to even with each other.
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
Back to Top
FrankD90 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Nov. 2016
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
Points: 65
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankD90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2017 at 9:35pm
That was my issue with mine, that shift rod is what was stuck. I can't unstick it. 
Back to Top
FrankD90 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Nov. 2016
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
Points: 65
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankD90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2017 at 6:49pm
So I think I understand the problem, everyone has told me to first shift the transfer case into neutral before disassembly, but the reason I even took it apart was because it was seized. So I need to somehow shift the case into neutral by hand.

Does anyone know what else I can do?
Back to Top
athawk11 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 18 Jan. 2012
Location: Arvada,Colorado
Status: Offline
Points: 4151
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar. 2017 at 1:38am
It doesn't need to be shifted to neutral. It needs to be shifted to 4-wheel-drive-high. There is no neutral on this shift rod. You are either in 4 wheel drive high, or you're in 2 wheel drive high.

Your original picture shows a nice oily gear case. I can't imagine the front output clutch gear is seized, but never say never. This clutch gear is inside the front bearing cap. It engages and disengages the front output shaft, which drives the front axle. If you are not in 4-wheel-drive, the front splined output shaft should turn freely with very little effort. Does it? To test, you might have to push the bearing cap back in place.

If it turns freely, move the output shaft a little to align the gears while trying to shift the case into 4 wheel drive high. If it works, you should now be able to pull the front bearing cap.

If the shaft doesn't turn easily, then it's either already engaged, or it's seized up. You could try vice gripping the end of a the slide rail and smacking the vice grip with a hammer. This might 'shock' the clutch gear enough to get it moving. Work it in and out, if possible, to free it up.

I had a case that was so corroded and rusty that there was nothing else I could do but to cut the rail to get the front bearing cap off. This was a "last resort" step for me. If you decide you need to do this, track down a replacement rail first. As far as I know, nobody is making a reproduction rail for the Dana-18 transfer case, but I'm guessing that someone here would have one that they are willing to part with.

Maybe others will chime in on this. Perhaps I'm missing something simple. My memory is decent, but it has been a while since I fought this fight.
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
Back to Top
FrankD90 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Nov. 2016
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
Points: 65
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankD90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar. 2017 at 4:04am
Thank you for the reply! I think I've pin-pointed the issue, it seems in addition to the hi-low shift rod being seized, the front bearing cap is caught on what I believe is the "shift rod interlock". I can't move the shift rod to free or "drop the interlock" as others have said to do on other forums.


Back to Top
FrankD90 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Nov. 2016
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
Points: 65
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankD90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 11:55pm
I'm left with no choice but I think to "Cut" my shift rod...Anyone have any other suggestions?
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2022 Web Wiz Ltd.