"Improved" CJ2A Canvas Top

I am in the beginning stage of creating an “improved” CJ2A top with a historical flair.   It will be a combination of the best of the historical CJ2A top, the Early Land Rover top and modern fasteners.  This top will be designed to be used on a CJ2A with stock bows.   

JPet and I have been going back and forth on this and he has persuaded me to post this in the hopes that it may be of value to others creating tops in the future.

Materials:  On hand I have a 1946 CJ2A w/ top bows & door frames (3A type frames), canvas (Mil Spec .037 thick olive drab), 90+ yards of edge binding in various widths, 20 plus WW2 straps with buckles and ends, window material, Velcro, black thread and the 1939 Singer 111-152.

These are my design parameters in order of importance:

1.            Function – foul weather while off-roading and plowing

2.            Historical feel – materials and style base design 20-foot look

3.            Practical for use in the field.

4.            Easy access to inside of the rear.

5.            Ease of installation.

Things that I want to avoid when making a top:

1.            Turn style fasteners that attach to the canvas.  I am OK with the turn style fasteners that screw into the windshield.  But want to avoid the ones that are mounted into the canvas.  Where possible I would like to use Velcro or WW2 style straps instead.  Velcro will be versatile as the canvas changes with age and weather.

2.            The two-piece roof looks great and does not leak according to those with experience with them, But I want a single section full roof without the inner half top flap on the inside behind the seats.

Things that I want to design into the top:

1.            Stock looking Doors from the outside.

2.            Drivers door with a hand signal zipper with a storm flap.

3.            Doors to have Velcro instead of turn buckles at the windshield arm pivot and not the twist fasteners.

4.            Single piece roof.  Seamed down the middle.

5.            Side curtains that are sewn on to the roof (similar the early Land Rovers).

6.            Side curtains that roll up for access while the back is still in the down position.

7.            Side curtains and rear curtains that can be rolled and buckled in the up position.

8.            Straps to hold the rolled curtains in the up position - sewn into the top so they are not seen from the outside unless they are in use.  The plan is to make the roof and side curtains overlap about 2 inches and create a slot between the curtain and top that the strap can poke through when they are being used to hold the rolled curtains up.

9.            Rear curtain will look like a stock CJ2A but with several changes: The rear corners will use the style of closure used on the early 1950 Land Rovers with a tuck tab to join the side curtains to the rear curtain at the corner.  The tuck tabs will use Velcro and not a buckle like the Rover top.  Unlike the Rover the tuck tab corner pocket, the pocket to be sewn on the inside of the side flap making them invisible from the outside.  The rear curtain will use the WW2 straps w/ buckles like the standard CJ2A top – to attach the bottom along the rear of the tub.

10.          Add storm flaps along the doors and where the top joins to the side and back of tub (still need to design these).  I am considering using a 5” piece of canvas folded in half with a piece of ¼” rope sewed into the fold to create a bead.  Then sew the now 2.5” rope bead on the inside of the top and doors where so it rests on the tub with about a 2-inch storm flap.  The flap can be pulled in over the edge of the tub to create a good seal for blowing snow or it can be left just hanging straight down for light weather use.  In the hanging straight down position the rope bead will be about 1/2 inches above the bottom edge binding.

11.          Considering mounting the side curtain bottom buckles on the outside like WW2 MB curtain for access reasons (CJ2A are mounted on the inside).  Still undecided – if they are on the inside they could be hard to get to from the outside and they would interfere with the storm flaps.  If they are on the outside they will be subject to the weather and getting caught on brush.

12.          Still need to design the rear curtain - the 1946 trail Jeep has a water can and a tire mounted on the back – so a zippered arch window like the CJ2A style might make for better access without deal with the straps around the rear mounted gear.  JPet has cautioned me on the shrinkage I may encounter on the canvas and its potential problems with the zipper.

13.          Door windows are a stock triangle design.  Side and rear window based on usability and historical design.  Temped to make them a little larger than the stock gun port armored car window look.