It was a barn find in Maple Ridge

I've been using 16 gauge. I have a bunch of pictures of various patches I've done including how I formed the rear quarter panels in my thread.

I was using 18ga on the two side panel patches that you see but for the floor I used 16ga

4 parts water to 1 part molasses, now just be aware it will get a little stinky as it ferments, I have a small tent outside that I set up for this, and I used a under bed storage bin with a lid from Ikea, the bin was just right for the rims.
Something to be carful of is don't soak non Ferris metal parts in the molasses it will dissolve them very quickly
Now for cutting the sheet metal and cutting the patches I use what is called a zip disk,
I will take the time to mark out the part to be removed with a pencil this way if I don't like how it looks or I want to change its easy to do, now after I have cut out the part to be replaced I will use it to trace out a patch slightly larger then trim to fit so I can get the proper gap all around the patch for a good weld, this is where the butt weld clamps come in handy,
Before you weld in your new patch be sure to clean the metal really well or the weld will have porosity or a lot of spatter, the cleaner the metal the cleaner the weld
One of the things I do is use a sheet metal gauge when in doubt on the thickness of the metal and I have found there is some variation in sheet metal, there is also a difference in hot rolled and cold rolled metal, at this time I have been using cold rolled for my patch pannels

Edited by shadow - 04 Mar. 2017 at 3:37am

Hey Shadow.  Thanks for all the information you are sharing with us.  I am using your technique as far as spot welding the new pieces in and then letting it cool before I go back and fill in between the spot welds.  I am teaching myself  how to weld too.  I am learning a lot from your post.  Thanks again.

Hey McG,  

Andy - keep the pics coming .. they are a great help for me as I prepare for this part of the project .. still a ways off, but I'm "learning" (I hope) as I read...

A few years ago I did the rust work on the 3B, Measure up the patch and clamp it to the body. Scribe around the edges and cut to the lines with a cut off wheel in a right angle grinder. Clean up the area and weld. There is a bit more involved to finish things but that's how I got things to fit. Including the round pieces on the rear corners.
Just don't put your hand on the place you just welded.

Hey Shadow    I just did the same basic repair to my Willys today.  I spot welded it just like you did and it worked out pretty good. Then went back and welded the whole piece in. The tips you gave me earlier really helped me out a good bit. 

Hey Shadow,   I do not have a post or a build thread.  Not sure how to do it.  I take pictures with a digital camera.