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Make Your Own Canvas Top
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LesBerg View Drop Down
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Points: 1554 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2016 at 4:47am
Somehow, my previous post didn't make it in...
 
I posted that I was looking for the dimensions for the windows in the doors...
Bretto, there's an update in my build thread, close to the bottom of page 8:
 
 
I think I have it. Looking at the picture of the inside of the door on page 6, the rear and bottom of the window are in line with the zippered flap. With the top nearly abutting the upper flap, it's pretty easy to work out the window.
 
Thanks for taking (and posting!) great pictures!
 
UPDATE:
I think we determined that my door frames are from a 3B, and the 2A window is significantly smaller. Mine will be the same style, but slightly different proportions. 


Edited by LesBerg - 18 Jan. 2016 at 4:58pm
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Wow, inspiring! Might give this s a go.
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Points: 17 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wirework Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2016 at 8:38pm
I'm starting a top project for my cj5 and I see you offered CAD drawings I could start with and modify for my cj5. I'll share them with you if interested.

Is the cad drawing offer still good. I could also buy full size prints if you are unwilling to share the cad files but the cad files are obviously infinitely more useful for my project.

Thanks
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Points: 11173 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2016 at 9:19pm
Here is a link to a dropbox folder:


... in there you will find all the CAD drawings.   Again, I stress, don't just take these patterns and start cutting fabric.  Use them as examples.  Cut the fabric to fit the geometry of your jeep and bows.

An original style CJ5 top is way simpler than the 10 piece early style CJ2A top.
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Points: 17 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wirework Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2016 at 4:40am
Thanks for the link.

I'm doing military theme but using the same bow format as your pattern. I very much like what you have accomplished and hoped to emulate your style.
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Points: 17 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wirework Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2016 at 12:13am
Two questions occurred to me as I prepare to emulate your cj2 canvas top design for my 1969 US NAVY theme CJ5...

(1) I wondered if using a double layer of canvas everywhere might offer some additional sound/temperature insulation. I would of course not need to then add again the specified reinforcement at all the attachment points. I do wonder if moisture might be trapped and create mold/mildew problems... Hmmmmmm... Any thoughts/considerations about my doing this? Has anyone else tried this?

(2) I have access to waterproof duck cloth thicker than 18oz. Since I'm a cj5, obviously I'm going for style more than authenticity. Do you see any issues using that heavier material if I do my reinforcement with something thinner (and perhaps stronger)? Again, has anyone tried this?

Thanks in advance.
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Points: 11173 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2016 at 1:02am
the Jeep makes more noise than the outside surroundings so the canopy traps noise inside the cab much more than it keeps sounds out. For this reason, I don't believe a double layer of fabric would help with acoustics inside the cab and if anything would be detrimental. If your Jeep is anything like mine, you will get much more cold air from the gaps in the canopy or holes in the firewall that would make the fabrics insulation insignificant but I don't have any data. I'm just guessing. Would a double layer trap moisture? Probably. Would it be significant?.... Probably not. Again. No data.

One thing I would make sure is that the fabric you use complies to some mil-specs. Here is some info:

http://thecj2apage.com/forums/improved-cj2a-canvas-top_topic38800_post367294.html#367294
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Points: 17 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wirework Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2016 at 5:43am
Thanks for the quick reply.

Would you be concerned if the available fabric were #7 canvas duck if reinforced with something lighter where needed?

Thanks again.
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Points: 11173 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2016 at 11:09am
#7 simply means that there are 7 plies to each yarn. What is the weight of the fabric? I use 18 oz per linear yard simply because it is the preferred fabric by the popular top makers like New Life, Beachwood, odcloth.com, etc. I like a heavy fabric because it does not flop in the wind so much. I have seen original tops made of all different weight fabric. Usually the fabric is doubled only in the areas where a fastener or strap is attached but I suppose there is no rule against it.
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Points: 17 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wirework Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2016 at 3:43pm
Oh, boy. this gets confusing. Per
Numbered Ducks vs. Single Fill Ducks

Numbered Ducks:

"Named Numbered Ducks for the "#" like weave structure which is known as "double fill" or "plied yarn". Numbered ducks are identified by the "#" sign in front of a number from 1 to 12. This plied yarn weave makes for a tighter and stronger weave construction over single fill ducks and are used for more rugged outdoor or industrial applications.

Numbered ducks will vary in weight from mill to mill and there is no real universal standard weight for each number. We have included our ounce weight per square yard in our product descriptions to lessen the confusion.

#12 is our lightest weight numbered duck at 11.5 oz per square yard and #1 is the heaviest at 30 oz."

...so I simply interpreted "#7 Military cotton duck" as a bit heavier than #8.
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Points: 17 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wirework Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2016 at 3:46pm
Just checked. MILSPEC #7 20oz. 'Checking on "which MILSPEC, and actual vs nominal width... I figure that if 60 nominal is actually 58-59, then it was likely pre shrunk (?).
Thanks for your help.
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Points: 11173 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2016 at 6:06pm
Originally posted by Wirework Wirework wrote:

...so I simply interpreted "#7 Military cotton duck" as a bit heavier than #8.
Typically but not necessarily. Weights are tricky cuz different mills interpret it differently. (As you have read). Most of the info I'm giving you is simply googling the internet machine. That's why I stick with mil-spec #8 cotton duck 18 oz. I know I'm safe. Mil-spec is preshrunk. If you read my earlier links it is all explained.
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Points: 17 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wirework Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2016 at 9:14pm
Ok, gotcha.

Final question for now... the 20 oz "MILSPEC" OD material is still possible (if con firmed MILSPEC preshrunk). Do you see any negatives with my perhaps using all one size (larger) twist fasteners? I see they are available most economically in 100 piece lots.

Thanks
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Points: 11173 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2016 at 3:31am
Originally posted by Wirework Wirework wrote:

... Do you see any negatives with my perhaps using all one size (larger) twist fasteners? .....
I don't understand. Which fasteners? Got an example?
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Points: 17 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wirework Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2016 at 4:05am
Sorry, I couldn't remember what you called them when I last posted.

You see now you called them C/S fasteners. You said two heights were typically used (depending on the location); more short than tall. I'm wondering if you think I can use just the taller one everywhere with the 20 oz duck (also using 20 oz as reinforcement layer.)

PS. what does C/S mean.

Thanks.
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C/S stands for Common Sense

The double tall turn buttons are only necessary when you are going through two grommets, i.e. sandwiching two panels.

Stick with the single tall turn buttons.
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Points: 17 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wirework Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2016 at 5:35am
Roger.

Thanks again for the help.

Please come visit my "MD Juan tub kit 1969 cj5" build on earlycj5.com; It will be a while, but I'll credit you guys when I get to the soft top ...(if I don't screw it up!)
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Points: 1521 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 June 2018 at 10:17pm
I got my top from Jpet. Its very nice! I worked the last 2 days gettting the bows fitted. Im digging it!
Whats the trick to getting the front portion of the roof tight? Ive been wetting it and leaving it in the sun. Any other tips? 
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