Rebuild of J176350

Ditto on the Permatex #2 for head stud threads.  Seals them nicely.  A couple of other suggestions:

I have to admit I'm not completely sure what type of product Permatex #2 is. Does this come in a toothpaste type tube or the little can with a brush inside? I have a tube of Three Bond liquid gasket 1104 that I've used for many things successfully, maybe it's similar?

I'm planning on picking up the engine tomorrow, which is also payday. I'll probably just hand the check over to them!

From the bill:

 

Bore 4 cyls to 0.060”  $100

Install 2 sleeves            240

Install cam brng            30

Install casting plugs      30

Re-size con rods           72

Grind valve seats          80

Install valve guides       32

Deck block                    80

Machine manifolds       35

Machine flywheel         35

Magnaflux                    20

Clean block                   75

Dis/asmb eng                40

Stitch block                   60

Remove oil plug           30

Grind crank                   130

Valve guides                 20

Sleeves                          76

Casting plugs                20

Misc supplies                30

Engine kit                     325

                                    $1580

 

I see they only charged me for 4 guides and installation of 4 so maybe they forgot or they were serviceable. They only informed me of the sleeve needed for cyl #4 and now sleeves are in both #3 and 4. The stitching is between those cylinders so maybe it was an issue with the cracking.

 

The head had been surfaced two years ago and I elected to re-run the camshaft and followers. Same with the oil pump and the timing gears. I carefully measured the parts and they were within spec. This engine had been rebuilt in the past and some parts looked just fine. The jeep only gets driven about 300 miles a year, it should last forever now.

 

How do these prices compare to other parts of the country? Did I get hosed? The “engine kit” contained 4 pistons, main and rod bearings, rings, cam bearing and a gasket kit.

Are you going to have it balanced? In my opinion it's money well spent. They run so much smoother.

That overall bill seems about right to me, at least for similar work where I live in Ohio.

Joe DeYoung wrote: Are you going to have it balanced? In my opinion it's money well spent. They run so much smoother.

otto wrote: WeeWilly wrote: My thought is why not sleeve all the cylinders and keep them standard size instead of installing 2 sleeves and boring them .060 over which is about the limit and restricts you from future boring if ever needed. Their prices seem fair for the parts and labor.    Jim   The only reason the block got sleeves was because of cracks. I suppose one could sleeve it down to a standard bore, but that would have cost $158 per hole to do so opposed to $25 to bore. I'm comfortable with it being 0.060" over; I've heard of these engines going to 0.080".

Edited by mbullism - 18 Apr. 2017 at 3:38pm

The sleeving took place after all cylinders were bored and honed and the cracks presented themselves. I see your point about bringing it back to std bore, but it's spilled milk now.


Got the valvetrain in and lashed the valves to a tight 0.016" as per the manual, which seems a bit loose to me.

I took the sheet metal cover off the floating oil pickup to clean the screen and forgot how it was oriented. Does the inlet portion face the pivot or is away from the pivot?