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The Resurrection of CJ2-26

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Fred Coldwell View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred Coldwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2017 at 10:47pm
Converted Oil Bath Air Cleaner to Paper Element Air Cleaner

Here are the materials I used to modify the Oakes No. 613300 oil bath air cleaner in CJ2-26 into a paper filter element air cleaner:

1. One (1) NAPA GOLD air filter #2036 @ $8.49 (or equivalent).
2. Two (2) sponge gaskets for wall hung toilet 5-3/8" OD x 3-1/2" ID x 3/4" thick @ $5.27 + shipping from http://www.plumbingsupply.com.

as seen here:

Image

Here they are assembled right side up:

Image

After the internal oil bath filter screen is removed and the air cleaner and bottom cup are cleaned and dried, turn the air cleaner upside down for assembly and place one ring in the top of the air cleaner. Insert the air filter and center it on that ring. Place the other ring in the bottom of the bottom cup and center the bottom cup on the upside down air filter. There is about 1/2 inch of available compression before the two clamps are positioned to hold the bottom cup in place, as seen here:

Image

Shaking the air cleaner after the clamps have been tightened suggests there is enough clamping force to prevent the paper air filter from moving. But if you want a bit more clamping force, cut a disc of suitable material having a suitable thickness with an Outside Diameter (OD) of 5-3/8" and place it in the bottom of the bottom cup before inserting the foam gasket in that cup.

After the air filter is installed in your jeep, you should be able to change the paper air filter element by simply unclamping to bottom cup, removing the old element and installing a new paper element in its place. Now CJ2-26 is prepared to joyfully ride all those dusty jeep trails found out here in the Wild West. Yee-Haw!
Happy Jeep Trails,


Fred Coldwell
Denver, CO
1944 CJ2-09 - X-33
1945 CJ2-26 - X-50

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 12:00am
Thanks for all your answers and obvious work and thought.  My mind is now satisfied you tried. Clap The thing about  Fred as a X man, is that he doesn't hold back and drives the heck out of them when done. I'm all for driving them. To what extent, I'm afraid I'd have to pass on Chinaman's Gulch if it were mine. I do understand the meaning of the answer to the question: Why are you driving that rare piece of history?  The answer is: Who are you saving it for? It's yours, so drive it! You make me smile Fred! Oilly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 12:35am
Hi Fred,

Very cool project. I guess I better get busy with my contribution to the build

I have Todd's 3D scans of the JEEP stamp but I'm having trouble converting them to a file that I can get measurements off of. If anyone is following this thread has software for converting .stl files to a CAD format that I can measure from, I could use some help.

Originally posted by Joe Friday Joe Friday wrote:

Your tailgate question might be answered here:


Hi Keith,
Do you have, or know who has a flat scan of these drawings that I can scale and get measurements from? This would be a HUGE help to me!

Looking forward to this very cool build! Hope I get to do the canvas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Todd Paisley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 12:42am
Jeff,
 
I can send you a flat scan of the original.  It doesn't have dimensions for the JEEP stamping though.  it will just be a flatter version of what Keith sent.
Todd Paisley

1941 MB-100063 - MB Factory Test Mule
1942 MB-123136 - Earliest Documented "Civilian" Test Jeep
1944 CJ2-12 - X36
1944 CJ2-16 - X40
1945 CJ2-37 - X61
1945 CJ2A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 1:44am
Yes. Is it the whole drawing? I need a dimension or something that I can reference for scale. Thx.

edit: got the drawing. Thx!

Edited by jpet - 26 Feb. 2017 at 1:49am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred Coldwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2017 at 2:54am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

Hi Fred, Very cool project. I guess I better get busy with my contribution to the build Looking forward to this very cool build!
  Hi Jeff: Welcome aboard! Good to see you following this thread, it should be a very fun project. 
 
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

Hope I get to do the canvas
For sure! I already have the top bows for #26 that Lowenuff made a few years ago, along with the plexiglass window and door metal frames that I think you might have made. Anyway, those parts are patiently standing by, waiting to be called up by the Canvas Corps after the body has been installed. Smile

If you still have the plaster-of-paris casting I sent you of the JEEP stamping, you might use that to take rough measurements of the overall size of that stamping. Or you might be able to scale it from Todd's drawing using the overall height and width of the tailgate I sent you as reference points.  I'm sure you will figure it out, but if you need any further measurements, just ask.  


Edited by Fred Coldwell - 26 Feb. 2017 at 2:59am
Happy Jeep Trails,


Fred Coldwell
Denver, CO
1944 CJ2-09 - X-33
1945 CJ2-26 - X-50

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2017 at 11:07pm
Fred / Todd,

I was able to do some research on the "JEEP" stamp using Fred's castings and Todd's 3D scans:







I was able to do some work with Todd's 3D scans:



This is a sectional view of the tines on the "E":



..... and this is the sectional view of the larger radii through "EEP"



The CAD drawings, accent the inconsistencies in the stamping. For example, Pictures 3 and 6 show the larger vertical radii of both samples. The "J", "P", and possible one "E" from Fred's samples appear to be about 3/8" ... but the other "E" actually appears to be flat on top with 7/32" radii along the edges. Todd's scan (pic 6) shows the profile to be teardrop shaped with a 7/32" radius on one edge. The smaller horizontal running radii, such as the tines on the "E" are 7/32" on Fred's sample (pic 1). The middle tine (pic 2)looks to be 7/32" but it is not as deep. Todd's sample, (pic 5), is very inconsistent.

I really don't know how these dies were made back then but by judging the teardrop radii, the inconsistencies, and the fact that these are prototype jeeps, My guess is that this was a single hammer form type die. I'm still thinking on it but I am leaning towards making the female side of this die with a 7/16" ball endmill. I would profile the larger radii to approximately a 3/8" radius. The middle tine on the "E" I could make with a 1/2" ball endmill. I'll probably start by making a stamp for one letter and if it looks right, finish the die.

Edited by jpet - 13 Mar. 2017 at 11:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Todd Paisley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 12:20am
Hi Jeff.  Cool.  I did notice on the windshield for CJ2-37 that the letters were not consistent like you saw.  It did make me wonder how they stamped them!  The scan also was done with the paint on.  I didn't have the heart to sandblast it to bare metal.  (I am leaning toward figuring out how to remove the green paint to keep the original paint intact.)  What you could do is possibly do a letter and Fred and I can compare how well it looks by photographing it next to the original.
 
Nice job so far!
Todd Paisley

1941 MB-100063 - MB Factory Test Mule
1942 MB-123136 - Earliest Documented "Civilian" Test Jeep
1944 CJ2-12 - X36
1944 CJ2-16 - X40
1945 CJ2-37 - X61
1945 CJ2A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 1:50am
These are not to scale, but it is an example of how to make the die with a 7/16" endmill and 3/8" endmill for the center tine.



I will probably try something like this just to see how the actual radii turn out.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 2:11am
You are obsessed but I spent half of a day welding up all of the holes in my 3B tailgate and about another 3 days grinding and sanding the profiles of the letters back to shape. (8 holes through it). Not perfect but you can't see it anyway because of the spare tire carrier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Todd Paisley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 3:20am
Hi Jeff.  I don't think the E is shaped like that.  The transition between the center bar of the E to the vertical line on the left side is more blended.  Take a look at this:
 
 
Todd Paisley

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 8:20am
Continuing on early CJs, I was sent a photo of an engine stamped X19 a year or so ago, somehow made its way to NZ.

Make any sense to anyone?

Adrian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 9:22am
Originally posted by Todd Paisley Todd Paisley wrote:

.....  I don't think the E is shaped like that.  The transition between the center bar of the E to the vertical line on the left side is more blended. ...
Yes, I agree. All of those corners will have to be interpolated with the tool. I was just trying to show you a concept

In that pic, it looks like your left "E" is shaped different than your right "E" which is why I believe the letters were hammer formed.   I think Fred's letters are a little different than yours. I'll put your pic in CAD when I get a chance and compare.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 10:57am
I know this has nothing to do with the jeep, but your power wagon is awesome!  Does that have a closed knuckle dana 70 front?  Oh yeah and nice jeep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 11:26am
Amazing that the "J" has a fancy rounded beginning which is expanded from the main stalk. What I was wondering is: are all 4 "JEEP" stampings the same or are each different from each other? From the pictures of the existing 3 vehicles, only one has a original tailgate. Is it different again? Also, when you say they were hammer formed, is that with a actual hammer by hand or a special forming tool like a press? In other words how did they originally do this? Thank, John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Todd Paisley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 12:15pm
Al sent me photos of the engine that has X19 stamped into it.  I am not sure what to make of that.  I tried to buy it years ago.  What would be nice would be to see what the engine assembly date would be.
Todd Paisley

1941 MB-100063 - MB Factory Test Mule
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1944 CJ2-12 - X36
1944 CJ2-16 - X40
1945 CJ2-37 - X61
1945 CJ2A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 12:27pm
Originally posted by Oilleaker1 Oilleaker1 wrote:

..... Also, when you say they were hammer formed, is that with a actual hammer by hand or a special forming tool like a press? In other words how did they originally do this? Thank, John
I mean, I think the female part of the die was made, like the "E" die that I showed, and then the letters were formed using some sort of curved tool and hammer to "hammer" the metal down into the letters. Kind of the way Brian Hainer forms the tool indents in his side panels.

I really don't know how they are made. I'm just trying to think how a die could be made using the technology available back then. ......



..... referring back to this 3D scan of Todd's. These are the three tines in one of the Es. All three have different radii and they don't even match the other E. Why would the engineer go to so much trouble to make so many different dimensions on a prototype? The female part of the die would be relatively easy to make for them and for me. The male part would be quite difficult as this would require the mill to make 3 axis interpolation. We do not have this ability other than to calculate these interpolations manually. Example:

The larger vertical radii are somewhere around 3/8" but this can't be done with a 3/4" ball end mill because the ends of the slot have a 3/16" or 7/32" radius. My guess would be that they were made with a 3/8" or 7/16" ball emdmill and the tool was offset a few times to make the slot wider. When the sheet metal was hammered or pressed into the die, it was not completely crushed into every nick and cranny of the die which results in a 3/8" ish radius of inconsistency. That's my thought.

Edited by jpet - 14 Mar. 2017 at 12:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Todd Paisley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2017 at 12:40pm
Jeff,
 
The photo I sent you is Fred's.  So it should match the mold you have.  Here is Fred's (CJ2-26) compared with the scan from CJ2-37:
 
 
I think what you need to do is smooth out the corners between the horizontal and vertical components of the "E".
 
 
 
I Just think your bottom and top horizontal lines of the E are a little too big. Thin those out and make a more rounded transition between the horizontal and vertical lines, then I think you got it!
Todd Paisley

1941 MB-100063 - MB Factory Test Mule
1942 MB-123136 - Earliest Documented "Civilian" Test Jeep
1944 CJ2-12 - X36
1944 CJ2-16 - X40
1945 CJ2-37 - X61
1945 CJ2A
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