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Walcks temp gauge/probe

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JeepSaffer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2017 at 6:06am
I'm not saying it's going to be easy, but with the interface at the threads being brass to cast iron, and not steel to cast iron, I'm hoping the rust won't have taken hold in the same way.

I'll keep you updated.
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2017 at 6:36am
I'm picturing the brass crumbling where you try to grab it until it just breaks away so you can't get a hold on it any more.  I've seen that happen and it's no fun.  I hope I haven't jinxed you now.Ouch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2017 at 10:45am
Soooo....

I ordered the bushing from Walcks and the correct size extraction tool for delivery to my American friends. They are back here in SA now and brought the bushing and tool with them. That part of the operation went well!

The extraction did not go as well.  The extraction tool is a bit of a gamble. Getting enough bite on the bushing to get it out pretty much destroys the bushing. If it doesn't come out there is no going back.
Mine didn't come out. It just crumbled and broke apart in pieces, but never released from the threads in the head. Most of it is still in there. Cry Ouch

This is where I am at:
I have ground down the inside of the bushing VERY carefully with a dremel tool until I can JUST see the threads of the outside thread in the head sticking through the brass. I now essentially have a smooth bore in the head consisting of the original threads now filled with brass. My plan is to re-tap the threads and in this way clean out the brass and re-establish the original threads.

Any suggestions on alternatives, before I start? This will be another one of those things where it will either work, or I will make even more of a mess. Not much going back once I have started.

And I will need to order the correct tap on line. Can I get confirmation that it is 1/2" NPT with 14 tpi?

I really need some luck on this one...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2017 at 11:56am
Mike, I've never had to tap this engine thread, but in dealing with water fittings, I believe it should be 1/2 inch NPT which is Nominal Pipe Thread. So, 1/2 inch pipe tap. It's a taper thread , not a straight thread like bolts have. You also do not tap all the way to the end of the tap's threads with a pipe tap. The fitting that screws in is suppose to stop in this taper thread. John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2017 at 2:05pm
Try using gentle heat on the bushing remnant.  A butane torch or small oxy setup if you have one.  I've had great luck over the years at using heat to free up stuck parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2017 at 10:01pm
Let me get this straight. You ground down to the threads all the way around the inside of the bushing? If so, oops!

You should have ground down to the threads in one spot only. Then using a punch you collapse the bushing onto itself. At that point, using Vise Grips you screw it out leaving clean undamaged threads.

If all around grinding is the case, then, yes, you now need a 1/2" NPT tap. Yet, MAYBE, If you are, lucky, very careful, & very patient, you could, perhaps, pull the remaining brass out of that hole with a small pick. A dental pick works best.

Good luck, Cpt Logger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2017 at 12:53am
I recently drilled a snapped stud, picked the stud threads at the top sufficient to index the tap, and used the tap to clean the remaining threads... patient describes it... tedious does as well.  Not sure how this approach would work on tapered pipe threads, but seems like it would work

.02
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2017 at 4:47am
Mbullism, that is my planned methodology. I hope it works. I'm encouraged that you have had success with it at least.

Cpt Logger,there was nothing to grasp onto with vice grips, and nothing was moving. Even with heat, penetrant and the extractor tool which had a good bite on it, it was just crumbling. This was my only option.

I'll order the 1/2" NPT tap today and then wait for 6 weeks for it to arrive. Patience, patience and more patience....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2017 at 5:14am
 If you've got iron points of threads showing thru the remains of brass, all the way around and clean thru the hole, you might be able to pick the brass out of the grooves with a sharp object, like a dental pick, or an awl, etc. If you can get an end started, it might just unwind out of there!  BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb. 2017 at 5:15pm
Well, I have some very good news to report on this thread. Big smile

My 1/2"-14 NPT tap arrived today. I took a long look at it and at the remaining bush stuck in the threads in the head and then went to lie down for a little bit. Too much pressure LOL



Well, lying around thinking about it wasn't going to make the problem any better or worse. So I got up and headed to the garage.

I had a tiny piece of one thread showing that allowed me to index the tap, which I did as carefully as I could. I knew if I started the tap wrong, it would cut new threads that I would never be able to correct later. I turned it in about a 1/8 turn, then before it had actually started cutting anything backed it out again to check if the score marks in the brass were in the right place. They were! Big smile So I loaded up again and went about another half turn, before backing out again. This time I saw that a piece of brass thread had dislodged and I was able to pick it out of the steel thread. This gave me more confidence in my indexing of the tap.

I continued in this manner, and the more I turned in, the more the brass thread dislodged and the more I could pick out.



I eventually was able to pick out most of it, as it was dislodged by the tap.



Once it was all out I ran the tap in just far enough until I could see the rust changing to steel in the tap flutes. That was the point I knew I was in to the original taper. I now have a clean 1/2" NPT hole in my head... Never thought i'd be so happy to have a hole in my head Tongue 




There has been some minor surface damage from the previous extraction efforts, but it is just cosmetic damage and will be mostly hidden behind the hex head of the bushing anyway. I may fill the small damage in with filler and paint it black - no one will ever know...

Just for the final test that i had succeeded, I fitted the correct bush, and it turned in easily by hand, eventually tightening in the tapered thread.



I first posted this thread on my problem on 1st January, and now on the 28th Feb it is finally solved!

Lessons learnt:
  1. Few problems are beyond salvaging. Stop, evaluate and think. 
  2. Ask for help and advice. Even if there is nothing new, you will confirm your assessment and proposed solutions.
  3. Be patient. Bad situations become worse if you are impatient. They can usually be fixed with time, patience and understanding.

Thank you to all who offered advice and help. I will be sleeping easily again tonight...

Mike  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb. 2017 at 5:22pm
Excellent! Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb. 2017 at 5:47pm
That would be a win!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb. 2017 at 6:12pm
Nice work Mike, now that you have steel on steel I think I'd use a couple of heavy wraps of Teflon tape to seal and slow down the rust process. There may be a more suitable compound to slow the inevitable rust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb. 2017 at 6:15pm
Thanks for the suggestion. What do you think off Permatex No 2 non hardening sealer? It's kinda what I was thinking of using...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb. 2017 at 6:19pm
Yup that was my other choice and it's right there on the workbench..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb. 2017 at 7:11pm
Permatex No 2 non hardening sealer  Thumbs Up   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaksjep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar. 2017 at 3:20am
WOW!!!  Good work and congratulations on not flipping out and ruining your head.
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