Walcks temp gauge/probe |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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I'm not saying it's going to be easy, but with the interface at the threads being brass to cast iron, and not steel to cast iron, I'm hoping the rust won't have taken hold in the same way.
I'll keep you updated. |
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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I'm picturing the brass crumbling where you try to grab it until it just breaks away so you can't get a hold on it any more. I've seen that happen and it's no fun. I hope I haven't jinxed you now.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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Soooo....
I ordered the bushing from Walcks and the correct size extraction tool for delivery to my American friends. They are back here in SA now and brought the bushing and tool with them. That part of the operation went well! The extraction did not go as well. The extraction tool is a bit of a gamble. Getting enough bite on the bushing to get it out pretty much destroys the bushing. If it doesn't come out there is no going back. Mine didn't come out. It just crumbled and broke apart in pieces, but never released from the threads in the head. Most of it is still in there. This is where I am at: I have ground down the inside of the bushing VERY carefully with a dremel tool until I can JUST see the threads of the outside thread in the head sticking through the brass. I now essentially have a smooth bore in the head consisting of the original threads now filled with brass. My plan is to re-tap the threads and in this way clean out the brass and re-establish the original threads. Any suggestions on alternatives, before I start? This will be another one of those things where it will either work, or I will make even more of a mess. Not much going back once I have started. And I will need to order the correct tap on line. Can I get confirmation that it is 1/2" NPT with 14 tpi? I really need some luck on this one...
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4406 |
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Mike, I've never had to tap this engine thread, but in dealing with water fittings, I believe it should be 1/2 inch NPT which is Nominal Pipe Thread. So, 1/2 inch pipe tap. It's a taper thread , not a straight thread like bolts have. You also do not tap all the way to the end of the tap's threads with a pipe tap. The fitting that screws in is suppose to stop in this taper thread. John
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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tamnalan
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2013 Location: Port Orford, OR Status: Offline Points: 986 |
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Try using gentle heat on the bushing remnant. A butane torch or small oxy setup if you have one. I've had great luck over the years at using heat to free up stuck parts.
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Alan Johnson
1942 MB - "TBD" 1943 MB - "Lt Bob" 1950 cj3a M-100 x2 teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740 |
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3022 |
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Let me get this straight. You ground down to the threads all the way around the inside of the bushing? If so, oops!
You should have ground down to the threads in one spot only. Then using a punch you collapse the bushing onto itself. At that point, using Vise Grips you screw it out leaving clean undamaged threads. If all around grinding is the case, then, yes, you now need a 1/2" NPT tap. Yet, MAYBE, If you are, lucky, very careful, & very patient, you could, perhaps, pull the remaining brass out of that hole with a small pick. A dental pick works best. Good luck, Cpt Logger. |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4760 |
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I recently drilled a snapped stud, picked the stud threads at the top sufficient to index the tap, and used the tap to clean the remaining threads... patient describes it... tedious does as well. Not sure how this approach would work on tapered pipe threads, but seems like it would work
.02
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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Mbullism, that is my planned methodology. I hope it works. I'm encouraged that you have had success with it at least.
Cpt Logger,there was nothing to grasp onto with vice grips, and nothing was moving. Even with heat, penetrant and the extractor tool which had a good bite on it, it was just crumbling. This was my only option. I'll order the 1/2" NPT tap today and then wait for 6 weeks for it to arrive. Patience, patience and more patience.... |
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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If you've got iron points of threads showing thru the remains of brass, all the way around and clean thru the hole, you might be able to pick the brass out of the grooves with a sharp object, like a dental pick, or an awl, etc. If you can get an end started, it might just unwind out of there! BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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Well, I have some very good news to report on this thread.
My 1/2"-14 NPT tap arrived today. I took a long look at it and at the remaining bush stuck in the threads in the head and then went to lie down for a little bit. Too much pressure Well, lying around thinking about it wasn't going to make the problem any better or worse. So I got up and headed to the garage. I had a tiny piece of one thread showing that allowed me to index the tap, which I did as carefully as I could. I knew if I started the tap wrong, it would cut new threads that I would never be able to correct later. I turned it in about a 1/8 turn, then before it had actually started cutting anything backed it out again to check if the score marks in the brass were in the right place. They were! So I loaded up again and went about another half turn, before backing out again. This time I saw that a piece of brass thread had dislodged and I was able to pick it out of the steel thread. This gave me more confidence in my indexing of the tap. I continued in this manner, and the more I turned in, the more the brass thread dislodged and the more I could pick out. I eventually was able to pick out most of it, as it was dislodged by the tap. Once it was all out I ran the tap in just far enough until I could see the rust changing to steel in the tap flutes. That was the point I knew I was in to the original taper. I now have a clean 1/2" NPT hole in my head... Never thought i'd be so happy to have a hole in my head There has been some minor surface damage from the previous extraction efforts, but it is just cosmetic damage and will be mostly hidden behind the hex head of the bushing anyway. I may fill the small damage in with filler and paint it black - no one will ever know... Just for the final test that i had succeeded, I fitted the correct bush, and it turned in easily by hand, eventually tightening in the tapered thread. I first posted this thread on my problem on 1st January, and now on the 28th Feb it is finally solved! Lessons learnt:
Mike
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4760 |
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Excellent!
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4406 |
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That would be a win!
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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RICKG
Member Joined: 08 Jan. 2015 Location: so idaho Status: Offline Points: 1941 |
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Nice work Mike, now that you have steel on steel I think I'd use a couple of heavy wraps of Teflon tape to seal and slow down the rust process.
There may be a more suitable compound to slow the inevitable rust.
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I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52 '50 CJ3A "Bucksnort". Keep 'em Rollin' |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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Thanks for the suggestion. What do you think off Permatex No 2 non hardening sealer? It's kinda what I was thinking of using...
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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RICKG
Member Joined: 08 Jan. 2015 Location: so idaho Status: Offline Points: 1941 |
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Yup that was my other choice and it's right there on the workbench..
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I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52 '50 CJ3A "Bucksnort". Keep 'em Rollin' |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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Permatex No 2 non hardening sealer BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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jaksjep
Member Joined: 03 Nov. 2013 Location: Southern CA Status: Offline Points: 471 |
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WOW!!! Good work and congratulations on not flipping out and ruining your head.
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My posts are my personal opinion and are not legal advice as I am not an attorney. If you act on any of my comments you do so at your own risk.
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