If a flash occurs when testing the primary, as outlined above, it
indicates that the primary circuit is all right and the trouble is elsewhere
so the secondary coil circuit should be tested as follows:
To test the secondary coil circuit, remove the distributor cap and turn the engine until the breaker points are making contact. Turn ON the ignition switch and remove the high tension wire (center wire) from the distributor cap. Hold this wire about one-eighth of an inch from a clean, unpainted surface of the engine, then open and close the breaker points with the finger, giving them a short, snappy break. A fat, flame-coloured spark indicates the coil is in good condition. No spark indicates the secondary winding of the coil is open, while a thin, stringy spark indicates an internally shorted coil or a loose or inoperative condenser. Condenser trouble will also be indicated by badly burned breaker points.
Should the test show a thin, stringy spark, check the condenser first. Be sure that the mounting screw is tight and is making a good ground connection to the distributor body and also that the connecting wire to the distributor points is not broken or the connection loose. Should no trouble be found in the condenser mounting or connection, install a new condenser which will localize the difficulty in either the coil or the condenser. No repairs can be made to either the condenser or coil, it being necessary to replace them if inoperative.
MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL
The manifolding is designed to utilize the exhaust gasses of the engine
to provide a quick means of heating the inlet manifold, thereby reducing
the length of time the choke must be used after starting a cold engine
and making the engine more flexible during the warm up period. The
heat control valve, Fig. 9, which controls the amount of exhaust gasses
by-passed around the intake manifold insures more complete vaporization
of the fuel. This control is fully automatic.
1. Heat Control Valve Lever Key
2. Heat Control Valve Lever Clamp Bolt Nut 3. Heat Control Valve Shaft 4. Heat Control Valve Lever Clamp Screw 5. Heat Control Valve Bi-Metal Spring Washer 6. Heat Control Valve Counterweight Lever 7. Heat Control Valve Bi-Metal Spring 8. Heat Control Valve Bi-Metal Spring Stop |
The valve shaft should turn freely in the manifold at all times. Note that the thermoplastic spring, No. 7, should be assembled above the metal stop, No. 8.
ENGINE MOUNTINGS
The rubber engine
mountings, which are attached to the frame side rail brackets and to the
support plate, prevent fore-and-aft motion of the engine, yet allow free
sidewise and vertical oscillation which neutralizes vibration at the source.
Keep the mountings tight. A loose engine may cause vibration, clutch
chatter or high fuel level in the carburetor.
The rubber surface of the mountings partially insulates the engine from the frame. To assure a positive electrical connection between the engine and the frame, a ground strap is provided at the right front engine support under the generator. See Fig. 10. The two attaching screws must be kept tight and the connections clean. A loose or poor connection may result in hard engine starting, low charging rate of the generator or sluggish operation of the starting motor.
OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
The oil pump assembly is provided with a pressure relief valve which
controls the maximum oil pressure at all speeds.
The standard controlled pressure is 35 lps. at 30 mph. and 10 lbs. at
the idle speed of 600 rpm. as registered by the dash gauge. Pressure
may be adjusted by installing or removing shims between the relief plunger
spring and the spring retainer. Add shims to increase the pressure
or remove to decrease.
1. Cover Screw
2. Cover 3. Cover Gasket 4. Outer Rotor 5. Shaft and Rotor 6. Body 7. Driven Gear 8. Gasket 9. Gear Retaining Pin 10. Relief Valve Retainer 11. Relief Valve Retainer Gasket 12. Relief Valve Spring 13. Relief Valve Plunger |
The oil pump drive shaft drives both the pump and the distributor assembly.
See Fig. 2. Should it be necessary to remove the oil pump assembly,
first remove the distributor cap and carefully note the position of the
rotor to allow reinstallation without disturbing the ignition timing.
When the pump is installed, use care that the driving key on the end of
the distributor shaft is correctly meshed with the slot on the end of the
pump shaft. To make the installation without disturbing the ignition
timing, the pump gear must be correctly meshed with the camshaft gear to
allow mesh of the distributor driving key and slot with the distributor
rotor in the original position. Should it be necessary to reset the
ignition timing, refer to the previous page.
FIG. 2 -- SIDE SECTIONAL VIEW OF ENGINE |
1. Fan Assembly
2. Water Pump Bearing and Shaft Assembly 3. Water Pump Seal Washer 4. Water Pump Seal Assembly 5. Water Pump Impeller 6. Piston 7. Wrist Pin 8. Thermostat Assembly 9. Water Outlet Elbow 10. Thermostat Retainer 11. Exhaust Valve 12. Intake Valve 13. Cylinder Head 14. Exhaust Manifold Assembly 15. Valve Spring 16. Valve Tappet Self-Locking Adjusting Screw 17. Engine Plate - Rear 18. Camshaft 19. Flywheel Ring Gear 20. Crankshaft Packing - Rear End 21. Crankshaft Bearing Rear Drain Pipe 22. Crankshaft Bearing Rear - Lower 23. Valve Tappet 24. Crankshaft 25. Oil Pump and Distributor Drive Gear. |
26. Connecting Rod Cap Bolt
27. Oil Float Support 28. Oil Float Assembly 29. Crankshaft Bearing Centre - Lower 30. Connecting Rod Assembly - No. 2 31. Connecting Rod Bolt Nut Lock 32. Crankshaft Bearing - Lower Front 33. Crankshaft Oil Passages 34. Crankshaft Thrust Washer 35. Crankshaft Gear 36. Crankshaft Gear Spacer 37. Timing Gear Cover Assembly 38. Fan and Generator Drive Belt 39. Crankshaft Oil Seal 40. Starting Crank Nut Assembly 41. Crankshaft Carrier Key 42. Fan and Governor Drive Pulley Key 43. Timing Gear Oil Jet 44. Fan, Generator and Governor Drive Pulley 45. Camshaft Thrust Plate 46. Camshaft Gear Retaining Washer 47. Camshaft Gear Retaining Screw 48. Camshaft Gear Thrust Plate Retaining Screw 49. Camshaft Gear |
FLOATING OIL
INTAKE
The floating oil intake (No. 28, Fig. 2) is attached to the crankcase
with two screws. The construction of the float and screen cause it
to remain on top of the oil, preventing the circulation of water and dirt.
Once each year remove the float, screen and tube and clean thoroughly with a suitable cleaning fluid. When replacing, place some sealer on the gasket where the tube bears against the engine crankcase. A leak at this point will allow air to enter the oil suction line seriously affecting oil pressure.
CRANKCASE VENTILATOR
The crankcase ventilating system provides thorough, positive ventilation
which reduces to a minimum the formation of sludge. In operation
(see Fgi. 12) clean air flows from the air cleaner through the short connecting
tube to the oil filler tube and then through the crankcase and valve compartment
to the intake manifold. Any vapours in the crankcase are carried
into the manifold and burned. Positive air circulation reduces oil
temperatures and the formation of moisture due to condensation. Air
flow is controlled at the manifold by the control valve.
Be sure there are no air leaks at the tube connection between the air cleaner and oil filler tube, and that the oil filler tube cap gasket is in good condition. Always keep the cap locked securely in place.
When tuning the engine of grinding valves, remove the control valve
and clean it thoroughly. If this valve is blocked with carbon, the
ventilating system will not operate and should the valve fail to seat,
it will be impossible to make the engine idle satisfactorily.
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