A little project update on Chug A Lug

Mark W. wrote: ..stuff...  Maybe I can find a Paxton super charger to make up for it LOL. ...stuff...  Happy Willys owner tonight

I'm with you there. I've seen the Go-Devil belt driven superchargers in poor condition selling in the $5000 range. I didn't hang around to see if they actually sold, but I don't have the cash flow to run in that league.I picked up a small single turbo from a 2001 Volvo twin-turbo something-or-other from a local salvage yard for $35. My plan is to fab (or have fabbed for me) a set of flanges and set up a draw-through system on my two-year old L134, pushing about 4-5psi of boost.I did a bit of digging, and it turns out that the (almost)Paxton supercharger kit for the Go-Devil was a two-speed unit, developing 2.5 and 5psi of boost depending on whether it was in low or high 'gear'.I'm looking for two things out of my turbo setup - holding speed on hills and that distinctly 'military' sound like you hear from a deuce-and-a-half. I know I'll get the first, and I'm hoping for the second. 

Edited by LesBerg - 22 Jan. 2015 at 5:23am

So I been up to my Bee Hind in finishing up the fancy Clutch/Brake pedal arm to the Clutch Pedal Shaft and the mount to the frame. I'm pretty happy with the way it all can out.


So here it is my new upgraded and modified factory Clutch and Brake shaft assembly.

 




A little closer view of the assembly. This uses the Willys Factory Pedal Slop fix kit (thats the long bolt running through the center of the assembly and the cupped washer and the hollow adjustment nut followed by the Nylon insert Jam/locking nut) I have done away with the cotter pins and the steel washers. All wear surfaces and pivot points are Bronze Oilite Bearings. And all are serviced by a Gease Zerk.



Just a view from the other side



Bottom view ? Well actually this will be the view from the top when installed. The Mount attaches with 4) G8 5/16"-18T bolts cut to fit the application. You can see the spacer I made from a 7/8" ID x 1 1/2" OD shaft collar. It was just easier to start from the Collar then to make one from scratch on the lathe. But it worked out real well allowing me to lock the collar to the shaft and keeping it from rotating and causing wear.

The space you see to the right of the Brake Pedal arm is where the brace will attach between the shaft assembly and the master cylinder mount. I'm going to be making this from 1/4" T stock and I bought some 10-32T tiny grease zerks so it can be serviced.



OK here is everything laid out.

From the left

3/8"-16T Nylon insert Lock nut

Cupped threaded adjustment Nut for the Willys Pedal Slop Fix Kit

.125"T X 1.00" ID X 1.50" OD Thrust Bearing

.250" W X 1.00" ID X 1.125" OD Bronze Bushing

.065"T X 1.00" ID X 1.50" OD Thrust Bearing

Brake Pedal Arm with 1.00" ID X 1.25" OD Bronze Bearing Pressed into the Arm. Then faced off.

.065"T X 1.00" ID X 1.50" OD Thrust Bearing

Special Shaft collar made with a set cut inside to allow room for weld line on Clutch Lever

Next would come the Clutch Lever mounted on the Clutch Shaft (show in the above line)

Clutch Shaft Assembly to Frame mount

Bronze 1" ID x 1 1/4" OD w/ 1/8" T x 1 1/2" Flange OD

Tube made from 1.5" x 2.75" 1020 Cold Rolled shaft material Bored to an ID of 1.250" Bronze bushings were then Pressed in place. Once assembled the ends of the Tube were faced off square with the Bore.

Bronze 1" ID x 1 1/4" OD w/ 1/8" T x 1 1/2" Flange OD

Once the Tube was assembled and the base of the Mount was roughed out. I took to press the Tube Assembly into the Mount. I guessed as to exactly what the interference fit would be (could have taken a .001 to .002" off the tube and been safe). I placed the Tube in the Freezer. Once it was as cold as it was going to get I put everything in my large bench vise and started pushing the Tube into place. I got about 3/8" in of the 2" it needed to travel to end up centered.

then out came the propane torch and more reefing on the vise. And it got to the point I was tightening the vise ASAP and then wacking the vise with a hammer to shock it into moving. Much like you would break free a gear puller. This got me to about 5/8" from done. When the Vise came off the bench (not to worry it did that once before about 15 years ago) So I resigned myself to have to take it up to the shop at work tomorrow and press it in with the big Hydraulic press..

Wife screams for dinner/Eat dinner

Great Idea. I assemble a reverse gear puller using some of the parts from my Milling machine hold down set. And with it sitting in the vise (now clamped to the bench) and using 2" 18" box end wenches I managed to get it almost perfect. BUT WHAT A PITA. I need a small press.



Some detail on the Mount section showing one of the Bronze bushings and a piece of the shaft material. The actual base is made from a piece of 1.5" x 2" x 4" 1020 Cold rolled Steel I had.



Details showing the protected grease zerk and the backing plate that will go inside the frame. The backing plate which will get welded to the frame.

OK back to the progression down the assembly.

Clutch Pedal Arm

.065"T X 1.00" ID X 1.50" OD Thrust Bearing

Following seen on the upper line.

Cupped Steel Washer from Willys Factory Slop Fix Kit

Steel 3/8" ID washer

3/8"-16T X 8" bolt with the head slightly thinned.

Attached to the Clutch Lever is one of the two Rod ends that will make up the Clutch Push Rod.

There you have it 4+ days of work I enjoy over engineering things.

Next thing like this is the Steering Box mount (525 Manual Saginaw Box) and the brace for it.


Edited by Mark W. - 26 Jan. 2015 at 1:17am

Looks nice, Mark. Can I order one?

Mike S wrote: Looks nice, Mark. Can I order one?

 

Some Quick Photos of the New Master Cylinder Mount. Its not quite done still the bracket that goes from the mount to the pedal shaft to make (waiting for the layout fluid to dry on the steel so I can scribe it out) and I have to drill another hole for the little bracket between the mount and the upper frame rail. I had to change some things after my first design following measurements from a store bought bracket put the MC way to close to the pedal shaft for my idea of ideal geometry (I know the store bought brackets have to deal with the Ross Steering box I do not since I am going with Saginaw Steering)

I now have the pushrod almost perfectly lined up both horizontal and vertical to piston in the MC. I may build a new pushrod using a Rod end and a Threaded rod because now the MC has more stroke then the original pushrood was designed for and part of the adjustment collar actually enters the MC when the pedal arm is fully depressed.

I'm also going to make a little pedal stop to make sure the pedal arm can't hit the top of the MC. Like when bleeding the brakes or something.

I have 5" of pedal travel and can't imagine that I will need any more then that. I double checked and I can bottom out the MC while keeping the pedal arm just 1/8" off the top of the MC.  I guess I'll find out when I start assembling the chassis and can actually test the brakes. And then when the floor is in place I can proof the pedal arm position.

Once finished I'll pull everything apart sandblast all the parts and give them a good painting with etching primer and chassis black. All the bolts once they are cut to length and all the nuts and washers will go into a baggie waiting for the frame to be finished. And I get to start a final assembly.

One of the few things I learned from all those drama queen hot rod shows on TV is to completely build the custom stuff then take it apart, paint it and reassemble it. Rather then just blast paint all over the various assembles. That way no hidden areas are unprotected and you make your mistakes before you end up screwing up the paint job.




This is a CJ5 frame so its different as to how the tranny cross member mounts. On the inside of the frame there was a .100" doubler spot welded on. I removed that and replaced it with the part that becomes the heat shield. The stack of 1/4" piece you see are to level things out because of wanting to tie the MC bracket to one of the Pedal Shaft Mount bolts.



In this photo you can see the horizontal alignment of the pushrod as well as the master cylinders distance from the frame rail (about 1/4") no need to grind into the frame rail.



Front view of the gap between the MC and the frame.



Vertical view



Rear View



View under the MC and the edge of the heat shield. Had I not had to change the design after I built the first bracket moving the MC 1.5" farther away from the Pedal Shaft the 45 degree section of the heat shield would have been an integral part of the shield. But moving it exposed the front of the MC to direct exhaust heat so this is the fix I came up with.



Detail showing how its all bolted together. While I did the majority of the work over top of the frame I have made sure that without to much cussing and screaming I can take everything back part from under the jeep so servicing the MC when it comes time shouldn't be a problem.

So I'll add a couple more photos to this series once the bracket to the Pedal shaft is done and I have all the proper nuts and bolts in place.

I'm seriously thinking about drilling a few 1/8"D registration pin holes while its all aligned and to make it a little easier to reassemble. I would drill the holes and ream them to exactly 1/8" and use some drill rod pins I have to hold the parts in place while the nuts and bolts are tightened.

OK back to the shop I'm sure the Layout fluid is dry by now.






Edited by Mark W. - 02 Feb. 2015 at 7:25pm

So I get the call the engine machine work and both gear boxes are ready to be picked up. The gear boxes are almost completely new inside. The engine is honed to fit the pistons, hard seats, crank and rods ground .010 under, Computer Spin Balanced. I still need to buy bearings and the gaskets/seals.

I should have some photos in a couple days.

both excited and a little scared.

I found it on my Willys. Dad must have had it put on in the 60's he was good friends with the Jeep dealerships mechanic in Salem. And the Jeep club he was a charter member of had its meetings in the shop at the dealership. So I would assume a lot of things like the Pedal slop kit was well known among his running buddies at the time.

The only thing that would need to be made is the big adjustment nut. And that could easily be done on a lathe from some Octagon shaped stock. You can buy small amounts of that from an on line metal dealer like "on line metals" or "speedy metals" The cupped washed on the other end could be made from round stock. the bolt is a hardware store 3/8"-16T x 8" grade 5 bolt.

If you want to try making the two pieces I can post some drawings of their dimensions  tomorrow.

I will PM them to you ASAP

Rapid progress, Mark. Having fun, too!