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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Topic: A little project update on Chug A Lug
Posted By: Mark W.
Subject: A little project update on Chug A Lug
Date Posted: 24 Nov. 2014 at 10:18pm
SO the wife wanted to do something for the Willys project for my Christmas present. I figured having her do the seats would be a good fit for her.
 
We talked to the upholster and got everything set up. THEN came my side of it. I had to get the three seat frames ready to be recovered. Now dad had done the front seats in the std. 4" foam Nagahyde box corner style back in the early 60's the rear seat never got done and us kids just sat on the old spring and horse hair cushions.
 
So everything had to be sand blasted and painted. WOW is that a deceptive sentence. I have done a lot of sand blasting I have been painting stuff like this since I was a little kid (more then 4 decades ago) but these three seats have turned out to be one PITA project. From trying to sand blast inside a visqueen tent in the carport to damp sand to having a huge head and chest cold to MAN do these seat frames have a lot of surface area!. The new plywood bottom boards were easy.
 
The rear seat is currently hanging up with what will most likely be its last coat of paint. I'll let them all cure in the living room near the pellet stove for a few days before I take them to the upholstery shop.
 
I also today talked to one of the few mechanics around that has a distributor machine about setting up my IAT 4405 (vacuum advance) dist. once I get it cleaned up and ready. I'll have to set it up with points to do the advance curves (his machine can't handle a magnetic trigger) but then I can swap in the Petronix unit. The springs are a tiny bit stretched but I hope I can just bend the tabs and get the curve on since finding replacement springs is near impossible.
 
Tomorrow I run down to a buddy's from work to pickup a Cherry picker so I can strip the block and get it to the machine shop. Gotta get this stuff done or pretty soon it will be March and some guy will be calling me back to work 60 hours a week.
 
I'll post photos later of the pretty seat frames.
 
 


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962



Replies:
Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 25 Nov. 2014 at 1:38am
Seat frame photos. I wasn't worried about a nice finish on the backs where they will be covered by the upholstery. I used Krylon hi build Red Oxide Primer then Krylon DUAL Superbond in Satin Black. Glad these are done.
 
 
Mark W.


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 25 Nov. 2014 at 3:00am
Looking good!


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: 48willys
Date Posted: 25 Nov. 2014 at 7:05pm
Lookin good . Walck's lists the distributor springs, don't know if they are the ones you need. Shipping is the killer though lol

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1946 cj2a #28680
1948 chevy 3800 thriftmaster
1946-50's cj2a-3a farm jeep
1993 yj, aka the yj7


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 25 Nov. 2014 at 7:24pm
Here's a link to the springs Walck's sells.  The don't say anything about the  IAT 4405 , but .......
http://walcks4wd.com/distributor-weight-spring-2-pi.html" rel="nofollow - http://walcks4wd.com/distributor-weight-spring-2-pi.html


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Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 1:56am
Thanks guys I'll add a pair to my next Order from Walcks The ones shown in the photo have what appears to be 7 coils mine (that are in the Distributor not saying they are the correct ones) have 8.
I'm going to go at this problem by collecting up anything that looks close and I'll figure out what to end up using when I'm standing in front of the Distributor machine watching it spin.
 
Mark W.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 30 Nov. 2014 at 12:41am
OK an update and a little Happy dance. I got the engine up off the floor started stripping all the external stuff off it and then got it on a stand (funny thing the stand came from a Willys guy and the arms were already adjusted and locked in place to fit my block LOL) So once on the stand I got serious after pulling studs (figured I do this myself it can only save me money at the machine shop) I went to Salem picked up a Handy Dandy adjustable Stud Puller (with a life time warrantee which its live is about over LOL) The guys at the Tool store recommended some super duper rust juice so I got some of that as well. Let everything soak over night and today went after the head studs.
So heres what I did
1. cleaned area around studs
2. soaked stud head to block with the Rust Juice
3. took my propane torch and adjusted the flame so it would burn pointing straight down and circled the stud about to be attacked for about 2 min.
4. 2 taps with a 20oz ball pen straight down on the end of the stud.
5. wrapped the cam style stud puller and my antique Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar around the stud
6. said a tiny prayer
7. started turning.
8. tiny happy feeling as each one gave up its hold and let go.
Results all 15 head studs came out free and clean with no damage to the block or my heart.
So the happy dance was a little premature as two of the manifold studs decided to screw with me and twisted off flush with the block (either side of #3 exhaust).
So tomorrow I'll flip the block on the stand get my handy dandy Black and Decker drill guide  a centering drill and drill them out to fit one of my easyouts. Should that prove ineffective I'll drill them out to run a tap in them and cut the old stud threads out of the block. In any case shouldn't take more then an hour. I done this kind of thing in much worse places then a block on an engine stand.
 
Once that done and I have a couple more brackets pulled off I'll get the oil pump and then start taking out the valve train (its ALL getting replaced) then off to the rods and the crank.
 
I been soaking the pistons in ATF for about 3 year now and a few days ago started with PB Blaster and now as of last night I have the cylinders soaking in this new Rust Juice. Hopefully a few gentle taps is all it will take to pop the rings loose.
 
Once everything is stripped and I have a bare block I'm going to chase all the threaded holes with a bottoming tap and get any crude out before the block is tanked (again anything to save a few bucks)
 
I could be ready to drop this off at the Machine shop as early as Monday afternoon!!!
 
SO far no obvious cracks any where and this was when parked a water/oil and compression tight running every day motor. Still would be if the evil little brother hadn't pulled the head 35ish years ago.
 
More later.


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 30 Nov. 2014 at 3:04am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:


I been soaking the pistons in ATF for about 3 year now and a few days ago started with PB Blaster and now as of last night I have the cylinders soaking in this new Rust Juice. Hopefully a few gentle taps is all it will take to pop the rings loose.
 


 I used something called Corrosion block. http://www.learchem.com/products/corrosion-block.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.learchem.com/products/corrosion-block.html
 Found it in a boat store. Very pleased with it. My block was also frozen for a few years.


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Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 30 Nov. 2014 at 3:33am
Well hopefully tomorrow the stuck everything will be no more as its all coming apart tomorrow unless something goes horribly wrong LOL.

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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 01 Dec. 2014 at 12:53am
So Today was eventful. The two busted Manifold Studs were not done screwing with me. In the end I won sort of I got both out (with a drill bit) and managed to get both holes threaded. But I fear neither is up to the thread quality I want so I'll have the Machinist install Helicoils while he's doing all the other good things. It should cost a lot less with a stripped block sitting on a bench then the cost to my soul it would take to do it down the road working over the fender.
 
Both holes will hold 35 ft lbs of torque but I still don't trust them.
 
After wrestling with the Valve train its all out. MAN was it a chore to twist out some of them Valves. It appears at one time 3 of the Valve guides were replaced as they are different then the others.
 
The Pistons were a challenge as well after pulling the Crank (which looks beautiful as does its Main and Rod bearings) I had to pound them out. I have a big round piece of canvas Micarta that looks like a Huge 1" thick toilet paper tube that was just under the size of the bore (note to all who read this if you do this be sure to dry the rust juice out of the cylinder first cause it was like a spray can exploded first time I hit that tube with the hammer LOL) The Cylinders look pretty much like I expected. If .060" cleans them up (they are already at .040" over) it will be a minor miracle. #1 was especially a PITA.
 
SO step #1 Complete tear down .....................DONE
 
No call for work tomorrow so maybe step #2 Take Bare block and Head to Machinist for Tanking and Magnifluxing and Evaluation could happen.
 
I'll snap some groddy Pictures tomorrow to show you all the nasty hunks and pieces.  
 
I'm worn out!


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 02 Dec. 2014 at 2:44am
OK today up date:
Seats got dropped off at the Upholsterers and details ironed out with him, He says expect 2-3 weeks.
 
Block and Head got dropped off at the Machinists today. First step is to get them boiled clean and Magnifluxed so we know what we got to work with. He wasn't to worried about the condition. But then its not his money..................yet LOL.
 
And here are the groddy photos I promised.
 
 
Can't wait to see what it looks like done!
 
Mark W.


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 02 Dec. 2014 at 2:54am
Actually does not look too bad, I've seen worse.


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Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 03 Dec. 2014 at 4:19am
Todays up date I'm third in line for the chem tank/sand blaster and Magniflux treatment I should know what I have to work with by next Friday.
 
YIPPIE


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 08 Dec. 2014 at 2:07am
 
 
WOW How I hate trying to get back into a project that got stalled. Today I started to see what it would take to get my new shackle mounts and shackles done. Well after searching the shop the carport/Willys reconstruction center and my office I determined that I had lost one side of one of the front shackles as well as the center section for that shackle. It wasn't until the 3rd or 4th time I stirred up all the misc parts where I thought they would be I found one of the bushings that was missing. OH not to mention a whole bunch of them cheap Grade 8 bolts!
 
So off to the hardware store with my list of needed fasteners. then a second trip to the hardware store cause I grabbed 3) 7/16" NC X 3.5" bolts so fast they turned into 3/8" NC x 3.5" bolts. So once home I attacked the missing shackle side. Only to pull a bone head mistake and not have the parts clamped down while drilling a 9/16" hole the result screwing up the original I was using as a drill guide and the new one.
 
SO now I have two new side plates and they match perfectly since I made them at the same time LOL.
 
Here is a look at the new shackle mounts that will be bolted to the frame and then welded in place with a backing plate on the inside of the frame. As well as one of the shackles (I still need to round the ends) The bolts need to be center drilled for the grease zerts and the grease passages.
 
You can see in the photo the center section which I still have to make one of them for the other front shackle. (the wifes chicken on the stove has taken the will to machine right out of me LOL)
 
I should be able to have all the new shackle mounts, shackles and other machine work with this done tomorrow and have it all bolted together waiting for the Welder to glue it all together.
 
A Note since I am not trying to lift Chug at all these are very close to the original C shackles in length. I figure the brand new springs will jack Chug up plenty compared to what I was used to in High school since they were already 25+ years old when I started driving it.
 
 
You can see the LONG rear shackle mounts I had to make to allow the CJ5 rear springs and the 81" WB to fit the shortened frame (to fit the 2A tub). A note the air tank is most likely not staying.


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 10 Dec. 2014 at 1:49am
HOT DANG. last night I posted an ad on one of the other Willys Forums for the 9.25" clutch flywheel I need in order to run the larger clutch on Chug A Lug and I already have an offer of one. Now that's some quick service.
 
I been wanting to get started on upgrading the clutch linkage but holding off because I wasn't sure if I could do the 9.25" clutch. This will get me going.
 
NOW to figure out which bell housing to use with it and the Toyota FJ starter conversion I am going to do.
 
OH and today I got my little 30 gallon garbage can sandblasting cabinet all set back up and working again. Its just barely and I mean barely big enough to get the 11" Brake backing plates in there and all cleaned up. I got one of them done today the other rear one tomorrow. Going to use some Real Hammerite Industrial Blue smooth finish paint I have on them. think that will look nice and show them off a little Chassis Black Axle with Blue backing plates.
 
The front backing plates are still assembled to the front hubs the guy included when I bought them from him. He had just upgraded his brakes with 11" and everything new then a couple weeks later his buddy destroyed his jeep and offered up his DANA 44 axles so the guy put his DANA 25 with the new brakes up for sale. No one wanted to pay the shipping so the price kept dropping. I offered him his asking price for the axle if he would pull the brakes and send them to me. He included everything from the King pins out including a nice set of Warn hubs.
 
I'll get around to prettying them up when I get to the front axle.
 
MAN this is getting to be a bunch of fun.


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 13 Dec. 2014 at 3:58am
 
 
 
 
 
 
Just a couple photos to prove I been working on it.
 
First the Bell housing all cleaned up and Phosphate coated ready for Primer and paint tomorrow
 
 
Next the 11" backing plates freshly sandblasted and ready to be phosphate coated and painted.
 
 


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 13 Dec. 2014 at 4:59am
They look so nice!


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Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 13 Dec. 2014 at 6:25am
It was a huge PITA getting them that way in my little 30 gallon garbage can sandblaster cabinet. If I could have got my real bench top cabinet set up it would have been a lot easier. But its buried in the shop and I would have had a bunch of work to get it going. Looking forward to seeing what they look like painted with all the Purdy new and restored brake parts on them. Ready to slap onto the ends of the DANA 44 housing I have.

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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 6:40am
WOW talked to the Machinist today and he said the block came through the tank and magnifluxing really well just a couple of tiny cracks from a head stud hole to the water jacket in a place that its not worth worrying about no need to be welded. The head he said was beautiful.
 
He also said he thought the block would clean up at .060" over and we wouldn't have to go out to .080" (I'm still holding my breath).
 
Heading up there tomorrow morning to drop off the crank and rods. Also taking my NOS cam for him to mic. Just in case somethings different when it comes to the cam bearings.
 
 


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 3:02pm
I'd want him to have the pistons in hand before the final honing if it was me.





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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"


Posted By: smfulle
Date Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 3:25pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

WOW talked to the Machinist today and he said the block came through the tank and magnifluxing really well just a couple of tiny cracks from a head stud hole to the water jacket in a place that its not worth worrying about no need to be welded. The head he said was beautiful.
 
He also said he thought the block would clean up at .060" over and we wouldn't have to go out to .080" (I'm still holding my breath).
 
Heading up there tomorrow morning to drop off the crank and rods. Also taking my NOS cam for him to mic. Just in case somethings different when it comes to the cam bearings.
 
 

Mark,
You seem pretty experienced, and I'm not, so I sometimes hesitate to throw in any "advice," but I will toss in my experience with trying to punch a block out to .80 over.  The sidewall was so thin that it caved in on me. i almost cried when the machinist showed me the results.




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Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/grampas-cj2a_topic16836.html" rel="nofollow - Grampa's Jeep Build Thread


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 4:12pm
As I have said before. This block has been punched to .040 already. It has some rust damage from sitting for 35 years with the head off (or at least loose) There for it has to be bored over again. There is NO OPTION. If it cleans up at .060" over then YIPPIE HAPPY HAPPY. The machinist thinks that will happen now that the block has been tanked and thoroughly checked. If it can't then the ONLY OPTIONS are to try .080" over or to go even farther so that a sleeve or sleeves can be fit.
 
As to having the pistons in hand prior to final honing I totally agree. And will get pistons ordered tonight.


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: cpt logger
Date Posted: 16 Dec. 2014 at 5:46pm
I would wait on the order until I was sure that 0.060 will clean it up. If your shop is any good at all, the "final hone" will be done with the pistons in hand. If you order 0.060 pistons & have to bore out to 0.080, or even if you have to sleeve it & then bore to your desired 0.080, (per your first post), now you are stuck with 0.060 pistons that will not fit your engine. I have been there & done that. I was able to resell, at a loss, my oversize pistons to a fellow rodder.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 17 Dec. 2014 at 4:13am
Its all a moot point now. I got the call from the machinist. He punched the bores (minus final surface honing) to .060" and told me to order up some Pistons. SO I have a set of .060" overs w/rings coming from G503 (check their piston price its quite good) Also have Valve Guides and Valves coming so he can do the hard seats, valve grind, and deck the block.
 
The best part is we talked money and it looks like due to how I did all the disassembly and will reassemble the engine (except for the cam bearing, Valve guides and Piston Pins) its going to save me a small fortune compared to what the first machinist was going to charge me.
 
I can live without the extra cubic inch of displacement and the .1 (maybe) of compression ratio increase for being able to clean up the mess I thought I had looking at them bores.
 
Maybe I can find a Paxton super charger to make up for it LOL.
 
I've also seen a Photo of the 9.25" flywheel I'm buying from a gent on another jeep forum and it looks great. I'll have the local machinist put a fresh surface on it and it should be already to go.
 
Happy Willys owner tonight


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 17 Dec. 2014 at 4:33am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:


Maybe I can find a Paxton super charger to make up for it LOL.
 



 Yes! LOL


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Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 20 Dec. 2014 at 1:36am
SO today was interesting. Made a runback to the Machinist to deliver Pistons, Valves and Valve guides. I also took the opportunity to CC the combustion chambers. My head is as measured very thick at 2.145-2.148" measured gasket surface to the top of the four corner head nut bosses.
The Kaiser Supersonic head measures at 2.109 to 2.110 from all reports. The combustion chambers have the same shape. So basically a Kaiser Supersonic head is a shaved Willys 134L head.
 
I got 88-89 CC's as close as we could tell. And it was decided to take just .035" off the head. By eyeball estimation this should get me close to a 80-81 CC combustion chamber.
 
Once cut I will re CC the head and find out exactly where we are. But I figure since the Bores came out a little better then I thought they would (only needing .060" over) I would leave a little meat on the head as well.
 
There was a head that we measured the thickness (head nut boss to gasket surface) and it was cut past what mine will be and it came off a running engine. SO I not worried.
 
The other thing that happened was I got a Call from the Upholster and my seats were ready to be picked up. Since it is supposed to rain like crazy here tomorrow I ran up there tonight. And got them
 
In a nut shell THEY POP the orange piping with the Black Nagahyde really looks good. I have a couple places to touch up the paint on the frames (I expected that) But I am really happy with the end results. I'll post photos tomorrow into this post.
 
Here they are I need to touch up the paint some and I will adjust the covers a little but I'm happy.
 
 
 
 


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 20 Dec. 2014 at 6:16am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Since it is supposed to rain like crazy here tomorrow....


 Can't wait. ConfusedLOL

Looking forward to those photos!


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 24 Dec. 2014 at 8:47pm
OK a little up date. I now have all the parts for my Rear 11" brakes with E-Brake. Except the drums. I have a pair of drums that might be able to be cleaned up. But I'm going to go with New. And won't buy them until I start to assemble the rear axle. Going to hold off on all lines until I have the Axles under the chassis and the Dual Master Cylinder mounted and the linkage hooked up. I'll most likely buy the hard lines for the axles and make the front and rear frame lines when it gets to the point I am assembling the chassis.
 
I have a bunch of Clutch parts in some delivery truck somewhere headed my way. Along with about 1/2 of the next big batch of engine parts. Still quite a few of the engine parts to get. Parts are starting to add up pretty quick since I am replacing pretty much anything that can have had any wear on it.
 
I now have all the new Valve train either on hand or on the way.
 
I think the next little project (clean up and paint) will be the valve cover and oil pan. That should keep me busy for a little while.


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 27 Dec. 2014 at 4:54pm
OK todays update.  When I bought the backing plates for my rear 11" brakes the guy I bought them from threw in a set of front brakes and a pair of pretty nasty looking drums. The Backing plates cleaned up very nicely. And I went about buying up all the parts and pieces to assemble the new rear brakes. I held off on the drums just because they would be about $98.00 for the pair and I really don't need them yet.
 
Well yesterday I was looking for something to do so I grabbed the nasty drums and ran down to NAPA to have them measure and see if they could be turned and saved.
 
Turns out they had never been cut and were only .005-.010 over size with a .090 discard. SO I brought them home and since they won't fit into my little 30 gallon garbage can sandblaster cabinet. I went after them with an Angle Grinder and a twisted wire wire wheel that was on its last legs.
 
I managed to get almost done before the wire wheel didn't have enough wire in it to do much of anything. Switched to another type of drill mounted wire wheel and got the job done.
 
SO todays photos  On the Right BEFORE on the Left AFTER clean up and Phosphate coating.
 
Next will come Black Caliper paint should contrast nicely with my Safety Blue Backing Plates


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 28 Dec. 2014 at 2:55am
Good thing you didn't just scrap those drums!


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 28 Dec. 2014 at 3:15am
Yea they looked done I could tell they weren't grooved or anything but until they were measured they sure looked like crap.
 
Hope a few more things turn out like them. CHEAP LOL


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 28 Dec. 2014 at 3:17am
Only means more funds going to other areas. LOL


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 02 Jan. 2015 at 8:02am
Ok just a quick what I've been up to lately.
 
The Brake drums are painted (will have them turned right before installing them)
 
The oil pan (interestingly enough doesn't have a skid plate and only had one small dent) is currently in primer. It was a chore to clean up but I would eat breakfast cereal out of it now LOL. Its going to be Chassis Black tomorrow.
 
I got one of the heavy cast single groove pulleys from Ron Fitzpatrick it came with a rather heavy OD green paint on it. So I threw it in the lathe and removed the paint from the sealing surface and then polished that surface with some 600 grit paper so its nice and smooth. I then removed some of the green paint and reprimed and painted it with Chassis Black.
 
The Rear Axle (this is the 70-71 CJ5 DANA 44 30 spline Housing and Axles I bought local). Is all cleaned up inside and out. Phosphated and painted with Chassis Black Sooooo Pretty LOL I have huge (read expensive) plans for this hunk of steel. OH the Cover that came with the Housing is a pretty heavy chrome cover with a bunch of surface rust so a good working over with a fine rotary wire wheel some Phosphate and etching primer and its a matching Chassis Black now too.
 
rear axle photo and yes that is the living room floor and the wifes Christmas tree. she's been super about letting me keep the paint warm while it cures on a number of things.
 
 
Also cleaned up now is the front engine plate (waiting on gaskets to determine where I need to mask it off) The Oil Float and Support I boiled out in some Berrymans carb cleaner (man I hate that stuff and the smell that never seams to dissipate). Cam retaining plate cleaned and polished and a number of smaller parts all cleaned and ready.
 
I got my 9.25" clutch in the other day (waiting on some of the small parts that were supposed to be with it) Got a couple other big packages of parts including Oil Pump, and Timing Gears. Still waiting on the 9.25" flywheel and all the clutch linkage parts to show up. Should be here soon. I got a line on a Weber DGEV 32/36 Progressive 2bbl carb that I'll be looking at soon.
 
Big auto parts swap meet coming up soon hoping to find some of the odd ball parts I need like a Chrome cup for my 0-6000rpm tach and a 2" cup for the Vacuum gauge, Maybe a Signal Stat 900 turnsignal switch, Also going to look for any solid used Headers that can be cut up and made into the header I want to build. And Electric fan would be something else to look for.
 
All kinds of stuff going on.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 03 Jan. 2015 at 1:11am
WOW big day today.
 
First and foremost I got a nice metal shelf unit to pile all my ready to be assembled parts on (instead of in boxes on the floor of my office) At the same time as I made room for the new shelf I did some rearranging in my shop (not where the Willys project is taking place which is the carport/Garage) and I managed to toss out like 3) 5 gallon cans of crap I didn't need and gained almost 6 sq ft of floor space. Not to mention a bunch of other stuff is now much more organized.
 
THE FLYWHEEL SHOWED UP and it is very nice. A quick run over it with a rotary wire wheel and its almost clean. Ring gear is very useable as is not even worth rotating. I'll get the back side of it painted tomorrow and Monday mid day the wife will drop it off at a local machinist to have it ground (its only going to take a few thousands I just want it all brand new like.
 
Oh and the missing (from an earlier shipment) clutch parts showed up.
 
And I got the Oil pan all painted pretty like. Chassis Black.
 
 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 04 Jan. 2015 at 3:25am
OK I went off the path today and after finding the lost bucket of parts. I decided to restore and upgrade the armored front park lites dad had on Chug. I always liked them compared to others I saw.
 
I wanted to change them to a two element bulb so I have both front parking lights and turn signals (dad only ran turn signals in front) So off to NAPA to find new sockets. Of course the NAPA that's 14 blocks from the house only had one. So I had to run to the one 5 miles away to get the second one.
 
And when I got home I found two of them just like I bought sitting on my work bench (ya think I been inhaling to much spray paint?)
 
SO photo's obviously the first is before:
 
 
And now the pretties all cleaned painted and polished up. I used an aluminum engine paint on them since they were originally a bright zinc plated and I wasn't about to chrome them.
 
 
And of course after doing all the work and making them so pretty. While I was polishing the lense with some Novus Plastic Polish I noticed there was no way that a huge 1157 Bulb was going to fit into them little Amber Plastic lenses. I was momentarily Pissed off. So I come in and start searching the web and sure enough this is also a problem on some light used on a early ford when converting to modern lighting. AND Speedway Motors offers a two element Bulb that is just a ball shape shoved into the brass. Making it almost 1/2" shorter and short enough it has a little breathing space between it and the Plastic lenses.
 
All is happy I really wanted to use these lights as they can be seen pretty well from the side and I like that little bit of safety.
 
Going to add a side lens to the new rear lights I bought (originals just weren't worth the effort) The left Light has a license plate clear lens on the bottom. I'm just going to rotate the cup 90 degrees so that lens faces out and cover it with a Red Gelatin on the inside. Should work well as a side marker light without adding anything to the Willys. I'm planning on using the little license plate bolt/lights to illuminate my rear plate.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Joe Friday
Date Posted: 04 Jan. 2015 at 3:41am
And here I thought you were going LED.


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 04 Jan. 2015 at 6:29am
Nah not much into LED's and I doubt one of them would fit the lens anyway.

-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 07 Jan. 2015 at 7:37pm
SO I got the flywheel backside painted and Monday the wife dropped it off at the local machine shop. He ground just a few thousands off it to make a perfectly clean new surface for my new clutch. I picked it up Tuesday morning.
 
Tuesday morning I sorted through a pile of Jeep parts I got a few years back from a poor guy who's cheating wife had managed to sell the house out from under him and he had a couple weeks to move out. So he offered anyone with a pickup to come load up jeep parts. I been tripping over stuff for 5+ years.
 
I made three piles 1. total junk 2. stuff I will keep to sell on eBay or the forums 3. Stuff my jeep guy who's doing my transmission and handling the machine work on my engine could possibly use. I'm trading the stuff to him for labor doing my Transfer case and Tranny work.
 
So Tuesday morning I loaded the trade goods and the Flywheel, Pressure Plate and Crank pulley up and headed North. The machinist needs the parts to spin balance my engine. Turns out my jeep guy was all to happy to take the stuff I brought him and the results are my tranny transfer case will just cost Parts. He's also going to swap my 1 1/8" shaft transfer case for the later 1 1/4" shaft version with the better bearings. SO good for me.
 
So now my gear boxes are in the hands of the man who will make them all fresh and ready to go. The Machinist has everything needed to complete his work. Only machine work that might be left to do is if the .035" off of the head isn't enough to get to the combustion chamber CC size I need for the compression ratio I am going to.
 
I got a big box from all our friends at Walcks that had the rest of the clutch linkage parts I needed. Now I just have to make the modified link rod (going to spherical rod end joints instead of a bend piece of rod and a cotter pin) I also need to ream the clutch arm out to accept a Bronze bushing I will be using at the pivot. But I think I will hold off on that until I am actually building the linkage so I know I am getting everything correct. Should be super smooth and very durable by the time I am done.
 
I also got one of the little Hood Ornament emblems from a wagon or Pickup that I am going to use along with a horn button from a 66 chevelle to make a custom horn button to fit a Grant Steering Wheel horn kit.
 
I'm going to be building a Banjo style 15" steering wheel (with three spokes made up of 3) 1/4" stainless steel rods threaded into the hub and outer ring made from Industrial grade Canvas base Micarta) to use in the Willys as a way to help make a little room for me tummy.
 
And today is all about cleaning up the Willys side of the carport/garage now that I have gotten rid of a bunch of stuff. 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 12 Jan. 2015 at 5:24am
WOW what a weekend. I got the tranny cross member and skid plate all cleaned up and soaked down with Phosphate. I'll paint them with the frame later since the first coat will be POR-15 and I want to do that mess all at once. POR-15 a Tie Coat Primer then Chassis Black from Martin Senior.

I got my clutch and brake pedals cleaned straightened and painted.

Did a WHOLE bunch of clean up and organization in the Willys shop I can actually walk around in there with out jumping or tripping over something heck I don't even have to turn sideways in most areas.

But today was a total frustration. As many of you know I am making a lot of improvements to my Willys. And one of the things I'm doing is completely upgrading everything about the clutch and brake systems.

Along this path I am putting a bushing in the Brake Pedal Arm. So instead of a steel on steel pivot on the Clutch Pivot Tube its a nice Bronze bushing that when combined with the new zert fitting (1/8" 27T Pipe taper thread found at ACE hardware in the little screw drawers NAPA NO HAVE) should make a very smooth pedal pivot and reduce the chance for wear on the Clutch Pivot tube.

WELL ever try to make a 1" D hole into a 1.125" D hole? I own a milling machine and I own a small lathe I have piles of tooling I have hundreds of drill bits. What I don't have is a dad gum $110.00 reamer.

SO I got the bright idea that "Hey a brake cylinder hone works in that diameter) So I went down to NAPA and bought a $32.00 Brake Cylinder Hone set. And you know what that is the slowest possible way ever to try to enlarge that dammmm hole. I worked at it nearly 45 min of actual cutting time and I enlarged the hole exactly .015" so I only have .110" to go. I have a special insert blade type drill that is used to drill big holes deep into steel it uses a 1" pilot (which even if I order the $17.00 + 13.00 shipping bit the proper size or I grind one of the ones I have down) the hole is now to large to fit the pilot.

Think an Oxy/Acetaline  torch would work???

I'll figure it out but man what a PITA

I'm about to change gears and get serious about getting the frame ready for a welder to come and work on it for a couple hours. I feel the Need the need to BUILD. and I can't do that until I have something to start bolting stuff to. Gotta get the frame painted.



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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 13 Jan. 2015 at 4:33am
Well lets just say today was interesting (cause the mod's might not like 3 paragraphs of cussing) I spent the morning making a special spade bit to fit my large hole drilling tool for the Milling machine only to discover there is no known way to actually clamp that silly arm in such a way to be able to cut it. SO after trying to get somewhere with the brake hone idea I gave up used a thin piece of tin as a spacer to wrap around the pilot section of the tool (its supposed to use a 1" D hole as a pilot hole. But since I had enlarged the hole somewhat and had no way to clamp it I had to make sure it would be self guiding.

And I took a chance. With the arm hitting the column on the milling machine to keep it from turning should the tool catch. I went at it and was doing real good until the tin spacer fell out and the whole mess started chattering. I got the machine shut off and was about an 1/8" from through. I free hand ground that last 1/8" and then used the Brake hone to get it smoothed up.

Used the bench vise to push the bushing in. It felt pretty good. But was to tight for the arm to pivot on the shaft. In trying to use the brake hone to open up the bushing I ended up hour glassing the hole.

FINE I shove the back up bushing (always buy 2 or more) on the shaft and then shove the shaft in the messed up bushing and use a BIG HAMMER to push the new bushing in while making the messed up bushing to leave. Then I spent almost 2 hours working to get the shaft out of the arm and bushing. I had to make a puller of sorts from my clamping set for the milling machine. Which while slow worked.

Once I had the shaft out of the bushing I ran a new set of brake hone stones in the bushing to just barely clean it up. Still to tight for the arm to fit on and pivot. SO I went the other way and put the shaft in the lathe and using some 220 grit and 600 grit I made the shaft about .001-.0015" smaller. Since the shaft pivots in the Clutch shaft mount in a different area then the brake pedal that worked out just fine. I have it tight enough to have only a few thousands of side to side play on the end of the arm where the pedal plugs in but just loose enough for Lubriplate to remain on the shaft when inserted into the bushing. SO another words after a day and a half I managed to bush my brake pedal arm. Something that had I had the $110.00 spiral flute 1.125" reamer would have taken less then 15 min.

But I learned about 4 new ways to use some of the tools in my shop LOL.

Now to drill the hole for the Zert to deliver grease through and rewash the arm so I can get it Phosphated and primed and painted. Put the new pedal clamping bolt and lock washer in it and put it on a shelf.

SOME TIMES THE DRAGON WINS!


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 13 Jan. 2015 at 4:38am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

But I learned about 4 new ways to use some of the tools in my shop LOL.




Not a total waste of a day. LOL Those new ways may be useful in the future.


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Flatfender Ben
Date Posted: 13 Jan. 2015 at 5:25am
Holy crap!! That sounds like one of my shop days.
Glad to hear you won🔨🔨🔨


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 14 Jan. 2015 at 4:08am
Well today was an off day. Got called into work. Good news is $25.00 more Willys money and the payment on the winter Willys budget loan from my 401K gets paid this week out of a pay check instead of my budget.
 
Back at it like I knew what I was doing tomorrow. OH and I got a line on some guy wanting to buy my 66 Chevelle project that stalled out. If that sells the UPS and Fed Ex trucks won't be able to haul the Willys parts to my door fast enough. I will be back on the road by early fall. Soon as I could get the sheet metal done over the summer.
 
Oh there I go dreaming again.
 
Mark W.


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 14 Jan. 2015 at 4:25am
Well good luck on the Chevelle sale!


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 14 Jan. 2015 at 5:19am
OK so I need to put one photo up today. Something I have never seen on a Willys forum before


My Planning and Inspiration board. This is where I put up drawings. photos, printouts and shopping lists for the Willys project. Its actually the doors to the huge cabinet with my Record collection (2600 LPs, 200 7" reel to reel tapes, 600 CD's and 450 Cassettes) I put cork on the outside of the doors so I could use them like a big message board.







-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 14 Jan. 2015 at 3:25pm
That it awesome! Clap


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Joe Friday
Date Posted: 15 Jan. 2015 at 3:22pm
After you've experienced trying to resize a pedal bushing or steering box you will gain an appreciation for a variety of adjustable reamers.


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 16 Jan. 2015 at 1:43am
Yep I am jealous Joe. Tooling has always been a hard squeeze on my budget.
 
SO today was both a good day and a bad day.
 
Last night late I found an ad for a decent looking Weber DGV 32/36 progressive 2 bbl carb the ad said call anytime up to midnight. SO I DID. talked to the guy a while sounded like it was worth a lot more then the $60 he was asking.
 
I made arrangements to go see it today since I had to head into Salem anyway.
 
First stop McGuire Bearing to pickup some Bronze thrust bearings and a couple of Bronze sleeve bearings for the special clutch and brake linkage I am building. GUESS WHAT the goober at the counter after flipping back and forth in some little paper back catalog tells me they don't carry the Thrust bearings (bronze washers) and the sleeve bearing they don't make. I then took the linkage I had with apart and showed him the one I had bought from them about 3 years ago and explained that they do to make them I can find them all over the internet. But I wanted to support my local supplier instead of the Post office or UPS.
 
I walk out to the pickup and realize in the time it took to make a confirmation call to the carb guy and collect up my notebook and the various parts of the linkage and figure out how to carry everything to the store I LOCKED MY KEYS IN THE DAMN TRUCK!!!!
 
So I call the wife who's home sick from Work and remind her she married a moron and would she be so kind as to get dressed and bring me a key.......... I have no idea why she stay with me!
 
OK so back on the quest. I show up at the carb guys place and he's one of them crazy off road rock crawling tube frame Toyota pickup kind of guys. I check out the carb throttle shafts seam tight enough only one part missing and its part of the Water choke linkage I won't be using so I hand him the cash and collect up the carb, a junk air cleaner and the two piece Toyota adapter that might be of some use in the Manifold project.
 
Come home check out the car some more. It will of course need a complete rebuild kit and I'll either have to fab up a nice mechanical choke set up or settle for one of the ones sold on line. And I will need to build a throttle arm but that was expected since I'll have to make all my own linkage.
 
I then get back to some lathe work on the clutch linkage and make a collar to remove the need for the cotter pin just inboard of the clutch arm. That turned out real nice.
 
Then I placed an order with Mc Master Carr for some of them rare washers and bearing I tried to buy local.
 
not a bad day but not as productive as it could have been. GLAD the search for the carb is over. Also real glad rebuilding a Weber is something I have experience at>
 
 


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Joe Friday
Date Posted: 16 Jan. 2015 at 3:01am
I bought my first set of reamers while doing warehouse work for Big A auto parts so they cut me a deal. That entire drawer came from the auction of a local Jeep garage for less than $100 last year.






Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 16 Jan. 2015 at 3:10am
I bought a huge tub of drill bits and taps at a kind of estate sale one time for $15.00 Taps up to 1" and matching drills.
 
I found out the sale was the estate of the neighborhood handyman. He had died some years earlier and his wife who had helped him over the years tried to keep doing things but eventually she passed on as well. With no one to inherit and no will the whole place lock stock and barrel went to the State. The State being the State put the whole mess lock stock and barrel up for auction for a single bid.
 
A young couple just getting stated were the highest bidders and they wanted to get moved in but the house and garage were filled to the gills with the good from the old couple. SO they put a price tag on everything they could find and put out a sign.
 
I bought a $400.00 28' extension ladder for $25.00 an Antique brass and copper fire extinguisher for $20.00 and about 40 lbs of tools for maybe $30.00 bucks. Guys were there filling up pickup trucks with tools it was the craziest sale I ever seen.
 
Went by on Sunday and they didn't have a pickup truck worth of junk left.
 
My place would take some serious professional help to liquidate. And the wife has been collecting names to help her with it when the time comes LOL.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 17 Jan. 2015 at 4:38am
So today was all about the top half of my new carb.
 
first I figured out how to make 3 little nylon bushings to install in the choke shaft holes.
 
then I spent a LONG time trying to figure out how to make something that is Metric fit something made with Std, tools. Once I figured out how to make a bushing that would fit the shaft that was now a little under 6mm while fitting real tight in a hole drilled with a 23/64 drill bit. Then all I had to do was figure out how to clamp the top of the carb and drill out 2 egged out holes and one that wasn't to bad.
 
Got that done. Figured a way to squeeze the bushings in place. Turns out the 3/8" OD bushings fit  real tight in the 23/64 holes and as a result the 1/4" holes I had drilled the bushings out to closed up a bit. Resulting in my having to find a way to ream them out so the appox. .240 shaft would fit. I had a 1/4" long tapered reamer I was able to get the hole on either end. The one in the middle had a nice wear spot on the shaft to rid in. So now the shaft turns pretty well a little tight. Since I am going with a mechanical choke cable that will work out fine and I would rather it wears itself in to be real smooth then wear in to be loose.
 
So now down to the hardware store to scare up some 3mm .50p tiny screws cause the originals did not look so good after my having to use my tiny vise grips to get them out (factory peened in place)
 
Back home and I take some spray carb cleaner a bunch of various brushes and scrub pads and I make the top all pretty and CLEAN. Didn't want to put the new Nylon bushings into the can of Berrymans carb cleaner no telling what I would get back.
 
So now I have to make a new arm for the choke shaft as the one that was on it someone had welded! on clocked wrong. I'll make one that will go with the DIY cable mount and bellcrank I am going to make and then silver solder it on.
 
I'll get a nice photo of my carb work tomorrow and throw it on here.
 
Off to a swap meet tomorrow hoping to find a 2" drop Manual Saginaw Pitman arm. Along with a few other goodies.
 
 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 22 Jan. 2015 at 12:58am
OK been a while I been mostly cleaning up in my shop trying to find a work bench and get some stuff organized after 10 years of neglect.

I did make some good progress on my modified Clutch Shaft/Brake Arm pivot upgrade.

Using one of Willys factory slop adjusters and some parts modified and some new parts here is what I have so far.

OK first The arm is a brand new repop from Walcks very high quality and a very nice weld.




I won't go through all the steps since there was a lot of learning along the way but to get right to it.

The shaft was polished with some 600 grit to a real nice shine.

The weld which is on the right side of the photo above was cut on the lathe so it was slightly smaller and didn't spread out on the arm and shaft so far (I still left way past what would make a strong joint.

I took a 7/8" ID 1.5" OD set screw type shaft collar from ACE and using the lathe reamed it out to 1.00" and then cut a step into it so it would bridge over top of the cleaned up weld and bear on the clutch lever. The clutch lever was also turned slightly to square it to the shaft. I used the ACE collar only because it was less work being so close to what I needed already.

The brake arm itself I detailed above putting a bushing inside it. I now added 1" ID x 1.5" OD x 1/16" thick thrust washers on each side of.

The next part you see as you work your way right from the Brake Pedal Arm is a 1" ID X 1.125" OD x .250" long bushing that will be the inside of the new heavier Clutch Pedal / Brake Pedal shaft to Master Cylinder brace which I will make from some 1/4" angle iron stock I have. I will be using one of Herms Dual Master Cylinder upgrade kits with his mount. I even got some tiny Zerk grease fittings to put into the 1/4" thick brace.

And then you see the large cupped adjusting nut from the Willys Slop removing kit that will adjust the end play on everything. And finally the Nylon insert lock nut that will be the Jam nut to hold the adjustment.

I have completely eliminated the cotter pins and any slop in the stack.

The next step is the Clutch Shaft mount. Which will be made from a block of 1020 cold rolled and have two .125" wall flanged Bronze bushings as well as a hidden Zerk grease fitting. It will be Bolted to the frame in the factory Rivet holes with grade 8 bolts and a couple short welds on each side to make sure. The bushings will be servicable so the mount should never have to come off again once I put it on.

Having everything riding on Bronze bushings and greasable if serviced this should never wear out and if it does I can easily replace any of the bushings to refresh it.

Yes I know over engineering my tractor again. But hey its my thing. Wink


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 22 Jan. 2015 at 2:35am
Nice and shiny!


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 22 Jan. 2015 at 2:59am
Yea once put together and right before I grease it for the first time it will all get a coat of Chassis black to help protect it.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: LesBerg
Date Posted: 22 Jan. 2015 at 5:21am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

..stuff... 
Maybe I can find a Paxton super charger to make up for it LOL.
...stuff... 
Happy Willys owner tonight
I'm with you there. I've seen the Go-Devil belt driven superchargers in poor condition selling in the $5000 range. I didn't hang around to see if they actually sold, but I don't have the cash flow to run in that league.
I picked up a small single turbo from a 2001 Volvo twin-turbo something-or-other from a local salvage yard for $35. My plan is to fab (or have fabbed for me) a set of flanges and set up a draw-through system on my two-year old L134, pushing about 4-5psi of boost.
I did a bit of digging, and it turns out that the (almost)Paxton supercharger kit for the Go-Devil was a two-speed unit, developing 2.5 and 5psi of boost depending on whether it was in low or high 'gear'.
I'm looking for two things out of my turbo setup - holding speed on hills and that distinctly 'military' sound like you hear from a deuce-and-a-half. I know I'll get the first, and I'm hoping for the second. 

-------------
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 22 Jan. 2015 at 5:29am
NICE I want to see that. Since Blower are belt driven and turbos by the exhaust gases not sure you will get the right whine. But you sure will get the right boost in power.

-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 1:15am
So I been up to my Bee Hind in finishing up the fancy Clutch/Brake pedal arm to the Clutch Pedal Shaft and the mount to the frame. I'm pretty happy with the way it all can out.


So here it is my new upgraded and modified factory Clutch and Brake shaft assembly.

 




A little closer view of the assembly. This uses the Willys Factory Pedal Slop fix kit (thats the long bolt running through the center of the assembly and the cupped washer and the hollow adjustment nut followed by the Nylon insert Jam/locking nut) I have done away with the cotter pins and the steel washers. All wear surfaces and pivot points are Bronze Oilite Bearings. And all are serviced by a Gease Zerk.



Just a view from the other side



Bottom view ? Well actually this will be the view from the top when installed. The Mount attaches with 4) G8 5/16"-18T bolts cut to fit the application. You can see the spacer I made from a 7/8" ID x 1 1/2" OD shaft collar. It was just easier to start from the Collar then to make one from scratch on the lathe. But it worked out real well allowing me to lock the collar to the shaft and keeping it from rotating and causing wear.

The space you see to the right of the Brake Pedal arm is where the brace will attach between the shaft assembly and the master cylinder mount. I'm going to be making this from 1/4" T stock and I bought some 10-32T tiny grease zerks so it can be serviced.



OK here is everything laid out.

From the left

3/8"-16T Nylon insert Lock nut

Cupped threaded adjustment Nut for the Willys Pedal Slop Fix Kit

.125"T X 1.00" ID X 1.50" OD Thrust Bearing

.250" W X 1.00" ID X 1.125" OD Bronze Bushing

.065"T X 1.00" ID X 1.50" OD Thrust Bearing

Brake Pedal Arm with 1.00" ID X 1.25" OD Bronze Bearing Pressed into the Arm. Then faced off.

.065"T X 1.00" ID X 1.50" OD Thrust Bearing

Special Shaft collar made with a set cut inside to allow room for weld line on Clutch Lever

Next would come the Clutch Lever mounted on the Clutch Shaft (show in the above line)

Clutch Shaft Assembly to Frame mount

Bronze 1" ID x 1 1/4" OD w/ 1/8" T x 1 1/2" Flange OD

Tube made from 1.5" x 2.75" 1020 Cold Rolled shaft material Bored to an ID of 1.250" Bronze bushings were then Pressed in place. Once assembled the ends of the Tube were faced off square with the Bore.

Bronze 1" ID x 1 1/4" OD w/ 1/8" T x 1 1/2" Flange OD

Once the Tube was assembled and the base of the Mount was roughed out. I took to press the Tube Assembly into the Mount. I guessed as to exactly what the interference fit would be (could have taken a .001 to .002" off the tube and been safe). I placed the Tube in the Freezer. Once it was as cold as it was going to get I put everything in my large bench vise and started pushing the Tube into place. I got about 3/8" in of the 2" it needed to travel to end up centered.

then out came the propane torch and more reefing on the vise. And it got to the point I was tightening the vise ASAP and then wacking the vise with a hammer to shock it into moving. Much like you would break free a gear puller. This got me to about 5/8" from done. When the Vise came off the bench (not to worry it did that once before about 15 years ago) So I resigned myself to have to take it up to the shop at work tomorrow and press it in with the big Hydraulic press..

Wife screams for dinner/Eat dinner

Great Idea. I assemble a reverse gear puller using some of the parts from my Milling machine hold down set. And with it sitting in the vise (now clamped to the bench) and using 2" 18" box end wenches I managed to get it almost perfect. BUT WHAT A PITA. I need a small press.



Some detail on the Mount section showing one of the Bronze bushings and a piece of the shaft material. The actual base is made from a piece of 1.5" x 2" x 4" 1020 Cold rolled Steel I had.



Details showing the protected grease zerk and the backing plate that will go inside the frame. The backing plate which will get welded to the frame.

OK back to the progression down the assembly.

Clutch Pedal Arm

.065"T X 1.00" ID X 1.50" OD Thrust Bearing

Following seen on the upper line.

Cupped Steel Washer from Willys Factory Slop Fix Kit

Steel 3/8" ID washer

3/8"-16T X 8" bolt with the head slightly thinned.

Attached to the Clutch Lever is one of the two Rod ends that will make up the Clutch Push Rod.

There you have it 4+ days of work I enjoy over engineering things.

Next thing like this is the Steering Box mount (525 Manual Saginaw Box) and the brace for it.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: berettajeep
Date Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 1:41am
Wow! That looks really good! ClapClapClap


-------------
Dennis
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-47_topic21227.html" rel="nofollow - '47 CJ2A 101823
http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4942" rel="nofollow - '74 Cherokee


Posted By: Mike S
Date Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 2:46am
Looks nice, Mark. Can I order one?




-------------
'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear
Lock-Right locker
11" drum brakes
Dual master cylinder
T90C Transmission
16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels
Cooper STT Pro tires


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 2:58am
I'm not sure I could make a profit LOL.

I have some drawings and I might make up a how to thread on it later. The killer to DIY this is having the tooling. Even if you had the lathe and mill.




-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 3:41am
Originally posted by Mike S Mike S wrote:

Looks nice, Mark. Can I order one?


 
 
Mike. though not as nicely machined as Mark's example here is an alternative if you are needing a heavy duty one......it's what M38s come stock with.
 
This one is on 'that' auction site but they show up at most swap meets.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


-------------
'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 30 Jan. 2015 at 5:44am
A little update (its been a while) SO I talked to the guy handling my engine rebuild and who's rebuilding my gear boxes. AND I'm pretty happy to find out the Gear boxes are all done. He ended up replacing everything but a shaft and the reverse idler gear in the T90 so that will basically be a new tranny. And the 1.25" transfer case he swapped me into is also almost new inside (he already had that one on the shelf when we made the big deal to trade my extra parts for his labor. The total bill comes in at $427.00 for the two gear boxes (nicely under my $500.00 budget)
 
And he's picking up my engine from the machinist either Sat or Mon depending on when he has the time. Its been off being computer spin balanced. Crank pulley to Pressure plate. And it looks as if the bill on the engine is going to well within the budget I had hoped.
 
SO next week I run up North and pickup some pretty parts and a couple gear boxes ready to go after a good scrubbing and some paint.
 
I have been working on a mount for the Dual Master Cylinder conversion it combines a much heavier mount with an integral heat and rock shield. When I have it done and can test out how all the mechanics work I'll do up some corrected drawings and post the drawings and a bunch of photos. Should have that all in place (temporarily anyway) sometime this weekend. I want to get it all installed and fix anything I don't like before I take it all apart and paint up the pieces. Then it will have to warm a shelf until I get the Steering box mount figured out and can get everything welded and then off to the Sand blasters.
 
I'm going to paint the frame with POR-15 then before it dries I'll spray a Lt Gray primer into it and then once that's setup I'll spray everything with Sherwin Williams Chassis Black. The POR-15 I have is like 20 years old but the company told me that if its still liquid and I can mix it up with a stick it should be good to go! Great I was worried about loosing that investment. Not to mention how much the crap costs now!
 
I'm hoping to have enough to do the frame in one can then the other can I have I'll use on the underside of the tub.
 
OK back this weekend with some photos showing the new clutch shaft assembly and the new master cylinder setup mounted to the frame.
 
  


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 01 Feb. 2015 at 11:40pm
Some Quick Photos of the New Master Cylinder Mount. Its not quite done still the bracket that goes from the mount to the pedal shaft to make (waiting for the layout fluid to dry on the steel so I can scribe it out) and I have to drill another hole for the little bracket between the mount and the upper frame rail. I had to change some things after my first design following measurements from a store bought bracket put the MC way to close to the pedal shaft for my idea of ideal geometry (I know the store bought brackets have to deal with the Ross Steering box I do not since I am going with Saginaw Steering)

I now have the pushrod almost perfectly lined up both horizontal and vertical to piston in the MC. I may build a new pushrod using a Rod end and a Threaded rod because now the MC has more stroke then the original pushrood was designed for and part of the adjustment collar actually enters the MC when the pedal arm is fully depressed.

I'm also going to make a little pedal stop to make sure the pedal arm can't hit the top of the MC. Like when bleeding the brakes or something.

I have 5" of pedal travel and can't imagine that I will need any more then that. I double checked and I can bottom out the MC while keeping the pedal arm just 1/8" off the top of the MC.  I guess I'll find out when I start assembling the chassis and can actually test the brakes. And then when the floor is in place I can proof the pedal arm position.

Once finished I'll pull everything apart sandblast all the parts and give them a good painting with etching primer and chassis black. All the bolts once they are cut to length and all the nuts and washers will go into a baggie waiting for the frame to be finished. And I get to start a final assembly.

One of the few things I learned from all those drama queen hot rod shows on TV is to completely build the custom stuff then take it apart, paint it and reassemble it. Rather then just blast paint all over the various assembles. That way no hidden areas are unprotected and you make your mistakes before you end up screwing up the paint job.




This is a CJ5 frame so its different as to how the tranny cross member mounts. On the inside of the frame there was a .100" doubler spot welded on. I removed that and replaced it with the part that becomes the heat shield. The stack of 1/4" piece you see are to level things out because of wanting to tie the MC bracket to one of the Pedal Shaft Mount bolts.



In this photo you can see the horizontal alignment of the pushrod as well as the master cylinders distance from the frame rail (about 1/4") no need to grind into the frame rail.



Front view of the gap between the MC and the frame.



Vertical view



Rear View



View under the MC and the edge of the heat shield. Had I not had to change the design after I built the first bracket moving the MC 1.5" farther away from the Pedal Shaft the 45 degree section of the heat shield would have been an integral part of the shield. But moving it exposed the front of the MC to direct exhaust heat so this is the fix I came up with.



Detail showing how its all bolted together. While I did the majority of the work over top of the frame I have made sure that without to much cussing and screaming I can take everything back part from under the jeep so servicing the MC when it comes time shouldn't be a problem.

So I'll add a couple more photos to this series once the bracket to the Pedal shaft is done and I have all the proper nuts and bolts in place.

I'm seriously thinking about drilling a few 1/8"D registration pin holes while its all aligned and to make it a little easier to reassemble. I would drill the holes and ream them to exactly 1/8" and use some drill rod pins I have to hold the parts in place while the nuts and bolts are tightened.

OK back to the shop I'm sure the Layout fluid is dry by now.






-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 02 Feb. 2015 at 6:05am
OK super quick update. I got the little pedal shaft brace/bracket finished. Pretty weird shaped thing to make from a piece of angle iron. When I went to bore the 1.125" holes in it to hold the bushing. I couldn't find that stupid large hole spade bit I made the other day anywhere. So I cut down a short lathe bit and mounted it in the large hole mandrel and used it like a boring bar. Worked a treat as my mom would say. The bushing pressed in with just the right amount of tension. I drilled the #21 hole to thread with a 10-32 tap for the tiny grease zerk I got so even it will be serviceable.

And then I went to clamp it in place to double check everything before I drilled the holes to mount it. AND IT WAS BINDING THE PEDAL SHAFT just a tiny amount but enough that with the close tolerances I have on everything I couldn't move the Clutch lever without serious effort.

So I took a close look to see where and how it was causing it to bind up and saw that if I ground the base of the brace/bracket at a very slight angle (hey them 14 years I spent making my living making hand made knives paid off I'm real good at free hand grinding flat angles LOL) I could get it to mount up and not bind. So 30 min of fiddling around and that problem was solved.

OK here's the last photos on this until after they are painted and reassembled on the painted frame.






But tonight I am pretty happy with how it turned out. Sure the OCD anal retentive nut who over engineers everything inside me thinks just one more version and it could be so perfect. Luckily the guy who wants to drive this thing before I'm dead has over ruled him and one more day is all it gets then into the sand blaster and Paint.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 02 Feb. 2015 at 9:48pm
So I get the call the engine machine work and both gear boxes are ready to be picked up. The gear boxes are almost completely new inside. The engine is honed to fit the pistons, hard seats, crank and rods ground .010 under, Computer Spin Balanced. I still need to buy bearings and the gaskets/seals.

I should have some photos in a couple days.

both excited and a little scared.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: 54willysjeep
Date Posted: 03 Feb. 2015 at 2:52am
where can you find the WILLYs pedal slop kit?
or did you make it?

-------------
54 Willys CJ3B (Rikki-Bobby's Jeep)
42 GPW14359 Cal "Shake n' Bake's Jeep" Dallas TX plant. Missing everything when I got it.


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 03 Feb. 2015 at 5:24am
I found it on my Willys. Dad must have had it put on in the 60's he was good friends with the Jeep dealerships mechanic in Salem. And the Jeep club he was a charter member of had its meetings in the shop at the dealership. So I would assume a lot of things like the Pedal slop kit was well known among his running buddies at the time.

The only thing that would need to be made is the big adjustment nut. And that could easily be done on a lathe from some Octagon shaped stock. You can buy small amounts of that from an on line metal dealer like "on line metals" or "speedy metals" The cupped washed on the other end could be made from round stock. the bolt is a hardware store 3/8"-16T x 8" grade 5 bolt.

If you want to try making the two pieces I can post some drawings of their dimensions  tomorrow.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: 54willysjeep
Date Posted: 04 Feb. 2015 at 1:20am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

I found it on my Willys. Dad must have had it put on in the 60's he was good friends with the Jeep dealerships mechanic in Salem. And the Jeep club he was a charter member of had its meetings in the shop at the dealership. So I would assume a lot of things like the Pedal slop kit was well known among his running buddies at the time.

The only thing that would need to be made is the big adjustment nut. And that could easily be done on a lathe from some Octagon shaped stock. You can buy small amounts of that from an on line metal dealer like "on line metals" or "speedy metals" The cupped washed on the other end could be made from round stock. the bolt is a hardware store 3/8"-16T x 8" grade 5 bolt.

If you want to try making the two pieces I can post some drawings of their dimensions  tomorrow.
 
that was my thinking as well that big adjustment nut would have to be made from something. I don't have a lathe at home but at work I do. I would like to make a couple of those. I found something online about it and I have it bookmarked on my tablet.
 
I would like to know the dimensions of it so I can find the stuff. I may have some octagonal stock at work.
 
What I find funny is that no one is making these to sell. I'm sure there are plenty of people who own jeeps that would love to have one on their jeep.
 
I would appreciate the dimensions of the two pieces.


-------------
54 Willys CJ3B (Rikki-Bobby's Jeep)
42 GPW14359 Cal "Shake n' Bake's Jeep" Dallas TX plant. Missing everything when I got it.


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 04 Feb. 2015 at 3:16am
I will PM them to you ASAP


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 05 Feb. 2015 at 12:05am
WOWZER WOWZER I got me an engine and two beautiful gear boxes.

The Engine has been all machined and is ready to reassemble and scrub up and paint.

Since I know all of you want to know what was done.

Cleaned, Inspected, and Magnafluxed
Blocked bored .060" over final lapped to the pistons
Decked .007"
Installed 8 Hardened valve seats Valves ground and lapped
R&R Valve guides installed new
R&R Cam bearing
new soft plugs installed
New oil galley plugs installed
Rods reconditioned
Installed pistons on rods
Crank Checked and polished (it was already .010" under and needed no regrind)
Head surfaced .035"
Complete rotating assembly from pulley to pressure plate balanced

I will be doing the reassembly of the engine with all new parts including an NOS Willys camshaft and NOS Tappets New Timing gears Oil Pump etc.

On the Gear boxes virtually the whole interior of the T-90 is new (he reused the reverse Idler)
The 1.25" D-18 he swapped me for my 1.125" D-18 going from 26T to 29T he put a set of real nice used gears and a complete kit.

So both boxes he says should out last me. If taken care of (which of course they will be)

I had everything done by Washougal Classic Jeep in Washougal WA. I couldn't be happier with how Richard handled my engine and rebuilt my gear boxes. So at the point of a guy who just picked up his stuff I couldn't be happier. He's very good at what he does. I have seen his finished restoration work and its very nice.

Anyone in the area would be ahead to talk to Richard if they need an Engine machined or (this is his specialty) Gear boxes rebuilt. www.washougalclassicjeep.com IMHO

Now I have some stuff to work on LOL.




-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mike S
Date Posted: 05 Feb. 2015 at 12:58am
Rapid progress, Mark. Having fun, too!

-------------
'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear
Lock-Right locker
11" drum brakes
Dual master cylinder
T90C Transmission
16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels
Cooper STT Pro tires


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 05 Feb. 2015 at 1:08am
Well I gotta get as much done as possible during the winter with construction season about 6 weeks away once work starts we put in 60 hours a week and after wrestling the dump truck and pup for 8-12 hours a day I'm pretty tired. And the few days off always have something going on like Hiney do's so Winter is my project time.



-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: cpt logger
Date Posted: 05 Feb. 2015 at 9:08am
Just to be clear, I am going to ASSuME that you meant that you are very happy with Richard's work. You are recommending the workmanship of Washougal Classic Jeep in Washougal, WA. Right?

So, you could NOT be happier with their work. The way you said it leaves some shadow of a doubt. I know, I know, I am being picky here, but this drives me nuts! Again, just to be clear, they are good folks! Yes?

It is a wonderful feeling when the pretty, shiny, clean parts come back from the machine shop. I look forward to more updates as they happen. 

Thanks, Cpt Logger.


Posted By: Mike S
Date Posted: 05 Feb. 2015 at 6:07pm
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

 
Mike. though not as nicely machined as Mark's example here is an alternative if you are needing a heavy duty one......it's what M38s come stock with.
 
This one is on 'that' auction site but they show up at most swap meets.
 
 
 

Roc - thanks for the tip. Not sure I need "heavy duty", but it never hurst to use a little overkill when doing a total rebuild…




-------------
'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear
Lock-Right locker
11" drum brakes
Dual master cylinder
T90C Transmission
16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels
Cooper STT Pro tires


Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 05 Feb. 2015 at 6:36pm
Just wanted you to know that it was available as an off the shelf part....a little more 'precise' maybe than the standard piece. Not quite the piece the machined one is I'm sure though.
 
 
 


-------------
'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 06 Feb. 2015 at 4:24am
Thanks, Cpt Logger. for some bizarre reason I seam to have some sort of Typing impediment when it comes to contractions. I find myself leaving off the 'nt all the time especially in chat. I guess I'm some sort of idiot savant. Or maybe just an idiot LOL.  I have gone back and corrected the mistake.
 
And just so everyone is clear working with Richard on this was a joy and should I ever have another engine or gear box project I would not hesitate to have him handle the next one.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: cpt logger
Date Posted: 07 Feb. 2015 at 2:49am
Mark, glad to hear that. I now know of a good shop out your way. All of the shops that I used to use out that way, have either moved, changed hands, or went out of business.

I still have friends & family asking who I would recommend for mechanical & machine work. Odd, as I have not lived in the PNW for over 25 years. 

Thanks again, Cpt Logger.


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 11 Feb. 2015 at 1:57am
UPDATE time. since I am a little bit short on cash to buy the last of my internal engine parts I pickled the block and head to prevent rust. It will only be a couple weeks until I can get it put together.  Just waiting on the tax refund (already been close to a week)

SO I been working on my Saginaw Steering conversion. As some of you know from my thread on Saginaw steering I am putting a Saginaw 525 24-1 6.5 turn manual box mounted with the top bolt flange right at the level of the top of the frame. This allows the input shaft to pass under the front cross member (my frame is an early CJ5 Frame) I'll be running the steering shaft so it passes just under the outside of the left motor mount. I'll use a steel coupler at the input shaft to a Double D shaft I'll machine from some nice 3/4" 1020 shaft material I have. As soon as the shaft is past the motor mount I'll run it through a Heim Bearing and then right away it will go to a U-Joint and a short section of shaft to a second U-Joint and to the end of the column just past the bearing I will mount on the firewall.

Any way enough of the plan. I will be running a strut from the housing on the output shaft on the steering box to cross over and attach to the frame rail on the opposite side. To do this I had to make a clamp to go around the housing (dang hardware store didn't even have one close) SO I scared up some 3/4" thick 1020 cold finish I had left over from some Belt grinder I used to build. And after a day and a half of head scratching this came out.





It works out pretty well I may have to slightly adjust the width of the groove the 1/2" Rod end will fit into. And I want to add a pair of little set screws to lock it in place on the housing since the housing has a slight taper (wow was that fun trying to match)



-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 1:10am
Photos tomorrow but a little up date. I spent today sandblasting a few things and getting a few others painted (can't waste good weather) So now the Transmission hump cover and the two beauty rings for the shift boots are painted and ready to go when the time gets here.
 
I sandblasted and Phosphate coated the Frame to Body mount brackets I need to add to my CJ5 frame so that I have some place to bolt the tub in all the places the tub has to be bolted to the frame. The left side bracket under the tank bolt hole was missing as were the two that catch the lip at the bottom of the raiser. I still have to locate and install the two grill corner brackets. But since I currently have the frame upside down to drill holes for the Saginaw steering brace (output housing to right frame underside) I figured I would do those when I wouldn't have to stand on my head.
 
I got a nice 1/2" thick block about 1.25" wide and 4" long to weld into the frame on the right side as a captive nut for the right side of my Steering box brace. Now I have to decide if I want to buy a 1/2"-20T left hand tap so I can adjust the brace like you would a tierod. I have a few Left hand Taps but of course no 1/2" fine. Not like I'll find a lot of use for it after this brace is done.
 
I need to scare up some .375" ID steel tubing 3/4" to 1" OD to make the actual brace out of. and of course the two Rod Ends.
 
I need to locate the spacer that will go inside the frame between the boxing plate and the outside of the frame to run the one upper steering box mount bolt. Its going to be fun as its right at the very top so drilling the hole for it with the curve in the frame corner is going to require some sort of drill jig.
 
So I'll get some photos of the pretty new painted parts and the new brackets later and post them here.
 
I'm getting really close to having all of my frame modifications and fabrications done so hopefully here soon I'll be getting everything welded up. I heard a rumor that my drivers bonus at work should be given out next week so I'll be able to have the welding done then off to the sand blaster and after a weekend away from home I can get some Paint on the frame and start building a Willys.
 
Should be getting on assembling the engine within the next week or two as well.
 
Going to be some dramatic changes once that frame gets painted.
 
 
 
 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 3:43am

I hesitate to ask but why would it need to be adjusted?



-------------
'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 4:11am
Oh actually a good question. The clamp tightens by action of the 1/4"-28T socket head bolt. As it tightens the clamp around the steering box it also tightens the slot the 5/8" wide Rod end fits into. SO if tight on the clamp is to tight for the Rod end then I will mill or file a little off the sides of the slot to open it up. Adjusting it to fit the Rod end. 
I also designed the clamp so that I can also go up to a 5/16"-24T bolt should I find it needs more clamping force. I doubt it will since when its tight I can't move it rotationally with a hammer blow. And the force acting on it will be linear in line with the brace so no direct force acting on it will be trying to loosen the clamp. BUT you never know.
 
I will also have a safety washer between the clamp and the pitman arm so that should somehow the clamp come loose it wouldn't be allowed to interfere with the movement of the pitman arm.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: rocnroll
Date Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 4:23am
Dang. I guess I really underbuilt mine.....that's alot of thinking, hope mine never loosens up.
 
 
 


-------------
'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"


Posted By: Zuma58
Date Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 5:01pm
I had everything done by Washougal Classic Jeep in Washougal WA. I couldn't be happier with how Richard handled my engine and rebuilt my gear boxes. So at the point of a guy who just picked up his stuff I couldn't be happier. He's very good at what he does. I have seen his finished restoration work and its very nice.

Anyone in the area would be ahead to talk to Richard if they need an Engine machined or (this is his specialty) Gear boxes rebuilt. www.washougalclassicjeep.com IMHO

Mark, is this the Richard in Washougal who has a jeep junk yard? I haven't met him yet but have talked to him on the phone a few times, I am looking for a better tub and it sounds like he may have a few. I need to get up to his place and take a look, I didnt know hw does machine work as well, this is cool!

-------------
Steve
Long May You Run!!!


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 9:28pm
Zuma I don't know if you would call what Richard has a junk yard I would say the majority of the 20 or so Jeeps around his place are possible projects. But we didn't really talk about what used parts he might sell.

I will say he's connected to everyone from his machinist to doing parts testing for OMIX-ADA so if you need something he's an excellent place to start looking. Let him know I recommended him. I promised him I wouldn't stop talking about him.




-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 16 Feb. 2015 at 3:09am
OK a Bunch of Steering box mount photos. I mounted it lower then some guys do. But I wanted it to run under the motor mount instead of through it or above it. And I didn't want to cut into my cross member. This way its a nice straight line to pass just under the motor mount. A simple spline to 3/4" DD coupler will attach the Shaft to the box. Past the motor mount it will go through a frame mounted bearing and then to a U-Joint and a short section of shaft then another U-Joint and to the bottom of the column. This should give me about a 22.5-25 degree angle on the U-Joints well under the 30 degrees they are rated for so no problems with binding. There will be a firewall mounted bearing at the bottom of the column. So the column will be very well supported at the same time the 3 piece shaft will have a safety effect as it can't push into the drivers chest in a wreck.

I need to figure out the bolt for the top ear of the box (I have a temp made from some all thread in the photos) I want some sort of button head because the tire might get close to the frame in that area.  The curve of the frame is so close it makes a clean bolt head a problem. There's a hidden spacer inside the frame to hold the boxing steel or the frame from being crushed by the bolt. And another that spaces the boxing plate near the cross member.  It will be welded in place on the outside of the frame where it steps down to pass through the frame. I might end up using a Socket head nut on the upper steering box bolt its really hard to get a wrench on it.

Anyway enjoy feel free to critique and ask questions.





How do you like my taped on Motor Mount. Remember this is a CJ5 Frame so the left motor mount was not setup for a 2A engine mount plate. Originally it was a cobbled up mess. I got a proper 2A mount mount a while back and cleaned it all up and will be welding it in its proper place.


Thinking about drilling a couple drain holes in the bottom of the frame horns to help with drainage. I might also just notch the boxing plates. I don't want water to get trapped.



Yes that is Original Black paint on the frame along with Orange over spray from dads paint job.


This shows the Right frame mount for the steering box brace. Inside the frame is a block of 1020 steel threaded for the two mounting bolts and the 1/2" bolt that will anchor the Rod end on this end of the brace.




Bonus Fat guy working on Body mount brackets Photo feel free to download and print a personal copy for your shop wall. Please no poster sized prints I sell those.



Later,


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: windyhill
Date Posted: 16 Feb. 2015 at 3:35am
Ha! nice shot.Clap  I used the same box on my 3b setup, I like the feel of a Manuel box.  Question, do you have any play in the box? Mine only has about 2000 miles on it but if I can rotate the shaft about 3/16" back and fourth without my pitman arm moving?  I'm wondering if I got a bad box or if it can be adjusted.  I did mess with the screw on top but it didn't seem to help.

My mount is very similar to yours, and I to mounted it so the shaft would just clear the crossmember (a little diff as I have a tube crossmember on the 3B) Looks good!


-------------
'48 CJ2A
'53 CJ3B
'59 CJ6
'65 CJ5
'67 CJ5


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 16 Feb. 2015 at 3:50am
Windy Speedway motors has a page on adjusting the boxes let me find it for you. Mine is pretty tight I expect to have to loosen it a little bit. My box was NOS when I bought it had never been installed. I have a really nice used one as well I am keeping as a back up or for a future project.

Saginaw 525 instructions

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-32204.pdf

Hope it helps


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: windyhill
Date Posted: 16 Feb. 2015 at 5:07pm
Thanks. I get a little bit of "death wobble over 45mph sometimes and everything else seams tight.  I'll try the instructions and adjust it a bit it's been a while. 



-------------
'48 CJ2A
'53 CJ3B
'59 CJ6
'65 CJ5
'67 CJ5


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 17 Feb. 2015 at 3:53am
SO not really an up date but I am not sure what else to call it.

I'll take another couple days but I think I have run out of stuff to get ready for the welder to come work on all the stuff on my frame.

If I can't come up with anything else to do soon. I'm going to call him make and appointment Buy him a couple cases of beer and then the day before he shows up I am going to sand blast every joint I want him to weld up. So its super clean for him. Then I have to figure out what order to do everything so nothing ends up welded behind a boxing plate or something.

Then a day or two to smooth some of the welds and it will be ready for the sand blaster and Paint.

Hey I guess I need to buy the POR-15 I decided that using 15+ year old unopened POR-15 just isn't worth the risk. And I'll need to lay in a supply of Primer and the Chassis Black I want to use.

In about 3 weeks I could actually be starting assembly. Instead of working on parts and pieces.


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: cpt logger
Date Posted: 17 Feb. 2015 at 5:29pm
That is good news! I like your style. Keep up the good work, & thanks for sharing. 


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 17 Feb. 2015 at 6:44pm
I love show and tell

-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 20 Feb. 2015 at 2:20am
OK much Drama yesterday and today.

Upon carefully inspecting my crank I found that the rear seal surface was much cleaner then it had been but was still not very good.

So this morning I took it down to the local Machinist who I trust to see what he thinks about it.

He told me flat out no seal would properly seal against the surface in the condition it was in and fixing it was beyond his shops ability. he suggested I call a Crank Grinding Shop in Portland.

So I did and after talking to a couple shops on the phone I decided to run the crank up to Crankshaft City and talk to Kelly there. The shop was an old school place with some equipment dating back to WWII along with some very modern looking equipment and parts and pieces and stuff stacked to the ceiling. Kelly was obviously very very experienced.

We talked a while he checked out the seal surface he looked up the bulletin on the crank seals on his computer and then consulted a number of specification books and we agreed the surface was shot. And that while the bearing surfaces for the mains and rods looked really nice they measured right at the service point and wouldn't last long before they needed to be cut. We talked about the option of swapping to one of the 134 cranks he had in stock and how that would effect my balanced assembly.

We decided the best most cost effective option was to have the seal surface cut down until the two areas of damage could be removed while not cutting beyond 2.300" the limit given in a number of discussions of this problem. He has between .007" and .008" to work with before reaching that 2.300" limit. He didn't think the damage areas were that bad and should clean up before reaching 2.300" He also said this option would have the least if any effect on the balance job since he would be taking equal amounts off both sides of the rotation since all 4 rod journals measured the same.

As to the Main bearings and Rod bearing surfaces he is cutting them to .020" under so I will have a properly clearanced crank with all the mileage I should expect before it needs to be cut again.

The work will set me back $165.00 and maybe a week before I can assemble the engine. But I think its a lot better option then cussing at the world laying on my back in a puddle of motor oil wishing I had gotten it done correctly in the first place.

In defense of Richard at Washougal Classic Jeeps he followed what the machinist said. And the Crank would have worked fine as is with nothing but the polish on the bearing surfaces. The seal surface would have leaked to some degree for sure. And the charge for work to the crank was only $39.00 so its not like I'm loosing a big investment in the crank.

SO its on to making sure the frame is ready for the Welder. As it looks like that could come sooner now that I'm not assembling the engine for a while.




-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 21 Feb. 2015 at 8:40pm
OK One step back. I was reading a couple of newly posted threads on doing a Saginaw steering upgrade and I realized I had not taken into account the position of the Tie Rod and the pitman arm swing. SO I ran into Salem and Measured a stock (as far as the frame and steering goes 56 CJ5 to get the position of the Tie rod and I put my box about 2"-2.5" to far to the rear for it to clear the Tie Rod while in use The drag link would have actually had to cross over the Tie Rod.
 
So now I have a jig setup that shows me where to expect the Tie Rod to travel (had to do when you don't own it yet) and I will have to move the mount back to fit. Luckily I only need to drill two holes. One in the boxing plate and another in the frame rail to set it back. Glad I found this screw up before I had the whole mess welded up.
 
I'll have my welder close up the hole in the frame I'm not using and grind it smooth. No use showing off my screw up.
 
This also ends up angling my output housing brace instead of it running straight across like I wanted. Not sure if I'll change that. Functionally I don't think it makes any difference. 
 
Well I wondered what I was going to work on today.
 
 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 24 Feb. 2015 at 12:55am
 
 
Ok so long story short. I been wrestling with the position of the steering box for a couple days. I think I have it where it needs to be and I have made a few changes with some of the other things in the front of the frame. Its very close to being ready to weld.
 
So another day to triple check everything and to write up a step by step plan of attack for the Welding. I'll give the guy a call soon as that's done. Then I want to make sure we have some help as it looks like we will be flipping the frame a few times in the process. Time to stock up on Beer for the Welder and button hole my Son and the Son inlaw to have them here to help.
 
Then I have to drag the thing out in the driveway to sandblast all the joints and get them real nice and clean.
 
Back on track. And waiting for the Crank to be finished. So I can start putting the engine together.
 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 26 Feb. 2015 at 2:18am
 
 
A couple snap shots. And a thought. A couple years ago I had some money saved up to get the engine rebuilt. And before I could spend it on the engine I blew it on a small lathe. The lathe sat there in the shop I hardly ever did anything with it. I got to the point I was pissed at myself for buying it.
 
Now I am actually working on the jeep every day and I am spending hours on top of hours on the lathe making parts and things for the Willys project. Funny how that worked out.
 
Finished the Steering box brace (still need a couple rings of weld around the threaded inserts) did almost all the work for it on the lathe
 
 
Ok Steering box Brace tube. Its just cheap black pipe I had laying around. I reamed the weld seam out of the inside. I made 2) threaded inserts to press into each end. Then locked them in place with 2) 1/4"D swedged pins at 90 degrees to each other. The little channel on the end will be filled with weld. I spin the tube on the lathe and cleaned the surface up nice for painting. It was a little nerve racking coming up with the proper length without having the rod ends in hand. But Mcmaster Carr where I got the rod ends coming from has excellent mechanical drawing of the parts on their web site. And I have about a half inch of adjustment factored in. Should have almost a full inch of thread engagement.
 
 
And here is a close up of the end
 
 
 
And I thought I would throw in a photo of the inside of the right frame rail since I have the boxing plate off. You can see the threaded block (to allow stuff to be bolted to the frame rail after its boxed and then the Bumper blocks and the Steering box brace mount.
 
By having the blocks trapped inside the boxed frame rails it allows me the option of removing the front bumper to put a narrow one on for off road use or to use those spots as attachment points for a tow bar or tow hooks even a brush guard should I chose to use one. other wise I would be very limited once the rails were boxed. On the far left of the photo you can just see the two drain holes I put in the bottom of the frame to allow water to drain out quickly (remember the frame is upside down in this photo)
 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 27 Feb. 2015 at 11:56pm
BAD BAD DAY today.
 
I get a package from Army Jeep Parts with the NOS Rear Seal in it. And the Seal is completely roached. Falling apart in the package. So I have to take photos of it and write an email asking for a refund and I don't have a rear seal so no can put engine together this weekend.
 
OH wait it really doesn't matter
 
I get a call while at NAPA that the Crank is ready to be picked up. Then the guy tells me he's not happy with the rear seal surface and he's not going to charge me for the work until its in place and working properly!!!!!! That don't sound good.
 
So I run to the AMT to grab some cash in case and head up to Portland (hour 15 to the shop) I get about 20 min up the road and the phone rings. Machine shop tell me to turn around and go home. He won't let the crank out of the shop the way it is and is going to make his crank grinder do it better (GAWD I HOPE NOT CUT UNDER 2.300") so I head  home.
 
I really don't understand (speaking from the inner 10 year old) WHY THIS HAS TO BE SUCH A PITA)
 
And on top of all that SPOK died today!


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 28 Feb. 2015 at 9:47pm
OK so more photos and a special treat I get to show off a fancy I made for the engine.
 
First the Steering Box Brace complete and ready for the welder to squirt a little steel into the grooves
on the ends to double lock the threaded inserts in place
 
 
 
 
And now the pretty I made that will sit on the top of my HOT ROD 134L
 
I took a Jegs brand 75degree O-ring seal Chevy Thermostat housing and made a completely new base for it that will mate to the head on my engine. It was a little tricky for me as I am not real experienced with my lathe yet. But I put a piece of 3/4" plywood on my face plate and then center drilled it with a 1/2" bit. I then took the roughed out triangles and center drilled them with a steel bit. I then went to the hardware store and found some 3/4" long spacers that would just fit the 3/8" bolt holes in the two 3/8" thick plates. I then put each piece on the face plate using the spacers as locator pins and some #14 wood screwed to hold it against the face plate.
 
After making sure it was running true to the bit I cut the bottom section first where the thermostat drops into. I figured if I screwed it up I could use it for the top since the hole in it is much larger. It worked well I could have cut .020-.030" deeper to get rid of the slight gap when its bolted together but no matter it works. Then I relocated the top piece (the three bolt holes are not equally placed so I could use the first spacers to locate both pieces). And that worked out pretty good I had to estimate the angle of the clamp since it was to small to really measure
 
Once I had it done I used a little valve lapping compound to get a good match and then I ground both plates to the same profile and did a little polishing. I will finish polish it to a nice brushed finish right before I install it on the engine.
 
So did I find a way to pretty up that ugly TEA POT sticking out of the middle of our engines?
 
 
The tapered section was a challenge as I have done very few tapered cuts on the lathe and this is the first one internally.
 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 4:09am
Busy day today. I ran up to Portland and got my Crank from Crank City. The mains and rod journals look really really good at .020". The rear seal surface has been cut to the minimum 2.300" and there is still a very small almost crack shaped flaw in the middle of the 1/2" wide surface. It looks to be about 1/2" long. I'm now going to use a rope seal after talking with Ron Fitzpatrick and a couple others  in the know. So the idea it wouldn't seal with the little flaw in the middle is not worth worrying about. And since no one can direct me to a safe neoprene seal I guess rope is the way to go.
 
I ordered bearings from Vintage Jeep Parts they have the best price and when I talked to them they said they only sold name brand bearings either Celivite 77's or Federal Mogul.  I asked for Celivite 77 if they had them.
 
I got home and went to work finishing up cleaning all the surfaces that will be welded on the frame. I now have all the parts and pieces either sandblasted or power sanded with the angle grinder. And wrapped in plastic since I still don't know when my welder well be able to do the work. I have one or two areas left to do but that I'll finish up tomorrow with the grinder.
 
It was interesting as I was sand blasting areas inside the frame rails I was blowing off the dirt and what looked like rust. But was actually just rust as there was still a few thick coat of black paint on the insides of the frame. Quite a bit on the outside to. Guess all them years in the dark hiding in dads shed really paid off. 
 
I am hoping I am past the engine problems and once I can collect up all the small bits and pieces (gaskets mostly) I can get this engine into one assembly.
 
Our start up meeting for work is in two Fridays so I figure I have maybe 3-4 weeks before the majority of my time will be in a dump truck or sleeping instead of working on Chug.
 
But I am very happy with my progress so far. If I can get the frame Painted and the engine assembled and painted then I will be a very happy camper for one winters work.
 
 
The Welder guy was just here. He's all enthused to get started. Looks like this coming weekend I could be getting my frame welded. He's going to take the small part to his place and TIG weld them so he can do a nicer looking job. The big stuff he will wire weld here.
 
We agreed on the exchange rate $50.00 for his materials and gas. And a couple cases of his favorite amber fluid.
 
OH I want this frame painted SO BAD. 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 09 Mar. 2015 at 12:57am
Good grief. Today the wife who has been under a tremendous amount of stress at work wanted to GO do something. So we went garage saleing Found a great buy on a coffee can of Socket head bolts some assembly lube and a couple piano hinges (all for $2.00)
 
SO I get home and since I have vowed to accomplish something on the Willys every day no matter how minor. I decide to check and see what the orifice in the timing gear jet is. Looked pretty big to me earlier. Sure enough I check and its one of the .070" early ones. So I think of how to best reduce it to the recommended .040" and my great over engineering mind decides I should drill it out to a #29 drill bit then thread it with a 8-32 tap and put a small section of a 8-32 stainless screw in it and drill the proper hole.
 
Well I should have known something wasn't right when I couldn't get the tiny #60 drill bit (.040") to core the screw in the lathe. BUT no I have to put the screw into the jet and then the bit into my dremel. The results were two wasted #60 drill bits and a hole about 1/4th of the way through the threaded piece.
 
SO now I take the dremel and a cut off bit and cut a tiny screwdriver slot in the screw section so I can get it out. I then run down to the hardware store and buy 3) 8-32 BRASS screws and 2) #60 drill bits.
 
This goes much better I core the brass screw on the lathe,  I screw it into the hole as hard as I can with the biggest best fitting screw driver I can find. I then grind off the round head leaving a thin head with a little counter sunk .040" hole through it. I then come in from the other side with a bit that matches the center hole on the Jet and drill out the excess brass screw inside, I then make sure the jet hole is clear and I light test it to make sure there is no chips hiding (shine a small flash light from both directions checking for obstructions.
 
And I have it done and that stupid little project only took a bit over 2 hours!!!
 
LOL time to order some engine parts. back to work this next week I think. The Willys work will slow down but the Budget will grow.
 
Mark W.


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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962


Posted By: Mark W.
Date Posted: 13 Mar. 2015 at 11:15pm
SO lots happening not all good. Received my Bearings MADE IN CHINA so those are going back have another set of Clevite 77's on order. So if I get lucky maybe NEXT weekend I can put the engine together.
 
A few other parts showed up Crankshaft shims, Motor and tranny mounts, and the spin on oil filter mount.
 
But yesterday I decided to make some thing HOT ROD for the Willys so I made a fancy custom one of a kind Oil fill tube!
 
I used some 1.25" .065" wall tubing I got off ebay. And three parts of a 1940-50's era Leica camera extension tube set, and some MICARTA and other little things around the shop.
 
The wife designed the cap on top of the breather.
 
PHOTOS:
 
 
 
 
 
 
Its all press fit together you know where you hit it with a hammer and pray its not going to seize up half way to assembled. The cap was the hardest part to make first I had to remove the threads then turn a plug that I could press fit into the threaded portion. Then I made a steel drill jig to get the holes properly spaced not to bad for a drafting compass and some layout fluid.  The foam breather filter is replaceable and I have a bunch of them already cut.
 
The threaded hole in the middle of the cap will hold the dip stick a nut will lock it in place. I will make the 1/4" D aluminum dip stick once I get the engine assembled so I can properly calibrate it for FULL and 1 QUART LOW marking. I want to see how this all stands up next to the engine before I finish it. I made it about 3" longer then stock so I could decide once installed if I wanted the whole top section above the head or if I liked it better beside the head. I'll also make a little aluminum clamp to hold the top section in place. If I made another (highly unlikely) I would have gotten .083" wall tubing and looked into an O-ring seal at the bottom. But that would have made adjusting the height a PITA.
 
When its all done all adjusted and ready to go on the engine for good I'll redo the scotch brite satin finish on it and give it a coat of VHT engine paint clear to help protect it.
 
HOT ROD!Wink
 
 


-------------
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962



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