I used a napa sl128 switch attached to the master cylinder access plate. The switch lever fits under the brake pedal arm. 

So, tonight I'm going to start removing the engine and gear boxes. I was planning on replacing the clutch and u-joints at some point this year, but I guess I'll do those now. I'm also going to do the engine and transmission mounts while I'm at it. 

Does anyone have any advice on what rebuild kit for a t-90 and t-18 I should use? I'm looking at using Novak's kits.

Before you tear into everything, make sure that you have the transfer case shifted into 4 wheel drive BEFORE you try to shift into low range. From the factory these transfer cases have a "interlock pill" that prevents shifting into 2 wheel drive low. If the pill is still installed you MUST be in four wheel drive high before the pill will line up inside the shifter to allow you to shift to 4 wheel drive low range. 

Thanks! I will totally do that.

I started working on the new drive train. Got what I hope are good rebuildable cores. So I can continue to drive mine while I rebuild everything. Then swap it all in over a couple weeks this summer. At least that’s the plan. 

I’m not completely sure what all I got but it looks like a T90 and a D18. With a Ramsey PTO. And a Ramsey winch. Along with a Dana 25 and a 44. 

 

You know you love it! 

 

The forum really benefits from your projects . .  I really like your meticulous attention to detail on your builds.   Your documentation makes it easier for anyone attempting a similar endeavor in the future.

tower. First project done. Broke down the steering linkages and disassemble them. Next step is you repaint them and start to reassemble them. Doing that since my main project this year is to replace the

bell crank, hubs and bearing. I guess it is as close to a front rebuild I will get.

Here a photo of how my boots came out.

Roughed out the pieces form my Tail Pipe. And have it ready to weld together YEA.

I too am starting on a rear D44.  Got it mostly torn down yesterday.  This is my first time doing one of these. I'd be glad to see photos and description of your rebuild project.  Maybe start a thread on it?

Sure thing. I'll add it to my build thread! 

So far this is the only significant problem I've found.  Some rust on 3 of the pinion gear teeth from sitting.  The rest of the teeth and the ring gear look perfect.  I'm soaking the pinion in evaporust now.  After the rust is dissolved, I'll assess how bad it is and determine if its usable.  

Almost nothing to day was a clean up your mess day. After spending a good 3 weeks working on the exhaust system I had piles of cutt off tubing piles of used up sandpaper and other abrasives and my grinding room looked like I had been ignoring it for more then a few weeks. SO I cleaned and cleaned and then I went to ACE and bought another LED shop light to hang between my Drill Press, Lathe and Mill Drill. MUCH BETTER.

I need to figure out what thing I am going to attack next. Thinking finishing up on the brake system. I have it all in place just need to put the stuff inside the Brake Drums and connect all the DOTS. I then should see what I can do about the E Brake setup. I need to connect the two cables from the rear brakes and then connect that to the Cable coming down from the Cane on the dash.

That should get me to Friday when I will start on the throttle linkage (waiting on something coming UPS)

I also could go after the Drive shafts I have done NOTHING with them. least I could do is some serious cleaning. I also need to talk to Six States and see how much they will charge to up grade the tubing on my rear M-38 drive shaft to .120 wall DOM tubing. Balancing a drive shaft is out of my comfort zone. As is cutting the ends off one and welding them on a new tube.

I opened up the transmission and transfer case from my parts Jeep 1.  Looked better then expected, other then the bottom portion of the shifter was broken off. 

 I also got the transfer case to move in 4 spots, 4L, N, 4H, 2H.

I had to work today so I took my M-38 drive shaft along with me to have the drive shaft shop close to my work retube it with some .120 Wall tubing. The counter guy is always rude. And of course I find out they have to have U-Joints in it to be able to do the work. And since I didn't have any in my pockets (haddn't ordered them yet) I get to pay $8 a piece more for them from the shop. I asked how much he says oh $165-180 PLUS your two $18 U joints. SO that will eat up a big chunk. He then tells me that with all the slop in the splines they might not be able to balance it. WELL CRAP the splines are bone dry I washed all the grease out. Put grease in it and its going to be nice and snug again. It has very little play.

So I guess  I find out how it comes out when they get it done.

Always something

Shoot. For $219 Tom Woods will build you a completely brand new one. I can't even recall how any he's built for me. I probably paid for his pool! Ha. Top quality stuff.

 

Micah

 

Good luck on the OD  . .  hopefully rust-free . . would be a nice upgrade for some longer road runs.

 

Also,  the forum could use a good OD rebuild thread. 

I'll get it pulled off later this week and see how it looks.  Since it was on an M38, I suspect it is for a 26 tooth set up.  The D18 I just rebuilt is a 29 tooth version.  If that's the case, I need to talk to Herm and see if it can be changed to a 29 tooth.  

Cj2a noob wrote: Am am working on brakes... I’ll just leave it at that

Aw c'mon, at least let us know what you find.

X2 on the welcome aboard! As well as X2 on the pictures.

No problem, but thanks for looking. I need to get my Dana 44 project done before doing anything with the OD.