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11" Brake Upgrade - Tips and Lessons Learned?

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RICKG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2018 at 3:57pm
What I used this winter on my M38 4 wheel 11" brake conversion..
 

Wheel cyls
Rear 1.00" bore

Napa 37132 left

Napa 37133 rt


Front 1.125" bore

Ray 36057 left (use for both sides works with readily available "Z" lines & shields)

Drums

Ray 2307 (non-finned)


Shoes 11x2

Wag Z282R


Spring kits

Ray H7144

Self adj kits

Wag H2540 left

Wag H2541 rt


Cyl to shoe links

Napa 80743



Edited by RICKG - 16 Apr. 2018 at 4:01pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2018 at 4:07pm
Ah the old line stretcher trick, my lines were the original lines so I replaced them. Don't like to preload a brake line with my luck it will break at the worst possible time

Belleview ol skool winch soon.
'48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2018 at 4:23pm
Originally posted by jeeper50 jeeper50 wrote:

Ah the old line stretcher trick, my lines were the original lines so I replaced them. Don't like to preload a brake line with my luck it will break at the worst possible time
 
Yup, in my case I was replacing lines as well, tweaked the ends close as possible before assy..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2018 at 4:31pm
Thanks fellas!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr. 2018 at 1:30am
Lesson learned - when buying 11" backing plates, be sure they are a left and right set.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr. 2018 at 3:09am
Originally posted by ndnchf ndnchf wrote:

Lesson learned - when buying 11" backing plates, be sure they are a left and right set.
You've proven you can adapt and overcome..Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr. 2018 at 9:37am
Originally posted by ndnchf ndnchf wrote:

Man, that corn head grease is a goopy mess to get into the knuckle. I read about different ways to do it and ended up using this big syringe thing. It's an oil sucker from Harbor Freight, normally used to suck out old oil and fluids. I cleaned it out, then spoon filled it with the CH grease, then slowly squirted it into the knuckle. It's kind of thick to go through the syringe, but it worked. That is until the hose popped off the end and grease squirted all over. Only then did I think about adding the hose clamp to the tube. 

It's all done now and mess cleaned up. I don't want to do that again any time soon!



I found that NAPA sells perfect sized tubes of CV joint grease which is similar to cornhead grease. You simply screw the cap off and squeeze and roll the soft plastic tube until empty while holding the spout in the knuckle hole. Way less of a mess. Oilly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr. 2018 at 10:37am
Cornhead grease tubes fit into a standard greasegun. What I do is take the coupler off that fits on the zerk and put the tube in the knuckle hole and start pumping. Stop when the knuckle is full and move to the other knuckle; continue as before...be sure to put the plugs back in the knuckle. No muss, no fuss.

I have one greasegun dedicated to cornhead grease, but you wouldn't have to.

Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 20 Apr. 2018 at 12:56pm
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr. 2018 at 10:25pm
After a good bit of searching I found 15/16" bore wheel cylinders that have a straight port for the brake line. Not that it makes much difference whether the port is angled or straight, but since the 9" brakes use a straight port, I thought it would be nice to use the same thing. I'll probably end up making new rear lines anyway, but that's ok. These are NAPA UP37235. They are for a 1991 Dodge W150 rear wheel. 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr. 2018 at 3:18am
Way to go Steve, i'll update my parts list to include your rear cyl # NAPA UP37235
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr. 2018 at 1:25pm
Originally posted by ndnchf ndnchf wrote:

Lesson learned - when buying 11" backing plates, be sure they are a left and right set.
 
 
Did you reposition the brake adjustment slot yet, should be an easy fix to your problem. 
 
 
 


Edited by jeeper50 - 20 Apr. 2018 at 1:34pm

Belleview ol skool winch soon.
'48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr. 2018 at 2:08pm
Yes, I milled a new adjuster slot on one backing plate.  


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr. 2018 at 3:49pm

Beer

 

Belleview ol skool winch soon.
'48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr. 2018 at 12:00am
Might as well make them match, so it looks intentional.
Just call it ventilation. Embarrassed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr. 2018 at 3:00pm
I did the same on some plates I found last year. I wondered why they didn't cut 2 slots from the factory-the rubber plugs are cheap and the inventory reduction would be a huge consideration.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr. 2018 at 6:23pm
OK so I read through this whole thread and I still haven't ever anywhere read a write up of how people are connecting their 11" brakes with E brakes. I have seen a number of threads that talked about using Lokar or Vega or Mustang II brake levers mounted on the tunnel. I am hoping someone has actually gone to the effort to figure out a good way to connect to the Original Dash mounted Cane handle.

I have cables that fit the Brake end of the deal and reach right to the front edge of the PTO hole. And I have a new Stock Cable coming down from the Cane Handle just curious what people might be doing to connect them and where to run the cables in relationship to the Transfer/Tranny stuff.

The Lokar type setup is not an option for me as I will have a combo CB, 10 meter, Stereo, Gun safe, document storage, Emergency Radio and jump battery, Phone charger and cup holder console built between the seats.

Or are you all waiting for me to figure it out LOL.




Edited by Mark W. - 21 Apr. 2018 at 6:27pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr. 2018 at 8:24pm
It never crossed my mind. Don't all CJ2As have the parking brake on the back of the transfer case?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr. 2018 at 10:38pm
Originally posted by ndnchf ndnchf wrote:

It never crossed my mind. Don't all CJ2As have the parking brake on the back of the transfer case?


Yes unless it has been removed. With E brakes in the Rear wheels I see no reason in my case to have the mass of the Transfer mounted E brake using up HP or dragging its weight around. SO when Richard Darr built my Transfer case for me I did not have him put anything connected with the E Brake on it. Knowing my Dana 44 with 11" brakes from a 68 Wagoneer would already have E brakes built into the Wheels like a modernish vehicle.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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