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46 F engine stuck help

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138thatks View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 4:04pm
good afternoon all, new to the site I just bought a 46 jeep and got it Home to find the engine is stuck. I tried the 50/50 acetone and ATF mix but I cannot get it to pop free. Head is off and have access to the pistons. I can see that cylinder 2,3 are the problem ones. I let it sit for about a week and tried turning the crank and hitting the pistons a little with a 2x4 but nothin seems to work. Any other suggestions? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 4:15pm
I have had luck with a product called Corrosion Block. It is sold at Boat stores. My L head was stuck for many years and I tried everything else. Nothing worked then I was told to try this stuff.

I had the head removed and also removed the oil pan where I sprayed the crank and cam shafts. The next day I was able to turn the motor over.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 138thatks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 4:19pm
Alright I will have to give that a shot. I also just was looking at this on one of the cylinders the exhaust valve is open and the other one it is not (both cylinders being the trouble ones). And they are both at TDC so I’m starting to thing maybe the valve is holding it up? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 9:07pm
If the valve is stuck open, the engine will still turn. If it is stuck closed, that may cause the engine to appear seized. However, the pistons would still move a tiny bit. If the pistons will not move at all, the valves are not stopping the engine from turning. Well, they may be a problem, but they are not the main problem.

When a piston is at TDC, the valves will either both be closed, (at the start of the power stroke), or they will be "rocking", [IE: the exhaust is closing while the intake is opening],  (at the start of the intake stroke). One of your "Problem Cylinders" is on the power stroke & the other is on the intake stroke.

Thus, the exhaust valve being slightly open may be normal at this point. Now if it is fully open, it is either stuck, or the valve train is messed up. In that case, you may have a broken camshaft or timing chain or timing gear. 

Until you can be sure that the valve is stuck, do not try to close it with a hammer. You will probably bend it. Only try to close it once you are sure that the camshaft is not holding it open. IE: the lifter is not on the cam lobe.

There are several treads on this site about freeing up stuck pistons. Use the "Advanced Search" feature. Regular search is useless.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.

PS, Heat, penetrating oil, & patience are your friends on this. Lots of patience!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WorkInProgress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct. 2017 at 11:33pm
maybe remove the starter and see if it's still stuck. My cj2a had starter problems before that it's bendix would stay in flywheel and it would act like seized motor.  I would unbolt starter and it would be unseized until it happened again then I'd have to unbolt and rebolt starter again. Did this a few times until I had starter rebuilt
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Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct. 2017 at 11:41pm
When my starter jams on the flywheel, I can turn the engine over with a 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar, some extension, and a 36mm socket.  Most of the time, anyway. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct. 2017 at 1:08am
Just keep soaking it. It will move eventually. My neighbor went mano a mano with a 250 Chevy motor with a 16 lb sledge and a block of wood. He moved it several times across the garage floor as he pounded on it. It actually turned out to be a good motor after honing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willy M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct. 2017 at 9:08am
Originally posted by Unkamonkey Unkamonkey wrote:

Just keep soaking it. It will move eventually. My neighbor went mano a mano with a 250 Chevy motor with a 16 lb sledge and a block of wood. He moved it several times across the garage floor as he pounded on it. It actually turned out to be a good motor after honing.

I did that with a 307 SBC years ago that I had in mind to put into a CJ5  (Already had it laying around so the price was right).  It had been left out in the weather with the heads removed for several months when I got it.  It didn't turn out as well as that guy's 250 as I never could get it unstuck.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willys54wagon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct. 2017 at 12:21pm
I let it sit for about a week
-------------------------------------------
My favorite story is a guy at church to found an old maytag washing machine motor in the grove. He put it in the garage and every morning and evening on the way to and back from work, he would oil it and try to move it by hand.   After about a year, it moved.

Patience is your friend. Don't force it, you know what will happen. The purpose of the 2x4 on the piston is to vibrate it so oil can get down in it.
Two jeeps on the road, one is close and the rest are dreams.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct. 2017 at 2:18pm
So I had a seriously stuck piston in my engine. I had soaked it in ATF and various penetrating fluids for more then a year.

I then removed the crank set the block up on a box made of 2x6's and using a piece of Micarta (solid wood like Oak would also work) about 1/8" in diameter less then the bore I started to pound the piston down. I was using a nice big 24 ounce ball pen hammer and taking solid blows. At first no movement then slowly the piston started to move.

If its stuck so bad you have to pound it out your going to have to bore it and then get over sized pistons so no worry about damage to pistons. Only the Rods so make sure you have room (the 2x6 box) for them to exit the bottom of the block.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 138thatks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct. 2017 at 4:11pm
finally after reading all your posts I got them both freeed up had to take the crank out and take them out of the bottom but they are out. Thank you all for the help. Just have one last question if anyone would know the answer, I’m assuming they will need to be bord because there is some nice gashes in the head and I can’t get it out by honing. So my question is do I have to take the whole engine to a place that will do it or does it split somewhere and I’m just missing it? 

Thanks again for all the help! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct. 2017 at 7:42pm
OK, the holes in the block that the piston came out of is called the cylinders. The head is that rectangular piece of cast iron that has the four spark plugs in it. The head also covers the cylinders.

The block is the large cast iron part that has the cylinders bored in it. The Crankshaft fits in the bottom of the block. The head goes over it & covers the cylinders bored in it.

So, the gashes are in the cylinder that is one of the large holes bored in the block. They are not in the head. Do I have this correct?

If as I suspect, the gouges are in the block, then yes, the entire block has to go to the machine shop. No, it does not separate into smaller pieces.  Once the head & the oil pan, (oil sump) is off, it is about as small at it will get. Yes, it is heavy & hard to handle. I horse it around by myself. However, I am fairly large & slightly insane. I recommend you use either a hoist or a few friends to load it into your pickup.

If the gouges are in the head, just take that to the machine shop. Or you could dress them out yourself. Most folks use a Dremmel tool.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.
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