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'46 VEC? came with L-Head to power a mill saw?

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Mudhog92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2016 at 6:29pm
This is the worst of the underside.  Going to try and patch the hat rails.  Will just get a floor patch piece fromWalck's...live 45 min away.


Starting using a grinder to cut it out and Bam...
 



Tetanus shot....


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2016 at 6:40pm
One neighbor actually stops over on a regular basis to see what's going on.  The other neighbor is fairly old.  Either hate me or it gives them some viewing entertainment,  I restored a '65 Mustang Coup 2 years ago...same way, same spot.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2016 at 6:41pm

Child labor.  Bribed with ice cream.  She loved getting greasy helping me pull the tranny and T/C
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep. 2016 at 4:41pm
New piece, removing inches of Bondo and several layers of primer and paint.
 



New floor piece and glassed hat channels



New tool box floor, glassed inside seems


More cut out cancer patched with new steel and sh*tty welding....I smell Bondo in my future!



Next on my to do list.

Also have complete brake overhaul kit, T90, and D18 rebuild and gasket kits coming from Walcks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2016 at 5:08pm
I will be seeing to it personally that Mr Walck will have extra money for Merry Christmas this year.....

Edited by Mudhog92 - 15 Sep. 2016 at 5:18pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2016 at 5:16pm

Oil collector.  Going to reshape it and try to JB Weld the hole



Awe, itty bitty T90 pieces....



Cluster shaft



Reverse idler





Cleaned and painted with high heat ceramic engine paint, Titanium.  Maybe the Titanium will hold it all together after I put it back together incorrectly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJ2A-CT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2016 at 8:47pm
Hey, Love your attitude and admire your progress. Keep the photos coming.
46 CJ2a 22786 Brer Rabbit, 53 Willys Wagon, 62 Willys Pickup building with son-in-law, Jason
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct. 2016 at 4:40pm
New Hats...Took one side kit from Walcks and split it between my needs for the left and right side.



Mock up to weld on fender supports.


Bulletproof.  Kevlar fiber reinforced bed liner in the tub.  Not too agressive, but hides the 'character' in the areas that are supposed to be flat!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct. 2016 at 4:45pm
Redoing all seals in axles and the bad bearings, which is only 2 wheel bearings and races while I'm in there.  I can not get out the ring gear and carrier from the front axle.  Trying to push pull and tap without breaking something expensive or gouging out my diff with a crow bar.



Homemade brake clamped to my tailgate to bend tail light panels.


Craigslist provided me with a $50 running L-134 with rebuilt carb, new fuel pump, good clutch and flywheel.  Will test compression  to see how she holds.  Cast numbers are from an MB block.  

I have another running MB engine, any one interested?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct. 2016 at 4:47pm

Before...sold my Harley for multiple reasons, but used some of the money to build the Man Cave...or as my daughter said, 'looks like a creepy meth lab...."



Taa Daaa!  Floor gets wet, but not the upright side of me!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct. 2016 at 5:09pm
Originally posted by Mudhog92 Mudhog92 wrote:

I can not get out the ring gear and carrier from the front axle.  Trying to push pull and tap without breaking something expensive or gouging out my diff with a crow bar.

Mud,
The service manual recommends using a case spreader for this, but in my experience (very limited, 1 front axle) a spreader is not needed.  If  you can get a skinny pry bar in behind the carrier where I have put the red arrows, you can pry pretty hard without hurting anything. I actually found that I didn't have to pry very hard and the thing just popped right out.  Be ready to catch it!  Make sure you take the caps off first. Smile  And take a picture or something so you can put them back the same way they came out.


Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct. 2016 at 6:47pm
Mark the differential bearing caps so that they will go back in EXACTLY like they came out of the housing. This is important; to not do this could cause much trouble. The caps need to go back on the same side and in same orientation as originally in the housing.

The Dana factory mark in Stan's illustration picture is the upright letter K stamped on the left hand housing and the matching differential bearing cap. The right hand side has a sideways K stamped in the housing and the cap. The factory mark doesn't necessarily have to be a K, only a letter that can be distinguished between upright and sideways.

Look for the marks and if they are there you are good to go. If they aren't, better mark them. The bolts don't matter if they get mixed up, but the position of the caps are very important.

One other thing. If you are going to reuse the differential bearings, try not to get them switched from one side to the other when you reassemble. Just good shop practice.

Hope this helps.

Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 10 Oct. 2016 at 6:52pm
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.)
U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2016 at 12:08am
Thank you very much for the info.  I have the bearing caps off and they are marked.  I tried prying on the carrier with a larger bar. I will sneak a small one in around the back side at the marked areas.  I will keep the bearings in the same location and orientation.  
Update you how much I break later!
Big smile      Thanx again.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct. 2016 at 1:17am

Rear gear and carrier popped right out with  a little wiggling and tweaking.  Replaced seals after cleaning everything up.  Bearings and races seem good.  I think they were replaced not that many miles ago.  Oil in the diff's was not bad, gears are good. Oil was a little gray at the bottom, but no chunks of silver.  Bearing caps were marked from factory and reinstalled exactly as previous.  All shims kept in original location and order ( I hope).  

Still can not get out my front ring gear and carrier.  I pried, tried, and cried.  The axle is still on the Jeep-issues with room and available space in my garage tent.  I pried with a large crow bar that had everything tweaking and then I had to file off the bur on the diff.  I really want to replace the inner seals.  Just might have to let it go for now.  I considered attaching a come along puller and putting a ratchet strap on the carrier...not sure if that is a good idea.  Before I try that, I will put the yoke back on, keep it from turning by using a pipe wrench wedged into the frame and pry on the carrier a few more times.  It's soaking for a few more days in PB Blaster hoping that helps loosen the bearings off the inside sides of the diff.  The pinion is nice and tight, rolls smooth, no noise.  Hate to stick my fingers into something not broken...


Edited by Mudhog92 - 13 Oct. 2016 at 1:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct. 2016 at 1:22am



Tired of manually stripping paint, tried paint stripper.  Well after 5 coats, scraping, deactivating, getting the crud down in my latex glove on my open knuckl wound..



Same amount of time and elbow grease.  Maybe a little easier, but not by much.  Definitely using stripper on the grill, way too intricate for sanding.



Polished it up with a fiber rust/paint stripper pad on my grinder.


Edited by Mudhog92 - 13 Oct. 2016 at 1:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shadow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct. 2016 at 8:35pm
awsome progress, we need to call you the shadetree mechanicLOL
lets go for a rip eh bud

Andy
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Mudhog92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct. 2016 at 9:22pm
Can't anymore, I put up the hoochy tent!

Thanks, my ADD keeps me-squirrel!

Sharing my follies so someone else can hopefully avoid the same hard luck lessons.  This whole forum is a great resource, I read it frequently.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparky13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct. 2016 at 12:59am
Hey Mudhog92  Where at in Pa. are you?  Like the progress you are making on that Willys. 
Mark
1946 CJ2A
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