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'46 VEC? came with L-Head to power a mill saw?

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Mudhog92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct. 2016 at 2:57am
I popped out the front ring gear and carrier by running a hand towel into the ring and pinion and turning the yoke with a pipe wrench. As it ate the towel, it pushed the whole assembly out with the effort of soft cotton.   Boogered the yoke a little with pipe wrench marks, but carrier out intact. What an easy trick that was. Got it off a 4x4 forum somewhere.
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Mudhog92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2016 at 1:33am


Old n dirty



Pieces, gulp...




New seals, cage roller bearings, gaskets, and paint job


Hope it works.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2016 at 2:39am
Take this in a positive manner. I used to rebuild them for a living and people here have posted pictures of a case full of rust they had.
It looks like you have a very rebuildable transfer case.
uncamonkey
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Mudhog92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2016 at 12:26pm
Thanks, appreciate the input. One of the cups had a small pea sized spot of corrosion I left go. The shift linksge seals, both popped a little bit of the seal outside when I reassembled, even with the shafts lubed. I hated to do it, but I just pushed the protruding seal back in with a small screw driver. Having just assembled everything, I didn't want to ruin all my new gaskets. I didn't get out my dial gauge yet, but I will before install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2016 at 5:46pm

Cleaning up the $50 engine, found crack repair under distributor.  Research showed it to be an MB block and this was common.  Little JB weld, see how that works.



Threw new rear main rope seal in.  Tried without pulling the crank, buuuut that was not meant to be.  I had to loosen up all the bearings, cam gear and flywheel to get me a gap I could squeeze the seal in using a wire cork screw wrapped around the rope seal and pull it through.  Only to realize I could not cut off the excess end.  Sooo after cussing a little, I pulled the crank out to cut the seal 1mm over flush.  Made sure I put the flywheel on in alignment with the timing marks on the crank and cam gears up front.



oil pudding in the bottom of the oil pan.  When I checked the dipstick upon getting the engine, I was a little too excited to realize it had no oil filter.   When I get it up and running, I plan on flushing the block with 1/2 ATF in the oil to flush it out during the break in.  I cleaned the pick up screen really good.


Edited by Mudhog92 - 07 Nov. 2016 at 5:48pm
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Mudhog92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2016 at 5:51pm

Dropped that puppy in within 5 minutes.  Way to easy, made me nervous....




Did all my own brake lines




But contracted out the brake bleeding job in exchange for ice cream.
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Mudhog92 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2016 at 6:01pm

Bought an oil filter bracket and canister and new lines.  I think the oil lines have metric threads and they are not the correct lengths.  Not sure how many Willy's vehicles have metric threaded oil lines.  My wheel cylinders had the correct threads on bleeders, but required 10mm wrench to open.  Found that odd...So I put the plugs back in for the oil lines on the block and ordered new lines from Walck's (the best).  I do not need the oil lines hooked up to get her running.



Distributor looks like an Autolite IAD 4008 I think, with no vacuum, and it's so stuck, I can not spin it to time...which I will get to next post.

I also went through my parts bin and found a Harrison heater that has a working fan and 'seems' to hold pressure with the scientific 'hold mouth on the inlet and thumb over outlet' pressure test.

Had to put new intake and exhaust manifolds on as they both had cracked areas.  Put in new carb that I got with the engine that was supposedly rebuilt by PO.  Hmmm,....no.  Leaks like a sieve until I turn the engine over, then most the leaks get sucked back in.  Hey Mr Walck, can you send a rebuild kit for a Carter carb lickety split?!?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2016 at 6:14pm
I scrubbed and pried 70 years of crud off the column shift steering column.  Installed it and leaked all the steering oil all over the ground and it will not shift into reverse on the column.  It will if I disconnect the shift linkage and shift the trans manually (my fingers).  So shifter issue, not trans issue.  Will look into later.

So I hook up the oil pressure and temp gauges.  Just wire them onto steering column.  Leaks found from the new radiator shut off (new one coming), the water pump (new one ordered with thermostat and gaskets) and oil pressure sending elbow.  The temp sending unit, the T-case and trans seal, the carb, the ......maybe it would be easier to list were it is not leaking!  Nothing horrible, just, well, you know.
But it has fresh paint!!!!

Turn it over and it is rough, lots blow back out carb.  
Run through timing check, got spark, little fuel starting to hit plugs, starter gets hot so lay off a little.  
Try again alone, same.  
Get a buddy over.  
TDC, #1 cylinder has pressure, not vacuum.  
Recheck flywheel, TC in housing window.  Rotor is at 7-8 o'clock, should be at 5:30.  
I am guessing PO did oil pump or distributor work and installed 180*.  Rotate some plug wires on distributor and I get a few rumblings and the battery dies.  
Battery charging now and carb rebuild kit on the way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2016 at 6:19pm
'Think' I have a 12v generator.  Ordered a new voltage regulator from NAPA.  Will hook it up Wednesday.  Used the started off the F-head it came with.  Thank God the bell housing and starter line up and work.

My kid put coarse threaded nuts on the fine threaded engine mount bolts and crossed threaded them.  I should have checked.  He has a '78 CJ5 with the 304 and headers.  






I am trying to teach him regular maintenance and elbow grease skills so I let him alone to do with my guidance and set up before hand.    Washers fixing it for now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2016 at 6:26pm
This is only the second vehicle I have ever built.  I am a paramedic by trade.  I do this to learn and because I love it.  If anyone can share any insight or different view point on anything I am doing, I am completely open to criticism, feedback and learning.  I am posting my experience to help others.  The only thing I can say I do really well is make mistakes...but's that how I learn.


Stay safe, thanks to all here, invaluable resource.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2016 at 4:04pm

Carter Kitty helped do master rebuild on carb the PO told me was rebuilt that leaked like a sieve.


Sealed old tank inside and out after a good cleaning with POR rust remover/metal etcher and few pounds of nuts and washers sloshed around inside. Clean, dry and seal with POR15 gas tank sealer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2016 at 4:14pm

Whoops.  Little more than duct tape to fix this.

Can't get engine running.  Got it to back fire.  Getting fuel, spark and the only thing I can guess is the cam timing might be off a hair.  When I did the rear main, there was slop/play in the cam and crank timing gear and chain.  Will take off valve cover to adjust valves and see if intake and exhaust valves jive like they are supposed to do.
Walked away from engine issues and went back to auto body work.  Glazing the Bondo edges and pin holes.



...and my kid needed near valve cover and header gaskets replaced.  And I dropped a plug on reassembly, checked, yup no cracks, 11pm, tired....found out the hard way that a plug dropped perfectly onto the electrode will not fire in the engine....idiot....


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2016 at 4:15pm

Ahhhh, why this is so calming should probably be studied by a psychologist....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov. 2016 at 6:40pm
Mud hog you are doing a fine job!

When I was rebuilding my jeep I couldn't get the newly rebuilt engine to fire either. I checked and rechecked everything. I had the wires on in the correct firing order and it just did nothing--backfired a little, but would never start. Hmmm, took the cap off the distributor and voila! The distributor shaft spins counterclockwise and I had the wires on it to fire in the clockwise setting. Switched the wires and she fired right up! I felt both dumb and elated. It was an easy fix and I learned something.
1947 CJ2a #119929    "Gus"
1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268   “Newt”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2016 at 1:24am
I posted in the Tech section and got some pointers.  Got it running today.  Basically got TDC by plugging #1 cylinder hole with my thumb, making sure valves were were they needed to be and lined up the #1 plug wire with the rotor.  When I used the timing light, none of the 4 plug wires show me the timing marks on the flywheel, even rotating the distributor back and forth.  Not sure how I managed that, but she runs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov. 2016 at 1:59pm

Finally prepped



Epoxy primer







Windshield still needs some work.  Will probably paint it satin black
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mudhog92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov. 2016 at 5:19pm

Threw her back together.  Wife out of State for Holiday, I had to work....on the Willy's.  From 9:00 am to 4:30 am the next morning, two hamburgers, six pack Lager and 2 Monster energy drinks later.  Don't have to do that again....
 



Driver Training

Generator does not produce ANY voltage.  Double checking grounds with new paint and all.  New voltage regulator, new wiring,...troubleshoot some more.  Will pull gennie apart and test armature and commutator, fields...
New OD keeps popping out of gear while driving around.  Made sure per Herm's directions:
  1. Before assembly, you must verify the proper location of the gear assembly. This measurement of .667″ is taken from the case to the top of the planetary.
I was right on the money.  Followed directions very carefully and half my T-case is new parts, so after I get the system to charge, fix fuel gauge, continued leaks,....


LOL, first test drive revealed I needed to re-bleed the brakes.  Going backwards down my driveway skillfully avoiding the borrowed other neighbors 2.5 ton cherry picker, the hedges, Maple tree, engine stand, and wash pole through the neighbors yard at 3:45 am and leaving mysterious ruts in their manicured yard....
I told them, not that kind of guy.

Need a short break, but not for long.  Hope you all had Happy Turkey Day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov. 2016 at 5:26pm
I found that with my overdrive from Herm, the pop-it spring was not really holding the ball tight against the shift rod. Spring seems too short, or compressed some. I pulled the bolt, spring and ball out and put some (I think 3) tiny little washers behind the spring to tighten it up some. I haven't got everything back together yet, but I am hoping that this will solve my popping out of gear on the overdrive. 
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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