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48CJ2a starting point

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wadoyado View Drop Down
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    Posted: 20 Oct. 2016 at 8:39am
Greetings all. Thought I'd back track a little and show what I'm starting with. This is the condition of the 48 serial no.208783 that's been in the family since 1950. The body has had several face lifts 1956, 1966, 1989 and present. The floor is shot and the exhaust manifold was leaking (turns out broken stud and cracked manifold) After unsuccessfully trying to remove the stud and with the floor issue I decided to remove the motor and body. The plan being fix the mechanicals repair the floor new tires try and put it on the road again. Which leads me to a few basic questions The title states CJ2a but the frame looks 3a going by body mounts. The tranny states T-90A-1. Are these different from T-90? The brake and clutch pedals appear slightly shorter than some spares of a 1947 I have. Also I thought CJ3as where F head, were L heads still an option?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2016 at 9:32am
CJ-3A's were L heads the overhead valve F head came in the CJ3B

Your tub has a number of modifications including the Hat channel under the front floor is not stock, The Top bow pockets on the left side of the body have been removed.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2017 at 10:26am
I should have known from past experience this "fix the floor, and exhaust leak" project was going to turn into a complete jeep rebuild, but what the heck like I said before I was born into it! Probably conceived in it? My father figured I didn't need toys "you got the real thing" attitude. O K back to the ranch. Went thru the T90 now looking at the transfer case I know some of you out there might think I'm crazy but I see no reason to disassemble, the gears look great no excessive play never had shifting or noise problems looks like original wire job. What do the experts think? I would like to remove the shift levers though. What's the best way to remove the pin? Drive out? Didn't seem to want to move. Thought I'd check with the experts on that to. Many thanks Joe Wadoyado.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2017 at 10:59am
Joe,
Not an expert here, but I've been in one and around a few more. 
If it works fine I wouldn't mess with it.

Those pins can get really rusty and stuck. 
On original CJ2A transfer cases they are held in by a set screw. If that set screw is out, all that is holding it in is age and stubbornness. Use your favorite secret penetrating sauce and give it a wack. 

On D18 of a more modern vintage, that pin is sometimes threaded. I doubt if you have that, but just mentioning it, just in case.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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wadoyado View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2017 at 11:49am
Thanks for the reply Stan, just what I was hoping to hear. I gotta tell ya how impressed I am with all your posts and videos the whole story. The pics of the women holding the deer rifle and the one with the curlers in her hair could be my aunt. The stories of growing up sound very familiar! I wondered how you went from 8mm home movies to posting on internet? Thanks again Joe Wadoyado.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2017 at 3:20pm
Moving right along on my 48 project, I started on the steering box. The pic on the right is off the 48 the other I'll call spare on left which I'd like to use. Both worm gears have nos. T123041 on them But the spare shaft is about 1" longer With a different steering wheel shown in another pic (one with longer lip) Both steering wheels say S Heller on them. Will the spare (longer shaft work alright? Also one of the pics shows the rear cap, broke the slide hammer end trying to remove the oil seal. Any tricks to getting the oil seal out? and while I'm at it I'll go for 3 Anybody recognize the washer next to rear cap? Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Joe Wadoyado
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2017 at 6:47pm
Hi Joe,
The longer worm gear/shaft likely belongs in a 3A. They are longer than a 2A shaft.

You had a early question about the frame. Very late 2A frames are a "Tweener". There are some 2A traits and some 3A traits. Easiest way to tell if you have a late 2A frame or a 3A frame is to take a look at the motor mounts on the frame. If offset from each other, it's a 3A frame. If they are in line with each other, it's a late 2A frame.
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2017 at 7:07pm
Update on my 48 cj2a. The first pic should show the trans buttoned up ready to go, shifted thru all gears little tighter but should be fine, would install on transfer case but going to wait till it's outside for easier handling. Next pic transfer case didn't totally disassemble just new seals gaskets, had hand brake shoes relined cleaned parts tried to use OEM parts including hardware. E brake works good. Next pics shows parts might be of interest. I ordered all new U joints from QTM made in US ones, seemed to work good (no issues),was able to find arrows after several cleanings splines looked good also. Two used U joints (probably still usable) say Spicer original equipment? The throw out bearing proudly stamped made in USA is at least 40yrs old if not original I plan on using it. I think this build is going to be about using OEM, keeping new parts to a minimum. The transfer case shift pin is one of the few new parts I've used and the standard grease fitting doesn't fit had to half ass retap it. From what I've read on this form i'm pretty leary of anything "brand new" I not sure if I want to run the new trans mount probably metric studs! Wa ma gonna do? Joe wadoyado
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2017 at 8:40pm
Keep up the good work. one piece at a time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2017 at 10:42am
Thanks Gil coming from you I consider that a real compliment! Did you happen to notice the clutch control tube in one of the pics? I decided to go with the worn and pitted original after reading about the bullsh-- problems you had. Thanks for the warning. Joe Wadoyado                     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2017 at 7:28pm
   Well at least I was able to get the pic's going had to cut it short the wife "needs" me. I'll have to come back with the story. Sorry Joe Wadoyado
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar. 2017 at 5:09am
These pic's are pretty much self explanatory. Found rust thru spot on cross-member, measured 12ga,(.109),located same thickness patch piece,1/16 cutoff wheel to cut rectangle area out. Used cut-out piece as pattern. Then tacked in repair patch(butt joint) leaving small gap if possible. Then TIG welded using "mild" steel rod(low carbon content). I skipped the pic showing the backside of the weld 100% penetration. This is the same way I recommended to mnbailey to repair the large dent in the front frame cross tube, only round and you'ld have to recurve the patch, I got the impression from a couple of posts that I was talking crazy. I ask what is wrong with my method? I'm aware mnbailey said he had little welding experience which is why I suggested just tack in the patches then bring to a professional. Thanks, Joe (PlEASE DON'T CUT THAT FRAME) Wadoyado.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 9:24pm
Working at what seems to be a snails pace, the great late 48 has been coming together. Had a few good days while the wife was working last week. Was able to get the trans and TC out of the basement and installed....things moving along pretty good (no stripped threads missing hardware cotter pins line up ect.) The S bends on the break lines took sum doing but was for-warned by Jeepstaffer in his thread (thanks). Then I woke up Tuesday and felt I'd been kicked in the shoulder by a mule!!WAAAAA, anyhow it's feeling better but it still cost me a few days. Sucks getting old! Joe wadoyado
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 9:29pm
Should have previewed, this is the pic I meant to post OOps again! joe
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pilot195 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2017 at 4:23pm
Thanks Joe! I appreciate posts like this one showing the steps of thepatch job ...helps me visualize what I am going to have to do as I get going
Jim
Jim
'46 Willys Jeep
USAF retired
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 June 2017 at 7:12pm
I could easily spend a yr. just doing the tub, but just can't wait that long......had to explain to the jeep going to have to go with just a flat sheet for the bed(no ribs, custom cobble). Even with the local made hat channel still about 300$ cheaper. I told it I'd just tack it in, put a proper replacement later. I left the original tailgate mounting holes in place when I made the weld repair 14ga metal 18ga on the back and sides Also note I didn't weld the long seem on the side repair until it's all tacked in place....helps control distortion. Joe wadoyado
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2017 at 7:28am
    With the body-work well underway I started on my motor situation decided to go with the original motor until I can get the 52military motor rebuilt. Block in fore-ground on floor.(std. bore probably clean up at .010 overbore) The original motor that was in it ran pretty good (.060 overbore) broken ex. stud and manifold. Lapped the valves the old school way, ended up running the cam from the 52 because I could see the timing mark, tried a form suggestion to remove the crank gear when setting the timing marks worked like a charm (thanks for the tip, all) I removed the steering gear to ease installation of the motor dropped right in no sweat, had the head surfaced ground at my cuz's shop(traded for welding)...Decided to go with a copper head gasket from Pete De Bella a quality product so much more but I've reached my writing limit. Thanks Joe Wadoyado
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2017 at 10:20am
   Wow! tempus fugit, it's been 1yr since joining this site. Really expected to be farther along by now (hate being a sidewalk commando). My jeep knowledge can be summed up in two time periods, before the form, and after the form, sorta like B.C. and A.D. Unfortunate for me I started doing this jeep body in B.C. times, before I fully realized how it was put together and what was available ect. The first pic should show about as far as I wanted to go before putting the body on( which has been the big hold up). I timed it with the timing marks lined up, the fly wheel mark in the window, the intake valve in #1 just closed, the rotor in the 1 o clock position with CCW rotation, and if it's not timed right I'll be a Unkamonkey er I mean monkey's uncle . I was able to do a compression test using my selonoid switch with the built in button switch works as a remote starter, showed 95psi in 4,3,2 with no.1(the one I removed) 85psi hoping that's the reason. This is the original motor that was bored .060 over 50 yrs ago(run every year since) Going to run it until I do a rebuild on the 52 block I have. Also decided on a 1 wire alt. for the juice. The body, if I had to do it over probably would get a new tub....the only thing I can say is at least the grand kids won't fall thru the floor. If the body was original or had some historical significance I think I'd tack the repair pieces with a Mig welder then put on a rotissier and Tig weld. Many thanks for all I've learned on this form Joe Wadoyado
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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