Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Your Jeep Project
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - A little project update on Chug A Lug
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

A little project update on Chug A Lug

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 5152535455 140>
Author
Message
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2018 at 12:39am
SO today might be a bit of a short day I'm pooped. I did some cleaning up and organizing again this morning. The wife got home from work early and took me out to lunch. After lunch I went at a big PITA I been putting off for a while.

Since I decided to make a new Roll Bar as Dads is not Square enough to fit my newly built tub. I had to cut new mounting plates. These are pretty much the same as dads 1/4" x 8" x 29 1/2" Boiler plate. Luckily I actually have some of the same Boiler plate dad used.  Only draw back is its 10" wide and like 4' something long.

And I currently have the wrong Bandsaw Blade for this work on the saw (no where until Monday to get the right one) SO I setup in the driveway to cut them out with my POS Harbor Freight 4.5" angle grinder (the fourth or fifth one of the Willys Project) this one the switch doesn't want to stay on so I have to hold it PITA. Luckily I'm pretty good at this stuff and after using up 5) disc's I get them cut out. Some time with a grinding wheel and I have them both close enough to straight cuts I can use my long sanding board and some 80 grit and get them looking pretty good. But man what a chore.

They fit the Micrata "Saddles" I made for them a while back real well. I do wish the Stake pockets were in the same place on both sides of the Tub (left over from Factory assembly as I never took them off the Wheel House tops) as it makes the Plates look uneven. Once I make the little Micarta Trim pieces that will go on either end of the Plates it will be hard to notice.

Monday I call for a price on a length of 1.75 OD .113"+ DOM mild steel tubing. And to set up an appointment with the Local Race Car Chassis Builder to do the 4) Bends for me.

I am modifying the Design dad used his since it was made from Steam pipe has 12" radius corners at the Top of the Main bow. I am bringing that down to 9" radius. And then the Braces will hit the main hoop farther from the center (staying within the plane of the Inner Wall of the Wheel Houses. This will allow me to put a larger cube of cargo in the bed of the Jeep. Dads angle in so much the braces restrict how big of thing you can put in the back of the Jeep. I am also going to bring the braces straight up about 12" before approx a 60 degree 9" radius bend towards the Top of the hoop.

I should be able to put a cube 35"w x 25"d x 36"t into the back of the Jeep and have it under the Roll bar and Top I have planned. Without the top on the Jeep I should be able to move a stand up freezer LOL.

Here's the basic design



The blue vertical lines are the edge of the Wheel Houses. The plate will be backed up by a 1/4" T plate 10" square with 2" radiused corners under the Main Hoop in the back because I have Spare tire braces on both sides of my tub the pieces under the Wheel House will be 1/4" T 3" diameter disc's I am using Grade 10.9 10mm Metric Bolts (8 of them on a side) to hold the Roll Bar to the Top of the Wheel House as well as the Back inside bolt will be tied into the Braces I am putting inside the Wheel House to support the Body mounted Swing a way Tire and Tool carrier. Which will also be tied into the frame work under the floor of the Bed.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
russnj View Drop Down
Admin
Admin
Avatar
Webmaster

Joined: 20 July 2005
Location: W. Windsor, NJ
Status: Offline
Points: 3943
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russnj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2018 at 1:47am
Great work!

43 MB, 48 CJ2A, 50 CJ3A, 55 M38A1, 56 CJ5, 79 M151A2, M100 ,65 M416
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2018 at 2:40am
SO interesting day. My son inlaw who is partners in a Farm orriented CNC and old school machine shop got me a price on 20' of 1.75" x .120 wall DOM steel tubing (basically NHRA approved mild steel roll bar material). I spent some time making a Paper pattern for the Main hoop and braces. I need the main hoop to be close to the underside of the Aluminum hard top I haven't made so some figuring went into that measurement. I then figured out the braces which will come straight up 12" then make an approx 60 degree bend and end up just to the inside of the 5.5" (centerline) radius corners of the main hoop.

When I went to the steel seller I asked the nice young lady if they also had any scrap pieces. She showed me some 1.75" x .095" wall tubing they had a 8' length of. So I bought that to use for the trim little rock sliders I will be making.

I had planned to have 90 degree corners on the ends of the rock sliders and then weld a mounting flange on the end of the short legs to attach them to the frame. BUT the more I wiggled around under the jeep tonight with the cardboard pattern the more it became apparent that that wasn't going to work like I thought. SO I save myself $72.00 in bending fee's and will have the Rock slider a single straight section of tubing with 45 degree end caps. And straight sections of tubing coming from the mounting flange out to support it. Should look and work very nicely.

SO tomorrow I head to the local race car chassis builder to have my Roll bar tubing bent. If it goes well I will trim the pieces to length and then I think I will just tack them in place (the PITA will be the Joint between the brace and the hoop cut on two angles) And see if I can get the Neighbors son to do the actual welding next time he visits his dad. He's a super duper certified hanging from under a bridge kind of welder and I think a Roll bar is one thing like my Steering box mount he did for me to not leave to a goober welder like me.

I plotted out all the mounting holes and the tie into the rear corner braces and then remembered a small L bracket that will also have to be worked in to the mounting holes that will be part of the support for the Tire and tool Swing I am body mounting.

I thought for sure when the chassis builder told me he only had a die for a 5.5" radius it was going to be to square looking but the neighbor guy and I took a good look at it based on the pattern and I think its just about right.

Photo soon as I have something to show.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2018 at 7:58pm
OK the tubes at the Race car chassis builders place should be bent up sometime today. Here's the final dimensions I am going with. The plates are 1/4" x 8" x 29 1/2"



Hope he hits my measurements. I just happen to have a 1.75" D spade bit for my APT large hole drilling set up on my Milling Machine and since the angle off set on the braces is not very much I should be able to just lock each one into my vise on the table and if I go nice and slow cut the angled curved notch for the joint without to much hassle. I have 2 or 3 pieces of scrap I can practice and test on.

Next big PITA will be drilling all the mounting holes. All of which have to go through 2 layers of 1/4" Boiler plate with the Wheel house 18 ga and about 1/2" of Micarta. I'll drill the two main plates clamped together so they match. Then I can use them to mark and drill the Micarta and Wheel house holes. And finally then the Backing plates under the Wheel houses. Hopefully I can do it all on the drill press as none of this would be fun with the big Black and Decker.

I'm currently cutting 45 degree angles on the ends of the Rock Sliders. Turns out I don't have enough of the 1.75" OD .095" wall tubing to make the supports. But I have some nice left over 1 x 2 x .090 wall rectangular that will do real nice. I have some extra 3" D 1/4" thick plates I bought to use as backing plates under the Roll bar that I will make the actual mounting flanges out of. 4) 3/8" holes and a couple small gussets should handle that end. I'm going to have them approx 1/2" below the edge of the body and about 1/4-3/8" out past the Tub.

I'm going to weld in a piece of square tubing at a slight downward angle right where its most convenient for there to be a small step to allow the wife easier access. This step will be removable so not to hang up on stuff on the trail. I been planning this one a long time knowing how climbing into CHUG would be for the wife. I want her to enjoy going with me so I'm doing what I can to make it easier and more comfortable. The step, a good heater and defroster setup, TUNES, the insulated hard top, etc.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2018 at 10:26pm
WOW he has them done already says he hit my dimensions within a 1/16th YAHOO better then I had hoped. But after seeing his shop I had no doubt I was going to be happy. And he's charging me $12.00 less then I expected. Another plus.

Now off to go get the last of the steel I need for the Rock Sliders. 100's of pounds of misc. steel around here and I never have something I need.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2018 at 5:05am
OK last couple days been banging my head on my rock sliders project. Here's where I am at so far.







1.75" D .090 wall DOM tubing for the slide 1" x2" x .090"wall tubing for the supports. The supports will be welded to the Slide and the mounts will all be 3/8" grade 8 bolts. Not looking forward to drilling the 16) 25/64" holes in the frame. This CJ-5 Frame is tough. I'll do that when the Tub comes off for putty work and paint soon. Be easier with a bare chassis.

This project has shown me an upcoming problem with the Clutch Pedal Arm hitting the 1 x 2" I used for Hat Channel so that will also get addressed once the Tub is on the rotisserie.

These are to big to fit in my sandblaster and I'm not going to do any more outside blasting. So I will be using my little hook and loop 2" random air sander to clean the tube up for Painting. I am going with the VHT Epoxy Satin Black I like the idea of being able to touch up any scratches quickly. I know real rock sliders should be a little father out then these will be (should only extend 1/4" -3/8" past the tub edge) but they are more for minor protection and a place to hang the step I am going to make so my wife has an easier time getting in and out of CHUG.

I'll never be doing the Rock crawling trail thing so I doubt they will come into play much if ever. They will add to the side impact safety a LOT compared to even my reinforced tub edge (I have 3/4" x 1 1/2" tubing under the edge of the tub between the Step and the rear wheel opening tied into both the hat channel and the structured Riser I made)

HOPEFULLY I can get the other one to this point tomorrow and get started on my roll bar. I have to cut the main hoop to height (the guy who bent the DOM tubing left me long uprights) and then the nerve racking angle cut to fit the braces to the main hoop. I have a 1.75" D cutter for the Milling machine to do this with. just have to get the length within about 1/8" and even on both sides and then hit the angle within a degree or so. NO SWEAT.

Then on to all those holes to drill.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
mkoloc View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 29 Oct. 2014
Location: OH
Status: Offline
Points: 323
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkoloc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2018 at 7:14am
Crisp and clean!  Beautiful Work.
LTC Mark Koloc (USA-RET)
MVPA#31144
OEF Afghan 03-04
OEF Africa 05-07
OEF KFOR 08-09
WTB 09-11
1942 Ford GPW
43 M16A2 Half-Track w/44 M10      
Trlr
1943 M3 Sct Car
1947 CJ2A
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2018 at 5:36pm
Last night I was fooling around with some spare parts and I noticed that a piece of scrap from my roll bar 1.75" OD x .120" wall DOM tubing was just the right size to be used for the rotating section of the toggle like trailer connector hitch I am making. I have some left over Polyurethane bushings from making hi performance trailing arms for my 66 Chevelle project I sold off. And they fit the tubing with just a tiny bit of play while a 3/4" D G8 Bolt will fit the ID with the same clearance.

I will be making a hitch that has the same geometry as this one:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/0f/59/65/0f59659b98879bfdb3634f493a0674d0.jpg

But a slightly different design. I know you ask why not just use a Pintle Hook and Lunette ring style like the military. Well they bang and clang and I want a connection with no play in it but full X-Y-Z articulation.

Anyway I am stoked I can use more scrap to build this. I think I now have everything I need to fabricate this unit when it comes time.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2018 at 7:48am
SO all about the Rock Sliders today. I started out with about 2 hours of sand blasting all the mounting and support pieces. I then washed the pieces in Prepal and hung them up to dry while I phosphate coated the Support arms (can't paint them until they are welded on the Runners and once on the runners to long to get into the sand blast cabinet) Then I went to epoxy painting all the mounting pieces (12 of them) I would paint each one and hang in on a rod when I got to the last piece the first piece was dry enough for the next coat (with epoxy paint you want it all on within an hour so the layers will cure together) used up a whole new can of VHT Epoxy Satin Black.

THEN I got adventurous and welded the end caps on the Runners. Once they cooled enough to handle using my stationary Belt grinder I ground them all out smooth and started a bit of an edge roll. A few places that didn't look like the weld went deep enough I rewelded. I might not be a great welder but after 14 years as a Custom Knifemaker I can grind almost anything smooth and pretty LOL.

I still got two ends to grind. Then I can try to figure out where to place the Support arms and get those welded. Then a bunch of sanding to get the runners ready for paint and A couple cans of VHT. And these bad boys will be done.

I'll drill the frame and get them mounted up once I have the Chassis out from under the Tub again in a couple weeks.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Millennium falcon View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 20 Sep. 2016
Location: Central PA
Status: Offline
Points: 1521
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2018 at 1:20pm
I like them! cant wait to see them mounted!
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2018 at 6:19am
Holes so many holes. Today I finished up the Runners for the Rock sliders and changed pace a little. I got all the holes drilled in the Roll bar base and backing plates. Then I managed to drill the holes in the right place through the Micarta "pillows" and the Tops of the Wheel houses. The hardest to get all lined up and drilled was the Two holes on each side that go into the Pieces I made to tie the roll bar bases to the Tubing frame work under the rear floor and to make an internal brace for the tire and tool swing I will have body mounted.

Had to put the braces in place before I could drill them. Lots of time on my old knees!

SO tomorrow I guess I do the nerve racking job of cutting my pretty bent tubing to length and joint for the roll bar. Main hoop NO PROBLEM I could do that with my big pipe cutter then a little dressing and its ready to tack weld. The rear braces NOT SO MUCH. I have to cut a half round joint with about a 10 degree angle to it. And the only tool I have to make this is the Milling machine with a large bore drill that uses spade type bits. I think I'll have to first drill a small pilot hole something like 1/4" then drill it out to 1" for the pilot on the spade cutter to fit into. SHOULD BE A BLAST after all I only have to get it dead right twice and I get two whole trys LOL.

Photos of the tragedy tomorrow hopefully.

Tomorrow if I have time (when not pulling my hair out over the roll bar) I am going to try to figure out exactly where to weld the Support arms on the Rock sliders. Man I love getting down on the floor and then back up over and over.  LOL

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2018 at 4:59am
OK before I talk about the Roll bar progress I did something fun tonight.

I made exactly what I wanted for my Firewall Heater Hose Bulkhead fittings. I wanted a fitting that would pass through the firewall and be secured with a nut. The only ones I could find in a 5/8" hose barb were from CHINA on eBAY. But they were not expensive and looked like I could make them work. ONLY problem was crazy ole me wanted then to make a 90 degree turn on the engine side of the firewall.

SO to the handy dandy local ACE hardware to wander the plumping isle in search of inspiration and parts.

This is what I came up with a couple of PEX 3/4" couplers (they measure just a shade over 5/8" since PEX is measured on the outside of the tubing) $2.39 and a pair of simple run of the mill 1/2" Copper 90 degree elbows. I picked the two nicest looking ones with the same sized sockets on both ends (yes I have a little OCD!)

and after 20 min on the lathe and some nervous rubber hammering here is what I have ready to solder together.



OK now on to the Roll bar progress. I managed to get the last of the mounting plate holes drilled and then get both plates bolted in place (Had to go buy MORE nuts as I didn't want to wear out my fancy Grade 10.9 Metric Nylon insert Lock nuts another .33 each) So anyway. I got the left side laid out for the main hoop and the brace.

Then I went to cut the main hoop to height. As I am planning on building an insulated aluminum structured hard top for CHUG and know exactly how I want it to look (dimensions and all that stuff) I had to make sure  the roll bar was not to tall and of course not to short. So working from the .050 skin of the top down through the frame work and the inside panels and a small gap then the roll bar padding etc. I arrived at  30" to the top of the Main hoop. 

I then laid the Hoop with its over length ends on the floor placed some 1-2-3 blocks touching the top of the hoop and then placed my 2" x 2" Aluminum straight edge across the ends of the Hoop and measured down 30" then I double checked it then I went and sat at the coffee table and drew out the structure of the top the gap the padding and the roll bar full scale to make triple sure I had the measurement where I wanted it.

Roll bar ends up 1" taller then Dads (which is good as I am 2" taller then dad and he figured his while wearing a Bell half helmet) and about 2" wider I wanted the Hoop closer to the sides of the Jeep.

HAD LUNCH

Went out and made sure the straight edge was in the right place and I scribed a line at 30" on each end. I then carefully wrapped masking tape around the tube at that point. I then used my cut off wheel on the HF 4.5" grinder and cut off the excess tubing getting it as close as possible to the tape line. After the grinder some Mill Bastard File time.  But it wasn't as close as I wanted so back to the Lathe and I made a Micarta sanding block that has a 2.25" L x 1.5"D  Pilot and a 2.5" D x 1" sanding block I could put sticky back sand paper on and use as a rotary grinder to make the ends of the tubing exactly square and even. Took a while to get both of them to that point but they are so good now the Hoop will stand up on the ends of the tubing.

Photos of the Mounting plates:

Right


Left


and main hoop sitting in place. I won't tack it in place until I make sure I can get the Braces cut properly tomorrow in case something needs to be adjusted cause I screwed something up.



Not a bad day for having to wander around the hard ware store for a while.


Edited by Mark W. - 25 Jan. 2018 at 5:02am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
leecarr View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 27 Sep. 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Status: Offline
Points: 910
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2018 at 2:38pm
Those bulkhead fittings are slick.
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2018 at 4:32pm
I thought I would add a little Steampunk to the Willys LOL. Wait until you see what I have for heater hoses. Course that will be down the road a bit.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2018 at 8:14pm
I think I hate compound rollbar joints.

Yep I'm sure. I measured the angle the cut needs to be where the brace meets the main hoop 3 times two different ways and came up with 10 degrees. SoI cut a piece of scrap to test and it was way off. Remeasured and it was 10 degrees. So I took a shot and recut it at 8 degrees. And guess what its pretty close now.

Off on an adventure with the wife when we get back Im making a new plywood pattern.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
leecarr View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 27 Sep. 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Status: Offline
Points: 910
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2018 at 10:37pm
This is some of my son's work, out of my league, all chromoly. 
Back to Top
Mark W. View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 09 Nov. 2014
Location: Silverton, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 7923
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2018 at 12:44am
Good lord Lee if that was supposed to look like that he's a Master Craftsman LOL! I made a much better pattern off of my bent tubing this morning and have been playing with squares and angle blocks and figuring out how long to cut the two ends of the tube. Turns out my angle was not steep enough for the brace to even hit the Main Hoop so I am taking 1.25" out of the vertical section of the brace (before it bends down to reach out and meet the main hoop) I was going for a 12" vertical section before the bend but I am going to end up with 10.75" which is fine it will still clear the storage box I want to make that will sit on the Wheel House's. I'm also going to make some aluminum clamps and platforms for a pair of Realistic Minimus 7 speakers to fit on that will attach to the Vertical section of tubing in the brace. These are a metal box speaker and I can screw directly into the bottom of the heavy metal enclosure to attach them. (since I am building an aluminum top they will be warm and comfy sitting in the back corners about shoulder height)

Waiting for some layout fuild to dry so I can go make my first compound half round cut on the Milling machine. All I have to do is get the tube at an 8 degree angle while the vertical section is level and it should come out. NO IDEA how to do that yet but thats the fun.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
Back to Top
leecarr View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 27 Sep. 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Status: Offline
Points: 910
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2018 at 1:06am
He does ok,he learned how to tig weld completely on his own. I can get both ends to fit but by then the piece is an inch too short, start over. I have better luck with wood. Looks like you have way more patience than me. If you have a chance look up DMC Racing in Halifax, Mass.,they do some wild stuff. I usually end up with a bunch of unplanned scraps to test angles on. 

Edited by leecarr - 26 Jan. 2018 at 1:08am
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 5152535455 140>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2022 Web Wiz Ltd.