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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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LuzonRed47 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2019 at 7:43am
The "Midas touch"...on steroids! Can't wait to hear an audio clip of Chug running once you bring the engine alive. Beautiful work!
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie"
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2019 at 10:46pm
So  I thought I should post a score on my exhaust system project so far.
I managed to find a way to fit a Tri Y style header on a 134L in a Willys.
Except for tube 3 I managed to get all the tubes within 1/2" of each other tube 3 is 1.25" short.
I keep all the exhaust except tube 3 at or above the bottom of the skid plate.
Tube 3 ended up 1.5" to low.
I cleared the oil pump, master cylinder, clutch linkage,etc.
Secondary's are within .375" of each other.
Tail pipe clears the axle range of motion plus .5"
Exhaust exits right where I wanted behind the right rear tire.
I spent way to much bought way more bends and straight pipe.
It took at least a week longer them I had imagined.
The construction of the exhaust has almost destroyed my back. To much leaning over I guess.
Lots of kudos from lots of jeep and hot rod guys.
Now to see if it works.

I learned a lot of stuff I will most likely never use the same way.

Completed Exhaust photos tomorrow.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Grumpy1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2019 at 6:33am
So, are you planning on a mass production of the header and intake? With a little more practice you could knock out a couple sets a week. Good to hear everything worked as you had planned.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2019 at 11:24am
Grumpy1 I seriously doubt I will ever do this again. I do plan on offering flanges. I might even try to figure out what bends were used and make up a list. But making another set of this exhaust is just not going to happen.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2019 at 5:54pm
SO all the welding is done on the tail pipe section I also have the hangers made and installed. And except for the OCD thing about the muffler being at a slight angle (though I might use that to my advantage and drill a small water drain hole) I'm satisfied. Now I have to decide what to paint it with to protect it until I have it Ceramic Coated. Depending on the cost I might have the Tail pipe done as well. I don't want to ever make another one of them either LOL.

SO here's the photo's

view from the right side


view from the rear in this one you can see how I have a nut behind the hanger rubber this is to have a lock nut on the bolt that acts as a stud for the rubber to hang on.


And the first hanger. They are made from some rubber I believe was used on a rock crusher at our gravel pit. Someone had pushed up a bunch of junk to clear room for a stock pile of rock and as I went by I spotted the thick rubber. Next lap I jumped out and snagged it. Its like a little thicker then 1/2" and about 6" x 48" nice addition to the horded pile of raw materials LOL.
I am a little worried about heat on this hanger as I have the tab welded directly to the tubing. But we will see if it gets to warm I'll figure out a way to fix it.


And the Exit side of the muffler hanger I threaded the bolt right into the 1/4" thick boxing plate. Worked out real well.

The muffler can bounce a little but is held pretty rigid in place.



And the Exit hole right where I wanted it. I can't wait to blow a bunch of noise out of this hole.


OK now to decide what to do next still gotta make some gaskets. Then I guess I can get back to the carb and throttle linkage as well as finishing up on the brake line stuff and routing some of the chassis wiring harness.

Always something to do!


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2019 at 6:57pm
Looks freaking amazing as usual!!
Can’t wait for the video of a bunch of noise. 
And hopefully hear it in person someday. 

Hard to tell in the pics will you have room to run tire chains on the back without hitting the tail pipe? 
Just wondering. 
I’ve only ever run chains on the front tires of my Flatfender. 
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2019 at 8:29pm
A Photo just for my friend from the north


The tires shown are the ones that were on CHUG when it was last driven on the road in 1976 they are 28" tall (8.45 x 15") The wheels are stock 15" CJ with 3.75" Backspacing.  There is currently a little more then 2.75" of clearance to the Tail pipe.

The tires I will be running will be 29" tall so that sucks up 1/2" of the 2.75" The Wheels are 6" wide but with the same off set so given the new tires are about 1/2" wider I'm thinking I should end up with about 1.75" of chain clearance. Which since I have a lot of experiance with chains (worked in a service station as a kid that sold and installed them as well as being the head ski trip and snow driver for the school bus depot here in town for 5 years (once chained up 3 buses in less then 20 min) Pretty sure I can keep them tight.

SO if I ever put chains on CHUG I should be good. Not a lot of room but enough.

Thanks for asking I had not thought about Chain Clearance at all.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2019 at 11:15pm
Thanks for the extra picture. 
 All the other pic angles just didn’t cut it I kept looking and zooming LOL
Doesn’t sound like you’ll have any issues with chains. 
The inside lip on the tub of my blue 2a is folded over from someone running loose chains... must have made quite a racket!Confused

I really like the way the tail pipe exists very clean looking and protected not sticking way out or hanging to low. 

Will be very interested in knowing how well the fumes exit.
On my blue 2a with the bikini top I have trouble with the fumes getting sucked into the jeep Dead
The tail pipe points straight out the side behind the rear tire flush with the tub. 
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2019 at 11:29pm
On a side note.... I see two bolts on your super cross member that are a thread and a half to short!
And also a rusty flat washer!!
I wouldn’t normally say anything... but I couldn’t resist.Smile
You’ve set high standards for Chug so I’m keeping an Eye on things LOL
Keep up the excellent workClap
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2019 at 7:35pm
Originally posted by Flatfender Ben Flatfender Ben wrote:

On a side note.... I see two bolts on your super cross member that are a thread and a half to short!
And also a rusty flat washer!!
I wouldn’t normally say anything... but I couldn’t resist.Smile
You’ve set high standards for Chug so I’m keeping an Eye on things LOL
Keep up the excellent workClap


YOU BUTT HEAD LOL you made me go out and take a look and your correct on the rusty washer. I think what happened is that it got heated up when I rewelded the little Brace after having to clean up a mess a buddy that did some welding for me left me with. And the heat effected the Cad coating.

I can't access that bolt/nut because all the Nuts and Bolts on the braces are individuals and do not go all the way through the frame (MUCH stronger with 8) 3/8" grade 8 bolts holding that together then a bolt and nut that wanted to crush the frame.

I do need to repaint the Rear Cross member it got real scratched up when the tub pretty much fell on the chassis before paint. So when I pull that whole rear end apart there's a number of things to be addressed.

I'm amazed no one has called me bubba it seams every time I turn around I am drilling another hole in the frame. Drilled 5 of them today. 1 to secure a cable block (something to keep the brake lines and fuel line from rubbing) and 4 to secure a little heat shield under the cross member in the middle of the bed. To protect the Brake line and the wiring coming from the Brake stuff on the left side.

You keep checking on me and I'll try to do better OK LOL.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2019 at 7:46pm
SO today I attacked the rear drive line. I have a perfectly good drive line from CHUG originally but a while back couldn't pass up a deal on a HD M-38 rear drive shaft. And then the guys here told me about the idea of having the ends cut off and the tube replaced with .120" wall DOM. Well it just so happened that I have a piece of 1.5" OD .120" wall DOM tubing left over from making the rock sliders I am going to be putting on CHUG.

Which is a good thing cause as I clean it up the Tube has a LOT of rust pitting. Luckily the Splines are really good. With them completely washed clean I can just barely fell any rotational play. Any less and I would say I could run into problems being to tight.

SO if the wife has a reason to go into Salem tomorrow I think I will run it by SIX STATES the local Drive shaft guru's and see what they say it will cost to retube it and then spin balance it. I already have the replacement rubber washer and cups.

A person wouldn't think about it but the rear drive shaft on a Willys jeep with 5.38 gears spins way faster then say a typical car with a 3.30 rear end. At 55mph with a 30" tire that little shaft is spinning at 3300 rpm so Balance is important . A car with the same height tires and 3.30 gears would only be turning about 2000rpm!

And OD or not makes no difference. As that only effects the engine RPM not the final drive.

Hoping since I have all the parts nice and clean that it won't cost a small fortune to get the shaft done. Running out of money as always this time of year.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2019 at 7:55pm
Yah I did notice all the scratches in the paint and figured you would notice the rusty washer when you touched up the paint. 

Just couldn’t resist giving you crapLOL
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2019 at 8:15pm
Fair enough we wouldn't want me to get to fat of head LOL
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2019 at 9:45pm
Mark,
Curious about your muffler. Is that a stock can or did you find something with the same dimensions but larger diameter input/output?
 
I want to increase the pipe diameter if I go with the Clifford headers. So, I'm looking for a muffler that fits.
 
Amazing work by the way. Those headers will look even more amazing after you get them coated.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A, Body & Frame: 106327, Engine: J109205, Tub and Tailgate: 97077. Originally Luzon Red

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2019 at 9:50pm
OH man I am pumped. The section of the M-38 Rear Drive shaft I have that slips over the splines and holds the forward U-Joint had rust pitting on the section that is the same diameter as the tube. AND it bugged me. I wasn't sure if I could clean it up and was figuring since it was basically cosmetic I would live with it. BUT then my OCD took over and I had to try to do something.

Since I only had less then 1/4" of it I could hold in the lathe chuck and still be able to cut the pits out.  I had to use my dial indicator to get it as close to dead center as possible. After about 10 min of screwing around I got it within about .001-.0015" of centered and then sharpened up a bit to make a single point cut. And I slowly only taking off .006" a pass I got the rust pits out and then made one good clean .010" pass and then using a nice fine cut mill bastard file and some 220 and 400 grit Sand paper I  have it super smooth.

Now all I need the Drive shaft shop to over charge me for is cutting the ends off the tube and refitting them to the new tube and balancing the assembly. This part is just beyond my lathes capacity.  I may even have to throw around the Bosses name as we do a lot of business with this shop and I am sure we get a discount. Got to save as much Willys money as possible in case its an extra week or so before we go back to work and I end up needing something not already piled up around here.

Front Drive shaft should have no drama. Its in good shape and should just require cleaning up and re U-Jointing to have it already for paint.




Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2019 at 10:07pm
Steelyard Blues

made by Dynomax performance. Part #24244

I got it from Summit but theres a much better price on Amazon


Its not going to be a Quiet muffler. Think old school cheap turbos like we used to hang under our Chevelles and Camaros. 

If its to loud theres a number of other options in the 14" body length that will fit so this was the go for it and see if I like it option LOL.

If you go to Summit or to Dyno Max they show a different muffler for the part number (mine looks just like the Amazon one and has the part number embossed on the side of it. Dynomax shows it as being a Race turbo and their loudest offering!!!!! you can hear what a pair of them sound like on a 2010 Camaro here:

http://www.dynomax.com/sounds-of-dynomax/?muffler=race-bullet-muffler

Not sure what 1/2 of that will sound like on CHUG but its not going to sound stock pretty sure of that LOL.


But there you have it LOL







Edited by Mark W. - 14 Feb. 2019 at 10:16pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2019 at 8:37pm
Well interesting day. I found out about a Swap meet at the State Fair Grounds so this morning I headed in cash in hand. No idea what I was holing to find. I really need no Jeep parts and I sure don't needs much of anything else. But the wife said I should go spending to much time in the shop.

Its of course pissing down rain and since I am a procrastinator the truck which needed a new water pump about a year ago wanted to over heat sitting in the very long line to park ($5) I get parked walk the 300 yards to the ticket booth and hand over another $5.00 and as soon as I opened the door I knew I never should have come.

It was a roundy round car swap meet. DIRT TRACK so I walked around looking at dirty crap I would never have a use for saw maybe 3-4 items that at some point in CHUGS progress I might have been interested in enough to pickup. But long since not needed. The only people in the place I knew was a driver that used to drive for us I never really got along with (his air of superiority was always a little to heavy for me) And I had walked right by him and his wife without even noticing him. Until I hear this "NO JEEP PARTS HERE" come at me from behind. I showed him some header photos he made no comment and I walked off.

Across the little access road was another building this one with a Hot Rod show going on so I walked around to the ticket booth for that but when I saw the line was 20 min long I just headed to the pickup. All car shows do for me lately is make me upset cause all I think about is how CHUG isn't finished.

SO back home I get right to work on my E Brake linkage a couple of good ideas having come to me last night. I have the majority of it done. But I need to stuff all the parts in the rear brake drums so I can tell how much travel I will need for the cables. And I have to figure out how to get the cable from the Cane up and over the Transmission cross member. Seams I can either rub on the transfer case pan or the cross member but not miss both at the same time. I got a solution but it will have to wait until tomorrow.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2019 at 8:09pm
WOW today was interesting. I now have the leverage unit for my E-Brake linkage all fleshed out I like the way it came out.

SO now that I have this thing that goes between the Rear Wheel Cables and the Dash Cane cable I need to know if it will fit and if it will work. SO I have to assemble my rear brakes. That was fun over the years I have done a LOT of drum brakes Heck one of the classes I took in Collage was Brakes. But something about being OLD and sitting on the cement floor cussing in ENGLISH made it even more fun. Luckily no bleeding and I am pretty sure I got them together correctly.

SO I go to see where this complicated leaver thing is going to fit. And it looks like its going to end up a little behind the edge of the skid plate. Which works out well I think I'm waiting to get one more piece done before I try to assemble it. Of course I can't test it cause I have no way to pull on the CANE since the tub isn't on the Chassis. And the brakes aren't adjusted.

I did notice that my original 15" wheels will not fit over my drums (no they are not the finned style) so I guess its a good thing I am going to be running after market wheels.

I'm tired from crawling under CHUG a dozen times today testing this thing it better work. Looks cool. I guess thats something.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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