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axle shaft types

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sean View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Jan. 2007 at 4:23pm
Axle shaft types which might be found in Dana 25 front axles.  Click diagrams to enlarge.

Early axle shafts were either Bendix or Rzeppa joint.  These used shims to set end play, and a castle nut & cotter pin to hold in place to the driving flange.

    
  • A1: p/n A-853, spindle bushing
  • B:   p/n A-780, thrust washer (needed ONLY for Bendix axle)
  • C:   p/n A-6362, axle shaft bushing
Note the nut on the end of the axle shaft, and the spline "bump stops" just inside of the driving flange.

Thrust washer "B", and shaft bushing "C", were installed in all axle housings, even though only necessary for Bendix axles.

Sometime in early CJ3A production, the design was changed to eliminate the threaded axle end, the nut & cotter pin, and the need to use shims to set end play.  Bendix, Rzeppa and Spicer joint axles were used in this new configuration.

    
  • A2: p/n 649783, spindle bushing w/flanged thrust face.
To use a new style axle shaft in an old axle housing, you need to swap spindle bushing A1 for A2.

Note the nut on the end of the axle shaft has been replaced by a snap-ring, and the spline "bump stops" have been eliminated.  The new style Bendix axle shaft DOES NOT USE the snap ring, it's only used on Rzeppa and Spicer axle shafts.

End float of the Bendix shaft is set by the flanged face of "A2", and thrust washer "B".

End float of Rzeppa & Spicer shafts is set by the flanged face of "A2", and the snap ring.

NO SHIMMING NECESSARY!  Only threaded axles require shimming.

Edited by sean - 29 May 2008 at 1:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2007 at 9:06am
How to ID which type axle you have installed.

In the absence of original ID tags (which are suspect anyway), take a peek through the knuckle fill plug hole.  You'll need to remove the wheel & tire, or use a mirror, to see clearly.

The yellow box shows the approximate view you get through the filler hole (top to bottom: Bendix, Rzeppa, Spicer):

    

With the knuckle in the straight ahead, or slightly toe-in, position, rotate the axle through 360ยบ:
  • Bendix - you'll see the yoke lobes & maybe catch a glimpse of each ball bearing
  • Rzeppa - you'll see nothing but solid metal
  • Spicer - you'll see the yokes & 1/2 of each bearing cap
Sean


Edited by sean - 25 Apr. 2009 at 10:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stantr6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2010 at 7:32am
Sean, et.al.,
I have the bendix front axle, on the L side, in my 1942 GPW, arrangement is exactly at the top illustration.
 
Do you know a source for bushing "C", A6362 ?
 
Somewhere in its history, the RF axle was changed to a Spicer, needing A2 bushing like the bottom illustration, but it still had the A1 bushing, which are now impossible (for me, anyway) to find.  Kaiser Willys had the flanged A2 bushing, which I installed in the R spindle.  I cut off the flange and installed the altered A2 in the L spindle.  I got the B thrust washers, but wound up with oil seals in stead of bushings for part "C" bushing.
 
Need the A6362 bushings - pls help.
thanx,
Stan
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2010 at 11:05am
Stan:
Quote Do you know a source for bushing "C", A6362 ?
Ron Fitzgerald Jeep Parts:

http://www.vintagejeeps.com/p-766-front-axle-tube-outer-bushing.aspx
 
Quote ... I cut off the flange and installed the altered A2 in the L spindle.
There's no need to cut it off.  It will work as-is with a threaded Bendix axle, just use shims as called for in the manual.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 11acs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2010 at 2:09pm
[/QUOTE]There's no need to cut it off.  It will work as-is with a threaded Bendix axle, just use shims as called for in the manual.
Sean
[/QUOTE]

I'll second that. I installed mine with the flanges & there was clearance. Then shimmed to specs.
Victor



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stantr6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2010 at 6:53am
Thanks All...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64CJ5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb. 2017 at 8:48pm
Just got my Model 25 with the Bendix shafts apart to day.  No threads for a nut or snap ring groove.  Also no thrust washer.  Replacement parts are ordered.
 
I cleaned out globs of grease from the knuckles.  

Thanks for the information listed here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CarloPel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2017 at 12:21pm
Sean:
Although this thread is an old one, I've just acquired a 42 GPW that may need axle work.  

I've removed the right front hub, and determined I have the Bendix axle( with nut and bump-stops)
and am concerned about excess end play (float?). I can move the axle almost a full 1/4" in and out of the Spindle. Also, does the axle float in the spindle?  I can see no bearings, etc. that align the axle shaft inside the Spindle, except for the bump-stops. My axle seems to wobble around in the Spindle. 

I do not have a manual to give me the spec's for end-play, as I was not anticipating having to tear down the knuckle assembly, but appears now I will.

If you can give me some guidance on end-play spec's, then maybe I can assess how bad my problems are.

Thanks for any info ...
 
CarloPel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote radarjammer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2018 at 12:08pm
This is a super-clear explanation!

However, I think I am doing something completely wrong.

- I replaced my old Bendix axles for Spicers and am putting everything together for a fit test BEFORE replacing the outboard spindle bushings from (A1) to (A2).  I expected it should have excess end-play with the old (A1) bushings but am finding that I cannot even fully mount the passenger spindle to the steering knuckle.  It sticks out about 1/8 inch and even light torque binds the axel noticeably.

I would appreciate any thoughts helping me to see what I am doing wrong.




Pair of 1946 CJ-2A's
... inprogress
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote radarjammer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2018 at 4:05pm
Minor update:
 - replaced the spindle bushings from (A1) to (A2).
 - driver side goes together fine.  end play is good.
 - passenger side has the issue described below (though after measuring, I see it actually sticks out about 1/4" too far, and not 1/8" as I mentioned before).

Q:  Is it possible that this spicer axle is 'too long'?  (i.e. not the correct axel for my dana 25), or that the inner bushing is incorrect?




Edited by radarjammer - 24 Nov. 2018 at 12:14pm
Pair of 1946 CJ-2A's
... inprogress
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