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Buick V6 into CJ2A, minimal mods... |
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LesBerg 
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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 Posted: 18 July 2016 at 5:41am |
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Thanks Mudrider! That looks sharp!
I mocked that up, but I'm keeping the factory flathead mounts, so the manifold dumps right into the mount. I have my engine mounts built and I'm working on modding the driver's side header right now. For me, it makes more sense to redesign the driver's side header than to build a crossover pipe and wrap the exhaust under the motor. I've been a mechanic for many years, and my preference is to be able to drop anything from the oil pan back without exhaust interference. At the moment, everything fits with no modifications that can't be undone in a few minutes. Everything can be returned to factory specs fairly quickly, with the exception of the transmission input shaft. My single clearance issue is the way the oil filter mounts on the Buick 231 Oddfire. it points forward and down instead of to the right, as yours does. While this is nice from the standpoint that I can retain the factory battery tray, I run the risk of a diff-strike at full spring compression on the right side. I'm planning on a remote filter to cure the issue. I'll post motor mount and exhaust pics tomorrow... Still haven't picked up a flywheel. We've had a lot of things come up that needed attention first. Les |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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Mudrider1966
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Joined: 02 Apr. 2016 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Posted: 19 July 2016 at 12:15am |
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thanks,
Im planning on a remote oil filter mount also because I don't like that mine could also be hit by the front diff and I still have to put a battery somewhere. Im using a 52 M38 frame because its built stronger and the brake/ clutch pedal mount is bolted on so I can move it if I need, to make all that stuff work right. I had to modify my rear mount for the trans/ t-case because of the motor being offset 1". Im gonna also have to modify the floor for the trans and tcase shifters because they don't line up with the original holes. I have researched for months trying to find some instructions on motor height and have only found that everybody does it a little different. my goal is to not modify the hood for clearance on the air intake, and not cut the inner fenders for exhaust so it looks just like a original CJ2A but with a 100 more HP. the M38 body was beat up real bad so I used a 48 CJ2A body that's real straight but still needs a floor and some work on the rocker panels. I bought an adapter kit from Advance adapters so I could mount the T90 trans and Dana 18 t-case. It had a t-14 and Dana 20 originally but the dana 20 has a centered rear output instead of the offset output. Im using the factory manifolds also to retain the factory steering,( I may have to cut a small piece out of the bell housing because the drag link rubs when I turn. still haven't tackled that problem yet. I was think about putting the battery under the dash on the passenger side like the M38 has, but make the access door flush so it wont be as noticeable. If u have any question ill help if I can, and if I have any ill post on here because im still working on mine. here are a few more pics of mine. here is the new body, the old body is at the bottom.       |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 30 July 2016 at 6:28am |
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I've been busy lately, again.
Looking good, Mudrider. I determined engine height simply by what it took to clear the tub at the trans hump, stock 2A steering and setting the centerline of the drivetrain offset 3/4 inch left of center. It's tight everywhere, but there's clearance. We'll see if that holds up on the trails. I slotted my tub at the twin stick about 3/4 inch, and that's the only tub mod I've needed to do. I'm getting the run-around out here from an old-timer that owns a private jeep/military rig scrapyard. Apparently I'm not racist or militant-survivalist enough to pass muster as a customer. (I'm not racist at all, and not a militant survivalist, either. Most of what he was going on about can't be posted here, and I really don't want to repeat it, lest someone think either I said it or agreed with it. Absolutely not!) He kept feeding me BS about how the flywheel I'm looking for is the wrong one (looking for a Dauntless flywheel for my Buick OddFire): First he said the flange on the crank was different from the Dauntless to the Buick OddFire (it's BS, they use the same crank and are interchangeable between blocks). Then he said they used a Dauntless flywheel on a 231 owned by a Canadian working the oil sands, and that he had to return it because it vibrated like mad. This, of course, contradicted his first yarn about not being able to bolt it up... Then he sends his son, who's my age, into the back to look up a flywheel from a 75 Buick Skylark. He returns about five minutes later and tells me he can get one in five days for $68, and that it's a 158 tooth unit. At this point, I told them I'd give them a call and I left. Too much BS. ALL of the Dauntless motors used a 160 tooth flywheel, as did the non-metric Buick 231s, whether they were Even- or Odd-Fire. It was a disappointment, really. I went out hoping to have a chat with a guy who had been doing jeeps and military trucks all his life and get a straight story about what works and what doesn't. Instead, I got a load of BS from a bitter old man. His life, his choice, I guess. On a happier note, I spent way too much money on the last bit of tubing I needed to finish the driver's side header. I paid $38 for six feet of 2.5x.120 DOM tubing. Yeah, you read that right. I'm building headers out of roll-bar grade tube  . All the local shop had when I bought the 1.5 and 1.75 tubing was .095 wall tube. I'm fine with the heavier wall tube. It's easy to work with and should last the next quarter-million miles. The upper collector/'Y':  The lower collector  Finished piece. It's not pretty. It's not light. It probably even leaks. But I promise it's going to work exactly the way I want it to and may outlast the rest of the jeep:  mocked in, nicely clears the steering box, pitman arm, motor mount, and frame:  Just clears the drag link:  Closer to the brake line than I'd like. I'll relocate the line to the top of the frame:, at the corner of the strap. The spacer plate will get trimmed to the chalk line:  underneath. Clears the master cylinder, cross member, and linkages:  At this point I'm debating where to dump the exhaust. Follow the stock path to the right rear, or cross under the bell housing and dump in front of the right rear tire... The first option would be more correct, but the second would be easier and less expensive. And at the moment, I'm under another deadline. Tichelle informed me Wednesday evening that the jeep needs to be drivable no later than August 16. From the 16 to the 25 (I think), there will be a B-25 Mitchell at the Coeur d'Alene airport (also known as Pappy Boyington Field). Pictures of you and/or your vehicle with the bomber are $10 each. I MUST make this deadline.
Edited by LesBerg - 30 July 2016 at 4:49pm |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 30 July 2016 at 11:32pm |
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My apologies everyone, I didn't mean to sound so negative in my last post.
I've gotten spoiled being part of this community, where everyone is happy to share experience and knowledge. Either way, I'll quit ranting about it and carry on with getting this thing running. For my part, I'm going to take Novak at their word that Dauntless and Buick Oddfire flywheels can swap. If anyone knows this buisness, it's Novak. My conundrum is identifying the adapter I have. It appears that some T90 to Buick adapters can use either flat or dished flywheels, while others work only with one or the other. So I gotta figure it out, and quick. Edited by LesBerg - 30 July 2016 at 11:39pm |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 31 July 2016 at 1:32am |
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This is the bell-to-T90 adapter I have. Can anyone identify it? There are marking on the back side, but I can't make them out.
BTW, the unit measures 2 5/8 thick...    thoughts?
Edited by LesBerg - 31 July 2016 at 1:44am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 31 July 2016 at 1:59am |
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Score! This is the one:http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage-Sale-Trans-Dapt-Manual-Transmission-Adapt-Chevy-V8-To-Jeep-T-90-3-Speed,54515.htmlLol, now I need a model number...
Ok. It seems to be a TD-25.... maybe?
Edited by LesBerg - 31 July 2016 at 6:35am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Online Points: 4178 |
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Posted: 31 July 2016 at 7:58pm |
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Yes TD-25.
That's a Trans Dapt for T90 to Gm bell housing pattern @ 2-5/8" thick. Must install a long maindrive T90 J /@ 18 tooth maindrive gear yeilding a 2.798 first gear ratio. Not the best transmission choice behind a Dauntless in a flatty but pretty easy to convert. The Trans Dapt fits the BOP bell housing very nicely as the shape / form is very smooth looking. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Flatfender Ben
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Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Posted: 31 July 2016 at 9:04pm |
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That header is a work of art
 I've seen art sculptures that weren't that cool 
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 01 Aug. 2016 at 1:48am |
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Thanks Oldtime! Am I correct to believe I can use a Dauntless flywheel with this setup? Since I bought the driveline as a complete setup, sans the flywheel, I have the input shaft.
The package I bought was advertised as a 231 Oddfire/T18/D20. It wasn't. It was another T90/D18 setup. It makes it easier to install, though, and easier for me to return to stock down the road when I get my hands on a running flatty. It seem to me that the following parts would be used, please correct me if I'm wrong:CJ5 pilot bushing CJ5 clutch GM something-or-other throw out bearing T90 input shaft bearing Not sure about the seal in the included bearing retainer. Thanks FFBen, I appreciate it. I still need to build the other side and finish up the exhaust. I'm getting closer to getting this thing road-worthy, but it's still a long way to go. Edited by LesBerg - 01 Aug. 2016 at 1:50am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 01 Aug. 2016 at 3:44am |
Oh, that curve on the rear cylinder was made on a Harbor Freight tubing roller  aaaand it probably wasn't intended to do a nice job on .065 - .095 wall tubing....
Edited by LesBerg - 01 Aug. 2016 at 4:26am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Online Points: 4178 |
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Posted: 01 Aug. 2016 at 7:13pm |
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CJ5 pilot bushing
WRONG Buick engine crankshaft will accept a .75" OAL bushing at 1.090" O.D. T90 will require a .625 pilot I.D. but the normal Dauntless CJ-5 uses .590 pilot I.D. Special custom pilot bushing will be required for GM crankshaft to accept T90 maindrive pilot CJ5 clutch MAYBE / MAYBE NOT Depends on flywheel you install. The 225 Dauntless flywheel accepts a 10.5" clutch but the 231 Buick can only accept a 9.125" clutch. GM something-or-other throw out bearing You can run a sealed T90 main drive bearing if you like.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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mbullism
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Posted: 01 Aug. 2016 at 7:33pm |
Agreed
... it has a certain "Mad Max" meets steam punk feel to it  |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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RICKG
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Joined: 08 Jan. 2015 Location: so idaho Status: Offline Points: 1941 |
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Posted: 01 Aug. 2016 at 7:44pm |
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I gotta see the pics of your rig and the B25, Les.. I got fotos of my M38 with "Maid in the Shade" here in Twin Falls a couple of years ago..
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I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52 '50 CJ3A "Bucksnort". Keep 'em Rollin' |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 02 Aug. 2016 at 4:54pm |
I have the T90-J input shaft. I'll mic it and see what the measurements are. At this point, I'm planning on a Dauntless flywheel, either from Herm or Olympic 4x4. I have to dig up the clutch that came with this setup, but I'm sure Murphy's Law will ensure it's the wrong one. Thanks for the assistance, I really appreciate it. BTW, what makes the T90 a poor choice for the V6? Is it just that there are better options, or is not heavy enough for the extra power? |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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mbullism
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Posted: 02 Aug. 2016 at 5:28pm |
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I ran a T90 behind a "160hp" dauntless for ten years or more, hooker headers, dual point Mallory distributor, MSD coil, crane cam, etc... 200hp on paper. Mild lift, 33" tires and did simply mean, nasty, awful things to that rig with nary a care for the transmission... barring a pre existing issue with your tranny, imo you should be fine.
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Lemield
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Joined: 18 Jan. 2008 Location: Arvada Colorado Status: Offline Points: 501 |
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Posted: 02 Aug. 2016 at 7:43pm |
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Looking good Les....like all the work I've seen you do on this board.
Hope you get the CJ2+2A going soon.
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Larry
1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered 1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red" 1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon" 2001 Mercedes CLK320 2003 Cadillac Seville |
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Online Points: 4178 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2016 at 12:47am |
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I love the Jeep T90 I've run them long and hard for over 40 years.
The T90 is certainly ultra light yet durable but that's really its only huge claim to fortune. Several concerns with a T90 J behind a Dauntless in a flatfender CJ. T90 J yeilds 2.798 first gear reduction. That high of first gear is acceptable with 5.38 final drive ratio (FDR). Not so great if your FDR is higher as it effect the "take off ratio". 2.798 x 5.38 yields a "take off ratio" near 15/1 which is.... well ..... STANDARD for the WILLYS CJ's. Non synchronized first gear. A tad noisy because it is straight cut. Requires 2-5/8" adapter plate and it still sets the Dauntless 1" too close to the firewall unless the transfer case is moved foreward. The adapter provides you with little more than 2-5/8" of unused mass. The extra mass only adds weight and takes up space. IMHO T15 is the best choice for a Dauntless flatty with 3 speed. IMHO T18 is the best choice for a Dauntless flatty with 4 speed. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2016 at 6:45pm |
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I should be OK with the T90 then. I'm not planning on a gear/axle swap. FDR should remain close to stock as the tires I'd like to use are 30.5 inches tall (Cooper Discover STT in 215/85R16).
The noise and lack of synchro don't bother me in the slightest. At the moment, the V6 is tucked close to the firewall - I haven't moved it forward. I'll mock up the radiator and see how everything looks. Bringing it forward a bit would give me a little more wiggle room where the clearance is questionable. Back when I was thinking about which trans to use, I opted out of the T18 because of it's incredible weight. I'm not sure what the T90 weighs, but the T18 tips in at 145lbs. I'd love four gears, but I'm trying to keep the overall weight low. |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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Flatfender Ben wrote: