Building a spray booth |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 3:41am |
So for those that have painted their own projects a few questions.
If you had your choice between Florescent lights and daylight which would you prefer? How wide would you make it would 4ft on either side of the Tub be enough? (I will be painting the tub while on a rotisserie) Would 7ft high be high enough if I am relying on natural light? How much room should I allow for the Hood, fenders, grill, and tailgate (I plan on hanging all of them so the surface is vertical) I was thinking something like 14' x 20' My plan at this time is to build a booth using heavy transparent visqueen (like 4-6mil.) and 2x2 and 2x4 supports that would break down so I can store it between Primer and top coat. I have a ventalation system designed which should help with the over spray and of course I will be using the proper painting suit and respirator. Paint will be Epoxy Primer and two part Acrylic Urethane I have a gravel driveway so I am thinking about grading it out as smooth as I can get it and putting down sheets of OSB so I have a smooth surface under the Visqueen. My carport shop just isn't wide enough to paint in unless I would be able to push the Tub from one side to the other and I just don't think thats a good idea even if I made wheels for the rotisserie. Visqueen is cheap and I can always find a use for the lumber on other projects. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Want a good case of "shop envy"? Check out m38mike's Fall Colors Tour thread. The pic he's posted with his working two-post lift (as if that's not enough) shows it right next to his visqueen paint booth--inside his main shop. It's definitely a good idea to build your paint booth.
Edited by Ol' Unreliable - 27 May 2017 at 11:01pm |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
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tough call the booth is never big enough , if you build a booth you will need to move the air and over spray out and not create dust when moving the air, I have painted out in the open with natural light ( no people, cars or things to get overspray on and watered down the area before painting ) and turned out very good, another option is to rent a booth for the day and take advantage of down draft air and water traps, it depends on your expectations on the quality of the paint job you want, showroom, show quality or what it looked like from the willys factory, if you have ever seen original paint on older cars up close some people would be very surprised at how rough it really is
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lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
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IronAge52
Member Joined: 22 Aug. 2016 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 257 |
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I have painted many projects big and small in the great out doors with great results.I paint early in the morning with little or no breeze on cool metal. never spray on hot metal and of course chance of rain. Constructing a paint booth would be a big pain plus ventilation is a big problem.
As Shadow said , renting a good booth for a day is a good option,I have done that myself a couple of times. |
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gearwrencher
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4412 |
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I've seen guys use the plastic and build a booth in their garage. Then a furnace filter to let air in and a box fan in the window to let overspray out. Lots of lights top and side. Wet the floor with water for dust control. Constant warm temperature coming in. Above 70 degrees. Todays paints have temperature and time windows for application. Read their requirements. Outside light is fantastic, but------bugs, wind, rain, and cottonwood tree cotton are killers. Moths and wasps are like B52 bomber crashes! Especially when they struggle all the way accross the wet hood. Miller moths leave lots of grey fibers. That's a case for Miller Time beer for sure. You may begin with perfect outside conditions, but if using base clear coat paint, you'll run out of your time application window and the conditions will change. Military OD or flat paints work best. even runs look good! I'm a expert with these.
The solvents mixed with the color have different flash or drying times between coats. Adhere to these or talk to a guy who paints for a living on advice with each paint type. It can make or break your finish. Too wet it runs, too dry it has bad orange peel. Clean, clean, clean. Wipe down your primer job with paint safe clean up solvent. Just your hand print on it can cause fish eyes. Then use a beeswax rag and air to blow off any rag lint. Start painting on the upwind side. With a Jeep tub, I put the tailgate opening down wind. With a WW2 Jeep, you are screwed. It's like painting inside a box. Overspray and dry spots are a big problem. Paint the hardest places first and then move out from there. Up under the dash, and the small vertical rise above the rear wheel wells are hard to do. Tool box inside also. Good luck!
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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I was planning on using two 20 x 20 hepa type furnace filters for the intake and then two 20" square box fans with a 4) 20 x 20 filter box behind them. I would be painting at below 80 degrees as that is what my activator is for.
I'm thinking on using Nitrogen for the Top coat propellant. Thats what I used on my flying model airplanes and I have three LARGE (like 4ft tall) Nitrogen tanks. The advantage is its perfectly dry. I'll have to decide that when I see if they can be refilled without the expensive testing. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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BIG JOHN
Member Joined: 09 Aug. 2013 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 260 |
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I use clear mesh tarps for my booth. I hang them from the overhead door tracks and a cable that runs across my shop. I typically mop the floor first, lay down a 16x20 blue tarp and spray away. The booth ends up being about 14' x 18'. It'smuch easier to hang a tarp then a sheet of plastic. This is what I use http://www.tarpsplus.com/clear-tarps.html
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BIG JOHN
1947 CJ-2A 1946 Bantam T3C trailer 2015 Chevy Silverado Z71 CC 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2004 Jeep LJ |
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3191 |
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Use a heavy enough visqueen that it won't tear easily. I didn't and I was always re-stapling it to the framework I built.
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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This has been my basic set up. Frame suspended from the rafters. Frame on the floor. Universal furnace filters duct taped to the
back wall. Heavy mill plastic for the
walls. The front wall folds down for
easy access. It gets taped closed when
in use. I leave one corner open, but
with a door flap, to access the booth.
The big orange shop fan in the picture is placed in the front wall with
a filter mounted on the booth side. The
booth is 12’x14’x8’. 1,400 ish CF. The fan can move 4,000 CFM on high. I only needed the slow setting. (2,800 CFM)
I made this to be able to assemble and disassemble as needed. At the end of the day, I still need to use my garage. |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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m38mike
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3798 |
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Mark,
I built a freestanding frame of 2x4 and 1x4 wood. I hung clear 6 mil plastic on the inside using a staple gun and stapling thru small squares of cardboard over the plastic. The cardboard keeps the staples from ripping the plastic. Then I put 1x2 boards against the 2x4 from the inside to keep the plastic in place. I built my booth originally 10' wide by 16' long by 8' tall. That was snug but gave me enough room to paint 2 Jeeps and a car, plus lots of separate parts. I have a 12"x24" air filter for my air intake taped in the wall on the far side from my suction fan. I have a 160 cfm squirrel-cage fan sucking air out of the booth thru a 4 inch dryer hose and blowing the foul air out of the building. I don't use a box fan because of all the crap in the air stream that can catch on fire, and the box fan motor is in the air stream. This creates a negative pressure envelope for the booth. By limiting the replacement air to that coming in through the filter, I get rid of almost all of the dust, all the insects, and all the plant material that might damage a paint job. I put my fan on a 16 hour timer so I can leave it on overnight, and it will automatically shut off. I have four halogen work lights on the frame OUTSIDE the booth to provide light. I don't want them getting painted, or possibly causing a spark in that toxic air. The wood frame is all built on 4 foot spacing. My upright studs are 4 feet apart. Across the top I have 2x4x10' studs attached to the 2x4x8' wall studs. I use the 1x4's as bracing and horizontal members to hang the plastic on. I was looking for some good photos to share but I can't find any just now. I'd be happy to take some if you'd like. By controlling the air space inside the booth, you are most likely to get a good paint job. And this design is inexpensive, easy to take down or put up, and it works. I've had mine up for about 10 years now. I expanded it once to paint my neighbors horse trailer. I'm about to take that expansion down. I use a HF 2-quart paint pot with 7 feet of hose to the paint nozzle. I hang the paint pot on hooks along the walls to make sure it remains upright. By having the spray nozzle separate I am able to paint at any angle, in any space, on the jeep. It does a good job once it's adjusted to the paint you're using. I use my regular air compressor for pressure. I run it through a dessicant filter and a regulator to keep it about 20 lbs pressure. Much less and I don't get enough push on the paint. Much more and I get a fog instead of a spray. I use a 2-filter respirator and a full tyvex suit when I mix and spray paint. Even then I usually have to leave my work clothes in the mud room when I go back in the house because then smell bad to my wife. I do all my mixing and cleanup in the booth to limit contaminants and control the toxic smell of the cleaning and thinning chemicals. With the fan running, I can stand just outside my air filter opening and I cannot smell any paint outside the booth. All the contaminated air is getting blown out of the shop thru the 4 inch hose. I hope this helps. If you'd like to use it, you're welcome to come by. |
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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All excellent ideas
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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