Capt Pattsy's Project |
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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I used the 9" long geo tracker hoses. I'm going to put a 10mm fitting on the end of the hard lines. Will show pics upon completion
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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Great. I am going to use the Geo Tracker hoses on the one I do instead of spending $80 to have custom hoses made up.
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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How did you guys set it up that you only need 9" brake lines? I'm overlooking something there.
Cap'n, your jeep is looking great. You've come a long way from the pile-o-parts you started with! EDIT I'm missing something big. The lines I'm finding for the Geo and the Suzuki are either 8.25 or over 20 inches, and run about $30 each. What year/model are you finding the lines on? I priced parts out at Summit Racing to fab my own lines using braided stainless and the cost will be about $70 total.
Edited by LesBerg - 23 May 2017 at 7:06am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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Sorry I meant the 8.25 lines. I'm using the hose to turn the corner then connect to the hard lines at the end of the axles. I am trying to find a house clip mount that I can hose clamp to the axle but if not the connection can just be floating and the hard line secured
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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I haven't gotten to the front yet. I want to wrap up the rear before I start on the front. Though anything with a 10mm banjo on one end and a 10mm female flare on the other end should work. Don't quote me on anything till I have everything together and working
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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Wrapped up the rear. The 8.25 inch long tracker brake hoses worked great. I made new 3/16" hard lines to the diff with M10 fitting on one side and 3/8 on the other. Worked great.
On the passenger side the wheel was rubbing a tad on the brake caliper so ground a hair off and it fit great. I used the original wheel studs on the driver side and upon assembly they look a little short. The knurled neck was a too long and sticking out into the brake hub necessitating me to drilling out the holes 5/8". On the passenger side I bought new dorman studs and they fit great in the tracker discs, I did hand drill them to 9/16 and it fit wonderfully. Here's the left and right sides. Now for the front...
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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Now that it's feeling like spring here in southern Utah I finally got around to finishing the last wheel disc-brake conversion. I've had the parts lying around for a few months.
I went to fill the new but 6 year-old master cylinder and found it full of rust scale so I had to wait another week for the new one to come in the mail. My wife helped pump the brakes and she stops!! I couldn't wait another minute, wrapped everything up and headed down the street. Nothing fell off! I was laughing like a mad man. 7 years is a long time to work on a project and never know if the thing will even move. Here's the second pass down the road. http://youtu.be/j9RY0dShCdA Now on the list of 2 dozen things to fix before its street legal and mostly safe to drive:) |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Yeah!
I love your daughter chasing you down the street. Your build must be about as old as she is.
Get it all sorted so we can hit Sand Hollow together. |
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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Sounds great Stan:) Sounds like grampa's jeep is about back on her feet/tires.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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There's always some little thing, but I'd be comfortable loading up the trailer and heading out as is. Thinking about building some sort of slider/skid plate to protect the pedal crosstube. That thing takes a beating.
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LuzonRed47
Member Joined: 11 Apr. 2007 Location: Plymouth, MI Status: Offline Points: 841 |
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Daniel, yours is one of the most inspired 2A 'resurrections' yet! I know the challenges of working in a small space.
Can you give us some feedback on how your frame finish has held up over the past 7 years? Rustoleum rusty-metal 'red oxide' primer has its share of detractors, but no one can deny that it's 1) affordable and 2) easily repaintable. I'm interested in learning how your frame (and running gear) paint has endured. The pics seem to show it still looks pretty good overall.
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CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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Thanks! It was kept under a carport for a couple years, then parked outdoors for a couple years in the rain and sun, but its been in a garage for the last two years. The paint seems really hard, not soft, and I haven't had any flaking at all. When it does get scratched it shows the brown primer underneath. That's the main reason I wanted to use rustoleum; so that when it gets damaged I can just rattle-can fix it. I sanded the primer before I painted. It seems like the bucket rustoleum is a little better than the aerosol as I can control thickness by thinning instead of number of coats.
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LuzonRed47
Member Joined: 11 Apr. 2007 Location: Plymouth, MI Status: Offline Points: 841 |
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All good feedback, thanks for sharing. Keep up the great work!
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CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Looking great! What master cylinder did you go with? thanks!
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captianpattson
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: ST GEORGE, UT Status: Offline Points: 770 |
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Just the stock MC. Just the added gripping force makes a big difference. My research on the g503 said it would be fine to use the stock one. I don't need to "stand" on the pedal at all.
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Thanks good to know. My jeep axles had discs on them when I bought it. It also has the stock MC. I haven't driven it yet.
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Sorry for all the questions... did you need wheel spacers? what wheels are you running? Thanks
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jeeper50
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Spanish Fort AL Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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I think you would need an adjustable proportioning valve for the single master cylinder setup, and maybe even a residual pressure valve to keep pressure on the front and have zero pressure on the drums when your foot is not on the pedal
just my $.02
Edited by jeeper50 - 06 Feb. 2018 at 1:33pm |
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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