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Willys Jeep Disk Conversion for $250 |
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mickeykelley 
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Joined: 26 May 2016 Location: Republic of Texas Status: Offline Points: 450 |
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 Posted: 11 Mar. 2017 at 4:21pm |
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I know this is a CJ2a site but I follow it as many things apply to my early CJ5. Thoughts on these working for the CJ5's? Uses the same Dana 25. I'm really wanting disc brakes, but want to stick with the factory 16 by 4.5 rims.
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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Posted: 11 Mar. 2017 at 4:35pm |
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As a matter of fact, I am! And yes, it IS an X-11.
 BW |
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Posted: 12 Mar. 2017 at 12:29am |
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Not to change the subject (he said, changing the subject) but what's under the hood of that X-11?
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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nofender
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Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 10 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 2035 |
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Posted: 12 Mar. 2017 at 12:46am |
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It'll work perfectly fine in a CJ5
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46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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Posted: 12 Mar. 2017 at 2:48am |
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A "Special High Performance" 2.8L V6. It's got some special frame bracing, special springs, shocks, struts, exhaust, etc. It's like the Citation version of a Z-28. The guys that're really into them don't like to admit that it really is a Citation.
 BW |
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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mickeykelley
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Joined: 26 May 2016 Location: Republic of Texas Status: Offline Points: 450 |
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2017 at 5:34pm |
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Let us know how it goes as I for one am on the fence. Are you going to use stock rims? |
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mickeykelley
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Joined: 26 May 2016 Location: Republic of Texas Status: Offline Points: 450 |
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2017 at 5:37pm |
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So if I understand this, I would need to make a backing plate? This pattern you have could be used by a laser cutter to make this plate? |
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Rick G
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Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 5:18am |
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Here's what mine looks like. I put the big GM calipers and brackets, dust shields, etc. on all four corners. It uses late model CJ rotors. Got the kit from The Jeep Guy about 4 yrs ago; pricey but included everything needed and I didn't have to piece mill it together. I did have to buy the studs and press the rotors onto the hubs.
While I was at it, I also replaced all the brake lines. I used 3/16" steel tubing. Also installed a wilwood dual reservoir master cylinder mounted in the original frame location. This setup works extremely well. I HIGHLY recommend disc brakes. P.S. I'm running 15x8 rims with no clearance issues. Planning to change to 16x7 rims in the near future.    Edited by Rick G - 22 Mar. 2017 at 5:21am |
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Stev
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Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 3:11pm |
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Rick,
What is the number for the Wilwood dual master cylinder you used? Did you use a proportioning valve with you set up? Stev
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Rick G
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Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 5:49pm |
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Stev,
I used a wilwood part number 260-7563. http://wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch.aspx?q=260-7563 I did not use a proportioning valve. My understanding is, that is used when you have disc on one axle and drums on the other. Because I have four wheel discs, I didn't need it. I did, however, install some residual pressure valves (2 psi, I think) because the MC is located low on the frame (at or below the caliper level). This turned out unnecessary anyway because I mounted my remote reservoirs on the firewall (for ease of filling), or maybe the system just didn't need them. I removed the residual valves and have no problems at all. I would first try it without any proportioning or residual valves and see if it works for you. Got nothing to lose that way and you can always splice them in if you need to. Rick |
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67charger
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Joined: 27 Sep. 2011 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 1272 |
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Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 6:03pm |
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That looks like a good install, I am still collecting all the parts I need for the tracker conversion.
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Stev
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Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 6:05pm |
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Rick,
Our 1946 has disc only on the front - and I used a proportion valve. I had the rears lock up first when I tested it so I added the valve. They work great. Thanks for the link I will check it out. There is a project build on a 1949 in my future - just might put disc brakes on all four this time.
Thanks, Stev |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Stev
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Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 6:08pm |
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Rick, where you able to mount that master cylinder directly into the OEM factory hole in the frame?
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Bad Karma
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Joined: 02 Jan. 2016 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 6:13pm |
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any pics of this installed? Thanks
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Wounds heal... Chicks dig scars...
1946 CJ-2a 1984 CJ-8 Scrambler 2005 TJ Unlimited |
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Nick_
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Posted: 22 Mar. 2017 at 6:26pm |
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Very cool, the 4-wheel discs is a great safety upgrade. I haven't decided if I'm going to run the dust shields or not. My theory is, for my off-road Jeep, the mud might get packed inside. How close is the clearance against the rotor? For those asking about proportioning valves: My understanding is a proportioning valve is needed with a dual reservoir master cylinder and disc/drums. I'm currently running the same brake setup on my 3A, but kept the standard master cylinder. It works fine. Since I'm upgrading to dual I will use the valve. Disc/disc does not need it.
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Rick G
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Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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Posted: 23 Mar. 2017 at 5:18am |
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I did not use the OEM factory holes in the frame. I had to build a bracket for the MC and I welded it to the frame. You could probably fabricate a bracket that would utilize the original MC bolt locations. I don't remember now why I didn't do that. Perhaps for installation expediency, perhaps for a stronger more rigid mount; I just dont remember. Bad Karma, I'll try to get some installation pics tomorrow. Nick, I wouldn't use the dust shields. The ones I have only cover the back side of the hub, no coverage of the actual rotor. I honestly don't know the purpose of the little dust shields/cups that came in the kit. The hub has a seal and I guess that cup is supposed to keep the big stuff off the seal. I just put it on to feel like I was getting my money's worth I guess.
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61Healey
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Joined: 13 Feb. 2017 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: 23 Mar. 2017 at 5:10pm |
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I did a similar conversion on my '66 Bronco. I used all Ford parts for it. BUT the end result is that big underbarked Bronco stopped. I plan to do this on my '46 CJ2A once I get around to it. Better safe than sorry.
I do not believe the Chevy Caliper bracket and the Ford bracket are the same. Ford uses a dovetail slide type caliper that is held into the bracket with a special wedge clip while Chevy 'floats' on pins. I like the secondary conversion of the GEO Tracker to the CJ2A also. They made millions of those too over the years and a non-vented disc will do just fine in these applications. I also have a '94 Suzuki Samurai in which I have upgraded to GEO Tracker Brakes in much the same way. The bigger upgrade on the Samurai was the master cylinder. It has servo power brakes so it easily handled the slightly larger brake system. The Samurai was a total rip off of the early CJ- Basically the same in most regards as track and length. Sam |
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Be on time, speak your mind, & don't waste time on the requirements- just do them
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LesBerg
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Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 02 Apr. 2017 at 2:55am |
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I picked up a set of plates/adapters from Stev and I'm converting my front brakes right now. Since the front gear set has 90 degrees of slop in the pinion I'm installing cherry used innards at the same time.
The plates are very nicely made:  Yeah, you read that right - a full quarter turn of slop in my front diff- the pinion teeth are worn halfway through. I picked up the rotors and calipers used from a local parts yard (Spalding in Spokane) and the parts were $13 each. I'll be picking up the bolts on the parts list tomorrow and figuring out the metric/SAE brake line conversion. All told, the front axle disk brake swap will come in under $130. That's $10 cheaper than a set of new shoes and two new drums that don't have the slots to properly adjust the shoes with a feeler gauge. If all else fails on the SAE/metric brake line conversion, I'll just make a short steel line with an SAE fitting on one end and a metric on the other for each side. This would allow going back to original with minimal work. It would replace the 'S' line at the knuckle. Of course, I could just lop off the last inch of the brake lines on the axle on each side, slide on a metric fitting and double flare it. cake.
Edited by LesBerg - 02 Apr. 2017 at 3:33am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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berettajeep wrote: