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Dauntless Drivetrain Change |
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JeepFever 
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Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2012 Location: VA Status: Offline Points: 2747 |
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 Posted: 28 Feb. 2018 at 4:37am |
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I am not really doing a step-by-step build thread, but showing some pics of how I am doing it. (right or wrong)
I could not get the rear main rope seals to compress enough to function properly, so did some searching for alternative. Came across these neoprene seals from TA Performance. For me, these were SO much easier to install . . hopefully no leaks.  |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 28 Feb. 2018 at 4:45am |
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Earlier I had mentioned that there were no valve seals on the engine that I disassembled.
Here are the seals that came with Comp Cams kit. These appear to grip the valve stem, and apparently move up-and-down with the valve. These "umbrella" seals do not fasten to the head bosses, but rather "float" over them.  Edited by JeepFever - 28 Feb. 2018 at 4:49am |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 08 Mar. 2018 at 4:09am |
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Two steps forward, one step back.
 After installing the rocker arm assemblies, I noticed some "lash", instead of preload. It turns out that the Comp Cam kit that I used has a smaller base circle diameter, so the stock pushrods are too short. With dial indicator I am seeing about .002 to .006 lash, when there should be .020 "preload" on the lifters. I need to find some approx .025 longer pushrods.  Edited by JeepFever - 13 Mar. 2018 at 4:50am |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 08 Mar. 2018 at 4:17am |
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I keep switching my time between engine, tranny, and axle. I have always thought I have some attention deficit disorder Made some progress on front axle this week. Elocker installed !!!  |
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Willy M
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Joined: 18 July 2017 Location: Dyer, TN Status: Offline Points: 233 |
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Posted: 10 Mar. 2018 at 3:53pm |
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Just read this one front to back. I love your engine picker too. I've been looking at building something similar to go on the rear of my old Farmall Cub tractor. Got to keep it gainfully employed.
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JeepFever
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Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2012 Location: VA Status: Offline Points: 2747 |
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Posted: 13 Mar. 2018 at 4:53am |
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Hopefully I have fix for short pushrods. I decided to make a separate thread on that, for anyone in future who is searching on the topic.
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BryanB
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Joined: 15 Aug. 2017 Location: Gowen Mi. Status: Offline Points: 374 |
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Posted: 14 Mar. 2018 at 7:08pm |
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Ron,
Curious what torque specs you used in your 225 heads? I'm finding a lot of different information. I put mine at 65 ft-lbs, but saw some specs as high as 80. What's your thoughts? Thanks Bryan
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JeepFever
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Posted: 15 Mar. 2018 at 12:09am |
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I was mainly going by Chilton manual for torque specs. The spec for head bolts had me puzzled at such a large range. 65-85. . . so did a little searching. The specs at all the sites I found were within that range. One site had specs different for each year. They tended be lower for pre-225 and the '64 225, in the 60-70 range, if I remember.
I found another site that had one number -> 75 ftlb. . . I was thinking of going in the middle of 65-85 anyway, so set the torque wrench to 75, . . but once the wrench clicked , I did turn just a tad more.  (note, I did sneak up on the 75, not all at once of course)I actually have a question myself, I figured I would try to find out before I fire it up. I used FelPro head gasket, do these need to be re-torqued after running?
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BryanB
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Joined: 15 Aug. 2017 Location: Gowen Mi. Status: Offline Points: 374 |
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Posted: 15 Mar. 2018 at 12:21am |
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Thanks, yeah i started at 65 and moved to 75, with such a wide range it seems like it probably isn't particularly critical
 The writeup I found (buicks.net I think) they specified 65-80 ft lbs with re torque after a run in time. No mention of how long of a run time or what head gasket...the last 225 I did heads on I ran it for a month or so and re torqued...been a few years with no issues to speak of. Those were felpro gaskets on that one. Either way I'm sure it's fine...not like we are building watches!
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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Posted: 15 Mar. 2018 at 12:35am |
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I re-torque them anytime after engine has reached operating temperature.
Head bolts will loose up after initial warm up. I believe its mainly the increase of CR that collapses the head gasket Within a few minutes of run time.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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BryanB
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Joined: 15 Aug. 2017 Location: Gowen Mi. Status: Offline Points: 374 |
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Posted: 15 Mar. 2018 at 2:12pm |
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Well dang, Ididn't know it happened so quickly. I just figured it was through severl heat-up, cool-down cycles. I know what ill be doing next time!
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oldtime
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Posted: 15 Mar. 2018 at 3:25pm |
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On a fresh rebuild I carefully static time the distributor and set carburetor adjustments to standard specifications..
I typically start up these newly rebuilt engines even before the radiator is ever installed. I will only run them without coolant until the head itself gets good and hot. Once the fresh painted exhaust manifold starts to smoke its very near time to shut it down. The initial run typically allows me just enough time to check the dwell and fine tune the carburetor as needed. Of course you must be prepared to work quickly. I run them mostly at idle RPM to re-check the timing and dwell but also must rev them to high RPM and see that the carburetor is working as it should. This gets both the temperature and the CR up high so the head gasket can settle down. The head bolts will typically loose approximately 10 foot pounds of torque in the first start up. On F heads the intake valve / rocker arm will be effected by the retorque of head bolts. That way on a typical ground up jeep build I'm done fiddling with engine long before body is installed on frame. Oh yeah this threads about Dauntless engines. Well my 2 Dauntless engines have yet to be set in a jeep frame so I have not started either of them yet. But will basically attempt a similar procedure. I will no doubt hook up the radiator first on the Dauntless to provide me some extra learn time. Hooking up the radiator first will allow one to adjust engine at a slow pace if one is not totally familiar with a particular engine. Edited by oldtime - 15 Mar. 2018 at 3:27pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 15 Mar. 2018 at 4:29pm |
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Thanks Oldtime!
To take the thread a little off topic. . Torque wrenches . . The subject of head-bolt torque got me wondering again about the accuracy of my 25-30yr old torque wrenches, so I brought them into work today, and got our Quality guy to check them. 0-250 inlb dial type: - was reading about 8% high throughout the range ie. dial = 100 actual torque = 92 - he made some adjustments internally to get dial very close to actual  30-250 ft "clicker" type: - reads high at low end of range click = 30 actual = 24/25 - very accurate at 70 thru 100 - starts reading low above that . . ex. clicker = 150 actual = 153 we did not go any higher than 150, the vise he was holding the testing device - > was a little wimpy I have always thought I need to fill the gap in my torque wrenches, and now, (especially knowing the big wrench is fairly inaccurate in the 30-40 range) . . . its time for another torque wrench.  I ordered a 10-100 ftlb to fill the gap. Edited by JeepFever - 16 Mar. 2018 at 4:00am |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2018 at 4:16am |
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Dana 300 is on operating table, Hopefully I find the internals to be in good shape . . . becase I only ordered a gasket/seal kit.
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JeepFever
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Posted: 19 Mar. 2018 at 4:04am |
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Switching back to engine. I have everything assembled except the items currently running on Wilson -> (carb, intake, HEI distributor, etc) . . with one exception: I decided to beef up the oilpan, before installing. The oilpan on Wilson is so dented, that I am surprised the oil pickup is not blocked.
This "skid plate" might not be the ultimate, is not pretty, but should be WAY more resistant to rock hits. Mid-way thru the fab:  Finished welding, and grinding.  I originally thought about a flat plate, could not think of a good way to weld to oilpan. It is not obvious in these photos, but this skid-plate is weld all around the circumference. (no plug welds to pull out, and lose oil). |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Posted: 20 Mar. 2018 at 2:21am |
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And the drain plug is well protected, too! Nice!
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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JeepFever
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Posted: 20 Mar. 2018 at 3:58am |
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Yes!
I have always felt it was exposed, just waiting for a sharp rock to knock it loose. 
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JeepFever
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Posted: 23 Mar. 2018 at 4:55pm |
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I opened the covers on D300 and think everything looks and feels tight internally, so I am not going to disassemble the transfer case. I will replace the seals and gaskets.
I bolted on the new twin-stick levers to make sure everything shifts ok. I did not get instructions, and did not come across any in quick search, so tried to figure the puzzle out. This is what I came up with:   This kit came from Novak, their "adjustable" one. It turned out to be Omix-Ada :-( . . I am not too impressed with the build quality, but hopefully the design works ok. Since I am not taking the case apart, I will not be removing pill or grinding the rear shift shaft, so will not be able to use FWD HIGH. Not sure how useful that would be anyway. My son did have to use it once when he broke the rear u-joint on CJ7. He was able to tie up the rear driveshaft, and get back home. Shifting will be different than D18.
Left lever is for rear diff, lo-N-hi . . Right lever is front diff, lo-N-hi (can only go hi if rear is also) Edited by JeepFever - 23 Mar. 2018 at 4:58pm |
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