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Drag link rebuild

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Recon 219 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Recon 219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Drag link rebuild
    Posted: 06 Jan. 2016 at 1:05am
I have a new rebuild kit for the drag link on a 1947 CJ2.  How do I compress the springs enough to slip the joints back together?  The springs seem to be very strong and I cannot compress them enough to get the ball in the socket.  Any help will be appreciated!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2016 at 1:42am
Hi Recon,
Are you sure you have the parts assembled in the correct order? I've fixed up a couple of these and haven't had this particular issue. I did have problems with the threads on the new caps. They wouldn't seat all the way in. I had to reuse the old caps.

Tim
1- 1946 CJ2A   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2016 at 2:33am
Assemble them in place on the vehicle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2016 at 3:37am
As mentioned, make sure they are assembled in the correct order.

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Recon 219 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Recon 219 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2016 at 1:25pm
I payed close attention when disassembling and have reassembled in same order. Only thought is it was wrong before I started. Will try to post some pictures.  Thank all of you that have responded. Please keep it coming.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WorkInProgress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 1:26am
yep when i bought my new kit to refurb my drag link. i think i ended up using most of the original parts because the kit wasnt made with the same as the original parts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 11:04am
I see others have also had a problem with the rebuild kit on these drag links. Mine comes from Walcks, and when I have test fitted the end caps they also don't go all the way in. They go about 1/3 of the way in (enough to verify that the threads match - this is about 2 or 3 full rotations) but then they bind up. It's almost like the plug is very slightly tapered, and only fits at the narrow end but binds up on the thick end. Both plugs are the same. Threads on both the drag link and the plug look good and clean.

I don't have the option of going back to the original plugs because these were missing on mine. I need to get the replacements to work. 

Any ideas?

Mike
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 12:57pm
Figure out what the thread size and diameter is and run the plugs through a die the correct size? Or ask if anyone has a set of used plugs lying around. John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tumbleweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 1:31pm
One suggestion, as I had this same issue, chase the threads and make sure you can run the end plug all the way in until you run out of thread.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 1:52pm
Originally posted by Oilleaker1 Oilleaker1 wrote:

Figure out what the thread size and diameter is and run the plugs through a die the correct size? Or ask if anyone has a set of used plugs lying around. John

Thanks John, I have had the threads independently measured by 2 places in town and they both told me it is 24x1.25. This is a metric size. I watched them check the diameter of the plug with a vernier and match the thread with a thread gauge thingy (looks like a miniature comb). 

The metric size surprises me because everything else on the Jeep is Imperial. They were measuring the end caps sent to me by Walcks.

The other problem is that if this is a correct measure, this is not a standard thread, so not a standard die. I would have to order one specially....and so the problem escalates!

Before I get too far down the road, can anyone verify the thread diameter and pitch? Is it indeed M24 x 1.25 mm? ie 24mm nominal diameter and 1.25mm per thread. Something is not adding up right here....

If I can get this properly verified by the jeep experts, at least I know what die to look for. Forcing the plugs through the wrong die would probably ruin the die and the plugs!

Mike
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 2:18pm
It absolutely does not make sense that this part is a metric size. 

I have played around with some conversions and M24x1.25 would be VERY close to 15/16-20. Can anyone confirm that size for this part?

We are a metric country here so of course people around here are bound to measure an item and then report back in the closest metric size familiar to them. Of course this still doesn't solve my problem but it would at least be good to know what I am aiming for - which at the moment I don't! Ouch 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 4:58pm
Angry  I just finished a re-build overhaul of a drag link with (without) the kit from Walck's. First thing was the threads - very rough towards the outer end. Not having a die that large, I worked the threads over with a thread file, 20 per inch. Then I found that the new springs are not as stout as the old ones, and the spacer that extends into the spring is longer than the old one. Tried to put it together, and there is NO WAY the plug will screw in far enough to even think about getting a cotter key in there. I found that the old plugs were not only shorter than the new ones, but the cotter key slots were cut much deeper in the old ones.  I also noticed that the ball seats are very rough, like the last finish step of the machining process was skipped. I would think that they would wear at the ball very quickly. 
  In the end, the only parts I was able to use were the cotter pins and the rubber sheilds with their metal retainer. The rest is junk, and who knows about the rubber sheilds, considering the "rubber" JUNK we've been getting from the far east. Angry   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote montymech Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 6:19pm
Someone commissions its manufacture, someone imports it, someone wholesales it and distributes it, someone retails it etc. Nowhere along the line does anybody think to open the packet and check that it  'does what it says on the box'. The poor sodding end user is the quality controller. Yes we will 'change it for you', yes 'we will refund your money', yes 'you'll have to suffer all the inconvenience and pay return shipping.'  In the UK I have found just one marque specialist that refuses to stock reproduction components until the producers get the specification right. (Triumph TR parts). Most of the others continue to peddle rubbish that is unfit for purpose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 6:23pm
I don't know if the project is completed yet, but Ron Fitzpatrick had a correct kit on his 'to-do' list and has the information necessary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulEdm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 6:33pm
I bought the full kit from Walcks, as my Jeep came without that part at all. The steering had been reconfigured--the only part of it that was in the spare parts bin was the Ross box and column--but the column (tube and worm) had been cut shorter, so those have now been replaced as well.

I neglected to inspect the parts before opening it up to remove the wood blocks and install it...  Which meant I spent some time figuring out which parts went where, and in which order.  I think I've got it now, though.

At this point, it is installed on the Jeep, but not tightened down.  I can get the plugs to go in just fine (I think), but I haven't been able to tighten them against the springs enough to get the cotter pin in place.  I had assumed it was because it was taking too much force to compress the spring, but now you're making me want to check the threads.  And the length of the plugs!

I was going to make a tool to use to screw that in, since the slot is much bigger than the biggest screwdriver I could find.  I think I'll take apart one end and check the threads--and if they seem reasonably okay, I'll grease the heck out of them before reinstalling! And see if I need to cut deeper cotter pin slots in them.  (I'll try to check the thread pitch for you, too, but it won't be before the weekend.)

-Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 6:35pm
Okay, I'm doing a drag link rebuild currently and have the replacement end kit purchased from Walck's.
 
First, I am NOT impressed by the fit and finish of the parts in the kit. The surfaces that are designed to ride on the balls of the pitman arm and the drag link are very rough.
 
Second, the threads are somewhat undersize from the original and the threaded ends don't look anything like the originals, nor do the springs. Where the threads intersect with the cross slots are not cleaned up at all and have considerable burs that would interfere with the installation. Measuring the kit threaded ends, the threads appear to be very near 20 tpi but not quite. They are not quite 1.25 threads per mm. either. Sloppy work... and sloppy fit
 
Third, the original threads are indeed 15/16" threads and 20 tpi.  They are not metric.
 
Fourth, since there is no NOS drag link available for early 2A's (bellcrank ball facing down) we have little choice in what is done for repairs. Had a replacement assembly been available I would have preferred that over repair kits. If you have ever lost steering at any speed over 30 MPH you would know how I feel.Shocked
 
While looking over the bellcrank the other day, I discovered that one of the PO had repaired the ballend of the bellcrank by brazing it. I can't put that kind of repair on the road again...so, shopping around, I find that the replacement costs ONLY $300!!! I'm not sure what it would take to change over to the later 2A bellcrank setup (bellcrank ball facing up), but it is very tempting to try this as the later bellcrank costs only  $80.  I think there is a difference is in the bellcrank pin diameter, and if so, replacement would probably have to include replacement of the frame weldment to the later design.
 
Still mulling things over...has anyone else got suggestions or advice on this?
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 8:10pm
Joe DeYoung has come up with a process to refurbish old bell cranks. I got one from him and I am very happy with it.




Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2016 at 8:49pm
Angry Don't get me started on the bellcrank, I don't have time for that right now. I'll tell you about that one later! BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

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