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Dual Master Cylinder Conversion

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Daniel_Buck View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daniel_Buck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2013 at 10:30pm
ahh, that makes sense I guess :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garage gnome Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2013 at 10:33pm
It increases braking power. Larger pistons on smaller pistons means less force needed on the pedal to stop in the same time as it would with the stock MC. I noticed a huge difference in it when I did mine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daniel_Buck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2013 at 10:52pm
Nice!   I wasn't expecting that, shoot maybe I'll just try the MC kit and see if I still think I need disc brakes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jalbrecht55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2013 at 9:15pm
Are you guys sure about that?  At least for me, my original MC was 1" bore; Herm's dual kit (drum brake) was 1" bore.  I couldn't really feel any difference between a rebuilt original and the dual setup (comparing 4-wheel 11" drum in both cases).

If you want "easier" more powerful brakes, you'd want a smaller bore MC or larger bore wheel cylinders.

If you want "harder" brakes with less pedal travel, you'd want a larger bore MC or smaller bore wheel cylinders.

If you want good firm brakes that don't take much effort... might I recommend something like my wife's honda accord.  LOL


Edited by jalbrecht55 - 13 May 2013 at 9:18pm
'47 Willys CJ-2A -- - www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=690670
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longakerfrank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2013 at 8:06pm
Ralf;
 
Did you have to lengthen the pin (that attaches to the brake pedal) that pushes the master cylinder plunger rod when you installed Herm's bracket?
 
My plunger rod is at an angle from the brake pedal to the MC and it appears that I need about 1/4 inch longer pin (shaft) to make the plunger go into the MC straight.
 
Also, it appears in you pictures you  did not use the original plunger rod. Did you get something from someplace like NAPA?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pa cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar. 2018 at 3:13pm
Blast from the past! Ralf, how is that Fairmont master cylinder holding up for you? I’m in need of a new MC with front disk brakes. 

Did anyone ever do the R&P remote resivoir setup? It doesn’t look like it’s avaialbale on their site anymore but there new site seems to be a mess and still under construction...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tow hook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep. 2019 at 4:13pm
Originally posted by garage gnome garage gnome wrote:

Hey Ralf, I just finished putting my dual MC in too. How far does your pedal move? Mine gets hard at about 1" from the floor board. There is no air in the system either.


i'm in the process to bleeding my kit as well. how is the pedal travel now  still 1" ?. mine bottoms out / stops  at 1" of travel. there seems to be a lot of twecking of this kit from what i'm reading.

thanks brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KC-10ENG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct. 2019 at 8:49pm
I have the R&P set up installed on my 48. It uses a Wilwood MC. I changed out the remotes for one off of an off-road car so it is all metal and is labeled front and rear. Matches under hood much better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm_factory Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2022 at 9:42am
Old thread but in case anyone is trying to do this as a drum/drum conversion autozone has a much better master cyl than the cardone one. part #1292, the ports are both 1/2" NPT but the flanges are machined so a banjo bolt will actually seal if you go that route.

There is a weird brake rod retaining thing but you can remove the c clip on the master cyl and take it out before bench bleeding. 
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