transfer case rear output seal (new seal images) |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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Posted: 11 May 2011 at 12:08am |
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so when I did my first test drive it took about 20 feet before the chintzy off-shore seal on the rear transfer case output gave out. I had pulled the drum and yoke and saw how the rubber was torn out. the next day I went to napa and got a better replacement. It was thinner bodied than the cheap one so seating it against the stop was not an option. measured the depth for correct sealing on the yoke and seated it that far. I inspected and re-cleaned the yoke and it has no pitting or grooves. I reassembled everything, rtv the splines, etc. and filled the case back up. no leaks for months. this weekend I drove it around at least 30 miles and at every stop checking for leaks from the the drum backing plate. nothing. today I go out to the garage and there is a huge puddle of fluid and it's running out against the inside of the backing plate. I cannot figure out what the cabbage is going on. has anyone uses the thinner bodied seal without a spacer? maybe double up on the seal? maybe I have installed it too deep. I haven't pulled it apart yet but man is this frustrating. I welcome any input you guys may have.
Edited by ovrlnd - 11 May 2011 at 8:42pm |
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ralf
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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Ralf. I had reviewed that before replacing it the first time. I don't have a spacer so am unsure what to do there. I just went out and pulled it all apart. it is definitely leaking past the seal. splines were dry. I have attached some pics. Yoke seems good. maybe I should sleeve it and replace the seal anyhow. either way look at the pics and let me know what you think.
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ralf
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The yoke looks a little worn, I would replace it. I put a new seal in mine but really don't know about a spacer. I just pried mine out and tapped a new one in. I filled it with oil and no leaks but it is still sitting on a bare frame in the shop. When I run it, it may leak like a sieve. I will go back and read Howard's thread and see if it jogs my memory. I did put silicone on the splines.
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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westforkboyd
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Not sure what those pictures show. Is that a seal with the front removed? Anyway that seal is not near seating. It should be in another ½". The seat on the rear cap is a litttle over an inch deep leaving room for the seal and the felt protector to ride inside the bore. The edge of your seal is flush, not near deep enough.
Also apply sealant only to the yoke not the shaft. If its on the shaft it is forced back into the seal/case. On the yoke it just pushes back out on you.
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'48 CJ-2A #184135 Lefty
'49 CJ-2A #219719 Mule '39 Ford 9N '55 Oliver Super 55 Ollybelle |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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maybe it is the yoke. I know it did seal. The new seal I installed is not torn or ripped and still looks good. I could replace the yoke and reassemble and see what happens. if it still leaks I'll take it back apart and put a new seal in as well.
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ralf
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Did you use the felts?
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/output-shaft-yoke-companion-flange_topic13719.html westfork boyd may be right on. |
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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ralf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 06 May 2008 Location: Fayetteville WV Status: Offline Points: 4861 |
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http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/parking-brake_topic3004.html
Scroll down to the second greasy picture of the park brake. You can see the seal. it looks to be in deeper than yours as westfork suggested. |
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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wfb. that is the seal I got from napa when we looked it up in the book it is flat on the outside surface and the inside has the spring retainer around the seal. you are right it isn't all the way to the seat as it was half as thick as the foreign one that failed and that was seated against the seat. I am using the felt as well. we can see on the line on the yoke where the seal is hitting. Maybe replace the seal, seat it all the way down and replace the yoke.
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ralf
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the one on the left is what you are seating the seal into. See how deep it is.
Here it is installed w/o the seal. I WOULD BUY NEW SEAL AND REINSTALL. iF YOU ARE DOING THIS ON YOUR BACK IN THE DRIVEWAY, I WOULD SPRING FOR A NEW FLANGE, $35 FROM wALCKS, THAT IS WHERE i GOT MY SEAL AND FELTS. ALSO, REMOVE THE DRAIN PLUG ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF T CASE TO MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OVER FILLED, BUT BY NOW, IF IT WAS, IT LEAKED OUT. BUT TOO MUCH OIL COULD BUILD PRESSURE AND FORCE OIL OUT. ALTHOUGH YOU FILL FROM THAT PLUG, I THINK OIL CAN MIGRATE FROM TRANNY. a Edited by ralf - 11 May 2011 at 2:13am |
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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ralf. I agree. It is looking like my decision to not seat the seal all the way is coming back to haunt me. I also agree that I should replace the flange to eliminate it from the equation.
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johnnybravo
Member Joined: 14 Feb. 2008 Location: Glen Lyn, VA Status: Offline Points: 2075 |
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Check the breather to make sure it is not clogged and causing back pressure and blowing the seal. ???
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Ret. USAR-Vet, 6-GPW's,, 1-M38 w/M-100, 1-47 WO "Jeep" 4X2 Wagon, several ruff CJ2&3A's, 1-CJ3B,
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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another good thought, but I know it's clear as was clogged when we took it apart to rebuild it. the rubber tore out of the first seal. this seal isn't torn and wasn't leaking during driving, of course it leaks when it's sitting in the garage.
Edited by ovrlnd - 11 May 2011 at 2:42am |
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sean
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What diameter is the yoke seal surface? |
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hillbilly21
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Take emerory cloth and use it on the yoke to clean it up a bit then put a thin smear of oil or grease on the yoke before installing it..little lubrication helps not force the seal to a small crack or break
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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Sean, I'll put the calipers on it tonight when I get home and post it up.
Good advice. I am worried now that it has been twice problematic if I emery it it will leak again. My main concern after thinking about it overnite is that with that thinner seal against the seat it will not seal since I don't have a spacer. on the other hand, both seals were sealing out farther and both failed. I am now too wondering if since I seated it out farther if it had too much pressure/friction on the face generating too much heat and causing the failure.
Edited by ovrlnd - 11 May 2011 at 2:19pm |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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I took a trip to napa at lunch with the 473229 Number and they produced this seal. Skf 15635
it is a double lip spring on both sides (meaning both sides of the seal look the same) and is 1/2" thick See attached photos. This seal looks massively robust compared to the other two I've used. Is this the seal I should be using? |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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Ok that is not the correct seal. It is way too big.
According to the online specs of that number skf15635 the o.d. and the i.d. should be correct. It appears that i got the wrong seal in that box. The seal that is currently in there is a skf15655 which has the same specs as the 635 seal. I pulled the front seal on a spare case i have and it is 1/2 " thick single lip but there is no part number on it. What a mess sean, the flange sealing surface is 1.55" Edited by ovrlnd - 11 May 2011 at 11:11pm |
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