Solenoid overheating ??? |
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crazydima
Member Joined: 16 July 2012 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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Posted: 31 Oct. 2012 at 6:28pm |
Fellow Jeep Enthusiasts, Help!!! Please!!! Yes I am a novice at this. Have owned my CJ-2A for 3 months or so. Getting a crash course in all things jeep. LOL! My old distributor was frozen in the block. So after many gallons of penetrating oil, a chain wrench and a blow torrch it broke free. Well it did not survive removal. So I bought an electronic distributor to replace it. I have it installed on the jeep and I thought I had it set up as per plug no. 1 position on distributor, etc, etc. I hit the key ignition and instead of the energetic rapid turning of the starter motor I had with the old distributor in place it now seems draggy and sluggish and hard to turn over. I now have the battery on a charger to be sure to get it charged up with enough juice for future attempts. Plus I hit the key ignition noticed that the solenoid appeared to be overheating at the post where the positive battery cable and the wire from the ignition switch were mounted. As I continued to hit the ignition to start a little smoke starting to appear from that post of the solenoid. All I have is a skeleton wiring set up just for the ignition system since I have the tub off and I am going over the whole jeep. No lights, nothing like that is hooked up. None of the original wiring is left on the jeep. All new. I am pretty sure the wiring is the way I had it when the old distributor was in place and the motor started and ran just fine. The change being of course is the elimination of the old distributor and its components and the introduction of the new electronic distributor. The new electronic distributor has the two wires which attach to each side of the coil. What did I miss or screw up? This is a 12 volt system on the original 4 cyl motor. It has a new 12 volt coil which does not require an external resistor. It has a new alternator. It has a new solenoid. It is temporarily attached to a fender since the tub is off of the frame. It has a key ignition switch. Any help or advice is apprecited! Thank you for your time and attention on this matter. This is the wiring I have in place right now on the jeep. (please forgive the poor quality of my diagram) Sincerely, Rob Easton, IL
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bretto
Member Joined: 05 June 2010 Location: Orem, Ut Status: Offline Points: 1930 |
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Is the starter a 6V or 12V?
Edited by bretto - 31 Oct. 2012 at 7:02pm |
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crazydima
Member Joined: 16 July 2012 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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12 volt
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Carlsjeep
Member Joined: 15 Jan. 2011 Location: Taylorsville Ky Status: Offline Points: 2642 |
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The wiring diagram looks ok. The distributor turns CCW so pull the plugs and bump the engine until you have compression on #1 cyl. Then turn the engine over by hand until the TDC mark is aligned in the window on the bell housing. Then move the dist until one of the plug wires in the cap is aligned with the rotor. You shouldn't have to move it very much. Now you want that wire to be #1 and since the firing order is 1-3-4-2 the next hole in the cap going CCW is #3 cyl and then 4 and then 2.
While you have the flywheel on the TDC mark move it to the 5 deg mark and then move the dist so the #1 contact in the cap is aligned with the rotor. The engine should start now. As to the solenoid getting hot, it may not be able to carry the starter current going through it or it may be bad.
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Life is only as good as you make it.
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crazydima
Member Joined: 16 July 2012 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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Excellent!
Thank you for the help! Sincerely, Rob Easton, IL |
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ralf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 06 May 2008 Location: Fayetteville WV Status: Offline Points: 4861 |
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Run a jumper cable directly from the + post on the battery to the post on the starter. Run the - jumper from the negative battery terminal to the hold down clamp on the starter. If it spins well then you know the starter is good. To test your ground, just run a cable from negative battery post to the starter hold down clamp. If the starter turns better when you crank, you don't have a good ground. An easy way to insure that you always have a good starter ground is to install a cable from where your battery ground bolts to the body (usually under the battery tray) directly to the stud or bolt on the block where the end of the starter bolts to the block.
Is it a 12 volt solenoid? They are cheap at Tractor Supply. The beauty of the original foot starter is that it was a direct connection to the battery with the current passing only through the foot switch by a heavy cable. Edited by ralf - 31 Oct. 2012 at 9:02pm |
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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crazydima
Member Joined: 16 July 2012 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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I am converted to 12 volt
Thank you!! I will give this a try. Sincerely, Rob Easton, IL |
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3396 |
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Make sure the terminals on the solenoid are clean and tight and its case is grounded all the way to the battery.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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crazydima
Member Joined: 16 July 2012 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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Folks I am happy to report that as a result of your input I have the motor running again.
I tightened up connections at terminals. I then went thru the timing protocol again and made sure to get the plugs in proper firing order, etc. I guess it was so far out of timing that the poor old girl was getting flustered. The solenoid is not overheating anymore. Life is good! Thank you!!! As always you folks are the greatest!!! Sincerely, Rob Easton, IL
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Carlsjeep
Member Joined: 15 Jan. 2011 Location: Taylorsville Ky Status: Offline Points: 2642 |
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I'm glad to hear the issue is solved.
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Life is only as good as you make it.
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