Hub/Wheel Bearings... |
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Joe Frazer
Member Joined: 15 Mar. 2008 Location: Somerset, PA Status: Offline Points: 788 |
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Posted: 20 Apr. 2014 at 3:12am |
I generally like to keep a spare set of wheel bearings with me for any of my trailers -
just in case!
My Bantam trailer is a a bit tight turning on the right side so I'm suspecting I may
have an issue that needs changed out. Might anyone on the list here have the bearing
numbers/seal numbers etc.? Would be nice to be able to order and have on hand to
do the job all at once vs. taking everything apart and having to then track them down.
Also, any such thing as an exploded parts diagram for the axle assembly on one of these?
Appreciate the good help and expertise as always!
Happy Easter!
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Collecting any/all Kaiser/Frazer/JEEP literature/handouts/toys etc.
46 CJ2A 50 Jeepster 51 Pick-up 54 Willys Aero Hardtop 54 Kaiser Willys Darrin 56 Wagon 56 Factory Proto-type FC 170 Truck |
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Hamhog
Member Joined: 05 Jan. 2008 Location: Havelock NC Status: Offline Points: 1679 |
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I just pulled mine apart, the bearings are Timken 18590. I don't have the race number.
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Dave
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Rus Curtis
Member Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
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Joe,
Your signature block doesn't specify which trailer you have (unless I just missed it!) but the bearings/seals are the same for the early trailers as those for the early jeep hubs - including the hub. I believe this was by design - so that those parts are interchangable. Perhaps the CJ2A parts list show the bearings/seal numbers. A quick search should help. The 2A SM should show the same order as needed for the trailer hub assembly.
I read long ago that the military manual for the T3 trailer is good enough for the T3-C as a reference for service and parts with the exception of obvious differences, i.e. lunette vs. Fulton coupler and tail lights, etc. The manual shows the correct assembly for bearings/seals. The parts numbers are also there as well.
I wanted a printed manual so I ordered from Portrayal Press. An electronic copy is avail on jeepdraw:
Scroll down and look for TM 10-1281 Edited by Rus Curtis - 20 Apr. 2014 at 3:41pm |
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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lowenuf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 29 Aug. 2006 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 9122 |
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Dave, i have two sets of cups and cones, i will gladly send them to you if you would care to replace them when you find some. Mike
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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Hamhog
Member Joined: 05 Jan. 2008 Location: Havelock NC Status: Offline Points: 1679 |
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Mike, it's Joe that needs them. I'm set on replacements. I'm actually getting ready to send my trailer off to get dipped/stripped. |
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Dave
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lowenuf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 29 Aug. 2006 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 9122 |
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I know dave, joe's real name is dave also |
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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Hamhog
Member Joined: 05 Jan. 2008 Location: Havelock NC Status: Offline Points: 1679 |
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I just assumed...
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Dave
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jwm1955
Member Joined: 20 Nov. 2016 Location: Boston, MA Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Just picked up bearings and seal to do my trailer. After lots of research I found 5 numbers of Seal that "would work". The match for my seal that was in the hub was a: Timken 40566S 2.125 x 2.875 x 0.250 Hope this helps someone down the road. |
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mickeykelley
Member Joined: 26 May 2016 Location: Republic of Texas Status: Offline Points: 450 |
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I drug my new to me T3-C 1,500 miles home last summer with no issues, noise, heat or any other noticeable issue. I'm in the process of rebuilding everything. When I pull the bearings out, how do I tell if I should rebuild vs just clean and repack them?
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jwm1955
Member Joined: 20 Nov. 2016 Location: Boston, MA Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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I usually make the determination by the Race. If it is pitted or has wear then the cone and race is replaced. The rollers can be inspected for pits and wear as well. Of course the seals will have to be new, so you can take a look at the inner cone and race. When you get everything cleaned up you can mate the cone and race and see if it turns smoothly.
Also inspect the axle for wear. |
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chris insull
Member Joined: 16 May 2016 Location: Chesapeake, VA. Status: Offline Points: 48 |
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I fully agree with the above inspection criteria by jwm1955! However, my opinion is that unless the previous maintenance history is known, I would replace the bearings and seals as a matter of course. It's takes the same amount of effort to remove and inspect the current units as it does to replace them. A small price to pay for more piece of mind... In my case, I had towed my first trailer home unloaded and never noticed any issues with heating, noise, etc. I had already made the decision to replace them and when I pulled the old units out I found wear that could have left me stranded when towing longer distances with a load in the tub. JMHO... Replace them.
Edited by chris insull - 26 Jan. 2017 at 8:06am |
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1971 CJ-5
1946 T3-C S/N 30319 194? T3-C ACM 154291 (SOLD) 1967 Stevens M-416 (SOLD) |
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mickeykelley
Member Joined: 26 May 2016 Location: Republic of Texas Status: Offline Points: 450 |
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Are new bearings of the same quality as the old ones? Lots of new stuff is frankly Chineese crap. Just look at the steering sector shaft issues on the jeeps, light switches, etc. Whenever possible, I try to rebuild as older stuff was meant to last. I'll pull them and look at before deciding.
Edited by mickeykelley - 26 Jan. 2017 at 3:30pm |
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jwm1955
Member Joined: 20 Nov. 2016 Location: Boston, MA Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Timken is a well respected name, wherever they are made. I found new Timken brgs at the bearing distributor, They were in old "Made in USA" boxes. I think if you go to the FLAPS they may cross to another MFG. Seek out a bearing house, always go to the pros.
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42 GPW
Member Joined: 13 Dec. 2011 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 105 |
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Bearing = Timken # 18590
Cup/Race = Timken # 18520 Wheel Bearing Seal= Spicer # SP-17004 Good Luck Hope this helps Mike |
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42 GPW 81835 USA 20186310
1946 Bantam T3-C 10599 (Sold) 1991 M101A2 MVPA Member NICMVPA Member |
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