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rear diff pinion seal

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moralesjf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moralesjf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: rear diff pinion seal
    Posted: 03 Oct. 2014 at 8:20pm
In order to replace the pinion seal on a cj2a, do i need to remove the pinion shaft to get to it from the back Confused
weekend warrior
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote the_ocho Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2014 at 8:33pm
you remove the pinion yoke, not the pinion itself. Its easy, just remove the nut, slide off the yoke, remove the seal. Then install the new one with a seal driver( or be careful taping around the edge) re install the pinion yoke lubing the seal so it doesn't tear. re install the nut and cotter pin if it has one. Be sure to torque the nut to proper spec

Edited by the_ocho - 03 Oct. 2014 at 8:36pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2014 at 9:20pm
I think you'll probably need to use a puller to get the yolk off.  When installing, you want a small amount of sealant applied to the splines so that fluid doesn't migrate out the splines.  Also think some sealant on the OD of the seal when driving in is required.

If the yolk is grooved where the old seal rode, you will need a new yolk or a Speedy Sleeve.  The new seal must have a good surface to ride on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gearwrencher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2014 at 9:36pm
To remove the seal itself I use a slide hammer. I drill a small hole in the end of the seal, Install a sheet metal screw in the slide hammer and screw it in .Than slide hammer it out. Works great for removing all seals.
Yes some times a puller is required to pull the Yolk off it self as 641 said.
Jerry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moralesjf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2014 at 1:03am
  Just want to thank everybody that made a great effort with sharing info to my question.  Thanks!Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AbeCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2014 at 7:17am
I just did mine and it was a pain!  Everything went fine except the seal was stuck pretty hard.  The nut came off pretty easily with a pipe wrench on the pinion yolk.  I used a standard gear puller to remove the yolk, and then the seal removal began.  I tried every standard seal removal tool I had with no luck, and finally ended up drilling some holes in the seal and threading some screws in to mate with one of the pullers I have.  It was ugly, but it worked!  Pictures attached.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2014 at 7:39pm
I like the seal puller idea, I will have to remember that one.Thumbs Up

    Jim
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AbeCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 4:56am
My only concern is possible metal particles in the diff oil, so I plan to drain and flush as best as I can before refilling.  Hope that is good enough.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 5:01am
two alternate pullers:
This one is available in most auto parts stores. This one works well when the seal isn't stuckPittsburgh Automotive 69025 Seal Puller
 
The second is a cold chisel when they're really stuck. Angle the chisel to get it under the lip and bend the lip up a bit. Then point the chisel towards the inside (aim so that the chisel would miss the yoke if it slips) and knock it fairly hard. Dent the side of the seal inwards between a quarter and half inch. This shrinks the diameter of the seal, and they'll usually pop right out. 


Edited by LesBerg - 21 Oct. 2014 at 5:07am
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AbeCJ2A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AbeCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 5:06am
Yea, I tried that one since it looked like it would work, but it was a very tight fit to get in, and then just bent out the inner lip of the seal frame everywhere I tried it with no movement of the seal.  that's why I resorted to drilling for the screws even though I was concerned about metal particles getting in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 5:08am
If it works, it's the right tool!Thumbs Up
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
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3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AbeCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 5:15am
Missed your edit before I posted my reply to the picture.  Not sure I understand your chisel method, but it sounds like it may be as risky as my drilling!  Got any pictures?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 5:54am
not at the moment, but might be able to scare something up. It doesn't create any shavings and as long as you don't nick the sealing surface you're good.
Basically you just knock the side of the seal in towards the center. It mangles the seal a bit and makes it a little smaller than the hole. Then it's easy to yank out with pliers.
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
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rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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AbeCJ2A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AbeCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 5:59am
So are you talking about inserting the chisel between the OD of the seal and the ID of the diff housing?  Because mine was flush and would have been difficult to do that without damaging the housing. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 3:47pm
A screwdriver inserted under the lip and used as a lever will pop it right out.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 3:59pm
If you are concerned about the metal shavings when drilling you can use a heavy grease on the drill bit to catch the metal shavings or use a magnet next to the bit. I still like your the puller system. I have also in the past  used a 1/4 sharp wood chisel to cut and collapse the seal housing but you have to be careful not to score the sealing surface.

    Jim

  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by AbeCJ2A AbeCJ2A wrote:

My only concern is possible metal particles in the diff oil, so I plan to drain and flush as best as I can before refilling.  Hope that is good enough.

If you use an awl or something similar with a hammer to make your screw holes, there will be no drill cuttings, and a "poked" hole is less likely to pull out as well.   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gearwrencher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2014 at 9:54pm
Abe,  your puller is trying to pull out the whole seal out at the same time, and too slowly. In using the Slide hammer you use only one screw hole .The quick pulling action is the trick. some times a screw does pull out, I just drill another hole. generally pulling that seal usually takes me about 15 minutes.  trust me.
Jerry
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