rear diff pinion seal |
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moralesjf
Member Joined: 20 Jan. 2014 Location: San Marcos Tx Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Posted: 03 Oct. 2014 at 8:20pm |
In order to replace the pinion seal on a cj2a, do i need to remove the pinion shaft to get to it from the back
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weekend warrior
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the_ocho
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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you remove the pinion yoke, not the pinion itself. Its easy, just remove the nut, slide off the yoke, remove the seal. Then install the new one with a seal driver( or be careful taping around the edge) re install the pinion yoke lubing the seal so it doesn't tear. re install the nut and cotter pin if it has one. Be sure to torque the nut to proper spec
Edited by the_ocho - 03 Oct. 2014 at 8:36pm |
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pjensen641
Member Joined: 21 June 2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 690 |
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I think you'll probably need to use a puller to get the yolk off. When installing, you want a small amount of sealant applied to the splines so that fluid doesn't migrate out the splines. Also think some sealant on the OD of the seal when driving in is required.
If the yolk is grooved where the old seal rode, you will need a new yolk or a Speedy Sleeve. The new seal must have a good surface to ride on.
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gearwrencher
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2013 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 255 |
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To remove the seal itself I use a slide hammer. I drill a small hole in the end of the seal, Install a sheet metal screw in the slide hammer and screw it in .Than slide hammer it out. Works great for removing all seals.
Yes some times a puller is required to pull the Yolk off it self as 641 said.
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Jerry
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moralesjf
Member Joined: 20 Jan. 2014 Location: San Marcos Tx Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Just want to thank everybody that made a great effort with sharing info to my question. Thanks!
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weekend warrior
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AbeCJ2A
Member Joined: 04 Dec. 2013 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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I just did mine and it was a pain! Everything went fine except the
seal was stuck pretty hard. The nut came off pretty easily with a pipe
wrench on the pinion yolk. I used a standard gear puller to remove the
yolk, and then the seal removal began. I tried every standard seal
removal tool I had with no luck, and finally ended up drilling some
holes in the seal and threading some screws in to mate with one of the
pullers I have. It was ugly, but it worked! Pictures attached.
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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I like the seal puller idea, I will have to remember that one.
Jim |
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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AbeCJ2A
Member Joined: 04 Dec. 2013 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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My only concern is possible metal particles in the diff oil, so I plan to drain and flush as best as I can before refilling. Hope that is good enough.
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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two alternate pullers:
This one is available in most auto parts stores. This one works well when the seal isn't stuck The second is a cold chisel when they're really stuck. Angle the chisel to get it under the lip and bend the lip up a bit. Then point the chisel towards the inside (aim so that the chisel would miss the yoke if it slips) and knock it fairly hard. Dent the side of the seal inwards between a quarter and half inch. This shrinks the diameter of the seal, and they'll usually pop right out.
Edited by LesBerg - 21 Oct. 2014 at 5:07am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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AbeCJ2A
Member Joined: 04 Dec. 2013 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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Yea, I tried that one since it looked like it would work, but it was a very tight fit to get in, and then just bent out the inner lip of the seal frame everywhere I tried it with no movement of the seal. that's why I resorted to drilling for the screws even though I was concerned about metal particles getting in.
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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If it works, it's the right tool!
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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AbeCJ2A
Member Joined: 04 Dec. 2013 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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Missed your edit before I posted my reply to the picture. Not sure I understand your chisel method, but it sounds like it may be as risky as my drilling! Got any pictures?
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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not at the moment, but might be able to scare something up. It doesn't create any shavings and as long as you don't nick the sealing surface you're good.Basically you just knock the side of the seal in towards the center. It mangles the seal a bit and makes it a little smaller than the hole. Then it's easy to yank out with pliers.
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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AbeCJ2A
Member Joined: 04 Dec. 2013 Location: Buffalo, NY Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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So are you talking about inserting the chisel between the OD of the seal and the ID of the diff housing? Because mine was flush and would have been difficult to do that without damaging the housing.
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rocketeer
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 26 June 2008 Location: Lehighton, PA Status: Offline Points: 3473 |
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A screwdriver inserted under the lip and used as a lever will pop it right out.
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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If you are concerned about the metal shavings when drilling you can use a heavy grease on the drill bit to catch the metal shavings or use a magnet next to the bit. I still like your the puller system. I have also in the past used a 1/4 sharp wood chisel to cut and collapse the seal housing but you have to be careful not to score the sealing surface.
Jim |
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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If you use an awl or something similar with a hammer to make your screw holes, there will be no drill cuttings, and a "poked" hole is less likely to pull out as well. BW |
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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gearwrencher
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2013 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 255 |
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Abe, your puller is trying to pull out the whole seal out at the same time, and too slowly. In using the Slide hammer you use only one screw hole .The quick pulling action is the trick. some times a screw does pull out, I just drill another hole. generally pulling that seal usually takes me about 15 minutes. trust me.
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Jerry
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