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A little project update on Chug A Lug |
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Mark W. 
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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 Posted: 31 Jan. 2019 at 3:53am |
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I broke down and ordered some tighter radius bends and after a couple hours tonight I'm within an inch to inch and a half of what I need and I know how to get it. So Friday when I can get back to it. I should have figured out.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2019 at 6:51am |
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OK redid my nightmare 4th tube and near as I can tell I am where I need to be all 4 tubes I think are within .75" of each other. Tomorrow I will first go over all my measurements again. And see if they are actually that good. Or if I screwed up measuring the fourth tube and its 27 different incantations. This last version came out approx 1.8" short and I found a way to add a 1" straight section and about a 20 degree curve. So I think I am really close. Welding this up is going to be a PITA Tubes #1 #3 #4 only have a few joints unless I can combine a few of the pieces I made up tube #2 out of there's going to be a bunch of joints as its all a bunch of curves. Tube #1 only has a single weld and then to the collector So that ones easy. I'll get some photos tomorrow once I know this is the final configuration. Now I just have to get it together so I can work out the Secondary tubes. I think they should just end up as straight tubes with a 45 degree jog on both ends to move the pipes more towards the left frame rail. I also need to design a nice stout (but rubbery) hanger I want to have a good solid hanger at the end of the Secondary tubes. Most likely come off the frame rail. With a short section of Thick rubber (I have some stuff I found laying in a junk pile at work most likely from one of the Rock crushers) A piece about 1.5" x 2 1/2" with a 5/16" bolt in either end should work. This Exhaust is taking way to much time. March and full time work is getting so CLOSE. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2019 at 6:29pm |
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WOW I recut a couple sections of the #3 tube to use less joints and then I went through everything twice and ran the math (trying to figure out the length of each tube) and after realizing that if I trim .75" off tubes #1 and #4 the four tubes come into a group with a spread of only .635" if I compare that to the 35.25" longest tube I end up with them all within 1.8% of each other. And I can live with 1.8% that's pretty tight. The #1 and #4 pair will come within .613" of each other and the #2 and #3 pair will come within .515" of each other. I must have taped up almost a dozen and half versions of the #3 trying to get something closer then 2" to the others. When last night I tried one more change and ended up within 1.635" and by cutting back the #1 and #4 tubes .750" and adding in .250" of straight I forgot to measure right before where the collector goes. I reduced the spread to .635" Now I have to figure out the order in which I weld everything up The collectors have to go on the ends of the tubes first due to the way I have to have access between the tubes for a seal. Then I need to weld up each tube in such a way I can fit them into the bottom of the 4 in line flange. And once that is all done then I can weld the 4 in line flange on the top and grind it down flat for the gasket surface. I'm going to do some more practice welding on scrap tubing to see if I can get any better. Cause I really don't want to grind any of these welds and I also don't want them looking like I welded them LOL. I need to get a couple of 1.75" OD tubing bends ordered so I can do the Secondary tubes. But I hesitate ordering until I have this bottom section done and in place as I might need to change the Center line radius of the bends I get to move the tubes into the proper position under the Transmission Cross Member. And then move the Tubes back towards the center of the Chassis where the last 2 into 1 collector will attach to the Tail pipe. Which I also need to order LOL. MONEY MONEY MONEY Oh crap almost forgot the photos here you go: There is still some trimming to do to have it ready for welding. Left side view  Front view This shows how I had to stack the curves out the side to make sure I had clearance from the oil pan (its over an inch)  Rear view the tubes on the left #1 and #4 will be cut back .750" the tubes on the right #2 and #3 will be cut at the felt marker line on the blue tape.  Right side view all curves on the #3 tube. This one I had to use some tighter radius tubes to keep it away from the oil pan and be able to fit the tube in the tight space it has right below the 4 in line flange.  Edited by Mark W. - 01 Feb. 2019 at 6:40pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2019 at 8:51pm |
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Already have tube #1 welded and cleaned up and Tube #4 I have the last section before the collector welded (has to be done before I can weld it to #1 to make the seal weld at the collector). I'll do the rest of the welds on #4 before the clumsy attempt at welding them together for the collector. I bought a guide plate from the co that makes the collectors to help align this joint. Hope it works. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 1:24am |
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Well I now have tubes #1 #2 and #4 welded up and ground down almost as nice as the top section. AND TUBE #3 IS DRIVING ME CRAZY. I had it all figured out this morning. Only once I had #1 and #4 welded up it was completely off where it was ending up during mock up. SO I changed it a little to get it back where it needed to be. Now that its welded up its worse then before. I have no Idea how I am going to get it to fit right. Pretty sure I will be cutting some welds apart and doing a lot of back tracking. And whats so frustrating is 1 2 and 4 are so NICE.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Unkamonkey
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Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2093 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 1:56am |
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You will get it figure but I have a question for you. Why do radial engines all have an odd number of cylinders?
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uncamonkey
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rocnroll
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Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13585 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 2:40am |
Only the four stroke ones do......two stroke radials have an even number.  |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Craig M
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Joined: 29 Nov. 2018 Location: Sully IA Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 3:58am |
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Billy Robinson from Grinnell IA built 6 cylinder 4stroke radial engines an set records with them
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Snojet slice & dice on the ice
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rocnroll
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Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13585 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 5:25am |
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Probably oughta give Mark his thread back....not real sure this pertains to his project.
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Unkamonkey
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Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2093 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 6:12am |
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Perhaps you should stay off as well.
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uncamonkey
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 6:29am |
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Everyone welcome help me figure out this dam tube and you can stay but I get the top bunk.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 6:32am |
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It could have something to do with 360 degrees. Try dividing 360 by eight. 4 works 6 works and 9 works as does 12 but 30 degrees separation might be tight unless a very large engine.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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rocnroll
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Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13585 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 2:57pm |
I WAS including myself as well in the thread hijack but thanks for your sentiment. |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2019 at 5:02pm |
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Fresh morning fresh idea. Going to try taking #3 out the other side using a very slight bend (about 20 degrees) and then a 90 and see if I can tuck it under #2 and end up parallel to #2 all depends on the length. At least its something different then beating on the same pile of cures that isn't working. And hopefully I can end up with fewer welds.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 04 Feb. 2019 at 3:10am |
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OK when asking for advise from one of the old sages on the H.A.M.B. discussion group (real Hot Rodders some going back to the 40's) I was told I would have to make compromises to build this header. SO I did tube #3 is a full 1 inch shorter then I wanted. But my back is killing me. I've tried to make that tube so many different ways I have lost track. BRB have to turn off the welding gas. I have more then enough clearance for everything that the Primary's come near (I will be adding to the MC heat Shield as well as making a heat shield for the Oil pump. I had to drop #3 tube down almost 1.5" lower then the others but as the Primary's are so far forward the little loss of clearance is not a concern. Its still higher then the bottom of the oil pan. The collectors are in a good position to transition to the Secondary's and sneak under the Transmission Cross member. I still have to finish welding up tube #3 but with 6+ tack welds on each joint I know its no going anywhere. SO I guess I now own the ONLY Tri Y Header designed for a Willys 134L at least of this design. And before anyone asks NO I WILL NOT MAKE ANOTHER this one has been plenty for my lifetime. I guess I should stop typing and show it off. The glamor shot:  Back side  Close up of the Nightmare:  And a downwards shot of the bottom section  I still have a lot of welding to do. I have to weld the Bottom section to the 4 in line Flange As well as Weld and Grind tube #3. Once all that is done I have to join the two pairs together and then weld the 2 into 1 Collectors on. Once that's done I can mount it up and get an idea of exactly where the Secondary pipes will route and order the Bends I need to do that. I'm going to have a min of 3.5 Weeks of work into this Exhaust system. This coming Winter while I am hopefully working on the Aluminum hardtop I'll send them off to be Jet Hot Coated. I'm thinking their Polished Silver finish. I'll have everything back to the Tail Pipe coated. Not going to bother with the Tail Pipe and its not going to be a HUGE PITA to make. Hope it gets me the 10+ ft lbs of torque and 4-5 HP I am hoping for. LOL
Edited by Mark W. - 04 Feb. 2019 at 3:13am |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Grumpy1
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Joined: 19 Sep. 2015 Location: Casper Wy Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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Posted: 04 Feb. 2019 at 12:57pm |
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I don't know if it will get you the power increase your trying for, but that's a darn nice looking exhaust header, and intake manifold. Great looking build want to see it all together and running.
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Posted: 04 Feb. 2019 at 8:06pm |
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Well interesting one of the guys on the H.A.M.B. discussion group suggested rather then Jet Hot I go with a local company. Turns out Finish Line Coatings in Milwaukie OR just 45 min away. I checked them out they have a very good rep and talking to them they sound like the outfit I will have my headers coated by. NO SHIPPING.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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LuzonRed47
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Joined: 11 Apr. 2007 Location: Plymouth, MI Status: Offline Points: 842 |
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Posted: 04 Feb. 2019 at 8:59pm |
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This header is one of the most remarkable projects I've yet seen an owner execute on the 2Apage.com. Fascinating to see this all come together, Mark. I'm assuming you're TIG welding the tubes...?
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CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
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Unkamonkey wrote: