A little project update on Chug A Lug

LOL I would if I had a TIG welder or knew how to TIG weld. no this is done with my Lincoln Weld Pak 140 on 110v with .024" wire MIG with 25/75 gas. I goober weld the joints and then with my 2 x72" belt grinder remove it down to the level of the tube. Then with a arbor mounted flap sander I smooth it down further finished up with see sawing 220 grit paper back and forth to remove any flat spots etc. If I get a flaw more noticeable then I can live with or if I think is a weak spot I hit it again with the welder.

I was asked on another forum if I had a dxf. file for the header. LOL I had to ask what a dxf. file is. He thought I must have used some sort of CNC design or something. NOPE this was designed manually I used 1.5" OD sink J trap pipe and elbows made from glued up plywood and ground to shape with my belt grinder until I had the majority of it figured out then I switched to using cut Exhaust bends until I got what worked.

OK 10:30 4 in line flange welded to tubes. Waiting for it to cool lots of weld nice and HOT. Now to put it on the Belt Grinder and make the Flange and all that weld Flat. I screwed around with the Top half using a file and sanding block. Screw that took for ever and just hurt my back more. SO the bottom is going straight to a new 80 grit belt on the 2 X 72" and when that looks pretty good I have a couple really stiff 180 grit belts that should get it to the point a little sanding block work and it should be good.

I'll touch up any welds or fill needed before the 180 grit.

I want this section done.

I need to get the 1.75" bends ordered and I can't do that until I get everything under the jeep and lined up so I know what I need. I already have a bunch of extra 1.5" I don't need a bunch of extra 1.75".

I will certainly check that out. Rocnroll

The Bottom Half of the Header Primary's is all welded up The Flange is ground flat the 10) bolt holes have been chased and counter sunk. And its bolted in place.

I have a little more then 1.125" of clearance on the #2 tube in the middle of a 130 degree curve to the Oil Pan. And it appears I will be a little tight on my steering shaft depending on where I put the next U-Joint in the mix and if I can angle the column a little bit to the left on the bottom end. I may also end up with a 3rd U-Joint and second Hiem bearing. Won't know for sure until I have the tub on and start playing with the column and shaft. It very obvious from this point I could have never done my original design where the 4 tubes passed the Oil pump in a square. The in line orientation was the only way this was ever going to work.

The #3 tube does hang down lower then I would like (its below the level of the oil pan) but it is what it is. As I am not intending any Rock Hopping I should be OK. Clearance around the MC is pretty good except for right on the very forward end of the MC and the part of the Header where the 4 in line flange is and thats pretty close again about 1.125" plenty of room for a fancy heat shield.

I'm not going to Weld the Primary's into the header Flange until I have more of the stuff around it completed in case I need to move it a little (there's enough play to move the header about 5/8" right or left). I'm going to end up with a little longer Tail Pipe then I thought I want to have about 24" Secondary's and with having to make a 45 degree turn coming away from the Primary Collectors to get the Secondary's to the left of the Transmission Cross Member and then back towards the Center of the Chassis so the tail pipe can be clear of frame and stuff on its way over the Rear Axle.

Time to order some 1.75" bends. And rest up my Back this has been an experience.

Oh I think the Daily driver is going to be fine. This time of year the pickup sits a lot and I wonder if it gets water in the tank. If it is the Fuel pump then its about a 3 hour job to replace it and since I have done it before should be pretty easy,

I'll get some photos today showing the Header and intake in place. I as with many things I design and make one of been thinking how I could have improved it.

For instance I have plenty of clearance between the bottom of the MC heat shield and the top of the Tubes enough I could have easily made the top half of the primarys 1.5" shorter (would have required the lower bend on #1 and #4 to be a few more degrees) and this would have raised the bottom of the header #3 tube up to the same height as the Transmission Skid plate. And I could have then used that extra 1.5" on the end of the primarys to add a little more curve to the tube getting the length balance closer.

But it is what it is and I seriously doubt I will ever make another or try to modify this one.

WOW taking a break from the exhaust while I wait for tubing to show up. I decided to work on the Throttle linkage. Since the Weber DGV is mounted with the linkage 90 degrees to the line of the stock linkage I have to add a bell crank to change direction NO PROBLEM after 40 years of building control line model air planes I am pretty good at this kind of linkage.

Problem is the HUGE choke pull off assemble on the right side of the carb as mounted. Is in the Way.I just want a simple manual choke I really don't need a vacuum system to pull the choke off at some point the carb decides. I can do that.

SO now I am trying to find a way to by the proper linkage That which would come on a Weber DGV-5A and all I seam to be able to find are conversion kits that change a water or electric choke to manual operation BUT these all keep the silly Choke pull off.

I got a couple emails out to Redline and Pierce hoping I don't end up having to buy individual pieces from the parts list cause that looks like I could get to over $75 for a couple of pieces of bent metal and a rod or two.

I guess I could always make my own PITA.

Busy morning slinging goober welds all over the place. The end result is I have a BUNCH of grinding to do but Once I get something to eat and weld the 2 into 1 collector at the end of the Secondary's they will be pretty much finished (OK OK I still have a bunch of grinding but I am not going smooth on the Secondary welds they are just to hidden to care that much!)

The position of the Secondary's came out very well I have about 5/16" clearance from the sloped section of the transmission cross member. The 2-1 collector will sit an inch or so from the cross member and provide a place to put a hanger. I ended up with about a 16.5" secondary which is about half way between the recommended 15-18" And the two tubes are within 5/16" of each other. I had three blow throughs welding up the Secondary's one of them I had to cut a little patch for. So I am sure the inside isn't perfectly smooth LOL.

I'm going to be a bend short of being able to complete my Tail pipe since I have to now angle the tail pipe away from the Left frame rail (where the secondary's are to get the pipe away from the spring hanger the E Brake cable and in a position to go up over the axle. I think I have enough Bend to get to the Muffler. I can always add the little exit pipe as its going to be clamped to the muffler as the muffler is clamped to the Tail pipe. I figure clamping it makes sense cause if this little soup can sized muffler (body is 6" D x 14" long) I can easier swap to the next size up a Oval shaped Turbo the same length and in out position.

I bought 10 ft of 1.5" straight tubing USED NONE OF IT I bought 5' of 1.75" straight tubing I USED NONE OF IT At least I will use a couple ft of 2.25" straight I haven't bought yet.

I can see the end of this tubular nightmare and I am rushing towards the light.

OH and I figured out the Throttle mech. No way to do a typical push rod / bellcrank type setup just not enough room. SO I am going to swing the throttle arm on the carb the other direction (pointing down not up) and I will use a Motor Cycle type brake cable traveling in one of the 90 degree steel tubes they use on motorcycles. SO much simpler and cheaper then 4) rod ends and hours building a Bellcrank and mount. I can easily make a simple mount to hold the carb end of the cable. I would not do this if the Weber wasn't internally sprung to return to closed if something happens to the linkage.

OK Exhaust system now goes from the Block to the exit under the rear cross member behind the Right rear Tire.

I will do the welding on the tail pipe section tomorrow. Then once thats done I can come up with some hangers

A shot of the Secondary's Not as pretty as the Primary's since they are hidden and my lunatic OCD gave up when my back did. Not to mention my supply of abrasives.

And the Tail pipe in all its taped together glory. Coming off the Flange on the back of the Secondary's and heading past the Brake stuff. Also angling in towards the center of the chassis.

Up over the axle. I would have liked it to be a good 1/2" higher as the bottom of the pipe is the same level and the contact surface on the rear axle bumpers. I might try to raise it a little once its together with the hangers.

And a rear view showing my huge Muffler (a flow through Turbo style) And the exit pipe.

The elbow coming out the right side of the muffler is the one I found in my scrap box.