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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2019 at 9:45pm
Once Chug is on the road then I start the next stage in the plan. Thats to build the insulated aluminum hard top. Once the Hard top is completed then I will build my off road trailer which I been working on the design for almost as long as CHUG.

Once the Off road trailer is done then I plan on going places.

Chug should be on the road before winter comes this year. While some of the details might not be done. It will be close.

I should be working on the Hard top this coming winter with the top completed by next spring. Then Over next summer I will get CHUG all finished out do a bunch of local car shows and a few short trips to work out any bugs. Over the summer I will get the chassis of the trailer completed. So the winter of 2019/20 I can finish it out.  Then over the following summer (of 2020) I will take a few short trips to wring out the trailer and the combo. SO that that coming winter I can start my long distance trips adventuring.

OH and the wife says I can finish the DAMN HOUSE I been working on for 31 years LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2019 at 12:55am
WOW its amazing. I was flying along working on the cable control for the Warm Air box which will also control the choke. And all of a sudden I go to use one of the half dozen tiny 8-32 x 1/4" or smaller set screws I had sitting on my Nuts and bolts that go into Chug shelf and you think I could find them? Heck no. I'm made a double with a flashlight complete stiring of everything on the shelf. Its all in soup cans with labels or small plastic bags with labels or original packaging boxes with labels.

NO TINY SET SCREWS

So then I look through the most likely places in my HUGE fastener shelf and multidrawer cabinets and even start looking through the dozens of little plastic tackle box things I have screws and such from my model airplane stuff. And NOPE no tiny set screws.

Guess its time to go to dinner with the wife and swing by ACE so I can give them more of my money and buy some more tiny set screws.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2019 at 12:58am
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

It also has a side effect of acting as a heat shield in warm weather. Though once I have the Header Ceramic coated this shouldn't be a problem.



I didn't want you to have a misconception about the Ceramic coating....the pipes are still going to get plenty HOT.




Nah, Chad I wasn't planning on putting my hand on it LOL. But I appreciate you making sure.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Syreal_CJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2019 at 4:00pm
Very cool thanks for the update.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2019 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Nah, Chad I wasn't planning on putting my hand on it LOL.


Well I would hope not.....but was actually referencing your 'heat shield' comment.


'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 3:54am
SO after now rebuilding the Warm Air Duct Valve control cable. The Choke Cable and both the Hand and Main throttle cables. I have all 4 of them all lined up and working very nicely. I ended up having to make a lot of little parts (a couple of the a couple of times!) I am now currently working on the Hand Throttle Cable going to the Hand Throttle on the Gear Shift Knob Assembly.

And wouldn't you know it I have to go buy a METRIC tap turns out the 98 Honda what ever model it was Throttle Cables I bought are the exact length I need to go from the Carb to the little throttle T Handle plunger on the gear shift. SO I am going to incorporate the cable adjustment thingy into my design. I figure adjustability is a good thing.

I'll have just one more engine compartment cable to figure out and that will have to come once the grill is in position and I can reassemble the whole fancy Fresh air intake. The last cable will control the Fresh Air Intake Damper. It going to be interesting I have to figure out a way to get 2-2.5" of Knob movement to change to 5-5.25" of cable movement. A fancy little Bellcrank somewhere under the Air Box or Air Duct should do it.

Then just the Two cables that will control the Water Valve and Defroster Controls for the heater.

I can't believe they haven't called me for work yet. We are having some nice weather all this fun is going to come to an end pretty dang soon I fear. Then its one day a week and an hour or two in the evenings until November again.


OK some Photos

New throttle cable set up


Top view of same


And back of engine view of same


And now to the Warm Air Intake Control Valve Cable the cable comes in to the little arm holding it up and out of the throttle stuff then wraps around the Micarta Spacer that sits under the Air Box/Air Cleaner assembly. And then come to a fixture to hold the end of the cable. I had a nice flat surface on the Micarta Spacer that worked perfect to mount the two little bracket thingys to. This got the cable to make the 90° turn required to operate the lever on the Warm Air Intake.


And a side view of the same. The little brass thing that looks like a short tube with the cable going through it is actually the stop that only allows the Warm Air Butterfly Valve to open to the vertical position (max air flow). The lower cable shown is the Choke Cable which would normally terminate in a clamp but I am using Bicycle/Motor cycle cables so I removed the clamping screw and just fed the cable through the cable. The Choke being returned to open by a spring on the Weber DGV-5A Carb instead of pushed open like on a Carter.


It should be noted being able to use pull cables to control the throttle and these other mechanisms is only OK because the Weber has the internal springs. I added a second spring to the throttle both for pedal feel and safety. I also made all the set screw holes in the little Cable ends and Clevis's I made pass all the way through the part. So should a set screw strip out I already have a new threaded hole to use (I'm thinking about repairs in the field) I figure a Sucrets tin with a couple of set screws a couple of lengths of cable a couple Allen wrenches and  a misc part or two and I should have a complete throttle field repair kit.

A friend of mine said "I would never trust a bicycle brake cable to be my throttle!" I explained to him "all the cable does is move a little butterfly valve and a little linkage its not like it has to stop a 40 mph 25lb bicycle with a 185lb Adrenalin junkie on it flying down a 15% grade headed for a 500 foot drop off into a Rim Rock Canyon or anything". He got this funny look on his face like he hated me a little LOL.

While this all took a couple of almost complete rebuilds and a lot of lathe time I'm pretty happy with the way its coming out. I think I came up with a clean smooth operating very easy to fix solution to my 90° carb to linkage problem.

I should have the Hand Throttle finished up tomorrow. The Main throttle to the pedal will obviously have to come once the tub is in place and I can mount the pedal etc. That part should be a little simpler to figure out as I am using the original geometry just upgrading it.






Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasendeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 4:15am
Nice clean looking work!! I think you may get an award for the most moving parts on a 2a.
Jay
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 4:38am
I was thinking about some of the stuff I am doing this afternoon and one of the weird things about Chug is I will have threaded well over 200 holes with 10-32t threads by the time it's done. There are 140 10-32t screws in the wood slats that will be on the Floor when finished.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 4:46am
Hey Mark I have a bunch of rips of the stuff I re-decked my equipment trailer with  If you want it for your slats. I don’t recall what it’s called. It’s a tropical hard wood. Don’t rot. Tight grained and tough. 

Edited for grammar 


Edited by Mike F - 18 Mar. 2019 at 4:48am
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 8:01am
I been curing a huge piece of prime White Oak for almost two years in my living room near the pellet stove. I'll cut it slightly over size to allow it to shrink more before running it through the planer to final dimensions, .375" x 1.375" I'll use boiled Linseed oil to finish.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Craig M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 1:34pm
Linkage looks great Mark. I did notice the foot feet cable lays along the head, a idea for you to consider on motorcycles where the clutch or throttle cable lay along a part of the motor that's hot it would have a spring type of wire around it to protect the cable housing from the heat and also chaffing from vibration. 
Snojet slice & dice on the ice
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 3:55pm
The photos are deceptive the cable is actually 1/2" away from the head which since its water cooled will not get above 200° but I will sure keep your tip in mind should it turn into a problem.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 8:04pm
Wink  How many of y’all know what a “Sucrets tin” is?  BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 8:16pm
LOL just for you Bruce  https://www.sucrets.com/our-heritage

read the history.

I'll add one more thing they don't mention. Back in my Blackpowder Mountain man recreation days we would take a Sucrets can and toss it in the fire coals to burn off all the paint then take a rag like a shop rag and burnish the metal. Once that was done we would use it to contain our fire starting kit made up of a Striker forged from a bastard file, a Couple Large musket flints, a small baggie of Charred Denim and some macrame jute. You would fold a small piece of the cotton over the flint next to the edge then strike a spark in a downward motion a spark would land on the cotton and you could lightly blow on it to get a bigger glow going then put it into a hummy bird nest sized ball of the unraveled Jute and BLOW. Be ready as it will flare up and you need to get it out of your hand and under your pre set up kindling while the jute is burning. If things went right I could start a camp fire in about the same amount of time it took to do it with a lighter. My wife once started a fire with flint and steel and got a 1 quart pot of water to boil in less then 7 min in a competition.

There more then you ever wanted to know about the weird hobbys Mark W. was once involved in LOL
 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 8:37pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

Wink  How many of y’all know what a “Sucrets tin” is?  BW
Yep. Probably kepit in yur possibles bag huh. 

Some of us know somethings others know other things. 


Edited by Mike F - 18 Mar. 2019 at 8:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 9:21pm
'Altoids'

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2019 at 12:58am
OK so once you string up your Willys with a bunch of Bicycle and Motorcycle cables you need the other end. So for the last three days I been working on the Push Pull controls.

I made the Hand throttle I had built into my fancy Gear Shift Knob Assembly work. And then I tuned it so it worked real nice. BUT it would twist. The little Tee handle would twist and wouldn't stay in one position. And when the foot throttle was moved it would twist and all that would have driven me crazy so I decided to make a better mouse trap.

Since I had the Hand Throttle, Choke, Fresh Air Intake Damper, Warm Air intake Valve, Defroster control, and Water Valve Controls to make I figured I would do them all as a batch. Save some time.

I then ordered a BUNCH of brass off eBay and then of course the next day went to a local Hardware store that had the 5/8" OD .014 wall Brass tubing and .375" Solid Brass Rod I needed for the project in stock. SO I now have a bunch of Brass round stock in my HUGE pile of raw materials for what every if ever I need it LOL.

SO I remade the Hand Throttle so the little Plunger has a groove in it that a 10-32 set screw rides in this keeps the Tee handle from Twisting. I could if I wanted change this to a knob with something like a Nylon bolt and make a lock for the throttle but I doubt I will be wanting a Suicide Cruise control and I ain't gonna be plowing or any other farming that I need a steady speed for.

I also made a decision with regards the Fresh Air Intake Damper. This will require just over 5" of travel to operate. I had been thinking about putting a Bellcrank in the cable to reduce the distance the Push Pull control would have to actually move. BUT that made things more complicated. And after taking note that the Hole in the Dash for the Bright indicator and one of the holes either the original Choke or Throttle Cable would have passed through lined up very nicely with where I needed the cable to go and since the cable is most likely going to need to be a solid wire core so I have some PUSH across that 5" distance. Brake cable would have never done that.

I decided to just make the PUSH PULL control move 5.5" And being its close to the steering column and high on the dash I don't for see anything in its way doing just that.

I put extra set screw holes in the plungers in case one of them ever strips out I already have a repair hole drilled and ready to go. Same with the little screw that holds the cable stop in the end of the Brass tubing. Easy to do now a nightmare to do in the middle of the night at 13,000' in the Rockies.

So on to the pictures..


Parts, 5/8" OD .014" wall K&S Brass tubing. Then theres a core of Micrata and the threaded parts are Lamps parts.


I got a couple partially disassembled so you can see whats inside.


And another of the ends



And a close up of the anti twist groove in the throttle.


And the finished Push Pulls


The knobs are the same ones I am using for all my Electrical Switches so everything matches.

Now I have to tear apart the Gear Shift Assembly so I can attach the new throttle. I'll show that off once finished.






Edited by Mark W. - 22 Mar. 2019 at 1:01am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Syreal_CJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2019 at 7:53pm
Mark, as a new forum member I wanted to thank you again for your project thread. Your "Imagineering" has made me work harder to make my project better. Eric
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