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Transfer Case SHIMS on Rear Output Cap

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Jeff_Davis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 Mar. 2015 at 9:17pm
I am doing the trial fit-up of the rear output cap, in order to set the output shaft bearing run-out, after a D18 rebuild with new bearings, thrust washers and some new gears.  Upon reassembly,  I have returned the original 3 shims that were in the transfer case at teardown (a .003 and 2 x .010 shims).
When I initially tighten the companion flange nut down the brake drum has free rotational movement.  When I fully torque the companion flange nut down to 225 ft. lbs. the brake drum can no longer be turned and the output shaft has ZERO run-out. 
I am assuming that there are either too many, OR not enough shims and the bearings are getting set too tight.   But which is it??  I have thought about this too long now and I cannot figure out if I should Add or Subtract shims to increase the  run-out correctly.
Should I add or subtract shims to help get to the correct run-out??
 
Also, Depending if I am looking at a CJ factory Service Manual or a M38 Service Manual, there appears to be differences on whether there is a gasket between the E-Brake backing plate and the rear output cap.  The CJ manual is w/o a gasket at that position, the M38 has a gasket shown.   My rebuild kit came with a gasket.  The gasket has about a .010 thickness before compression, so I guess that would add to the stackup, if installed. 
 
And finally, what is recommended for sealing the shims?  Leave clean, or sealant between the various shims, or perhaps sealant on just the two outer most shim faces where they make contact with the case and rear output cap???
 
Thanks and regards,
Jeff
 
Jeff
1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar. 2015 at 9:51pm
  You need to add shims for more bearing clearance. The clearance is .004 - .008. You will have to allow for the thickness of the gasket and sealer on the shims if used (I sealed mine). I would recommend to seal the splines on the yoke also. 
   If you had clearance with the bearing retainer installed and tightened for a trial set up and it freezes up when you install the yoke and drum it sounds like something else is binding up and not the bearing.

   Jim
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote birddog7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar. 2015 at 10:30pm
You might want to check out, " thisoldjeep.com" D18 Transfer Case Assembly , by Doug. Also Rick Stivers post on Willystech.com about assembly of the D18. WeeWilly is right, if you have the end play set before you put the EB back plate and Yoke on you should be ok. Think you have other issues my 2 cents.. I seal my shims with Permatex, Copper Spray-A-Gasket.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff_Davis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2015 at 12:38am
Thanks Gentlemen, here's my plan after your advice....
I am going to "over-shim" by adding say, 3 x .010 shims to the existing pack.  I will refit the E brake and see if there is free rotation.  Then, assuming this frees everything up, I will start removing shims to come back to .004-.008 end play.
If after adding the .030" of shims, if it is still binding, I will start trying to hunt down other demons.  I did have some earlier shoe clearance problems, and some interference with new output yoke bolt heads being too high inside the E Brake drum.  I think I have these two problems resolved, but nothing surprise's me anymore.
Any other wisdom appreciated and invited!
Jeff
Jeff
1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina
1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida)
1954 M-100 USMC Trailer
1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2015 at 3:47am
Since you are taking it back apart why don't you tighten the bearing retainer and yoke on without the brake drum and check it out for rotation and clearance. Might save you some time and frustration.

  Jim

  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff_Davis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2015 at 2:17pm
Jim
Thanks, good suggestion.
Jeff
Jeff
1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina
1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida)
1954 M-100 USMC Trailer
1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block
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