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Lock Rite problem or no problem |
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WorkInProgress 
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Joined: 13 Nov. 2013 Location: Kennewick, WA Status: Offline Points: 829 |
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 Topic: Lock Rite problem or no problemPosted: 19 Aug. 2015 at 2:15am |
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i have a 48 stock cj2a with dana 41 rear with lock rite locker installed in it and I am wondering if it is worn out or normal operation or what but currently I am leaning towards "its not safe to drive like this" this locker has always been excessively noisy to me but this is my first non factory locker. so it may be normal I don't know. it likes to make ratcheting noises like it is not locking when I am turning which is probably normal. but recently I have been cruising straight down the road steady on the throttle at a pretty good speed and suddenly my cj2a pulls one way or the other and then I hear the locker slip a tooth and re lock. I don't believe this is normal or necessarily safe as I have to suddenly correct for the pulling and if it were slippery road conditions It might make me wreck. I see there is a kit available for my locker that comes with some pins and 8 springs and was wondering if it means I need this kit? what issue is the pin and spring kit made to solve? is this made for my issue or what symptoms would this kit be made to solve? also if I do a burnout on dirt or gravel, the entire time I am burning out is constant BANG BANG BANG BANG really loud until I stop the burnout. but any other time I am driving and not burning out, everything is quiet and doesn't make unusual noises My tires are all new STA 600 16 ndt and new tubes and balanced and tires are all 28 psi my steering has all been replaced with new tie rods, rebuilt steering box, new king pin bearings and everything else steering has been replaced with new including walcks new usa made "ball down" bellcrank. only steering not replaced was the drag link since I couldn't find a nos one for ball down bellcrank. only things I can think of making my jeeps locker pull the vehicle would be worn out and/ or maybe needing the new pin and spring kit. or maybe the fact I haven't yet had my jeep to the alignment shop yet after the new tie rods. but it drives straight and fine and I do plan on an alignment soon but id say my alignment is already close since I copied length of original tie rods when I installed them I doubt they would be my locker pulling problem
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1948 CJ2A 1959 CJ5 1952 M100 TRAILER |
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bretto
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Joined: 05 June 2010 Location: Orem, Ut Status: Offline Points: 1930 |
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Posted: 19 Aug. 2015 at 2:33am |
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I shouldn't give or ratchet on a straight away at all.. It's only on a turn that it should ratchet. The outside wheel of any given turn travels faster than the inside and it's that allows that side of the locker's gear to travel faster and come off the ramp effect that the center pin is pushed into. Then when you straighten out and the wheels turn at the same speed, then the side gears synch back together of of sorts and are locked together again. If there is a loss of traction on a wheel, then the traction wheel still grips and the no traction wheel goes along for the ride. You may hear the term ground driven wheel, that's what is meant how the locker releases by way of how the outer wheel releases the locker.
I would pull the cover and look at the pins, you may find that they are sheared or the teeth of the gears are excessively rounded off at the edges. Edited by bretto - 19 Aug. 2015 at 2:39am |
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WorkInProgress
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Joined: 13 Nov. 2013 Location: Kennewick, WA Status: Offline Points: 829 |
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Posted: 19 Aug. 2015 at 3:20am |
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to check the pins do I have to pull both axles and remove the carrier and disassemble the locker? or can they be inspected leaving everything assembled and just removing the cover and looking? I'm not too familiar with lockers. looking at a diagram online it kinda looks like the locker needs removed and taken apart to get to the pins and springs but I'm not positive
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My toys
1948 CJ2A 1959 CJ5 1952 M100 TRAILER |
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rocnroll
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Posted: 19 Aug. 2015 at 3:22am |
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"Burnout" with a stock '48 !!........that's pretty cool in itself!!
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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WorkInProgress
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Joined: 13 Nov. 2013 Location: Kennewick, WA Status: Offline Points: 829 |
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Posted: 19 Aug. 2015 at 3:24am |
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I just went outside and eyeballed the alignment of the front wheels and it looks like the Driver side was straight ahead and the passenger was toed out quite a bit. would this have caused my locker problems or would this just be an unrelated thing that needed fixed? so I did my best with a tape measure to align the front and it now looks better from eyeballing it. if I am doing it right I think I have it toed in 1/8 now but eventually when I get to it I will have it machine aligned but for now its probably really close I'm about to test drive after a short break here shortly its really hot recently and I'm sweating. here in Kennewick wa its currently 95 degrees at 7:30 at night |
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My toys
1948 CJ2A 1959 CJ5 1952 M100 TRAILER |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 19 Aug. 2015 at 5:03am |
had me laughing there . . .  but he say - > "dirt or gravel". . . I have not driven stock a flathead yet, but hope my '51 CJ3A (when finished) can spin in gravel.  WorkinProgress - > "also if I do a burnout on dirt or gravel, the entire time I am burning out is constant BANG BANG BANG BANG really loud until I stop the burnout." (wish I could figure out how to do multiple quotes) I have been running a LockRight in rear of my '46 for probably 20 years now. I have never heard any banging while doing "burnouts". Mine has a V6 and has done LOTS of tire spinning, in many conditions. Not sure what your banging might be. Clicking in turns is very normal, when driveshaft is not loaded* (loaded by acceleration or de-acceleration) Not often, but occasionally, I have experienced the "bang" of locker unloading on straight section of road. It does involve a little steering correction. (this is with fairly tight Saginaw steering). I don't remember what it felt like many years ago, with Ross steering. Hope this helps a little. |
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Does10s
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Joined: 12 Feb. 2013 Location: Tucson, AZ Status: Offline Points: 43 |
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Posted: 19 Aug. 2015 at 7:45pm |
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My Lock Rite will unlock between shift when the driveshaft unloads the diff. Then when the clutch is released it'll want to turn the Willy's a bit and it requires some steering input.
No big issue for me, but it probably looks like I had to much to drink if you're behind me!  Later, Will |
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'48 Willy's CJ-2A
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Carlsjeep
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Joined: 15 Jan. 2011 Location: Taylorsville Ky Status: Offline Points: 2642 |
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Posted: 19 Aug. 2015 at 8:52pm |
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Your problem is to much clearance between the center spool and two outside drive parts of the Lock Rite. What you will have to do is remove the axles and pull the center section out and measure the clearance of the unit. The clearance when the ratchet is engaged on one side and the high spots of the other ratchet are aligned is .150". Since the stock shims that go on each side of the drive gear are only .028" and none thicker are available you have to have some thicker ones made out of 4140 steel. I had to make two .040" shims to get the correct clearance.
If the clearance is to great it will do just as you describe, the center spool will jump back and forth and not lock in. The correct clearance is VERY IMPORTANT and can't be ignored. Continued use of the Lock Right in that condition will destroy it, if it is not already damaged now. Go to the Powertrax site and buy an installation manual and owners manual if you don't have them. When it is working right almost every time you shift gears the Jeep will dart to one side or the other depending on which side the spool locks up on and then it will center it's self but it should NEVER jump back and forth. When your in a turn and accelerate both wheels lock up but if you just coast through the turn it may click during the turn.
Edited by Carlsjeep - 19 Aug. 2015 at 8:56pm |
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Life is only as good as you make it.
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otto
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Posted: 20 Aug. 2015 at 1:59pm |
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The pins and springs are not an additional kit for the locker, they are an important component of the locker. Make sure all the parts are installed properly. Without these parts the locker will perform as you describe.
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47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A 64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle! |
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jeeper50
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Posted: 21 Aug. 2015 at 12:45am |
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Carlsjeep hit the nail on the head. if you hold the clearance measurement to the required .156" clearance the unit works flawlessly. mine have been installed for 12yrs. never any problems noisey and pops unloading sometimes but good to go. Hope all you need is new side gear washers to get it back in tolerances.
I recall the unit is measured between the halves with the dogs (teeth) engaged on both sides http://www.powertrax.com/0002pdfs/1000703MIB.pdf installation instructions here see page 19. shows max dimension of .170", remove rear end cover and measure yours and look at edge of teeth on drivers Edited by jeeper50 - 21 Aug. 2015 at 12:59am |
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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Carlsjeep
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Joined: 15 Jan. 2011 Location: Taylorsville Ky Status: Offline Points: 2642 |
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Posted: 21 Aug. 2015 at 4:58am |
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Opps, my mistake, the .150" is measured between the drivers with the teeth engaged on each side. It's best to measure the distance before you put the springs and shear pins in but that means you have to partially assemble and disassemble it at least once.
You can use two stock shims on each side if you can surface grind them down so you have the right clearance. I decided to make my own instead of using two on each side. It wasn't easy to put the springs in but they have to be there along with the shear pins. I can tell you for a fact that when everything is correct the Lock Right is the best improvement you can make for off road use.
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Life is only as good as you make it.
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WorkInProgress
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Joined: 13 Nov. 2013 Location: Kennewick, WA Status: Offline Points: 829 |
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Posted: 21 Aug. 2015 at 5:16am |
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Since you have been there... can the springs and pins be replaced by just removing the cover of the diff? Or does the locker need removed and disassembled to replace the springs?
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My toys
1948 CJ2A 1959 CJ5 1952 M100 TRAILER |
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Carlsjeep
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Joined: 15 Jan. 2011 Location: Taylorsville Ky Status: Offline Points: 2642 |
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Posted: 21 Aug. 2015 at 4:06pm |
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No, you will have to pull the axles, the large shaft between the drivers and pull all the parts out to put the shear pins in. To be honest it's easier to pull the carrier center section out and do the work on a workbench. Be sure to have the right end clearance on the axles when you put it back together. You may have to re-shim the axle bearing covers and it has to have the same thickness of shims on each side to set the end play of the axles. Be sure to use any shims on the carrier bearing outer cone on the same side they came from. That is what sets the backlash of the pinion and ring gear.
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Life is only as good as you make it.
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smfulle
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Posted: 21 Aug. 2015 at 5:40pm |
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Here's a picture of what Carl and others are talking about. if this space measures outside the required tolerances the thing won't work right.
The installation manual says "the gap between the two sides of the unit should be between .145 and .170 inch, with optimal being .152 inch." (My unit in the picture was barely outside of the tolerances at .173 and I could not get it to stay hooked up while driving in a straight line. I had it in the front and it had a continual pull to one side or the other.)
You can measure this by just taking the cover off, but if you need to do something to fix it, the carrier has to come out an the unit must be disassembled.  Edited by smfulle - 21 Aug. 2015 at 5:44pm |
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smfulle
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Posted: 21 Aug. 2015 at 5:48pm |
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Summit has the installation instruction sheet posted in their listing on the locker.
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jeeper50
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Posted: 24 Aug. 2015 at 12:41am |
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thanks for the pic smfulle that helps to clarify where the dimension is measured
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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rocnroll wrote: