11" Brake Upgrade - Tips and Lessons Learned? |
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 646 |
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Care to share any part numbers for these items that have worked for you ?
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1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s
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jeeper50
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Spanish Fort AL Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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I used the 10" brake shoe retainer plate from various suppliers. it is not brake diameter specific omixada MFR#: 16751.01
I have used Ford F100 wheel cylinder link pins from the 11x2 brakes. Carlson pin # H1414-2
Edited by jeeper50 - 14 Mar. 2018 at 9:23pm |
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 646 |
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Thanks.
Those were the only numbers I had found. Didn't know if they would work for 11" or not.
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1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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This is the kind of information that is great to capture in this tips & tricks thread. I'm sure it will help someone in the future. Keep it coming.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Santa in the big Brown truck came today with my 11" brake kit. It looks great. Maybe a dumb question, but I want to get this correct. Does the shoe with the shorter lining go toward the front? In the photo, the brakes on the left have an "L" on the silver adjuster and short lining to the left. Am I correct in assuming that one goes on the left side. The other brake with the gold adjuster has an "R" stamped on the adjuster and the short lining to the right.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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TateC
Member Joined: 23 Feb. 2018 Location: SLC, Utah Status: Offline Points: 510 |
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The shorter or primary shoe goes on the front or in relation to the vehicle faces the front.
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Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687 1943 Willys MB #263100 1944 Ford GPW #234613 1945 Willys CJ2A #10226 |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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Yes I agree small shoe toward front of jeep
Right lever goes on right side of Jeep.
Self adjust cable goes toward the rear of jeep. The wheel cylinder ports are angle toward the rear of jeep. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Thanks guys. That all makes sense.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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jeeper50
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Spanish Fort AL Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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Another item to index L/H and R/H backing plates
The brake adjusting tooling slot always is to the rear of the jeep, because the adjusters can be installed wrong. But the adjusting spoon has to be able to turn the star wheel. I guess you opted to use the long mid 70s brakehose instead of the keep the original look, either way they work good.
Edited by jeeper50 - 02 Apr. 2018 at 10:01pm |
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Yes, using the long brake hoses. It just so happens I'm starting on the upgrade tonight. I've not pulled the drums before, so this is new territory for me.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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I got the drivers side front brakes off, but since I'm a newbie at this, I have a couple questions.
When I removed the hose guard, One of the king pin studs came out with the nut. The stud looks fairly new and both threads are good. What is the best way to install it? Should I put some loctite on it or just seat it to the end of the threads? The threads are a little shorter on one end. Short threads go inside? I pulled the spindle off to see what kind of grease was in the knuckle - it was wheel bearing grease. So I scooped as much out as I could with my fingers, then plan to refill with cornhead grease. Question - it seems like the axle will just pull out, but I didn't try. Will it just pull out without being a problem to put back in? It would be easier to clean out the old grease if so. But I don't want to pull it out if it will create more problems. I expected to see a gasket between the spindle and knuckle, but there wasn't one. I didn't see one in the service manual exploded view either. Is that right? I was glad to see the Dualmatic hub was not cracked or damaged. One thing that didn't surprise me was that Bubba had been at work on the spindle nut. Here are a few pics Thanks guys Steve |
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Spindle nut wrenches have never been super expensive or hard to find, but apparently every Bubba across the country never heard of one.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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jeeper50
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Spanish Fort AL Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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they seemed to be made from unobtaininum back in the seventies 'cause I never had one until the mid 90s.
Use locktight on the king pin stud. cornhead grease it good. ON my first 11" brake install I used the long hoses too and used a string to pull the hose down below the wheel cylinder to help eliminate the air bubbles in the new hose way above the WC when bleeding the brakes. Hope that's one of the wife's cereal bowls...
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Fortunately those sockets are readily available now. A few months ago I ordered two of them, one for the onboard tool kit and one for the garage. So I'm well stocked I'll set the stud with loctite tonight.
I think the biggest challenge on this project will be separating the hub and drum. I bought two 5/8" bi-metal hole saws to cut the swaged ring around the studs and have a 20 ton press, so I think I have every thing needed. But I'm still a little uneasy about it. But maybe I'm just being a worry wart.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3191 |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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jeeper50
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Spanish Fort AL Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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I have never tried this but someone here suggested grinding off the head of the stud and punching it thru. Hub is protected by the old drum.
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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I read that too. I looked at the heads of the studs. They are pretty beefy and kind of hard to get to. So I decided to go the other way. I bought the 5/8" hole saw to cut the swage and will try to press them out. I suppose there are pros and cons to each way.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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67charger
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2011 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 1272 |
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I've done it to two jeeps it's easy. Just grind the heads off but make sure not to hit the hub. A four inch grinder can do it. The reason to grind the heads off and knock them out is because they are swaged. If your don't cut the bevel off or grind them the holes will become oversized. The stud will just spin in the splines.
Edited by 67charger - 03 Apr. 2018 at 11:28pm |
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