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kkiewatt View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 Apr. 2018 at 4:00am
Pleasure to meet you all! I am hoping that you all can help shed some light on my current restoration project. I have a '46 CJ2A That I am in the testing phases of and a few things have come up.

I am trying to set the timing for a good baseline. I a able to see the marks on the flywheel for the timing set however I do not see any marks on the housing to get the engine in the correct spot... is there any other ways to determine where I need to have the position of the engine for timing baseline setting?

Also does anybody know what brand distributor this is? I am thinking of just getting a new one that I will get the electronic ignition set up placed into so I can alleviate at least any ignition issues.

Any input you guys have helps!


'46 CJ2A
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smfulle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr. 2018 at 4:19am
Good article by Sean in the Tech-FAQ section on timing.


Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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athawk11 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr. 2018 at 4:27am
Stan gave you the best instructional out there by far.  

Also, your mark/notch is visible in your photo.  It's at about 9:30.  
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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kkiewatt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kkiewatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr. 2018 at 4:35am
i just noticed that after looking at the photo closer. Thank you for the help guys i will see if that can get me going
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Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr. 2018 at 5:26am
Welcome to the page, kkiewatt!
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr. 2018 at 9:12pm
Yes, welcome to the madness!

Now that you have the instructional, as to the distributor ID, we will need pictures of it. I am assuming that there is no data plate on it. In the last 70+ years we have no idea as to who switched what distributor into your Willys. We could tell you what was probably installed at the factory. There is no guarantee that it left the Willys factory with the correct one though.

Willys used what was on hand & often made changes willy-nilly without any documentation. Nor did they make changes at a certain serial number. It can get very confusing to someone that is used to Ford or Chevy who documented almost every change.

Again welcome aboard, Cpt Logger.
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kkiewatt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kkiewatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2018 at 5:16am
Thank you all for the generous help. I will take a snapshot of it tomorrow. I was able to finally get the timing set well enough that it starts up pretty consistently and easier now. I also noticed with the new condenser and points that the idle came up to a much better level to where it should be. I would say it has been a good day being that the engine hasn't ran in quite a few years, I could tell a couple lifters were sticking for a few minutes but a couple oil changes should hopefully help along with running the dang thing more consistently.

NOW onto the clutch linkage adjustment Confused I put a new cable on while I had the tub off and it appeared to engage everything properly with plenty of pedal travel. I understand these had two different sized cables and I currently have the shorter one on. However it grinds a few pounds when I try to put it in gear as if the clutch isn't fully engaged. Can you guys think of any remedies to this? I can fab something up if needed but if there is any other adjustments I can make I would rather go that route!
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2018 at 5:24am
" However it grinds a few pounds when I try to put it in gear as if the clutch isn't fully engaged. "
(bolding mine)
  That's the trouble, the clutch is fully or partially engaged, and not fully dis-engaged. Wink   BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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kkiewatt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kkiewatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2018 at 5:46am
correct! My apologies it has been one of those days!
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athawk11 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2018 at 1:58pm
Besides replacing the cable, what other clutch work did you perform?  Disc?  Bushing? New fork?
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2018 at 7:29pm
Originally posted by kkiewatt kkiewatt wrote:

correct! My apologies it has been one of those days!

Smile No apology needed, I just like to try to keep the newbies straight so we are all speaking the same language here.   BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dluber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2018 at 1:30am
Welcome to the page.
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kkiewatt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kkiewatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr. 2018 at 10:11pm
Hope you all had a wonderful week. I took a picture of the distributor for everyone to see. It says IGW 4189 which I believe came out of a 48-53 truck or station wagon...

Anyways my 2A is running very well right now and very pleased. As far as my clutch linkage issue, I believe possibly the pilot bushing may have been stuck a little bit because I shifted into second gear first then went back to first gear before I released the clutch and it has been shifting just fine for me since with no issues with the clutch disengaging. PHEW!!

On a side note this project has been quite an experience for me, my grandfather served in WWII and always took a liking to these jeeps. He was in the blue spaders (big red one). He taught mechanics at the local tech college and it shows our families appreciation for old muscle cars and antiques. Which I guess rubbed off on me a little bit being I have been a tech for caterpillar for a few years now. I must say though that not using a computer to diagnose issues and truly understanding how vehicles function is a skill that I will carry with me forever. It also speaks to how reliable and simple built old cars are especially after sitting for years and years and a little TLC and they run like a top again!
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr. 2018 at 4:47am
IGW-4189 is I believe and externally moved vacuum advance distributor as you say from a early wagon, pickup, or possibly a Jeepster. They did not use a Vacuum advance on any of the CJ's with the 134L or F clear up to the end of the engine in 1971. Least not that I have been able to find. I have been trying to figure out what Petronix kit would fit a IAT-4405 (internally adjusted Vacuum advance) for a couple years now. Petronix wants $300+ to do it for me.

Be very carefull of your vacuum advance they cost a small fortune to have reconditioned. NO NEW PART AVAILABLE any where.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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