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Building a Moab/Rubicon Jeep

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Willy M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willy M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug. 2018 at 7:14pm
Just read all this and was thinking that the Commando used the same frame as a CJ6.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 3:30am
Originally posted by jbjeeps jbjeeps wrote:

Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

I am a fan of the stock springs too. My springs are very flexible and make for some cool photos, but I have never seen them give me an edge over Stan or Bob W.

What size tires do you plan to run? That might affect the advise you are receiving.

Tires?  Good question.  I'm thinking I don't want to go any bigger than 32.  I like the skinny tires. I really like the look and performance of the Swampers on Rick G's, but I also like the NDT's you're running. At this point I'm still open to any suggestions you or others might offer.
Jack
Some of this discussion might have moved off to Targhee build,  but I will keep it going with more tire discussion.  LOL
 
The 16" STA Super Traxions currently on Wilson are borrowed from my '51 '3A "Hoover" project.  I like the "stock" look,  but am trying to decide what Wilson's future tire will be.
 
In recent Rubicon run,  I had somewhat decided on NDTs after watching Stan, BamBam and X98,  (and 7.50s from the latter 2),  but also liked Gus's TSL (although larger than I want to go with).   I still want Wilson to look mostly stock to untrained eye.
 
Could I run,  and would I have any clearance issues with 7.50-16 NDTs  or 32" TSL Super Swampers, on stock 16" wheels?    Wilson has stock springs,   but with wider axles.   D30 and D44 from CJ7 and CJ5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 4:16am
Ron, those Swampers are 9.50" wide....I don't think I'd try to put them on a stock wheel..


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 4:46am
Chad,   I was wondering same thing,  but unless a different tire,  I read where "Tin Badge" mounted these tires to stock wheels, and likes them.   More research may be required.
 
I saw the photo of you at Rubicon years ago.  What wheels were you running then?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 5:06am
Those are 7" as are the ones on Frankie now...same wheel, stock wheel centers on 7" shells.

Your Jeep, your decision......but I wouldn't.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2018 at 6:35am
Originally posted by JeepFever JeepFever wrote:

Chad,   I was wondering same thing,  but unless a different tire,  I read where "Tin Badge" mounted these tires to stock wheels, and likes them.   More research may be required.
 
I saw the photo of you at Rubicon years ago.  What wheels were you running then?

I was afraid to put these tires on original wheels until I talked to Tin Badge.  He put the 32” x 9.5” on original wheels with no problems.  I don’t think he wheels his very hard, tho.  Inspired by Scott, I put the 34”x9” on original 4.5” wheels.  I’ve wheeled the Rubicon twice, Colorado, Moab, and Texas with no problems.  I did pop a bead a couple time in Colorado because I was running about 6 psi.  This was right after they were installed and the tire installation slime was still fresh and slippery.  I think that had something to do with the ease of which I popped the beads.  

I haven’t had any problems in almost a year now.  I ran the Rubicon this year with 7 psi.  I thought about welding in some safety bumps, but I’ve tabled that idea for now.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2018 at 1:38am

No delete  available ???


Edited by oldtime - 23 Aug. 2018 at 1:59am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2018 at 1:55am
Ron, 
I found it very interesting to see how your 6.50 Super Traxions performed and held up on the Rubicon.
I'm sure most everyone would agree they are obviously "do-able" but certainly not the ultimate rock crawling tire.

My personal tire choices are "biased" towards the tall skinny tire designs for several reasons. 
My skinny preference even holds true for flatties without the Ross steering systems.

Proper tire fit implies that the tire must be relative to the model of Jeep, to the wheel size and it needs to be be synchronous with all your drive train.

With your particular drive train you are  not restricted by any sensible size of tire.
That includes most any normal diameter and width.

I  find  flat fender Jeeps without lifts and or body clearance modifications should be limited to tires that actually measure no more than 32" tall.
Remember the factory rear wheel house opening is 31" diameter and several other reasons effect that choice.

It should be obvious that the 16" wheels will allow for a taller/skinnier tire combo than a 15" wheel can manage.
Recommended wheel widths provided by tire manufacturers for a given section width are stated for "on-road use" and not for "off-road" crawling applications.

The  suggested rim widths are for tires running typical inflated air pressures..
The suggested rim width  helps to make sure the tire has full contact patch across the full width of tread at higher inflation pressures.
Full tread contact allows the tread to wear evenly.
When you over inflate the tread wears at center. 
When you under inflate the tread wears toward  the side.
Wider rims allow for an increase of inflation pressure without the tire bulging at center of tread.
The wider rims are great for on-road tire uses where you want the pressure as high as possible for maximum roll resistance. (economy)

For off-road use I always prefer my wheels to be on the narrow side of standard suggested width.
The extra sidewall bulge certainly helps to protect the wheel lip from "off-road" damage.
Out flatties are frequently way "over tired" concerning the load ratings.
When we drastically reduce the inflation pressure the skinny rim helps the tread center to have more contact.
Otherwise your just using the outer tread.

Here are 4 really good  tire choices for crawling flatties.

The STA 7.50 x 16" Super Traxion's 9some of these are tubeless0 in 8 ply only

The STA 7.50 x 16" NDT's 6 ply

The 9 x 32" SAM 39 Super Swampers  6 ply

The 235 x 85 x 16" Pirelli Mud Scorpions 6 ply

Each one of those choices has unique good and bad traits.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jijk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2018 at 2:45am
Will a 7.50 x 16" rub at full lock or full stuff?  I had written off a 32" tire thinking they were too big for a stock suspension.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2018 at 3:04am
oldtime: some good info,  and supports my current thinking
             
jijk:  I may be crazy, but just ordered a single 7.50 x 16" NDT to try out. . .  I will report back if it rubs on Wilson.  (stock springs,   but wider axles)
 
edit:
I will be mounting this on a stock 4.5" wheel.   That is too narrow based on some recommendations,  but only by .5".   "tucked in" is good in my opinion.  Smile


Edited by JeepFever - 23 Aug. 2018 at 3:10am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2018 at 3:49am
Originally posted by jijk jijk wrote:

Will a 7.50 x 16" rub at full lock or full stuff?  I had written off a 32" tire thinking they were too big for a stock suspension.

I have 7.00 x 16 on Grampa’s Jeep. Stock suspension. Front tires rub front and back on the springs. I could probably adjust the stops and fix that, but I’m too lazy.
Rear tires rub the wheel well at full stuff. I don’t care. I love the way my tires look and the way they perform. A little paint rubbed off doesn’t bother me but it might bother others.



In these two pics you can see where the tires rub on the spring wraps.





Stan
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug. 2018 at 12:55am
Considering height only the  flatty rear wheel house (except MB or GPW) will accept 34" diameter tires with stock suspension.
In other words the tops of the rear wheel house will clear 34" tires with standard rear suspension at full stuff. 
As Stans pics reveals... tire scrubbing due to  excess tread width becomes the real concern.

Tires should not be ruled out on section width alone.
It is the innermost tread only that first begins to rub.

Here you see an STA 6.50 x 16 Super Traxion >  STA 7.50 Super Traxion > 235 85 R 16 Pirelli Mud Scorpions.


The 6.50 Super Traxions have a section width of 7.2 and a tread width of 6-1/4" > 30" diameter uninflated 
The 7.50 Super Traxions have a section width of 8.7 and a tread width of 7" > 31" diameter uninflated. 
The Pirelli's have a section width of 9.3" and a tread width of 7-1/4" > 31-1/4" uninflated.

It should be known that all Willys CJ's Ive ever com across had wheels that are 3/4" inset. (except the 8 x 15" Renegade I rims)
In other words the wheel disk mount surface is always 3/4" out from the rim centerline.
NDTs in general have a particularly narrow tread width compared to other tread designs.
If a true center lined wheel is used then the maximum tread width can be increased. 



Edited by oldtime - 24 Aug. 2018 at 1:03am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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