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D18 transfer case project |
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ndnchf 
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 Posted: 16 Jan. 2019 at 12:26am |
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I'm not a patient man.... the speedo shims I ordered will not be here for a week or two. So I thought I'd make my own. On the way home from work this afternoon I picked up a machine bushing with a 1-1/8" bore, .081 thick. But it's OD was too big at 1-3/4". So I put it in the lathe and turned down the OD to 1.5".
 I think it fit nicely and looked about the same as the shims on the D20 in the photo I posted yesterday. It's thicker than I said I'd use yesterday, but I think it will be ok.  So I removed more rear bearing cap shims to reduce the output shaft endplay. Got it down to .003". I then assembled the brake and installed the companion flange and tightened it as much as I can by myself. The speedo gear is now locked in place and the driven gear now turns!  I compared the position of the brake drum to the backing plate with the one in my jeep. The jeep's seems to be spaced a little further away. Not sure if it makes much difference. The drum rubs a little on the backing plate, but the plate is a little bent too. I'm not sure how far out the drum should be. I could add more spacers if I need to.   |
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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ndnchf
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Posted: 15 Jan. 2019 at 1:31am |
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Ok good - thanks Ken.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldtime
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Posted: 15 Jan. 2019 at 1:10am |
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Yes the short 4 tooth drive gears are actually a tad under 1" as you indicated above.
And all of the various later and longer drive gears are a tad over 1.165". That's certainly a difference of over 1/8" Anyway I think your idea concerning installing of a .030 shim pack is right on track to compensate for your short companion flange. No need to add a lot of extra shims when you only require just enough to press the companion flange down onto the speedo drive. .020" or so of extra shim stack should easily provide good pressure to the speedo gear. Good luck Steve and let us know how that turns out.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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ndnchf
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Posted: 15 Jan. 2019 at 12:42am |
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I decided to pull the rear bearing cap and see exactly what I have. I also will remove a shim as endplay was still a little more than I want.
The drive gear is. 987" long. With the drive gear all the way forward, the distance from the gear to the end of the splines is 1.512".  The splined portion of the companion flange is 1.503". So it is only .009" short of contacting the gear. I don't want the washer under the nut bottoming out on the splines. So it seems like adding .030" - .050" of shims should give plenty of pressure on the gear and keep the washer from bottoming. Does this make sense? Thanks.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldtime
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Posted: 15 Jan. 2019 at 12:07am |
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So I measured the difference between the early and late length companion flanges.
Approximately 1.65" spline length vs 1.5 "or a bit over 1/8" of difference. I'm not sure how many shims are included in a typical D20 rear output shaft shim pack as I tend to save up and re-use the old shims. Edited by oldtime - 15 Jan. 2019 at 12:09am |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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ndnchf
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 7:28pm |
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Yes I think so. I ordered two sets of shims. But I don't know how thick they are. Hopefully there will be enough to make up the difference. I was looking over some D20 rebuild articles to see how the shims are used. Here is a photo I found that shows shims up against the gear. If I receive enough shims, it should work.  |
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldtime
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 7:13pm |
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Like I said all the pre 1963 CJ gear sets are early design for 4.88 and 5.38 ratio.
What you are installing is a post 1962 speedo gear set. All post 1962 gear sets used a longer drive gear with shorter companion flange. The late companion flange #912105 is nearly 1/8" shorter than the early companion flange #116714. In lieu of the longer companion fklange...... I see no reason why you cannot use the shorter late type companion flange with a thick D20 speedometer shim pack. Make sense ?
Edited by oldtime - 14 Jan. 2019 at 7:15pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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ndnchf
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 6:50pm |
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Well, I didn't try to get it out, but I don't think I need to. The yoke surface where it goes through seal is 1.573" (with repair sleeve). I checked the OD of another speedo drive gear - it was 1.741". Assuming its the same OD as the gear in the case, the gear is .168" larger than the yoke surface that the seal bears on. I don't think the seal would tolerate that without damage. If I do need to remove the gear, I'll just pull the rear bearing cap. You can see the speed drive gear behind the seal in this photo.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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athawk11
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 6:31pm |
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Well that's odd. In the photo above, I pulled the gear on the left out of the case so I could take a photo for you. It was my working case until last year. Seal is still in place.
Edit: I will add that I needed to persuade the gear out. I stuck my pinky in driven gear hole and pushed it toward the end. Then grabbed the edge of the gear with a needle nose. Edited by athawk11 - 14 Jan. 2019 at 6:36pm |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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ndnchf
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 6:08pm |
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Nope- the rear seal won't let it pass. But I should be able to get the shims past the seal and up against the gear. I'm not sure how thick the shims are, so I ordered two sets of them.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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athawk11
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 6:05pm |
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With the drive gear removed, you should be able to slide the driven gear off the shaft without removing the cap.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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ndnchf
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 4:42pm |
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OK, looks like a need to order some. Thanks.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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ndnchf
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 4:41pm |
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No, my measurement was to the very end of the shaft, not just the splined part. But I just measured distance from the gear to the end of the splined part- 1.513" The flange spline is 1.503", so it is a little short. But when I had the nut tight, there was more than .010" slop in the gear - I'm confused. But either way, it still needs a shim or two.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldtime
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 4:37pm |
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Yes that is the part.
Unlike a D18, on the D20 rear bearing cap those shims are required to set the taper bearing play.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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ndnchf
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 4:32pm |
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Yes, it measures 1" OAL. I was looking at D20 parts lists and found this. In the diagram, part #27 looks like shims going up against the speedo gear. Is this what you were referrring to? Below the diagram it shows these as crown part #J0933743. If these are 1-1/8" ID shims, then they should work. Can you confirm this? Thanks.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldtime
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 4:30pm |
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So if that exposed spline shaft length is less than your companion flange length of 1.5". Then the speedo drive gear should certainly bind up when the nut is tightened down. Right ?
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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oldtime
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 4:20pm |
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I'm certain that the speedometer drive gear I sent you ( same on all early military and Pre 1963 CJ's) measures very near to 1" OAL. Not certain yet why your companion flange is not pressing up against it when you tighten the ouput shaft nut. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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ndnchf
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 4:04pm |
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I should say that I can't measure the gear directly, its inside the rear bearing cap and I don't want to pull it apart yet. To get the the 1.000" measurement, I measured another shaft I have from the shoulder the gear goes up against to the end of the shaft. Then on the TC, I measured from the end of the shaft to the rear edge of the gear (with the gear pushed all the way forward). Then subtracted that measurement from the other shaft's measured length to get 1.000" gear length. Assuming the two shafts are the same, it should be within a few thousandths.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldtime wrote: